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UNITED STATES OF AMEKICA. 



• SAMUEL SLATEE, 
The Father of American Cotton Manufacture. 

Samuel Slater was born at Belper, Derbyshire, Eng- 
land, June 9, 1768. He was apprenticed at the age of 
fourteen to Jedidiah Struti, partner of Arkwright, in the 
business of cotton spinning. In 1789 he arrived in the 
United States, and entered into a contract with William 
Almy and Smith Brown, of Providence, R, I., to construct 
new cotton spinning machinery. December 21, 1790, 
he started at Pawtucket, in the same State, a mill with 
three carding machines and seventy-two spindles, which 
was virtually the beginning of the cotton manufacture 
in this country. In 1812 he erected cotton mills of his 
own at Oxford (now Webster), Massachusetts — to which, 
in 1815-16, he added woolen mills. He also established 
and maintained schools for the education of the children 
of his employes. He died at Webster, Mass., April 21, 
1835. 



COTTON GOODS GUIDE 



— FOR 



BUYER AND SELLER. 

t IliliUSTRATED. ) tl 'Sj*. - \k( 




A POCKET MANUAL 



V^^^ 



EMBODYING THE MOST ESSENTI/VL, PRACTICAL AND USE- 
FUL HINTS, SUGGESTIONS, POINTS, FACTS, FIGURES, 
ETC., RELATIVE TO THE MANUFACTURE, PUR- 
CHASE AND SALE OF PLAIN, DYED AND 
PRINTED COTTONS; 

Togsther 

VV'TH A SYNOPSIS OF THE ORIGIN, CHRONOLOGY, PRO- 
DUCTION, KIND, CHARACTER, QUALITY, WEIGHTS, 
MEASURES, COUNTS, ETC., OF THE LEADING COT- 
TON MANUFACTURES OF THE WORLD; 

Also 

A CONCISE HISTORY OF THE RAW MATERIAL, ITS 

CHARACTER, VARIETIES, QUALITIES, CULTIVATION, 

PR,ODUCTION, CONSUMPTION, ETC. 



PREMIUM BOOK 

For Subscribers to the Dry Goods Chroniclj; only, 



CAN BE OBTAINED IN NO O 




DRY GOODS CHRONICA 

143 CHAMBERS STREET AND 335 BROADWAr, 
NEW YORK. 






6 



S'^ 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1889, by the 
Dry Goods Chronicle Publishing Company, in the Office of 
the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 

All Rights and Privileges Reserved. 



^iwYY?^ 



CONTENTS. 



A. PAGE 

Acid Colors in Calico Printing 93 

Acres on which Cotton Crop of the World is Produced 46 

Acreage of Cotton in the ten Cotton Growing States, 1879 to 1889. 144 

Additional Points on Calico Printing 96 

Adulterated or Loaded British Cottons « 88 

African Cotton ,.... 129 

Ageing Process in Calico Printing » 97 

" Allen " Cotton 132 

Alhambra Qiiilts 38 

Alizarins in Calico Printing 101 

American Cotton o 127 

American Print Cloths 92 

American Cotton Plant — Illustration and Description 122 

American Ginghams , 37 

American Cambrics 39 

Analysis of the Widths, Weights, Counts, etc., of Domestic 

Cottons 170,171, 172 

Ancient Spinning Wheel of Hindostan 36 

Aniline Blacks and Blues in Calico Printing 100 

Aniline Colors in Calico Printing 93 

Annual Crops, Exports and Home Consumption of American 

Cotton Since 1841 152 

Anthracene Colors in Calico Printing 100 

Appleton Comj)any in 1835 .... 72 

Austro-Hungarian Exports of Cotton Yarns and Tissues . . , 78 

Austrian Cotton Industries 124 

Azo Colors in Calico Printing 94 

Average Length of American Cotton 132 

Average Weight of American Cotton Bales 146 

Average Selling Price of Ordinary Plain Cotton Cloth in Eng- 
land from 18 J 4 to 1833 80 

B 

Back Starching Printed Cottons 104 

Badly Covered Cotton Cloth* . 33 

Bahia Cotton 12S 

Bed Ticking (Made in the United States in 1809) 75 

Beginning of American Cotton Manufactures 17 

Belgian Co.tton Industries 124 

Bengal Cotton 129 

"Bender " Cotton. 132 

Benzol Colors in Calico Printing 100 

Berbice Cotton , 128 

Beverly Cotton Company , . 17 

Biaz (Cotton Cloth) 74 

Bleached Canton Flannels (Amei-ican) Widths, Weights and Picks 201 
Bleached Sheetings and Shirtings (American) — ^Widths, Weights 

and Picks 185 to 195 

Bleaching Printing Cloth 91 

Block Calico Printing 105 

Blue Mottle (British Cotton Cloth) 120 

Bokharian Biaz {Cotton Cloth) 74 

Bourbon ( 'otton 129 

Bourette (Cotton Cloth) , 37 

Bottom, or Swamp Cotton 132 

Bowing Cotton 31 

"Bull-hide" (British Cotton Cloth) 37 

Burnley ' ' Lumps ' ' (British Cotton Cloth) 119 

Bundling Cotton Yarn 54 

Bundling (Cotton Yarn) Press 54 

Bunting (Cotton)— Widths, Weights and Picks 199 

Burnley Printers (British Cotton Cloth) 119 

Butternut (Cotton Cloth) 23 

Buying Cotton for Future Delivery 42 



CONTENTS. 
Brazilian Cotton Industry 126 

Brilliants (British Cotton Cloth) 74 

British Calicoes and Muslins Printed in 1796 and 1800 115 

British Cottons — Widths, Lengths, Reeds, Picks and Weights. .. 203 

British Exports of Cotton Yarns and Tissues 78 

British Exports Sewing Thread 86 

British Muslins in 1793 151 

British Shirtings 118 

Brocades 32 

Broken Picks in Cotton Cloth 33 

Brown Sheetings and Shirtings (American) — ^Widths, Weights 

and Counts 173 to 184 

Brown Cotton Flannels (American) Widths, Weights and 

Picks 200, 201 

o 

Calico Finishing Machine ■ Ill 

Calico in the Form of Sateen 110 

Calico Printing (Additional Points) 96 

Calico Printing Machine— Illustration and Description 95 

Calender Machine— Illustrated 102 

Calendering Printed Cottons , 104 

Cambrics (American) 39 

Cambrics (British) 120 

Cambrics (American) - Widths, Weights and Picks 199 

Camlets (American)— Widths, Weights and Picks. , 199 

Canadian Cotton Goods Industry .. 126 

Capacity of our Cotton Bagging Mills 124 

Capital, Eax'nings and Dividends of some New England Cotton 

Mills ,. 142 

Caraccas Cotton 128 

Carding, Roving and Drawing Cotton 5;j 

Carthagena Cotton 12H 

Cayenne Cotton 128 

Census Report of United States Cotton Factories in 1810 18 

Chambrays 74 

Character of Bed ticking, Stripes. Checks, Ginghams, Shirtings 

and Counterpanes Made in United States in 1809.. 75 

Characteristics of Some Cotton Textures 130 

Character of Cotton Goods Trade of New York, Boston and 

Philadelphia Forty Years Ago 47 

Checks (American)— Widths, Weights and Picks 199 

Checks (British) 120 

Checks (Made in United;States in 1809) 75 

Cheviots (American) —Widths, Weights and Picks 198 

Clironology of American Cotton Manufactures 165 

Chronology of Raw Cotton, Cotton Yarn, Cotton Goods, etc., of 

the World.... 204 to 208 

Classification of Leading American Cottons 60 

Classification of Cotton in New York . .... 138 

Classification of Cotton Cloth 34 

Cleaning and Opening Cotton 21 

Cleaning Cotton by Hand 72 

Cloth Looking or Examining 33 

Cloth Selvages 107 

Coal Tar Colors in Calico Printing 94 

Colors (Definition of Tones, Scales and Hues) 103 

Colors — Fastness of 164 

Cockley Cotton Cloth ... 33 

Comparative Cost of Compressing and Stowing Cotton in United 

States 141 

Comparative Expenses of Cotton Manufacturing in 1860 and 

1880 in United States -. 60 

Comparative Filaments i!i a Pound of Cotton . 124 

Comparative Strength of Mule Twist. fi2 

Comparative Values of Difterent Kinds of Cotton 143 

Comparative Wages of American and English Cotton Operatives 60 

Common Cotton Fabrics of the World Compared . . 55 

Common Jenny and Stock Card 18 



CONTENTS. 

Consolidation of British Customs in 1787 114 

Consumption of Cotton in Soutliern Mills 142 

Consumption of Cotton Goods Throughout the World 46 

Consumption of Twine in United States 4G 

Cops (Cotton Yarns) 50 

Cost of Cotton in Lowell and Lancashire 136 

Cost of Cotton Spindles in United States 133 

Cost of Heavy Cottons in United States 38 

Cost of Operating Northern and Southern Mills 48 

Cost and Selling Prices of Various Kinds of Cottons in United 

States for a Series of Years 62 to 70 

Cost of Raising Cotton per Pound 133 

Cost of Shipping Cotton at Various United States Ports 134, 135 

Cost of Weaving Print Cloths in England and America 92 

Cost of " Woven Wind " Muslins 152 

Cotton Beating with Sticks and Rattan Frames 26 

Cotton Bunting— Widths, Weights and Picks 199 

Cotton Centre of the United States 140 

Cotton (Classification in New York) 138 

Cotton (Gleaned by Hand) 72 

Cotton Cloth (Classification of) 34 

Cotton Cloth (Cockley) 33 

Cotton Cloth (Looking or Examining) 33 

Cotton (Comparative Expenses of) Manufacturing in United 

States in 1860 and 1880. 60 

Cotton (Cost of Spindles in United States) 133 

Cotton (Cost of Shipping at Varioiis United States Ports... 134, 135 

Cotton (Cost of in Lowell and Lancaster) 136 

Cotton (Cost of Raising per Pound) 133 

Cotton (Consumption of in Southern Mills) . . 142 

Cotton Consumed in Manufacturing in United States in 1805., . . 159 

Cotton Cords (British) 37 

Cotton Consumed in Manufacturing 110 

Cotton Consumed in England in 1787 , 112 

Cotton Crops of Egypt. 86 

Cotton (Diflerent Staples of) 149 

Cotton Export Sacks (United States) 59 

Cotton Fabrics (Common) of the World Compared 55 

Cotton Factories in 1810 18 

Cotton Factories in Providence, R. I. . in 1809 18 

Cotton Factories (American) in 1791, 1805, 1812 and 1817 159 

Cotton Factory — Illustration and Description 87 

Cotton Flannels (American)— Widths, Weights and Picks... 200, 201 

Cotton Gin— Illustration and Description 40, 41 

Cotton Goods (Consumption of Throughout the World) 46 

Cotton Goods Credits in United States in 1818 101 

Cotton Goods, Domestic (Sold in Philadelphia in 1804-1806) 31 

Cotton Goods Industry (Displacement of Labor by Machinery in 

United States 55 

Cotton Goods Trade of United States Forty Tears Ago ... 47 

Cotton Industry of the World in 1888 110 

Cotton Loom— Illustration and Description 23 

Cotton Looms of United States in 1887 147 

Cotton Looms of Other Countries in 1888 147 

Cotton Manufacturing in Providence, R. I. , in 1809 75 

Cotton Mills (Old and New) ... 78 

Cotton Mills. Rhode Island, Massachusetts and Connecticut, in 

1815 . 18 

Cotton Manufacturing in Lowell, Mass., in 1835 72 

Cotton Manufactures of United States in 1880 154, 155 

Cotton Manufactures of Augusta, Ga 34 

Cotton Manufacturing in the North and South Compared 160 

Cotton Manufacturing Districts of England 116, 117 

Cotton Manufactures of Philadelphia in 1782 161 

Cotton (Opening and Cleaning) 21 

Cotton Operatives (Daily Wages of American, 1827) 75 

Cotton (Our Long Staple) ..139 

Cotton Picking in United States 135 

Cotton Plant in Bloom —Illustration and Description 143 



CONTENTS. 

Cotton Power Loom — Illustration and Description 81, 82 

Cotton Power Looms of Great Britain in 1833 113 

Cottons Printed at Lowell, Mass., in 1827 75 

Cotton Production of the World Prior to 1880 139 

Cotton Spindles in United States in 1807 18 

Cotton Spinning in Rhode Island in 1788 , 17 

Cotton Spindles in the United States in 1889 c. . . 158 

Cotton Spindles of Other Countries in 1889 1.58 

Cotton Skips and Cops (Cotton Yarns) 50 

Cotton Stowing and Compressing in United States 41 

Cotton Supply of the World in 1889 -90. Ui 

Cotton Terry Cloth 39 

Cotton Thread of American Origin , ifil 

Cotton Twine and Shoe Thread , ; 48 

Cotton Warp Yarn .... . . 50 

Cotton Yarn Calculations 51 

Cotton Yarns (Duties in Eoi'eign Countries) 76 

Cottonades (Decline in Demand for) 42 

Cottonades — Widths, Weights and Picks 201 

Cottons (Classification of Leading American!. 60 

Cottons (Cost and Selling Prices of Various Kinds in United 

States for a Series of Years) 62 to 70 

Cottons (Diversification of American) , 56 

Counterpanes 34 

Counterpanes (Made in United States in 1809) 75 

Corduroy 37 

Cretonnes 121 

Cuniana Cotton 128 

Curtain Damask 32 

Customs, British (Consolidation of in 1787) 114 

Cylinder Printing on Cotton Cloth 105 

Cypress Cotton 129 

D 

Daily Wages of American Cotton Operatives in 1827 75 

Damask 32 

Decline in the Demand for Cottonades 42 

Definition of Tones, Scales and Hues of Colors 108 

Demarara Cotton 128 

Denims (Amei'ican) — Widths, Weights and Picks 202 

Derries (British) 37 

Design of Fabric 27 

Dhooties (British) 118 

Diapers (British) 37 

Differences in Textile Fibres 88 

Difference Between Mule and Throstle Twist 52 

Difference Between Cylinder and Block Printing on Cotton 

Cloth ,. lOS 

Difference 1 etween Twill Cloth and Plain Cloth . . 29 

Different Staples of Cotton 149 

Dimity (British) , 32 

Discharging Process in Calico Printing 98 

Displacement of Labor in the Cotton Goods Industry of 

United States by Machinery 55 

Diversification of Kind, Style and Quality of American Cottons. 56 

Domestic Cotton Goods Sold in Philadelphia in 1804-6 .... , . 31 

Domestics (British) 121 

Doriah Stripes (British) 121 

Dunging Process in Calico Printing ... 97 

Duties on Cotton Yarns in Foreign Countries 76 

Duties on English Cottons in 1700, 1712. 1714, 1720, 1736, 1774, 

1784, 1785, 1787 to 1S31 .. .. 113,114 

Duties on Foreign Cottons Imported into United States Reduced 

from 55 to 23 per cent, in 1883 , 74 

Duty of Cloth Looker 33 

Drawing Cotton 53 

Drawing Frame 22 

Draw-Loom 160 



CONTENTS. 

Dressing Machine ,. 24 

Drawing and Slubbing 22 

Drills (British) 1'20 

Drill Sacks (American) 59 

Drills (American) —Widths, Weights and Picks 191 

Dyewood Extract Colors in Dyeing and Printing Cotton Cloth. . 94 

E 

Early Kestrictions on Calico Printing in England 113 

Early British Cotton Industries 112 

Early History of Calico Printing 89 

East India Cotton 129 

Effect of Heat on Cotton Fabrics 110 

Egyptian Cotton , 129 

Electricity in Printing Cottons 109 

Embroidery Cloth (British) 120 

Engraved Copper Cylinder and Blocks in Calico Printing 105 

Engraving Copper Rollers for Printing Calico 106 

English Cotton Blankets and Flannels 47 

English Print Cloths .. . 92 

English Cotton Goods of Standard Make in 1800, 1830 and 1S4G. . 74 

English Cotton Yarn Standard 51 

English Ginghams 37 

English and Scotch Cotton Power Looms in 1820 and 1829 . . . 112 
Establishment of Cotton Goods Commission Houses in New 

York . 47 

Estimated Number of Working Spindles in United States, 1880- 

1889.. .. 153 

Estimated Number Cotton Spindles in Europe, 1888-89 153 

Ethics of Cotton Buying in United States 135 

European Exports of Cotton Yarns and Cotton Tissues 78 

Exports of American Cottons in 1887 and 1888 148 

Exports of British Cottons to United States from 1831 to 1846. ... 147 

Exports of Cottons from England from 1701 to 1800 112 

Exportation and Consumption of British Calicoes in 1814, 1S20 

and 1830 115 

Extract Styles in Calico Printing 98 

F 

Fabrics Produced from Different Varieties of Cotton .... 61 

Fancy Jacquard Cloths (British) 121 

Fastness of Colors 164 

Faults in Cotton Cloth 33 

Fibres of Cotton Magnified , 156, 157 

Fibres (Difference in Textile) .... ' 88 

Figured Borders (British Cotton Cloth) 34 

Figured Canvas (British Cotton Cloth) 32 

Figured Checks (British Cotton Cloth) 34 

Figured Gauze (British Cotton Cloth) 32 

Finishing Printed Cottons 103, 104 

First Cotton Goods Made in England 105 

First Mechanical Invention Employed in Spinning Cotton 36 

Fixing Process in Calico Printing 97 

Fixing Colors on Cotton Cloth 96 

Flannels, Cotton (American) — Widths, Weights and Picks... 200, 201 

Floats in Cotton Cloth 33 

Furniture Damask 32 

Fustians (British) 37 

Friction Calender for Calendering Cottons 104 

Freight and Insurance on Cotton . 141 

French Cotton Maniifactures , 123 

French Cotton Yai-n Standard 51 

French Exports of Cotton Yarns and Tissues 78 

French Nainsooks . 39 

From Raw Cotton to Cotton Cloth . . . , 20 

Future Delivery (Buying Cotton for) 42 



CONTENTS. 

Gauze-Leno (British) 74 

General Method of Planting Cotton 146 

Genoa Cotton Cloth (British) , 37 

German Cotton Manufacturing Interests 123 

German Exports of Cotton Yarns and Tissues 78 

Ginning Cotton.. — 20 

Ginghams (American)— Widths, Weights and Picks 198 

Ginghams (British) 120 

Ginghams (Made in United States in 1809) 75 

Giron Cotton 128 

Glossop Printers (British Cotton Cloth) 119 

Grecian Quilts (British) 38 

H 

Hamilton Company in 1835 72 

Hand-Loom — Illustration and Description 49 

Hair-Cord Muslin (British) 120 

Highest and Lowest Prices for Middling Upland Cotton in New- 
York and Liverpool, 1882 to 1890 138 

Hindoo Bowing Cotton — Illustration and Description 31 

Hindoo Churka— Illustration and Description 26 

Hindoo Cotton Cloths (British) 119 

Hindoo Cotton Foot Eoller— Hlustration and Description 19 

Hindoo Cotton Loom — Illustration and Description 45 

Hindoo Cotton Weaver at his Loom— Illustration and Descrip- 
tion 45 

Hindoo or East Indian Cottons 74 

Hindoo Woman Spinning Cotton— Illustration and Description. 36 

Hooking or Plaiting Machine 33 

Holland Cotton Industries. , 124 

Homespun Cotton Cloth 23 

Honey Comb Quilts 38 

How Cotton Eollera for Printing Calico are Engraved 106 

How Cotton Yarns are Measured 161 

Horse Power for Propelling Cotton Machinery 57 

How Indigo Prints are Made 90 

How to Distinguish Cotton from Flax 124 

How Spool Cotton is Made 44 

Hues of Colors in Dyeing and Printing on Cotton Cloth 108 

" Hungarians " (British Cotton Cloth) 37 

I 

Italian Cotton Industries 124 

Import Duties (United States) on Bleached Cottons 58 

Imported Cambric 39 

Import Duties (United States) on Cotton Galloons, Gimps, etc. . . 59 

Import Duties (United States) on Cotton Thread, Yarn, Warps.. 163 

Import Duties (United States) on Unbleached Cottons 58 

Import Duties (United States) on Strictly Cotton Goods 58 

Index to Selling Agents of Domestic Cottons 166, 167, 168, 169 

Influence of Light on Dyed Colors .. — 108 

Interweaving of Warp and Weft Threads in Cotton Cloth 30 

Introduction 13, 14 

Invention of Cotton Thread 43 

Iron Steam Blacks in Calico Printing 100 

J 

Jaconets (British) 120 

Jacquard Cotton Cloth 32 

Jacquard Loom ■ 164 

Javanese Cotton Cloths (British) 119 

Jeanette (British Cotton Cloth) 37 

Jean Stripes (British Cotton Cloth) 37 

Jute Export — Sacks (American) 59 

K 

Kinds and Qualities of Raw Cotton Produced Throughout the 

World 127 



CONTENTS. 

L 

lia Guayra Cotton 128 

Largest Cotton Mill in the World 163 

Lawrence Company in 1835 72 

Liming Print Cloth . , . . 91 

Loaded British Cottons " * " 88 

Location of the Cotton Goods Trade of Great Britain. . .......... 86 

Logwood Extract in Calico Printing. 101 

Loose Reeds in Weaving Cotton Cloth [ 33 

Long Cloths (British) .'* 119 

Loss of Length in Twisting Cotton Yarn 75 

Loss of Weight in Bleaching Cotton '.".'. .' . 1 ! .' .' .' '. 86 

Lowell Company in 1835 \ 72 

M 

Madapollams (British Cottons) 119 

Madapollam Percale (American) 39 

Madder Styles in Calico Printing 99 

Madras Cotton 129 

Manufacture of Cotton Counterpanes and Quilts 38 

Manufacture of Cotton Cords, Fustians, etc 37 

Manufactured Cottons Consumed by the World....' 151 

Maranham Cotton , .'.'. 128 

Marseilles and Toilet Quilts ' 38 

McCarthy Cotton Gin . .' 20 

Merrimack Company in 1835 72 

Metric System of Length 159 

Mexicans (British Cotton Cloths) V V 119 

Mill Brands of British Cottons 46 

Mills in United States Making Brown, Bleached and Colored 

Cottons , 56 

Mineral Colors in Calico Printing [... 93 

Moleskins (British Cotton Cloths) 37 

Mordants in Calico Printing. . , 94 

Movement of Cotton Production in United States Southward 

and Westward 140 

Mule-Jenny , .'. 57 

Mule Yarn 57 

Mulls (British Cottons) .., .'." V.V. . . . , 120 

Muslins (British) in 1793 151 

Nainsooks, Cambrics and Percales for Underwear 39 

Nankeen Cloth 42 

Nankeens— Widths, Weights and Picks 199 

Naphthaline Colors in Cailco Printing , 100 

Naturally and Artificially Dyed Nankeen Cloth 42 

Natural Organic Colors in Calico Printing and Dyeing 94 

Needle Saw Cotton Gin 20 

New Orleans Cotton , 127 

Norwegian and Swedish Cotton Industries 124 

No Sheetings, Shirtings, Ginghams, etc.. Made in United States 

Before 1790 106 

Numbers in Threads. 43 

o 

Old and New Cotton Gins 140 

Old and New Cotton Mills - 78 

Old Time Spinning Wheel — Illustration and Description 35 

One Pound of Cotton Yarn Reaching 1,000 Miles 59 

Only Two Ways of Prodvicing a Heavy Cotton Fabric" 51 

Our Cotton Goods Trade Forty Years Ago 47 

Our Long-Stapled Cotton 139 

Ornamental Weaving of Cotton Cloth 25 

Original Gingham 37 

Original Spinning Frame 22 

Origin of the Manufacture of Thread . i i3 

Osnaburg Sacks (American) ...... 59 

Oxidation Colors in Calico Dyeing and Printing 94 



CONTENTS. 

Padding Styles in Calico Printing 98 

Passing Warp Over and Under the Weft in Weaving Cotton 

Clotli 30 

Percentage of Different Lengths in the Staple of Cotton 136 

Percentage of Sizing in English, French and American Cottons. . 65 

Perched Quiltings (British) . .. 38 

Perforations Between Warp and Weft Threads in Cotton Cloth.. 28 

Perforations in Plain Cotton Cloth — Illustration 28 

Pernambxico Cotton 127 

Philadelphia " Blue Goods " (Colored Cottons). 47 

Philadelphia Cotton Manufactures in 1782 161 

PicMs of Standard American Sheetings and Shirtings 145 

Pick or Thread Counting Machine— Description and Illustra- 
tion . 170,171,172 

Picks per Minute in Weaving Cotton Cloth 55 

Pigments Used in Dyeing and Printing Cotton Cloth 93 

Pira or Cop (Cotton Yarn Spinning) 36 

Plain Cotton Cloth 27 

Plain and Ornamental Weaving of Cotton Cloth 25 

Plain Weaving of Cotton Cloth 25 

Price (Average Selling) of Plain Cotton Cloth in England from 

1814tol833.. 80 

Price of American Cotton Goods in 1789-91 79 

Price of American Bleached Cottons in 1827 75 

Price of British Printed Cotton Cloth Exported to United States 

from 1827 to 1832 80 

Price of British Cottons Exported to United States and Other 

Countries in 1833 79 

Price of Cotton Lands in United States . 133 

Price of Domestic Ginghams in 1818 101 

Prices of Domestic Cottons in 1859, 1860, 1887 and 1889 83, 84, 85 

Price of Hudson (N. Y.) Calicoes in 1836 26 

Price of Middlings Cotton in United States in 1859, 1860, 1887 

and 1889 138 

Price of Prints in United States in 1827 . 75 

Price of Standard Printing Cloths in United States During the 

War 133 

Principal Colors, etc.. Used in Dyeing and Printing Cotton 

Cloth 93, 94 

Print Cloth (Cost of Weaving in England and America) 92 

Printed Colors and Dyed Colors Used on Cottons 97 

Printers (British Cotton Cloths) 119 

Principal Machinery Used in Cotton Spinning 21 

Processes Cotton Cloth in the Gray Undergoes Before it Becomes 

Printed Calico 90 

Product of Almy & Brown, of Providence, R. I., in 1789-90 18 

Product of Printed Cottons in New England in 1824 and 1860. ... 89 

Production and Exportation of British Cotton Goods 150 

Production per Week of Print Cloths at Fall River and Lowell . . 92 

Production of Cotton Goods in England from 1793 to 1833. 162 

Production of Cotton Goods in Philadelphia in 1788 162 

Profits of Cotton Manufacturing in United States 150 

Progress in Cotton Spinning and Weaving 107 

Q 

Qualities of Cotton Used in Making Different Kinds of Cottons . . 61 
Qualities of Raw Cotton Produced Throughout the World 127 

Raw Cotton to Cloth . 20 

Raw Cotton Consumed by the World 145 

lied Woods Used in Dyeing and Printing Cotton Cloth 99 

"Reeler" Cotton 132 

Reedy Cotton Cloth 33 

Regular and Fancy Brands of American Cottons 56 

Relative Cost of Cotton in New England and Old England. . . . 60 
Report of Committee on Manufactures to Congress in 1815. ... 13 



CONTENTS. 

Requirements of a Cotton Factory 73 

Resist Process in Calico Printing 98 

RioCotton .... 128 

Rope — Hints on Selecting 163 

Roving Cotton 53 

Russian Cotton Industry 125 

s 

Salonica Cotton 129 

Sateens (Araericau) 34 

Sateens (Calico in the Korm of ) ■ 110 

Sateens (American) — Widths, Weights and Picks 202 

S.itin Checks (British) 74 

Scales of Colors Used in Dyeing and Printing Cotton Cloth 108 

Singeing Print Cloth 91 

Six-Cord Spool Cotton 43 

Sizing or Dressing Cotton Cloth 54 

Sea Island Cotton of Georgia— Illustration and Description 131 

Seersuckers (British) 37 

Selecting Rope - Hints on .... 163 

Selling Prices of Cotton in England in 1780 , 115 

Selling Prices of American Cottons and Prints in 1827 75 

Scouring or Boiling Print Cloth 91 

Sheetings (British) 120 

Sheetings.JbJrown (American) — Widths, Weights and Counts.l73to 184 
Sheetings, Bleached (American) — Widths, Weights and 

Counts 185tol95 

Shirting Cloth (British)— Widths, Weights and Picks 202 

Shirtings, Brown (American) — Widths, Weights and Count8.173 to 184 
Shirtings, Bleached (American) — Widths, Weights and 

Counts 185 to 195 

Shirtings (British) 178 

Shirtings (Made in United States in 1809) 75 

Skips (Cotton Yarns) 50 

Skirtings (American ) — Widths, Weights and Picks 199 

Slasher and Sizing Machine — Illustration - 76 

Slater, Mrs. Samuel 43 

Slater, Samuel— Portrait and Biographical Sketch 2 

Sliver of Cotton 53 

Slubbing Frame , 22 

Snick in Cotton Yarn 50 

South American Cotton 127 

Spanish Cotton Industries 124 

Spinning Cotton 22 

Spinning Cotton on the Hand-WheeL 35 

Spinning Wheel (Old Time) 35 

Stamping Print Cloth . 91 

Standard Makes of British Cottons 121 

Standard American Grain Sacks and Bags 59 

Statistics of Special Cotton Mills in United States in 1880 . . 153 

Starching Printed Cottons = .' . . 103 

Steam Mineral Colors in Calico Printing. 94 

Steam Styles of Prints • 107 

Stretching Printed Cottons 104 

Stripes and Checks 34 

Suitings— Widths, Weights and Picks 199 

Suffolk Company in 1835 72 

Surat Cotton 129 

Surinam Cotton 128 

Smyrna Cotton t . . 129 

Swiss Cotton Industry 126 

Syrian Cotton Industries.... 125 

T 

Taffechelas (British Cottons) 120 

Tan Jibs (British Cottons) 74, 120 

Tanty or Hindoo Weaver 45 

Tape Checks (British Cottons) 121 

Tariff Revision (United States) on Foreign Cottons in 1883 74 



CONTENTS. 

Tarletan Muslin (British) 120 

TashkeiKl Biaz (Cotton Cloth) 74 

Teclmical Classification of Cotton 132 

T-Cloths (British Cottons) 119 

Teudel or Buyak (Cotton Cloth) 74 

Tenuity of Cotton Fibres 124 

Tenison of Cotton Fibres 54 

Terry Towelling 39 

Thickening or Sizing Materials Used in Dyeing and Printing 

Cotton Cloth 94 

Thicksets (British Cottons) • 37 

Thread (Cotton)— United States Import Duties 163 

Three-Cord Spool Cotton 43 

Three Operations In Dyeing Cotton Cloth 115 

Throstle — Illustration and Description 61 

Throstle and Mule- Jenny 23 

Throstle Yarn 57 

Tickings (American)— Widths, Weights and Picks 196, 197 

Tones of Colors 108 

Topical Process in Calico Printing 98 

Turkey Ked Goods » 101 

Turkey Reds (British) 119 

Turkish Towelling 39 

Tremont Company in 1835 72 

Twilled Cotton Cloth 29 

Twill of Very Common Order 29 

Twine (Consumption of in United States) 46 

Twist (Difference Between Mule and Throstle) 52 

Twist in Thread of English Muslin . . 54 

Twist in Thread of Dacca Muslin 54 

Twist in Thread of French Muslin 54 

Twist of Weft and Warp in Cotton Cloths 29 

Two Kinds of Cotton Goods Printers 92 

TJ 

Umbrella Ginghams i 37 

Upland Cotton...; 127 

V 

Value of American Cotton Crop in 1889 27 

Value of English Cotton Manufactures in 1767 and 1787 112 

Varieties of British Cotton Cloth 118 to 121 

Varieties of American Cotton 130 

Velveteens (British Cottons) 34 

Victoria Lawns 120 

Wages of American and English Cotton Operatives 60 

Warping and Dressing Cotton Yarns 24 

Warping Frame — Illustration 71 

Waste Plains (British Cottons) 120 

Water Frame ■■ Cotton Spinning) 22 

Water Twist (Cotton Yarn) 22 

Warp and Weft Threads (Cotton) —Illustration 27 

Weaving Plain ^nd Twilled Cotton Cloth 27 

West India Cotton 128, 129 

West Indian Cotton Plant— Illustration and Description 137 

Where 25 Per Cent, of our Brown Cottons are Made. . ... 34 

Whitney Cotton Gin. 20 

Widths, Lengths, Reeds, Picks and Weights of British Cottons. 203 

Winding Machine (Cotton Winding)— Illustration 67 

Woven or Warp Pile Cotton Cloth 34 

Wrapping Cotton Yarn 51 

"WovenWind' Muslins (Cost of) 152 

Y 

Yarns (Cotton)— How they are Measured . . 161 

z 

Zephyrs (Cotton) 37, 120 



INTRODUCTION, 



THE DRY GOODS CHKONICLE, appreciating the 
want, on part of the general trade, of more spe- 
cific and practical information relative to the 
cotton goods which they handle, buy and sell, 
has prepared this book for their behoof and benefit. 

In its preparation (which has extended over many 
months) great care, exactitude and research have been 
used in the writing, collecting, collating, compiling and 
arranging of matter specially interesting and useful 
to the buyers and sellers of plain, dyed and printed 
cottons, as well as to the grower, the factor and the 
manufacturer of raw cotton. 

Aside from the varied research indicated, and the 
consultation of manufacturing and other textile authori- 
ties bearing directly upon the subjects treated — skilled 
experts have been employed in the examination, the 
measuring, the weighing, and the computation of 
the weft and warp threads which obtain to the square 
inch respectively in the various domestic makes of brown, 
bleached and colored cottons, ginghams, prints, etc. 

For these purposes mechanical appliances of the 
most accurate description — specially made to order at 
home and abroad — have been employed, viz. : weighing 
scales, counting-glasses, width and length measures, 
automatic and graduated pick or thread enumerating 
machines, such as are now used by the most progressive 
of the modern cotton factories of Europe and America, 



The work has also been freely illustrated with cuts of 
the principal machinery employed in cotton manufac- 
turing — showing the various processes which raw cotton 
undergoes before it becomes yarn, thread or woven cloth. 

The most reliable authorities in each instance have 
been referred to, and facts, figures, and other data of 
trustworthy character have been drawn from nearly every 
available source — embodying much matter which here- 
tofore has not appeared in print— and all arranged in 
such a compact, ready-reference form as to make the 
book an invaluable pocket-companion, not only for 
the cotton goods manufacturer and dealer, but also for 
the grower and the factor of the raw material. 

It is the work of the *'Dry Goods Cheonicle," and its 
counterpart can be found in no publication in any 
language or country under the sun. It is issued as the 
'^Premium Book" for Subscribers to the "Dry Goods 
Chkonicle," and can be obtained only through that 
means, as it is not for sale, nor will it be placed on sale. 

The *' pocket" form in which it appears was selected 
and adopted with especial reference to the convenience 
of the men for whom it is intended to be a guide — 
its size and shape making it readily transportable in the 
coat-pocket, without bulkiness. 

As a great deal of the information contained in it has 
been drawn from almost every accessible source under 
circumstances making it impossible to give due credit 
in all instances — suffice it, that we extend herewith a 
general tender of thanks for all such indebtedness. 

THE DKY GOODS CHRONICLE. 
New York, Jan. 1, 1890. 



17 

Beginning of American Cotton Manufacture. 

In a petition to the Senate and House of Representa- 
tives of Massachusetts, presented June 2, 1790, only- 
three years after the Beverly Cotton Company had com- 
menced operations, the owners stated that their expen- 
diture had already amounted to "nearly £4,000, whilst 
the value of their remaining stock was not equal to 
£2,000, and a further very considerable advance was 
absolutely necessary to obtain that degree of perfection 
in the mannfactures which alone could insure success.' 
This petition and other collateral facts, sufficiently 
prove that cotton spinning in this country, further 
than the hand-card and one-thread wheel, was carried 
through its first struggles by the Beverly Company, 
in Massachusetts. And from this State the manu- 
facture was carried to Ehode Island, though it must be 
acknowledged that both States were indebted to foreign 
immigrants for instruction and assistance in spinning 
and weaving, as well as in pfeparing the cotton. 

Cotton spinning commenced in Ehode Island in 1788, 
in which year Daniel Anthony, Andrew Dexter and 
Lewis Peck, all of Providence, entered into an agree- 
ment to make what was then called " home-spun cloth," 
The idea at first was to make jeans of linen warp 
spun by hand; but hearing that Mr. Ore, of Bridge- 
water, and the Beverly Company, of Massachusetts, 
had imported some models of drafts of machinery 
from England, they sent thither and obtained draw- 
ings of them, according to which they constructed 
machinery of their own. The first they made was a 
carding machine, which was something similar to those 
now in use for carding wool, the cotton being taken off 
the machine in rolls and afterward being roped by 
hand. The next was a spinning frame, something 
similar to the water frame, or rather the common jenny, 
but a very imperfect machine. 

It consisted of eight heads of four spindles each, 

being thirty-two spindles in all, and was wrought by 

means of a crank turned by hand. Such were the 

rude machines used for spinning cotton previous to 

1790, and the wonder is not that the manufacturers 
failed in their undertakings, but rather that they were 
able to persevere. And we can now perceive that from 
these small beginnings the present brightened prospects 
received their foundation. 



18 
COMMON JENNY AND STOCK CARD. 

Previous to 1790 the common jenny and stock card 
had been in operation in various parts of the United 
States, and mixed goods of cotton and linen were 
woven principally by Scotch and Irish weavers. Mr. 
Moses Brown, of Providence, E. I., had several jennies 
employed in 1789, and some weavers at work on linen 
warps. The jennies were used for making weft, and 
operated by hand in the cellars of dwelling houses. 
During 1790 Almy and Brown, of Providence, E. I., 
manufactured 326 pieces, containing 7,823 yards of 
various kinds of goods. There were also several other 
companies and individuals in different parts of the 
Union who manufactured goods from linen warps and 
cotton weft. 

In 1807 it was estimated that the whole number of 
cotton spindles in operation in the United States aggre- 
gated 4,000. In 1809 there were seventeen cotton mills 
in operation within the tawn and vicinity of Provi- 
dence, E. I., working 14,296 spindles. 

Tench Coxe, in his report of the census of 1810, gives 
the number of cotton factories as follows: 

Massachusetts 54 Pennsylvania 64 

Vermont 1 Delaware 3 

Ehode Island 28 Maryland 11 

Connecticut 14 Ohio 2 

New York. 26 Kentucky 15 

New Jersey 4 Tennessee 4 

None in any other State. 

In 1815 the following number of cotton mills and 
spindles in Ehode Island, Massachusetts and Connecti- 
cut were enumerated in a memorial to Congress: 

Cotton Mills. Spindles. 

Ehode Island 99 68,142 

Massachusetts 52 39,468 

Connecticut 14 11,700 

Total 165 119,310 

A report of the Committee on Manufactures to Con- 
gress in 1815 also gives the following particulars of the 
cotton manufacture of the United States at that date: 

Capital... $40,000,000 

Males employed of age of 17 and upwards 10,000 

Boys under 17 24,000 

Women and female children 66,000 

Wages of 100,000, averaging $1.50 per week $15,000,000 

Cotton manufactured, 90,000 bales lbs. 27,000,000 

Number of yards 81,000,000 

Cost, averaging 30 cents per yard $24,ii00,000 



19 




Mm 




3^ 



4 •»>'*:^ -■'-■'i^- 



Hindoo Cotton Foot EoUer. 

The following is the explanation of the above cut : 
A, a smooth stone; B, a stool; C, an iron; DD, wooden 
soles; E, the seed; F, the cotton. 

In ancient times the natives of India literally sep- 
arated the cotton from the seed with their feet, and 
then cleaned it with their hands. This practice still 
obtains in the Southern Mahratta country. The cotton 
is placed on a flat stone. A woman sits on a stool be- 
fore it. Her only implement is an iron roller, but 
wooden soles are fastened to each other feet. This iron 
roller she places on the cotton, and then rolls it back- 
wards and forwards with her feet, until the cotton is 
fairly separated from the seed, and the seed is rolled 
out in front, while the cotton comes out under the 
stone in a continuous web. The woman picks this 
cotton with her hands— picking away all the dirt, pieces 
of leaf, stray seeds, smashed seeds, and other objection- 
able trash. 



20 

PKOM EA¥ COTTON TO CLOTH. 

The lobes in every boll of cotton contain seeds 
resembling unground coffee which, when removed, 
leave only about one-third of the quantity gathered 
from the plant in clean cotton; or, in other words, 
according to the best authorities on the subject, 
two-thirds of the cotton grown and picked consist of 
seed, and one-third of the raw material fit to be used by 
the manufacturers. 

The most primitive machine for removing the seeds 
from the fibre is the Churka, used in the East Indies. 
It consists of two rollers, made of hard wood, fixed in a 
rude frame, through which the cotton is drawn and the 
seeds forced out in the process. The operation is said 
to be tedious and laborious, and the quantity of cotton 
that can thus be cleaned by any one machine is ex- 
ceedingly small. The fibre, however, is not injured, 
except in some slight degree by the curl which* it re- 
ceives in passing through the Churka. 

GINING. 

The invention of the saw gin by Eli Whitney in 1792, 
inaugurated an entirely new system of separating the 
seed from the fibre or wool. This gin and those made 
upon a similar principle consist of a " series of saws re- 
volving between the interstices of an iron bed upon 
which the cotton is placed, the fibre being drawn 
through the silts in the bed, leaving the seeds behind." 
Of late years the saw gin has been variously improved . 
but still it is stated by many manufacturers that the 
fibre is somewhat injured by this mode of ginning, es- 
pecially long-stapled cottons. However, more work 
can be performed by the saw gin than probably any 
other machine used for a similar purpose made. Its 
use is very general throughout the cotton-growing belt 
ol" the South. 

Other inventions for removing the seed from the wool 
have latterly been perfected, such as the "needle saw, 
consisting of steel wire set in block tin, leaving the bot- 
tom of the teeth round and smooth," which, it is said, 
prevents the fibre from being "cut and nepped ;" and a 
machine called the "McCarthy gin," which is ot very 
simple construction. By the means of the latter "the 
cotton is drawn by a leather roller between a metal 
plate called the doctor, fixed tangential to the roller, and 
a blade called the beater, moving up and down in a plane 
immediately behind Mnd parallel to the fixed plate. 
While the cotton is drawn through by the roller the 
seeds are forced out by the action of the movable 
blade." This machine has undergone several improve- 
ments and is considered the most succ ssful competitor 
of the saw gin yet produced. Other new inventions of 
similar design and character might be adverted to, but 
their application and use are rather exceptional than 
otherwise. 



21 
CLEANING AND OPENING. 

Tbe next proce -s which follows In regular order is 
spinning:. The principal machinery in use for this pur- 
pose comprises the opener, scutcher and lap machine, 
carding engine, drawing frame, slubbing frame, inter- 
mediate frame, moving frame, throstle, self-acting 
mule, hand-mule, doubling frame or mule doublers or 
twinets. 

The raw cotton is cleaned and opened out in the first 
two of these machines, and in the lao maehine into flat 
folds ; in the carding machine it is still further cleaned 
and the fibres straightened ; in the drawing Irame the 
fibres are laid parrallel ; the process of twisting is com- 
menced and carried on in the slubbing and intermediate 
frames, and in the throstle and mule it is converted into 
yarn. 

The raw cotton, which is received in bales, has first 
of all to be opened and thoroughly mixed, in order to 
lessen the irregularity which might ai ise from a differ- 
ence of quality. This process is performed by spread- 
ing out the contents of various bales in layers one above 
another; and to insure that a portion of each layer 
shall be in the opening machine, vertical si ices are taken 
from the slack of cotton or mixing, and placed in posi- 
tion to feed the opener. This machine is used to break 
up any hard lumps that there may be, and to remove 
any dirt which the cotton may contain. Different ma- 
chines are employed for the purpose which bear various 
designations, and their acrion carries the cotton, first 
placed on a feeder, forward by a combination of rollers, 
and before delivery by these rollers, it is struck several 
times by revolving blades or teeth which serve to loosen 
the fibres, at the same time disengaging the dirt and 
permittiDg it to fall through grids, which allow the im- 
purities to pass, but retain the fibre. The draught 
caused by a fan carries the cotton forward to cages, 
whence it is delivered to the lap machine. The scuteh- 
ing and lapping maehine is designed to effect a further 
separation of the fibres of the cotton, and to remove 
8uch refuse material as may still remain. The cotton 
is left by the opener in fleecy state, but by means of 
the scutcher, to which the lap machine is attached, is 
formed into a roll or "lap," preparatory to the operation 
of carding. 

CAEDING. 

The carding engine comprises a large or main cylin- 
der, covered with cards, a smaller cylinder, called the 
doffer, and a still smaller one, called the taker-in. The 
last named is the first to operate upon cotton, which it 
receives from a pair of feed rollers, and which, after 
striking out the heavier part of the dirt, it delivers to 
the main cylinder. This main cylinder is furnished 
with small ones, called rollers, also covered with cards, 
revolving in an opposite direction to that of the l^rge 
cylinder, and with different velocities, by means of 
which the cotton is carded and put on the second cyl- 
inder called the doffer. The fleece of cotton is taken 
from ttie doffr^r by a vibrating cam and is then called 
the sliver, which passes through a trumpet-mouthed 
aperturA with the fibers straightened, and is coiled in 
the doffing tins or cans in readiness for the drawing 
frames. 



22 

The process oi elongation or attenuation are carried 
on ttirougli tlie drawing, slubbing, intermediate and 
finishing roving frames. The drawing frame comes 
into operation after carding, and is a machine for 
straightening and laying parallel the fibres of cotton. 
In it the process of doubling is commenced, and the cot- 
ton is drawn out by doubling and drawing out the sli- 
vers repeatedly through successive pair of rollers with 
which the drawing frame is furnished, the low or bot- 
tom rows being fluted and the upper or top i oiler 
covered with flannel or cloth and leather neatly 
cemented together and weighted down to the under 
rollers, so as to be arlven by friction from the lines of 
the under rollers. 

DRAWING AND SLUBBING. 

The next operation which follows drawing is that of 
alubbing, where the sliver has a certain amount of twist 
imparted to it, and is wound on a bobbin. The slub- 
bing frame (quoting tbesame manufacturing authority) 
is a machine which draws out the end, or sliver, from 
the last head of the drawing frame by means of three 
pairs of rollers, and this is twisted as It emerges from 
the front line of rollers by means of vertical spindles 
and flyers, which at the same time wind the ends upon 
bobbins in successive layers. 

The slubbing frame answers three purposes : it draws 
out the cotton, twists it and winds it upon a bobbin, the 
first being done by the rollers, the second by the spin- 
dles, and the third by the flyer.'^ and pressers. The in- 
termediate frame follows the slubbing frame, which it 
resembles in construction, though it has a larger num- 
ber of spindles and generally smaller- sized bobbins. 
Instead of having cans put up at the back it has "creels" 
in which the slubibng bobbins are put, so as to be drawn 
off through the rollers of the frame and doubled two 
into one. In spinning low numbers of yarns this frame 
is sometimes entirely omitted, and the slubbing frame 
bobbins put directly into the "creels" of the roving 
frame. '.Che latter resembles in principle the slubbing 
and intermediate frames, and is the last required before 
the operations of spinning, strictly so-called, com- 
mence. 

It has a greater number of spindles than either of the 
two preceding frames, which are set closer together, 
and its bobbins are also shorter and smaller than the 
intermediate frame. The degree of elongation com- 
pleted by the roving frame is technically described by 
the number of hanks per pound, each hank consisting 
of 840 yards, and the thread of a certain thickness is 
called so many hanks roving. In the spinning of flne 
numbers or counts the "jack frame" is used for a sec- 
ond roving, making a 30 or 40-hank roving from the 
bobbins of the first roving frame. 

SPINNING. 

In the Fpinning operations proper there are two kinds 
of frames, or machines, in general use — throstles and 
mules. The throstle, an extension and modification of 
the original spinning frame, first called "water frame," 
is employed in the spinning of yarn for warps, and the 
yarn eo spun is still known by tne name of "water 
twist." 



23 

This frame consists of a "creel containing: thie bobbins 
for the rovinfe frame in the centre, having on each side 
a set of tbree rows of rollers, througli which the roving 
is passed or drawn out to the required fineness. The 
bottom rollers are iron fluted, and the top ones are 
covered with leather, the speed being- so adjusted that 
the front rollers move faster than those behind them. 
Below the rollers on each side is a row of spindles filled 
with bobbins, and on the top of the spindles flyers are 
screwed, around which the thread passed and is twisted 
by the spindles revolving at a great velocity, while it is 
lapped upon the bobbin by the flyers." 

THEOSTLE AND MULE-JENNY. 

The ring and traveler spinning frame is also more or 
less extensively used in this country, and has, instead of 
a flver on the top of the spindle, a Small steel traveler 
working in a ring, placed in a rail called the ring rail, 
passing over the bobbin, and moves up and down the 
whole length of the bobbin. The iwist is given by the 
revolutions of the spindle, and the winding of the thread 
on the bobbin (fixed to the spindle and carried round 
with it) is effected by the friction of the traveler in its 
revolutions round the ring. 

The mule or mule-jenny differs from the throstle In 
having the spindles placed in a carriage moving back- 
wards and forwards. " The twist is put in as the car- 
riage recedes or is drawn ou^ and the winding of the 
yarn upon the cap is performed by a separate motion 
as the mule or carriage moves up, the principle of 
drawing being the same in both throstle and mule.% 
The yarn spun upon the throstle has the fibre closer 
twisted than that spun upon the mule, and is more ps- 
teemed for certain purposes, especially for making 
thread, than the latter. 

Throstle yarn is stronger and more even than mule 
yarn, and better adapted for warps, but the range of 
throstles is limited, and the counts seldom exceed 40s, 
though thros les are made capable of spinning y^rn up 
to 80s or even 100s. The reason is that the fine thread 
has not strength to stand the 'drag' j equired to wind 
the yarn on the bobbin. The mule, on the other hand, 
will spin both twist and weft as high as No. 100s or 
more, wnile still finer numbers can be spun by band- 
mules. Mule yarn is softer and more wooly in texture 
than throstle yarn, which arises from the vibration of 
the thread as the carrias?e is drawn out from the rol- 
lers." Yarn when spun, besides being woven into cloth, 
is also doubled and used for a variety of purposes. 

THE LOOM. 

The loom is the machine on which weaving is per- 
formed. The simplest form of which is the hand-loom, 
which is not now used in this country in weaving cot- 
ton fabrics unless in some few families in the Southern 
States, where "homespun." "butternut" cloth, etc., are 
still produced in the household. ' But even the produc- 
tion of these by the hand-loom is now very rare. The 
pow;pr-loom has greatly facilitated and cheapened the 
production of cotton fabrics so that it has entirely re- 
placed the former. 



24 

Weaving is always preceded by warping:, the object 
of wliich is so to arrangre all the longitudinal threads 
which are intended to form the chain or warp of the 
web, as to lorm, when spread out, a plane of parallel 
threads. In forming the warp a sufficient number of 
bobbins, filled with yarn, must be taken to furnish the 
number of threads of the required length of the piece 
of fine cloth, would be unhandy to operate with. The 
warp Is usually divided into six or eight parts, and as 
many bobbins are used to form one of tne strands as 
there are threads in such a part. These strands are 
then united on the reel and form the complete web. The 
spools of thread are mouted horizontally upon a square 
frame and revolve upon wire skewers, so that the yarn 
may pass off them as freely as possible. 

WAKPING AND DKESSING. 

There are two distinct forms of warping machines, 
one of which, the reeling machine, is used chiefly in the 
formation of chain for the hand-loom. This reel is of a 
vertical shape, from 5 to 9 feet in diameter, 7 feet high, 
and is moved by hand, ihe strands of thread are 
wound upon this reel in a screw line, and the winding 
is repeated six times, or oftener, or, in fact, until the re- 
quired number of threads for the chain is laid upon 
it. The threads are run singly through the steel 
plate, called a hec&, which forms the lease of 
the warp and serves for the weaver to put his lease 
rods in. 

In weaving formerly done on the power-loom the 
dressing of the warp was a serious obstacle, and re- 
quired a frequent stoppage of the loom and unwinding 
of the beam. 

The difficulty was overcome by the dressing machine, 
which led to the invention of the warping machine. On 
the latter the warp is wound directly upon a beam ; six 
or eight or even a greater number of these are mounted 
upon the dressing machine, and, on being unwound, 
form the warp. These machines are 'very simple and 
ingenious. Such a warp mill, with its numerous 
threads and spools, would require much attention, and 
would work but slowly If the motion of the machine 
was not checked by a very simple contrivance in case 
one of the threads break. 

This object is attained by the drop wires; a hook 
made of iron wire is hung upon each thread, or rather, 
thread passes through it ; this hook has a long stem 
whichmovesin the frame of the machine, and as soon 
as the thread breaks it drops down and arrests the mo- 
tion of an iron rod, which then leads the strap upon the 
loose pulley. 

The dressing machine on which the warp-beams are 
placed and are unwound slowly until their contents are 
united upon a single beam. " During its transit to a 
single beam the yarn passes over brushes, which move 
backwards and forwards, from which it receive a dress- 
ing, and is again dried before it reaches the main warp- 
beam. This drying is done by a current of heated air, 
which is forced upon the warp by a revolving fan, and 
in passing through the moist threads of the warp it 
dries them and makes the warp fit for winding and 
weaving. 



25 
PLAIN AND OENAMENTAIi WEAVING. 

It is almost next to impos?ible to accurately describe 
the power-loom without the aid or diagrams as it is 
such a complicated machine. According to the best 
manufacturing authorities on this subject, power-looms 
are now in operation in this country and Europe at the 
rate of 140 revolutions per minute, and on plain goods 
160 revolutions per minute, and some looms will make 
200 and even 250 revolutions per minute. According 
to this statement, as "common sheetings and shirtings 
require about seventy to eighty picks or threads to the 
inch, the loom would make at least 200 picks per minute 
or about five yards per hour, but coarse goods can of 
course be woven much faster. There are, in fact, looms 
In operation which work six treadles and as many 
shuttles with perfect ease and security, and of course 
weave much faster." 

The weaver of cotton goods, in all cases, makes it his 
first business to adapt those parts of his loom which 
move the warp and which is technically called the 
draught, drawing or readying-in. 

In every kind of weaving, whether direct or cross- 
weaving, the whole difference of the pattern is pro- 
duced either by the order of succession In which the 
warp is introduced into heddles. or by the order of suc- 
cession in which the heddles are moved. When the hed- 
dles have been thus far adjusted, it is the weaver's next 
business to connect the leaves, or heddles, with the 
levers or treadles, by which they are moved in such a 
manner as to form the desired plan. When this opera- 
tion is performed correctly there is no further diflficulty 
in obtaining the pattern wanted in the goods ; the only 
thing necessary is to move the treadles in the order in 
which they have been placed. 

The method of operation in ornamental weaving is 
first, to draw the pattern upon paper, which has pre- 
viously been laid out into small rectangular spaces, each 
line or space representing one thread of the warp as 
wellasolf the filling. The pattern thus drawn repre- 
sents in its enlarged size the figure as it will appear in 
the cloth when reduced to the size of the number of 
threads contained in it. The paper pattern thus forms 
a double scale, by which, to judge of the effect and to 
determine with great precision the readying-in, and all 
the subsequent operations. If great strength and thick- 
ness of the cloth are wanted, two different modes of 
weaving are resorted to, one of which makes double 
cloth, or weaves two webs and joins them together in 
one operation, and the other consists chiefly in laying 
three or more threads upon the face of the cloth, with 
such intervals between as the pattern requires, instead 
of crossing each thread as is done in ordinary plain 
weaving. 

Plain weaving is done by the power-loom more 
perfectly than it can be done on the hand-loom, 
and the former can be so adjusted as to weave the heav- 
iest goods to advantage ; any number of shuttles- at 
leasn as many as six -may be used with ease, and dam- 
ask figured goods, such as table cloths, etc., may be pro- 
duced in greac perfection, with the assistance of the 
Jacquard machine. 



26 




The Hindoo Glmrka. 
This simple implement is only one step in advance of 
the cotton foot roller. It consists of two rollers set in 
a wooden frame, with a small interval between them. 
These are turned with an ordinary handle, the motion 
of one being communicated to the other by a sort of 
endless screw. The cotton is passed between these 
rollers, and the staple is thus separated from the seed; 
but the cotton is turned out in a matted state, with the 
fibres all lying confused in different directions, so as to 
give a great deal of trouble to European carders. More- 
over, the cotton is mixed up with all the dirty bits of 
leaf and seed already indicated. The natives, however, 
can completely clean it by the laborious process of hard 
picking, and they appear to resort to this process for 
home consumption ; but for exportation they seem to 
content themselves with beating it with sticks on rattan 
frames. 

■ i^«» 



Price of Hudson Calicoes in 1836. 
In 1836 the calicoes made by the Hudson Print Works 
at Stockport, N. Y. were sold for 18c. per j^ard. These 
works were established in 1826; employed 42 block 
printers and 5 printing machines — 2 printing four colors 
at once, and 3 three colors each. 



27 

Weaving Plain and Twilled Cotton Oloth. 
We are indebted to Thomas R. Ashenhiirst, Head 
Master of the Textile Department of the Technical Col- 
lege of Bradford, England, for the following general plan 
of plain and twilled cotton cloths: 

PLAIN COTTON CLOTH. 

The illustration given immediately below (Fig. 1) 
represents the general plan of what is known as plain 
cloth. It will be seen by examining it that there are 
two sets of threads, which cross each other at right 
angles, and which interweave alternately. 




WAEP AND WEFT THKEADS. 

The threads marked a, or the longitudinal threads, or 
those running in the direction of the length of the 
piece, are termed the warp threads, and tbe transverse 
threads, &, are termed the weft threads. In all woven 
fabrics we have these two sets of threads to deal with, 
and the relation which one bears to the other, as well as 
the order of interweaving for the purpose of forming 
patterns, constitute the design of the fabric. 

In the plain cloth plan in figure 1 it will be seen that 
although there is produced a very firm texture by the 
manner in which the two sets of threads interweave, yet 
there cannot possibly be produced a very close texture. 
Certainly the fabric will be strong, each thread sup- 
porting the other to the utmost, yet it cannot be made 
sufficiently compact to produce a heavy fabric. By tbe 
very manner in which the threads intersect each other, 
thej are prevented from lying perfectly close together; 
consequently, the fabric must be, in a greater or less 
degree, perforated. 



28 
PEKFOKATIONS IN Pr.AIN COTTON CLOTH. 

The perforations in a plain cotton cloth will vary 
greatly under certain conditions. For instance, the 
thicker the threads from which the fabric is made, the 
larger will be the perforations, and the thinner the 
threads the smaller the perforations. Of course, in 
such cases the perforations will bear exactly the same 
ratio to the diameter of the thread if the relation of the 
warp to weft be the same, but cloth made from fine 
3'arns will possess the useful properties in a much 
greater degree in proportion to its weight than that 
made from thick threads. 




aaaaaaaaaa 
Fig. 2. 

PERFORATIONS BETWEEN WARP AND WEFT THREADS. 



If we desire to produce a cotton fabric of close tex- 
ture — one which will have the perforations reduced to 
the smallest possible dimensions — we must iisea yarn in 
which the fibres of which it is composed are laid as 
loosely together as possible. We can then, in the me- 
chanical operation of weaving, bring these threads 
closely together, and the looseness of the fibres will per- 
mit of their spreading out and so of reducing the inter- 
stices to the lowest point. 

On the other hand, if the threads are twisted very 
hard — that is, if the threads are made solid and com- 
pact — they will resist compression in the operation of 
weaving, and, the fibre being held firmly together in 
the thread, there is nothing left to spread out and cover 
the interstices; consequently we shall have an open 
fabric, but the fibres being firml}^ interlocked in the 
thread, we shall have a fabric which will bear more 
strain, and will offer also more resistance to friction 
than in the other case. 



29 
TWIST OF WEFT AND WARP, 

Another matter which materially affects the closeness 
of texture in a plain cotton cloth is the direction of the 
twist of the weft in relation to that of the warp. On 
reference to figure 1 it will be seen that the two sets of 
thread, when placed together in the fabric, have the 
twist running in the same direction; that being so, the 
fibres — or, if one may so term them, the strands — ^of the 
two sets of threads will become embedded into each 
other, and so make a close and compact fabric. If, on 
the other hand, the twist of the weft be contrary to that 
of the warp when the two are placed together, as shown 
in the figxire 2, the threads cannot become so intimately 
connected, and, consequently, the fabric cannot be so 
close and free from perforation. 



Twilled Cotton Olotli. 

The class of fabrics which comes nearest to plain 
cloth is that known as twills or twilled fabrics ; and in 
their production we may have two objects in view — first, 
increase of bulk or bulkiness of fabric ; and second, 
ornamentation. 




Fiff.3. 

TWILL OF VERY COMMON OEDEE. 

The first and chief difference between twill cloth and 
plain cloth is that on the latter the warp and weft inter- 
weave alternately, whereas in twilled fabrics they inter- 
weave at such intervals as may be required for the 
formation of the pattern. Again, what is termed the 
complete pattern in plain cloth is represented by two 
ends of warp and two picks of weft, while in twilled 
cloth a greater number of ends and picks are required 
to complete the pattern; or, in other words, in all plain 
cloths every alternate end is a repetition; the same 
holds of the picks, but in twilled cloths the repetition 
will occur at longer intervals. 

Figure 3 shows the plan of a twill of a very common 
order, and one regularly in use in fabrics made from 
cotton as well as from all other kinds of materials. 



30 
PASSING OP WAKP OVEB AND UNDER THE WEFT. 

In figure 3 it will be seen that each warp thread 
passes alternately over and tinder two weft threads or 
picks, and in like manner each weft thread passes al- 
ternately under and over two warp threads. But each 
end does not pass under and over the same two picks, 
nor does each pick pass under or over the same two 
ends, nor are they alternate in their action, as are the 
ends and picks of plain cloth; but they change in regu- 
lar consecutive order; that is, if the first end passes 
over numbers one and two picks, the second end passes 
over numbers two and three picks, and so on, each end 
advancing one pick before it rises to the surface, or 
passes to the back, and each pick advancing one end in 
the same manner. This order of changing of the ends 
and picks will have the effect of producing a distinct 
pattern upon the fabric, a species of cord running in a 
diagonal direction across it. 

But another matter of much more importance than 
the mere pattern is the fact that the order of working 
permits us to introduce more material into the fabric, 
and so make it more bulky and closer in construction. 
The reason for this is to be found in the simple fact 
that the weft and warp interweaving only at intervals of 
two ends or picks permit the two threads, both warp 
and weft, to lie closely together, and consequently to 
allow of a greater number per inch to be introduced into 
the fabric than can be done in plain cloths, 

True, as previously shown, we may make plain cloths 
in which the warp threads lie close together, and others 
in which the weft threads lie perfectly close together; 
but in the one case the weft threads are a considerable 
distance apart, and on the other the warp threads are a 
considerable distance apart, whereas in the twill cloth 
the weft and warp both lie equally close together, so 
that we obtain the requisite closeness of texture in both 
directions, and a corresponding one in the bulk of the 
fabric. Along with the closeness of texture, and in- 
creased weight or bulk, we also obtain another advan- 
tage over the plain cloth, viz, : that by the order of 
interweaving the v/arp bends round the weft, and the 
weft round the warp in an equal degree, exactly as in 
the first order of plain cloth. 



31 




Hindoo Bowing Cotton. 

The Hindoo bow for cleaning cotton is made of bam- 
boo, and is fastened by strings to the wall of the room, 
at about five feet from the floor. To the middle of this 
bow a cord is tied, to which a second bow is attached of 
a larger size, strung with thick cat-gut. This second 
bow hangs about two feet above the ground. The man 
sits down, lays hold of it with the left hand, and holds 
a strong ebony club in his right. Thus equipped, he 
strikes the string of the bow with his club, so as to 
make it toss a flock of the cotton, spread upon the 
floor round about him, up into the air with great vio- 
lence, and thus discharges its impurities. 



Domestic Cotton Goods Sold in Philadelpiiia from 
1804 to 1806. 

The amount of domestic cotton goods sold in Philadel- 
phia, the produce of New England, from 1804 to 1806, 
inclusive, is given in the following statement : 

1804. 1805. 1806. 

Cotton Yarn $2,388 $3,805 $6,185 

Cotton Woven Goods 1,526 1,581 2,185 

Total .- $3,914 $5,386 $8,370 

Total of sales for the three years, $17,670. 



32 

Jacquard Cotton Cloth. 

Regular cloths vary from small patterns on twenty 
ends and twenty picks to others with 2,000 ends and 
picks in a round, while for exceptional cases these 
limits are far exceeded, according to textile authority. 

"A feature of many Jacquard cloths is a figure more 
or less fanciful on a ground which may be plain, twill, 
satin or oatmeal weave. Spots and brilliants are ex- 
amples of this style. 

"Damasks are extensively made. The true damask 
weave consists of a design of large extent, woven, we 
will suppose, with weft predominating in the figure, 
which may be bound by satin or twill weave. The 
ground is also in similar weave, but with warp predomi- 
nating. Thus the cloth is firmly bound at all parts of 
the surface, and is reversible. 

**The damasks woven in cotton do not always fulfill 
these conditions, but are sufficiently similar to war- 
rant their being classified together. Frequently they 
are made in light goods of about sixty ends and picks 
per inch for export to China and other countries, or 
heavier both in yarn and pick, with a finer reed, for the 
home grade. These goods are of great variety of pat- 
tern, and are generally finished before use, or, as in the 
case of furniture and curtain damasks, dyed. 

"Dimity is a cloth of smaller pretentions with regard 
to figure, which is arranged in stripe form. The cloth 
is firmly bound and the figure somewhat raised, which 
gives it an embossed effect. 

*' Brocades are Jacquard cloths of fine yarns, the pat- 
tern arranged in weft spot on plain ground, or narrow 
stripes of spotted figures, which, when well finished, 
have a charming effect. The brocade is not limited to 
the longitudinal stripe or figure, but may be arranged 
as a brocade check, while the ground cloth in either case 
may be of plain weave. A good effect is also produced 
by arranging this style in diamond figures b}^ introduc- 
ing honeycomb diagonally. 

*' Figured canvas gives a pleasing effect when dyed. 
The figure is woven in plain cloth, and the work between 
the figures shows the ends cramped together alternately 
with open spaces, so as to give an open effect, on which 
the figures show to advantage. 

"Figured gauze cloths are woven b3'- the Jacquard." 



33 

Oloth-Looking, or Examining. 

In Englfind the pieces are brought into the warehouse 
of the mill by the weavers, and are hooked in folds of one 
yard. This operation is performed on the hooking or 
plaiting machine. In some concerns the looking is done 
on this machine. Probably the cost is lessened, and 
the ontlooker sees the whole of the piece (not missing 
one side of the "flue," as it not infrequently happens 
in the counter-looking), but the fact that the smaller 
faults are not all seen renders the advantages question- 
able, unless the cloth is afterwards counter-looked. 

The cloth-looker's duty is to examine each piece of 
cloth, reporting any fault to the person responsible, and 
throwing out as seconds the pieces which are not up to 
the quality 



Faults in Cotton Oloth. 

Bare, badly-covered cloth is caused by the back rest of 
the loom being too low, the shed too large, late treading 
and picking, too much weight or uneven sheds. Cockly 
cloth looks raw, and has raised lumps on the face, 
caused by too little weight. Cracks are sometimes 
weavers' faults, in not letting back after weft breaking, 
take up motion working unequally, or through some 
parts not being screwed up tightly. Uneven cloth is 
generally attributable to the weft, although anything 
tending to unequal release of the warp from the beam, 
such as weights touching the floor, damp ropes or loose 
pivots, cause it. 

Reedy cloth is caused when a few dents of the reed 
are bent out of position. 

Bad sides are either slattered, caused by unsatisfac- 
tory bottoming, or are frayed or raw from lack of suf- 
ficient side ends. Occasionally a bad picker catches the 
weft and causes a peculiar ridgy selvage. 

Floats are the result of obstruction in the shed gener- 
ally, broken twist keeping down the warp threads and 
preventing their interweaving with the weft. 

Mashes are on a larger scale. If the shuttle is en- 
trapped without the reed flying out, in loose reed looms, 
or the protector acting in fast reeds, the twist is gener- 
ally broken out for several inches in the width. 

Broken picks are caused by several layers of weft 
coming off" the cop into one shed. 



34 

Classification of Cotton Cloth. 
Woven fabrics of any material may be divided into 
four main classes, says Prof. Brooks: "Plain, figured, 
gauze, and woven pile cloths; laces formed on an en- 
tirely different stnicture being disregarded. 

"Plains show no figure of any nature on the face of 
the cloth, have every end and pick interwoven alter- 
nately, while the warp forms a right angle with the 
weft. Apparent figures, ribs and stripes may be made 
by using fine and coarse weft or alternate counts of 
warp. Stripes or checks of color may be introduced, 
but if the weave be unaltered the cloth is still classed as 
plain. 

"Figured is a very comprehensive group, consisting 
of the twills, sateens, velveteens, figured borders, figured 
checks, damasks, brocades, dimity, w«ft pile, counter- 
panes, fustians, cords, etc., and almost all fancy cloths, 
except gauze and warp pile. 

" Gauze has a peculiar structure, pure gauze differing 
from plain cloth in the ends, weaving at an angle more 
acute than a right angle. Leno is one kind of gauze. 

"Woven or warp pile cloth has a nap woven on the 
face, and cut whilst in the loom — a class of cloth not 
frequently met with in cotton, but generally in the silk 
and carpet trades." 



Where 25 Per Cent, of our Brown Cottons are Made. 

A reliable authority states that 25 per cent, of the 
brown cotton goods manufactured in the United States 
are made in Georgia, within a radius of ten miles of Au- 
gusta, where there are thirteen plants or mills operating 
179,236 spindles, 5,883 looms, and furnishing employ- 
ment to 4,320 hands, to whom is paid in salaries annually 
$991,039.96. The amount of capital employed in these 
mills is $8,755,000; 75,224 bales of cotton are cousunied 
iinuually, and the value of their combined production 
IS $5,444,823. 

During the year 1888 the number of spindles was in- 
creased by 17,840 and 47G looms, and these, togethei- 
with other improvements, caused a further investment 
of capital to the extent of $286,500. 




Old Time Spinning Wheel. 
Two kinds of household spinning wheels are said to 
have been used from time immemorial. The first is 
commonly called in this country the " big wheel," from 

the magnitude of its rim, or the "wool wheel," from its 
being employed in spinning sheep's wool. It was 
well adapted to spin cotton, from the analagous form 
of its filaments, which it did in two independent 
operations. At first the spongy cylinder turned 
off from the hand card was drawn out and slightly 
twisted into a porous cord, called a roving ; at 
the second, this cord was stretched and twisted into a 
fine cohesive thread; in either case the spinster, having 
fixed round the spindle the extremity of the carding or 
roving, seized it a few inches from the end with the 
finger and thumb of the left hand, and, while she turned 
round the wheel with the right, so as to make the 
spindle revolve, she piogressively extended the cotton 
cord by drawing her hand from near the spindle to the 
position in which it is placed as represented in the 
above cut. 



36 

She now completed tlie torsion of the cotton by 
turning the wheel till the thread had acquired the 
desired degree of twist, and then, by a slow counter 
rotation of the wheel and proper giving-in of the left 
liand. she wound up the thread upon the spindle into a 
conical shape, called pira or cop. This is the ancient 
spinning implement of Hindostan. The first mechani- 
cal invention regularly employed in England was con- 
structed upon this principle; several spindles — at first 
eight, afterwards eighty — being made to whirl by one 
fly-wheel, while a movable frame, representing so many 
fingers and thumbs as there were threads, alternately 
receded from the spindles during the extension of the 
thread, and approached to them in its winding on. 




Hindoo Woman Spinning Cotton Yarn. 

The above illustration represents a Hindoo woman 
spinning cotton yarn on the primitive spinning wheel 
of India. In that country women of all castes prepare 
the cotton thread for the weaver, spinning the thread 
on a piece of wire, or a very thin rod of polished iron, 
with a ball of clay at one end; this they turn round 
with the left hand, and supply the cotton with the right; 
the thread is then wound upon a stick or pole, and sold 
to the merchants or weavers; for the coarser thread the 
women make use of a wheel very similar to that used by 
our grandmothers. 



37 

Manufacture of Cotton Cords, Fustians, etc. 

Cotton cords, moleskins, corduroy, fustians, bull- 
hides, thicksets, made in England, are all jjile fabrics of 
a heavy character. The pile is all in the weft, floating 
upon a ground cloth. Different makes of each fabric 
are woven and named frequently according to the style 
of the- ground or backing weave, e. .g, tabby back 
means plain, Genoa is a4-end twill, Jeanette is a 3-end 
twill, double Genoa, double Jeanette. The cords show 
a broad wale or stripe running lengthwise of the piece, 
consisting of weft floating over the warp and ground 
cloth, and in such a manner that when slit along the 
centre of each stripe the divided threads stand up to 
form a cord. The weft of the next wale being cut simi- 
larly, a stripe of pile fabrics is now formed, having its 
centre above the groove which divided each stripe of 
uncut yarn. 

A rounded effect is given to these cords by having the 

threads forming the centre of greater lengths than the 

sides of the cord, they having had a longer float in the 

weaving. This cloth is dyed and finished, being sold as 

corduroy. 

^i»i 

The Original G-ingham. 
Gingham was originally introduced with its present 
name from India, and in the early days was more or 
less largely imported into Europe. At first the India 
ginghams consisted of cotton cloths, with two or more 
colors arranged as a small checkered pattern. Now a 
great variety are formed of this material, and in the case 
of umbrella ginghams, the whole piece is woven with 
yarn of one color. In England ginghams are known by 
the following names: Plain, common light grounds; 
plain, common dark grounds; Earlston ginghams, power 
loom seersuckers and checks, colored diapers, cross- 
over stripe, derries, Hungarians, jean stripes and um- 
brella ginghams, American ginghams include staples, 
fancy staples, fancies, cords, crinkle seersuckers, novel- 
ties, light and dark dress styles, zephyrs, indigoes, 
bourettes, and also the particular names or brands of 
the different makes, such as Amoskeag, Abbotsford, 
Arlington, Bates, Johnson, Lancaster, Manchester, Park 
Mills, Plunkett, Renfrew, Slatersvllle, Westbrook, White 
Manufacturing Co., Whittenton, York, etc. 



38 

Manufacture of Cotton Counterpanes and Quilts. 

The Jacquard loom is largely used in the counterpane 
and quilt industry. Marseilles and toilet quilts, with 
which may be associated the well known toilet cloths, 
on the double-cloth principle, present a good face of 
plain weave in fine yarns, being embossed, as it were, 
in the cloth by additional warp threads. This backing 
weft sometimes floats outside the cloth, sometimes is 
bound inside just below the plain face, and at other 
parts the whole of the yarn is firmly united. Where 
the backing is brought inside, the top cloth is raised up, 
while at those places where all the ends are woven to- 
gether a depression is caused. Large embossed figures 
may thus be shown on the cloth, although it appears to 
have an unbroken surface. A coarser quality is made 
where both face and back wefts are coarse and from the 
same cop. 

Perched quiltings are in this style, but the figures are 
small, diamond-shaped and irregular. The honeycomb 
quilt, as its name implies, is a cloth with the figures on 
its surface formed by raised ridges, both warp and weft 
way. This is generally woven in bleached knitting 
cottons two or threefold, and as with this weave others 
may be combined and stripes of colored worsted in- 
serted, great scope is given to the designer. A Grecian 
quilt is woven in bleached knitting cottons, and j'^et the 
coarse threads give a smooth, glossy surface in conse- 
quence of the weave being on the damask principle — 
i. e., the figure may be formed in a weft satin while the 
ground is a warp satin. The Alhambra quilts are fig- 
ured in various designs and woven with vari-colored 
yarns. 



Cost of Heavy Cottons. ' 

A writer of some experience says the expense of the 

Eastern cotton mills for coarse goods, such as common 

heavy sheetings, may be estimated as follows: 

Cents. 

Middling cottons, delivered 13 . 40 

Waste 1 .48 

Labor 3 . 80 

General Expenses 2 . 08 

Total 20 . 88 

2.80 yards cloth to one pound of Cotton would equal 
7.45 cents per yard. 



39 

Nainsooks, Cambrics and Percaierj for Underwear. 

Many American women now use French nainsooks, 
linen cambric and percales for underwear. There 
is less of imported cambric used than formerlj^ owing 
to the superiority of our own domestic cambrics. The 
Wamsutta, Lonsdale, and especially tlie Berkeley mills 
all make cambrics which rival the best imported goods, 
and are sold at less than one-half. Madapolam is a 
heavy quality of percale which sells at about twenty-five 
cents per yard, retail, and is especially recommended as 
durable goods for underwear. Nearly all stores now keep 
Hamburgs worked on madapolams, for use on garments 
made of this material. These embroidered bands are 
finished without dressing, and are far superior to all 
Hamburgs, even French Hamburg, which has been con- 
sidered the best of all. Unfortunately, they are sold 
only in four and a-half yard lengths, in all widths — a 
length which does not always cut to advantage. 



Cotton Terry Cloth. 

A pile fabric of cotton which has attracted great 

attention during the last few years is the Turkish or 

Terry towel. This is woven with two beams, one for 

the loop pile, and the other carrying the ground warp, 

which is always kept tight. After two picks have been 
inserted and tightly beaten up, the reed is allowed to fly 
loose by a peculiar arrangement, and both warps being 
kept tight, two picks are put in without beating up. 
Then the reed is fastened, the loop warp slackened, 
and on the next pick being beaten up, the two previous 
ones are also driven home, and with them the loop 
warp, which stood between the fell and the two neglected 
picks, thus forms loops on both sides of the cloth. 

This weave is not confined to the making of fabrics 
with an unbroken pile surface, but is adopted in stripes 
for bath towels and wraps, in check and even figures 
for quilts, combined with color in other effects, and also 
woven alternately in some special cloth with entirely 
different patterns. The headings, also for the towels, 
are of a firmer weave and afford great scope for 
ornamentation. 



40 

The Cotton Gin. 

Dr. Ure gives the following description of the cotton 
gin: 

"The principal parts of the saw-gin are two cylinders 
of different diameters (see F H, Figs. 1 and 2) mounted 
in a strong wooden frame (A), which are turned by 
means of a pulley and belt, acting upon the axis of a 
fly wheel attached to the end of the shaft opposite to 
that seen in the section of figure 1. Its endless band 
turns a large pulley upon the end (D) of the saw cylinder 
(F) iind a smaller pulley on the end (E) of the brush 
cylinder (H, Fig. 2), so as to make the latter revolve 
with greater rapidity. Upon the wooden cylinder (F), 
ten inches in diameter, are mounted three-quarters of 
an inch apart, fifty, sixty, or even eighty circular saws, 
edged as at 1, figure 1, of one foot diameter, which fit 
very exactly into grooves cut one inch deep into the 
cylinder. 




FIG. 1. — SECTION OF WHITNEY'S SAW-GIN. 

"Each saw consists of two segments of a circle, and is 
preferably made of hammered sheet iron. Opposite to 
the interstices of the saws are flat bars of iron, which 
form a parallel grid of such a curvature that the shoul- 
der of the slanting sawtooth passes first and then the 
p^int." 



41 

"The hollow cylinder, H, is mounted with the brushes 
c, c, c, the tips of whose bristles touch the saw-teeth, as 
at d, d, fig. 2, and thus sweep off the adhering cotton. 
The cylinder H revolves in an opposite direction to the 
cylinder F, as is indicated by the arrows in fig. 1. 

"The seed cotton, as picked from the pods, is thrown 
into the hopper, L, fig. 1; the disc-saws, I, in turning 
round encounter the cotton filaments resting against 
the grid, ciitch them with their sharp teeth, and drag 
tliem inwards and upwards, while the stripped seeds, 
too large to pass between the bars, fall through the bot- 
tom, N, of the hopper, upon the inclined board, M. 
The size of the aperture, N, is regulated at pleasure by 
an adjusting screw to suit the size of the particular spe- 
cies of seeds. The saw-teeth, filled with cotton, after 
returning through the grid, meet the brushes c, c, c, of 
the cylinder H, and deliver it up to them." 




PIG. 2.— PLAN OF SAW BRUSH AND CYLINDER OF WHITNEY SAW-GIN. 

"The cotton is thereafter whisked down upon the 
sloping table, 0, and thence falls into the receptacle, P. 
A cover, Q, fig. 1, encloses both the cylinders and the 
hopper; this cover is turned up round its hinges (as 
shown in fig. 1) in order to introduce the charge of 
seed cotton into the machine, and is then let down be- 
fore setting the wheels in gear with the driving power. 
The axes, e, e, f, f, of these cylinders (fig. 2) are well 
fitted into their plummer box-bearings, so as to pre- 
vent any lateral swagging, which would greatly injure 
their operation. The raised position of the cover is 
obvious in fig. 1, the hinges being placed at B." 



42 

Decline in the Demand for Oottonades. 
The reason why eottonades have lost their former 
popularity, according to a manufacturer's authority, is 
found in the very great improvement in the manu- 
facture of woolen goods, and the constantly declining 
prices at which they are sold. The improvement in 
woolen manufactures was succeeded by the production 
of stylish cotton cassimeres by the cottonade mills, 
many of which to-day do not make a piece of the old 
fabric except in small quantities for special orders. 
Several of the once prominent cottonade makers are even 
scarcely remembered. The decline in the demand for 
oottonades is one of the many things to be noted in the 
period covered, but as a specialty for men's clothing 
the decrease in the production of this article has been 
wonderful. 

Naturally and Artificially Colored Nankeen Olotli. 

Cotton cloth of the kind called "nankeen," or naked, 
was formerly extensively exported from China to Europe 
and this country, and was said to be the manufacture of 
Nanking, the color, a yellowish buff, being the favorite 
one. It was supposed that the Chinese held the secret 
for dyeing this color, which was found to be remarkably 
endurable, but it became known that it was not an artifi- 
cial color at all, the cloth being made of a colored variety 
of cotton, which was produced occasionally in China and 
India. Artificially dyed nankeen cloths now form a con- 
siderable export from Eugland to China. 

The color of artificial nankeen cloth is produced by 
an elaborate process, in which the yarn or cloth is first 
dipped in a saturated solution of alum, then in a bath 
of lime water, and next in a bath of nitro-muriate of tin. 
Another, but less permanent, nankeen dye is produced 
by boiling annatto in a strong solution of pearl ashes 
and diluting with water to the required tint. 



Buying Cotton for Future Delivery. 
Cotton bought for future delivery is purchased on the 
basis of the price for middling cotton, that is, the terms 
of the sale apply to middling cotton, but the seller has 
tlie option of delivering higher or lower grade cotton 
when the time agreed upon arrives, adding or subtract- 
ing from the basis of the contract, the current difference 
in price between middling and the grade he delivers. 
The purchaser does not necessarily buy middling cot- 
ton, but a certain number of bales of cotton on a basis 
of such a price for middling. 



43 

Origin of the Manufacture of Thread. 
The use of the spinning wheel, which is an improved 
method of twisting the thread, was introduced into 
England in the time of Henry VIII., from India, where 
it had long been in use. The modern application of 
machinery to spinning thread began in England in 1767 
by James Hargreaves' invention of the spinning jenny. 
This was improved upon by Eichard Arkwright, and in 
1779 by Samuel Crompton, of Bolton, England. The 
latter completed a machine which combined the jenny 
of Hargreaves and the roller of Arkwright, which was 
called a mule jenny, or now more generally known as the 
mule. In this country spinning has been a very im- 
portant industry from a very early date. At first it was 
necessarily a domestic industry, and the spinning wheel 
was an indispensable utensil in every household. The 
first sewing thread ever made of cotton was produced 
at Pawtucket, 11, I., in 1794. Prior to this time flax had 
bf en the material used in this manufacture. The idea 
of using cotton is said to have been suggested by Mrs. 
Samuel Slater, the wife of the pioneer of the cotton in- 
dustry of this country. With the introduction of ma- 
chine-made thread the development has been very rapid. 



Numbers of Thread. 

When 840 yards of yarn weigh 7,000 grains, a pound 
of cotton, the yarn is No. 1. If 1,680 yards weigh a 
pound it will be No. 2 yarn. For No. 50 yarn it would 
take fifty multiplied by 840 yards to weigh a pound. 
This is the whole of the yarn measurement. The early 
manufactured thread was three-cord, and thread took 
its number from the number of the yarn from which it 
was made. No. 60 yarn made No. 60-thread, though, in 
point of fact, the actual calibre of No. 60 thread would 
equal No. 20 yarn, being three 60 strands. 

When the sewing machine came into the market as 
the great consumer, six-cord cotton had to be made as a 
smoother product. As thread numbers were already 
established, they were not altered for the new article, 
and No 60 six- cord and No. 60 three-cord are identi- 
cal in size as well as in number. To effect this the six- 
cord has to be made of yarn twice as fine as that de- 
manded by the three-cord. The No, 60 six-cord would 
be six strands of No. 120 yarn. The three-cord spool 
cotton is the same number as the yarn it is made of. 
Six-cord spool cotton is made of yarn that is double its 
number. 



u 
How Spool Cotton is Made. 

Few people ever stop to think of the twistings and 
turnings and thb various processes that cotton fibre 
goes through after it is taken from the pod before it 
is wound upon a spool and ready for the housewife's 
needle. The Sea Island cotton is used for thread on 
account of the length of the fibre. The first thing that 
is done with the cotton is to subject it to the " picker " 
process, by which the cotton from several bales is mixed 
to secure uniformity. During the picker process much 
waste, in i;he form of dust, dirt and short fibres, is sep- 
arated from the good ftbres by the picker. Next the 
picked cotton is wound on a machine, in sheets or laps, 
into a roll. 

The next process is the carding, by which the sheets 
of Qotton are combed or run out into long parallel 
fibres. The cotton is next seen drawn through a trum- 
pet-shaped opening, which condenses it into a single 
thread or sliver. Then eight such slivers are run to- 
gether into one, six of the strands thus produced are 
drawn into one, and again six of the strands from the 
last drawing are combined into one. 

Then comes the slubbing or fast "roving" process, 
whic^h consists of widening the strand and bobbin. Two 
strands are twisted and again wound on a bobbin. After 
a number of other twistings and windings, during 
which the strand is gradually reduced in size until it 
begins to assume a thread-like appearance, two strands 
of this fine "roving" are run togeUier and twisted, 
under considerable tension, on a bobbin that makes 
7,000 revolutions a minute. Two of the cords thus pro- 
duced are then wound together on a spool, and then 
twisted from that spool to another, and then three 
threads of two cords each are twisted together, form- 
ing six-cord thread. One who has followed the process 
sees the cotton gradually transformed from a wide 
band or sheet of loose cotton to a thread that will pass 
through the eye of a needle. 

The six-cord thread is at last taken from bobbin and 
reeled into a skein, in which form it is bleached or dyed. 
Then it is wound back from the skein upon a big spool, 
from which it is supplied to little white birch spools, 
upon which it is wound in regular courses, and is then 
ready for t he market. The machine that regulates the 
last winding measures the number of yards wound on 
eaoh spool. The spools are made of various sizes, to 
nold from 200 to 12,000 yards of thread- The labels that 
decorate the ends of the spools when they are sold are 
last put on. They are cut and pasted on by machinery 
with great rapidity. 



45 




-;^^>^ 






Hindoo Cotton Weaver at his Loom. 

The Hindoo loom consists of two bamboo rollers— one 
for the warp and another for the woven cloth— and a j)air 
of heddles for parting the warp in the decussation of 
the woof. The shuttle performs the double office of 
shuttle and lay for driving home the parallel yarns. 

The Tani^/ (weaver) carries this rude apparatus to any 
tree which may afford a comfortable shade. There lie 
digs a hole large enough to receive his legs and the 
lower part of the gear or treadles; he then stretches his 
warp by fastening his twp bamboo rollers at a proper 
distance from each other with pins into the turf; the 
treadles he fastens to some convenient branch of the 
tree overhead; he inserts his great toes into two loops 
under the gear to serve him for treadles; he finally 
sheds the warp, draws the weft, and afterwards strikes 
it up close to the weft with his long shuttle, which thus 
performs the office of a bobbin. 



4G 

Oonsumption of Ootton Goods. 
The world, it is estimated, uses probably about 
12,000,000 bales of cotton of 480 pounds, commercial 
weight, annually. The yearly consumption of cotton 
goods in the United States is stated to average about 
fifteen pounds per capita, and of the entire world over 
three and under four pounds per capita. The portion 
of the world's cotton product, worked on modern ma- 
chinery, does not exceed 7,000 000 bales. Of the whole 
force of labor engaged in specific cotton manufactures 
in this country — numbering in 1880, 172,000 — about 
160,000 were employed in making woven goods and 
yarns for our home consumption. It is also calculated 
that it would take 16,000,000 persons to make the same 
number of yarns by hand that these 172,000 turned out 
through the use of improved machinerj'. Calculating 
the present average pejXacre, the cotton of the world 
could be produced on //ess than 25,000,000 acres. Our 
export trade of cottoj/ fabrics takes about seven to 
eight per cent, of our annual manufactured product. 
^ 



Consumption of Twine. 
Few persons have an idea of the enormous consump- 
tion of twine in this country. One of the greatest 
demands for the article comes from the farmers, who 
consume 35,000 tons annually upon self - binding 
harvesters. AUowiug five pounds to the mile, this 
would be equal to a string long enough to go more than 
six times around the earth. It takes a length of about 
three feet of twine to tie a bundle of straw. The farmer 
sits on his machine, drives alone through his grain field, 
and without any assistance cuts, bundles and ties twelve 
acres of wheat grain per day. 



Mill-Brands of Britisli Cottons. 
Few cottons in England are known by the name of 
the factory which produced them. The yarn is mostly 
spun in one establishment, woven in another, and fin- 
ished in a third. In this country the yarns are sj^un 
and the goods woven usually in the same factory, and 
the cloth, whether sold in the gray or bleached, is 
marketed under the name of the factory in which it is 
mad,e. This also applies to calicoes. 



47 

Our Cotton Goods Trade Forty Years Ago. 

About forty years ago the dry goods commission 
•bouses were mostly centred in Boston for the sale of 
domestic cottons mainly, such as brown and bleached 
shirtings and sheetings, prints, ticking, etc. In Philadel- 
phia they manufactured .what was called "blue goods," 
which included checks, denims, stripes, etc. The general 
trade of the country were then obliged to make visits to 
the two markets — Boston and Philadelphia — to obtain 
their supplies of cottons. They had to go to Boston to 
buy their brown and bleached sheetings and shirtings 
and printed goods, mostly calicoes. They returned to 
New York and bought their imported goods, and then 
went to Philadelphia on their way home, and bought their 
lines of checks, denims, stripes, ticks, etc. 

It was then suggested, for the convenience of country 
merchants, that the commission houses doing business 
in Boston and Philadelphia should send agents or open 
branches in New York City. At first the Boston mer- 
chants, who were the agents of the Eastern mills, op- 
posed the project, and only a few of them could be 
induced to open small offices in New York. 

But it was soon discovered that in the small offices 
opened in New York a larger business was transacted in 
the same given time than was done by the parent houses 
in the East, and so one house after another, and mill 
after mill, opened agencies in New York for the sale of 
the goods which they represented or manufactured, and 
the business soon developed into very extensive 
proportions. 

The prices of nearly all kinds of textiles in those 
early days were much higher than they are now. No 
good American calico could be procured for less than 
12J cents a yard, and some of it even at that price was 
often found to be steam colors instead of being printed 
with madder. 

The best and choicest foreign calicoes brought from 
20 to 30 cents a yard, and even higher prices. 



English Cotton Blankets and Cotton Flannels. 
In England there is a heavy cloth woven from coarse 
(waste) yarns named cotton blankets and cotton flannels. 
This fabric passes through a razing machine in which 
its surface is scratched by pointed steel teeth. It is 
largely exported. 



48 

Cotton and Hemp Twine and Shoe Thread. 

It is estimated that there are about $8,000,000 worth 
of flax and hemp strings made in this country every 
year, not the big sorts, such as lines, ropes, cables and 
hawsers, but just such strings as are lumped together 
under the broad name of twines. And, besides, there 
are great quantities of cotton strings, and here and 
there still a few paper ones, though the latter — invented 
when cotton was high priced during the war, and then 
quite common — are now seldom seen. 

There are eight twin6 factories in the country: three in 
the upper part of New York, two in Masachusetts, two 
in New Jersey, and one (the largest) in New York city. 
The latter employs 800 hands, and turns out li.OOO 
pounds per diem of finished twines and shoe thread, 
ranging in value from 14c. to $1.50 per pound. In 
addition to these eight, there are scattered through the 
Eastern States several small establishments, but there is 
none, large or small, in the West or South. 



dost of Operating Sonthern and Northern Cotton Mills. 

Comparison of the cost of running a weaving room of 
500 looms in the South and 500 looms on the same class 
of goods in Philadelphia, Pa., is given as follows : 

Southern Mill: 500 looms; overseer, $18- per week; sec- 
ond hand, $12 per week ; 10 fixers, $90 ; 4 filling boys, 
$12 per week ; 2 sweepers, $8 per week ; total, $140. 
Production of Southern weaving room, 156,250 yards of 
domestic checks, 42 picks to the inch, weight about 5 
yards to the pound; warp and filling about number 15 
at 50 yards to the cut give 3,125 cuts at 30c. per cut, 
$937.50. This is a trifle over 50 yards per day. Some 
Southern mills will run close up to 60. Running ex- 
penses South, $140; weavers' pay South, $937,50; total, 
$1,077. 

Philadelphia Mill: 500 looms; overseer, $18 per week; 
7 loom fixers at $15 per week, amounting to $105 ; 
filling boys, $12; total, $135; second hands are unknown 
in Philadelphia mills. Production per week of domestic 
checks, 500 looms ; 42 yards per daj^ each loom 126,000 
yards, divide by 50 yards for each cut, $1,512 ; running 
expenses per week, $135; total, $1,647,- 



> - 49 

Hand Loom. 
The following represents the hand loom in its simplest 
form: 




A A is the frame of the loom, and is of no other use 
than to hold the working parts in their proper position. 
At each end of the frame two rollers are placed, B C, 
so that they will readily turn on their axis; and from 
one to the other the threads of the warp are attached, 
and kept tight by the weights h b. The warp threads 
are wound around the roller B, which is called the 
beam or yarn-roll, only as much of each thread being 
left unwound as will reach the other roller, C, which is 
the cloth-heam, to which the ends are fastened, and upon 
which the cloth is wound as- it is woven. The next 
step is to divide the warp thread into two equal sets by 
raising up every alternate one, and inserting between a 
smooth rod of wood to prevent them entangling or 
returning to their former position. This separation 
takes place before the final fixing of the ends of the 
threads to the cloth-beam, because, previous to that, 
each thread must be passed through a small loop in a 
perpendicular thread called the heald. The united 
action of the two healds opens the space between 
the two sets of warp threads, and this space is called 
the shed, and through it is thrown the shuttle, a small 
boat-like instrument which carries the thread of the 
imft. The harness in a loom is that portion of the ap- 
paratus by which the warp threads are moved to make 
the decussation. 



50 

Cotton Warp Yarn. 
Warp 3'arn is generally stronger than weft, and the 
hardness is generally obtained by extra twisting of the 
thread. Owing to this peculiarity, warp yarn is gen- 
erally called "twist." For heavy sizing purposes a soft 
spun twist is advisable, and one made out of the harder 
and wiry stapled cottons. The spongy and size-absorb- 
ent properties are obtained at the expense of the strength 
of the yarn, and therefore a good sizing twist often 
winds badly. The color of the warp yarn is not im- 
portant, and therefore whiter cottons are reserved for 
weft. Fine twists are spun out of longer and finer cot- 
tons, forming a close thread, which is used for better 
classes of cloth lightly sized. Strength and elasticity 
are great advantages in twist, and these properties 
should be obtained and preserved for the last process 
of weaving. 



Cotton Skips and Cops. 

In England cotton warp yarn is generally received by 
the manufacturers from the spinners in skips of 200 to 
250 pounds weight, and in the form of a cop. This has 
a cylindrical formation, coned at each end, the more 
pointed end, on which the yarn is wound, being called 
the nose, and the opposite end the cop bottom. The 
best spinners make the cop about 7^ inches long and 
1^ inches in diameter. 

In each twist of the yarn preference is given to the 
most even thread, round and free from motes, knotty 
places and snarls; the latter is recognized by slack ends at 
the mule, tortion of the thread taking up the loose yarn 
in the form of a twisted cop. 

A similar efifect, called a " snick," is caused by loose 
ends and inferior traverses at the winding frame, but 
wherever caused the fault is most annoying to the 
weaver, and deteriorative to the weft which is intended 
for printing, as the loops arise after the weft has re- 
ceived the impression of the pattern, showing white 
specks of an objectionable character. The twisted cop 
should be of full dimensions, firm and hard, cop free 
from loose ends, and being clear from apertures at the 
bottom of the winder's skewer. Any fault in this respect 
causes an increased percentage of waste most objection- 
able to manufacturers. 



51 

Cotton Yarn Calculations. 
The fineness of cotton yarns is indicated by the 
counts (otherwise numbers or grist). The counts refer 
to the number of hanks in the pound, avoirdupois. "A 
cotton hank is always 840 yards, and, therefore, if we 
speak of 10s, we refer to yarn of which 10 hanks, or 
8,400, weigh one pound; or, in referring to 36, of that 
which 36x840, or 30,240, weigh one pound. This applies 
to either twist or weft. The cotton yarn measure is: 
120 yards equal 1 lea; 7 leas, or 840 yards, equal 1 hank; 
and the cotton yarn weight is peculiar, being an avoir- 
dupois pound divided into pennyweights and ounces, 
as in Troy weight: 24 grains equal 1 pennyweight; 
437A grains equal 18 11-48 pennyweights, equal one 
ounce; 7,000 grains equal 16 ounces, equal 1 pound; Is 
are taken as a standard with 840 yards in 7,000 grains, 
and a higher count means finer yarn; then 840 yards of 
say 2s would weigh 35,000 grains, or 70s would weigh 
100 grains. 

" If we measure a hank of yarn and find that it weighs 
100 grains, then 7,000 divided by 100 gives the counts. 
It is convenient in wrapping yarn to measure 840 yards; 
therefore a lea of yards is taken as the standard length 
for Is, and also the proportionate weight equal to 1,000 
■grains. The wrapping roll is 1| yards in circumler- 
ence, and by revolving eighty times we can wind 120 
yards from a cop placed in the machine. Suppose this 
lea of 120 yards weighs 25 grains, then l,000-25s equal 
40s. Should less than a lea be taken, say 60 yards, the 
500 grains must be the dividend. Generally the grade 
to obtain the counts of any yarn, 120 yards are weighed. 
"In French, the cotton standard is 1,000 metres in 
500 grammes— equivalent to 992.4 yards in 1 pound. 
Thus 1.181s in English would be Is in French. To 
transfer cotton measure to any other, take the cotton 
count and equivalent inversely to the cotton in the 
hanks." 

. ^ t» — — 

Only Two Ways of Producing a Heavy Pabric. 
A well-known cotton goods manufacturer says that to 
produce a heavy fabric there are only two ways of doing 
it— either the use of thick, bulky threads or the use of 
an increased number of fine ones. "If we use bulky 
threads our fabric must present an appearance of coarse- 
ness, no matter what may be the order of interweaving, 
and we have no possible means of reducing the coarse- 
ness. If we use fine threads it is more than likely that 
the order of interweaving will prevent the introduction 
of as many threads as will produce the weight of fabric 
we desire." 



52 

Difference Between Mule and Throstle Twist. 

Mule twist is used for weaving muslins and the finest 
kinds of cotton goods. The essential difference between 
this and water-twist is, that the mule produces much 
finer articles than can possibly be made upon throstles, 
at the same time making a softer thread. As it re- 
quires much less power to run the same number of 
mule spindles than throstles, the manufacturer spins 
every kind of j^arn which he can upon the mule; but it 
will produce only the softest kinds of thread. It will 
spin all numbers, from the lowest up to 300 hanks to 
the pound. 

The yarn spun upon the throstle has its fibre closer 
twisted than that spun upon the mule, and is more es- 
teemed for certain purposes, especially for making 
thread, than the latter. Throstle yarn is stronger and 
more even than mule yarn, and better adapted for 
warps; but the range of throstles is limited, and the 
coiints seldom exceed 4:0's, though throstles are made 
capable of spinning yarns up to 80's or lOO's. The reason 
is that the fine thread has not strength to stand the 
" drag " required to wind the yarn on the bobbin. 

The mule, on the other hand, will spin both twist 
and weft, and as high as No. lOO's, or more, while still 
finer numbers can be spun by hand mules. Mule yarn 
is softer and more woolly in texture than throstle yarn, 
which arises from the vibration of the thread as the 
carriage is drawn out from the rollers. 



Comparative Strength of Cotton Mule Twist. 

The following table, prepared by an English expert, 

will give a general idea of the comparative strength of 

mule twists having for American cotton the standard 

turns in — i. e., square root of counts multiplied by 3| : 

20's American Cotton equal 80 pounds. 

30's '« " " 54 

40's ♦• '•' " 40 

40's Egyptian " " 50 

50's American " " 28 " 

50's Egyptian " " 37 

GO'S ' " " " 30 

70's " *' " 3G *' 

In yarn diameters of the threads do not vary inversely 
as the counts, but inversely as a square root of the 
counts. 



53 

Carding, Drawing and Eoving. 
The accompanying cut gives a more or less graphic 
illustration of the operations of the carding, drawing 
iiud roving of cotton. 




The carding engine derives its name from the cards 
by which its functions are fulfilled. Each fibre of cot- 
ton is more or less twisted around those near it, and the 
object of the carding process is to separate these fibres 
and to lay them all in parallel directions, because if this 
were not done the yarn produced would be uneven and 
knotty. 

The sliver or long ribbon of cotton produced from 
the carding machine has to undergo the process of 
" drawing," that is, it must be made of an even thick- 
ness throughout, and its width diminished. This is 
effected by the drawing frame. The sliver thus pro- 
duced is next converted into " roving." This is effected 
by giving a moderate amount of twist to the cotton to 
form a yarn of about the thickness of an ordinary lead 

pencil. The next process is spinning. On the right 
of the above plate the roving frame is shown, with the 
carding and drawing machines on the left. The above 
cut represents machinery in use in some of our older 
cotton mills, modern fixtiires being lighter, more com- 
plex and automatic. 



64 

Bundling Cotton Tarn. 
In order that cotton banks may J^be conveniently 
packed for sending to market, tliey are squeezed into a 
bundling -press. All hanks are the same length, 840 yards ; 
all are weighed by the same unit of weight, 1 lb. ; and 
the number attached to each kind denotes the number 
of hanks of that kind which go to a pound. Usually 
about ten pounds, of whatever number or fineness, are 
pressed together to form a bundle ; and from thirty to 
forty of these bundles are pressed together into a bale, 
which then weighs from 300 to 500 lbs. 



Sizing or Dressing Cotton. 
Cotton is never woven in its natural state. It always 
receives a dressing or coating of some kind of liquid 
size, which is allowed to dry before the weaving begins. 
The object is to diminish the roughness on the fibrous 
surface of the yarns, and thereby facilitate the weaving. 
The yarns from several rollers are unwound and made 
to pass through a vessel of hot liquid size, and then be- 
tween rollers, which squeeze the glutinous composition 
into the very heart of the thread. Thence the yarns 

pass over drying cylinders, made of sheet iron or copper, 
heated within by steam pipes. This quickly dries the 
size, and prepares the yarn to be wound upon the 
loeaver's beam, a roller which receives uniform layers 
from end to end. 

^»» 

Tenison of Cotton Fibres. 

The average length of staple Sea Island cocton is 
nearly two inches, v^hile that of Surat is but a litile 
over one inch. The tension strength of this cotton Is, 
however, much inferior to that of many other cloths, 
breaking with 83 grains, while Pernambuco and Surat 
stand a weight of 140 grains. It is said that the amount 
of twisting in cotton thread is a very important element 
in the establishment of its strength, and that the Dacca 
muslins of India, owe a large part of their superiority 
in lightness and strength to the lightness of the twist 
of the delicate film of which they are composed. Ac- 
cording to Dr. Watson, the average number of twists in 
the French muslin is 68 ; in the English, 56 ; in the Dacca 
they amount to 110. Somoideaof the lightness of this 
Dacca muslin may be inferred from the fact that a piece 
of it, one yard wide and ten yards long, weighs only a 
little over three ouncis. 



65 

Displacement of LalDor in the Ootton Q-oods Industry 

by Machinery, 

The cotton goods industry of the United States offers 
perhaps as striking an illustration as any of the appar- 
ent displacement of labor by machinery. With a hand- 
loom a weaver used to weave from 60 to 80 picks per 
minute in weaving cotton cloth of good quality, with 
twenty threads of twist to each one -quarter square 
inch. A power loom now weaves 180 picks per minute 
of the same kind of cloth. Even in power machinery, 
a weaver formerly tended but one loom. Now, one 
weaver minds all the way from two to ten power looms, 
according to the grade of goods. The ratio of cost 
per pound for labor of common cotton cloth for the years 
1828 and 1880 was as 6.77 to 3.31, wages for the same 
dates being as 2.62 to 4.84. The average consumption 
of cotton, which indicates the standard of life as well 
as any one item, was per capita of total population 
for the year 1831, 5.90 pounds, while in 1880, the con- 
sumption rose to 13.91 pounds, this being exclusive of 
exports. In Great Britian in 1833 the consumption, 
exclusive of exports, was 6.62 pounds per capita, and 
in 1880, 7.75 pounds. Working time has been de- 
creased on an average 12 per cent. 



Common Ootton Fabrics of the World Compared. 

The common cotton fabrics of England, Belgium and 
Germany could now hardly be sold in the United States 
at any price. French cottons, however, are better. The 
calicoes produced in the United States for the masses are 
better, finer in color, and more varied in style than those 
made in Europe. In this country, the sizing up on the 
warp, in order to weave it, is made from corn or potato 
starch, which contributes about 2 1-2 to 5 per cent, of 
the weight in the gray color. In England, pure sizing 
is made of wheat flour. One hundred pounds there 
has been known to be used to one hundred pounds of 
cotton. Sizing is intended to lose 10 to 12 per cent, of 
weight on first washing. English cotton fabrics exported 
or used by the working classes at home are generally 
loaded with 10 to 40 per cent, clay and other substances. 



56 

Mills in United States Making Brown, Bleached and 

Oolored Cottons. 

On a more or less close calculation it is estimated that 
there are about the following number of mills engaged 
directly and indirectly in the production of brown, 
bleached and colored cottons, print cloths and prints in 
the United States : 

Mills making brown and bleached cottons 125 

Mills making brown, bleached and colored cottons. . 150 

Mills making colored cottons 250 

Mills making print cloths 70 

Mills making prints 15 

The above, if added together, would make 610 estab- 
lishments, but the number is not so large as that, for 
the reason that many of the same make in varying 
quantity all the different classes of cottons describe. 3, 
while others are devoted exclusively to specific manu- 
factures, such as brown and bleached sheetings and 
shirtings, or brown, bleached and colored cot toes, or 
print cloths, or prints, and are necessarily contained 
within each respective classification. However, the 
above exhibit shows one thing, that all the various reg- 
ular and standard tickets, as well as fancy brands of 
brown, bleached and colored woven cottons made in 
this country, are produced by these factories, and that 
the names of the same have been so multiplied in num- 
ber and variety within the past few years that they 
now extend well into the thousands in number. 

While diversification of kind, quality and style of our 
domestic cotton fabrics is steadily and rapidly enlarg- 
ing, it is a question whether they will keep pace in this 
direction with the increase in the variety of the fancy 
names given to them. As an illustration : one make of 
brown, bleached or colored cottons that has a standard 
reputation will not only be maintained and sold under 
its own original and regular ticket, but to satisfy the 
caprices -or contingencies of the trade in various parts 
of the country, will have probably a dozen different 
fancy names that bear no relation whatever to the 
original cognomen. This is due to the keen and close 
competition on the part of both the jobbing and the re- 
tail trades, which reduces sometimes the profits of both 
to such a low ebb, that they cannot afford to carry the 
goods unless they have eome protection or compensa- 
tion in the way of fancy tick(ts that are not strictly 
competitive 60 far as brand is concerned. 



57 



Tlie Mule-Jeiiny. 




The above gives the front and side views of the mule- 
jenny. For the spinning of fine cotton yarns this 
machine is generally used. The bobbins containing 
the cotton "^rovings are placed on a fixed frame; the 
spindles by which these rovings are to be twisted into 
yarn are on a movable frame; the movable frame, by 
traveling four or five feet outward, then an equal dis- 
tance backward, and so on alternately, stretches and 
attenuates the threads. The two sets of operatiotis, 
elongating and spinning, succeed each other with ex- 
quisite regularity; 600 or 700 threads, all arranged par- 
allel, being managed by self-regulating mechanism. 
Mule-yarn, as it is technically called, being twisted more 
softly and carefully than throstle-yarn, is suitable for the 
weft, or cross-threads of coarse goods, and for both 
warp and weft of fine goods. 

^^^ 



Horse Power for Propelling Cotton Spinning Machinery. 

Baird gives the following illustration of a horse-power 
in cotton spinning: 

A one horse-power is calculated to drive, at an average 
speed, 100 throstle spindles, on No. 25 cotton-yarn 
twist, including the necessary preparation. 

A one horse-power will drive 250 mule spindles, with 
preparation, on No. 25 yarn filling. 

A one horse-power will drive 500 mule spindles, with 
preparation, on No. 60 yarn filling, and for intermediate 
numbers in proportion. 

A one horse-power will drive 12 power-looms, with 
warping, sizing, etc. 



58 

U. S. Import Duties on Strictly Cotton Goods. 

According to the tariff act of March 3, 1883, the follow- 
ing are the import duties on strictly cotton goods : 

UNBLEACHED COTTONS. 

Not over 100 threads to square inch, value not over 8c. 
per square yard, 2|c. per square yard. 

Not over 100 threads to square inch, value over 8c. 
per square yard, 40 per cent. 

Over 100, not over 200, threads to square inch, value 
not over 8c. per square yard, 3c. per square yard. 

Over 100, not over 200, threads to square inch, value 
over 8c. per square yard, 40 per cent. • 

Over 200 threads to square inch, value not over 10c. 
per square yard, 4c. per square yard. 

Over 200 threads to square inch, value over 10c, per 
square yard, 40 per cent. 

BLEACHED COTTONS. 

Not over 100 threads to square inch, value not over 
10c. per square yard, 3^e. per square yard. 

Not over 100 threads to square inch, value over 10c. 
per square yard, 40 per cent. 

Over 100, not over 200, threads to square inch, value 
not over 10c. per square yard, 4c. per square yard. 

Over 100, not over 200, threads to square inch, value 
not over 10c. per square yard, 40 per cent. 

Over 200 threads to square inch, value not over 12c. 
per square yard, 5c. per square yard. 

DYED, COIiOEED, STAINED OE PRINTED COTTONS. 

Not over 100 threads to square inch, value not over 
13c. per square yard, 4|c. per square yard. 

Not over 100 threads to square inch, value not 13c. 
per square yard, 40 per cent. 

Over 100 and not over 200 threads to square inch, 
value not over 13c. per square yard, 5c. per square yard. 

Over 100 and not over 200 threads to square inch, value 
over 13c. per square yard, 40 per cent. 

Over 200 threads to square inch, value not over 15c. 
per square yard, 6c. per square yard. 

Over 200 threads to square inch, value over 15c. per 
square yard, 40 per cent. 

Cotton cloth, the threads of which are incapable of 
being coiinted under a glass, or actually separated, not 
otherwise specified, 35 per cent. 



59 

U. S. Import Duty on Cotton G^alloons, Gimps, Etc. 

Cotton goods, such as galloons, gimj)S, gloves, goring, 
iinhemmed bandkercliiefs (single or in strap), webbing, 
suspenders or braces, and all goods made of cotton, not 
otherwise specified, 35 per cent. 

Cotton damask embroideries, handkerchiefs (hem- 
med), insertings, laces, lace window curtains, trimmings, 
velvet, and cotton hosiery, fashioned, narrowed, or 
shaped wholly or in part by knitting machines or 
frames, or knit by hand, 40 per cent. 
i^»» 

One Pound of Cotton Yarn EeacMng 1,000 Miles. 
An English cotton manufacturing concern some years 
ago produced the finest, that is, the thinnest, cotton yarn 
ever seen — 700s — of which muslin was made. The same 
firm has produced since, yarn of 2,150, which is much 
finer than that of the famous Dacca muslin. A pound 
of the finest Sea Island cotton spun of this fineness 
would be 1,000 miles in length. 

Standard Grain Sacks and Bags. 

One hundred and forty pound jute export sacks 
should be from the best material, double stitched, not 
using less than an equivalent to 40x49-inch mangled or 
crape - finished material, weighing not less than 12 
ounces per yard, of 40 inches in width, or 16 ounces for 
the complete bag. If from starched or sized material, 
the complete bag should not weigh less than 17 ounces. 

Two hundred and eighty pound jute export sacks 
should be from the best material, double stitched, not 
using less than an equivalent to 50x63-inch mangled or 
crape-finished material, weighing not less than 15 ounces 
per yard, of 50 inches in width, or 25 ounces for the 
complete bag. If from starched or sized material, the 
complete bag should weigh not less than 26^ ounces. 

Seamless jute sacks must be from same heft and 
quality of material, etc., but require 4 per cent, less 
material, and may weigh 4 per cent. less. 

One hundred and forty pound cotton export sacks 
should be double stitched, best drill or osnaburg, free 
from starch or sizing, using of drill not less than an 
equivalent to 40x47 inches, or if osnaburg not less than 
37^x51^ inches to material, the complete bag weighing 
not less than 9i ounces. 



GO 

Comparative Expenses of Manufacturing in 1860 and 

1880 

Mr. Edward Atkinson, the well-known statistician, in 
referring to the comparative expenses of cotton manu- 
facturing in the United States in 1860 and 1880, says : 

"While the cost of labor was higher in 1880 than in 
1860, it has been reduced in the finest fabric by the 
greater productive power of the machiner3\ The fabrics 
upon which by far the largest part of the spindles and 
looms of the country are operated may be divided sub- 
stantially into the following classes : 

1. The printing cloth 28 inches wide and 7 yards to 
the pol^nd. The cost of mill labor in making this fabric, 
including the salaries, wages or earnings of every one 
employed, is now less than 1 cent, or half a penny, per 
yard. 

2. The heavy sheeting, 36 inches wide, and the heavy 
drill, 30 inches wide, each weighing from 2| to 3 yards 
to the pound. The cost of mill labor in making these 
fabrics is about 1| cents per yard. 

3. Shirtings and sheetings, 30 to 36 inches wide, Nos. 
20 to 30 yarns, each weighing from 3 to 4 j^ards to the 
pound. The cost of mill labor in these goods is from IJ 
to 2 cents per yard. 

4. The fine sheeting or shirting, from 30 to 40 inches 
wide, Nos. 30 to 40 yarns, weighing from 3 to 4 yards to 
the pound. The cost of mill labor in these goods is 
from 1| to 3 cents per yard 

5. Fabrics of similar kind to the above from 1 to 3 
5'ards wide. 

6. Heavy cotton duck, cotton grain bags, cotton hose 
and other special articles. 

7. Blue denims, stripes, tickings, brown denims and 
dtick, and other heavy colored goods, substantial ging- 
hams, cottonades and other fancy woven fabrics of 
medium and heavy weight. 

These seven classes comprise more than 95 per cent, 
of our cotton fabrics of weight ; to these are to be added 
hiwns, woven fabric of light weight for dresses and spool 
cotton. 

In respect of one-half of these fabrics, being those of 
lieavier grade, our proximity to the cotton field, com- 
puted at not less than half a cent per pound — often three 
quarters — enables the New England manufacturer to 
])iiy 15 to 20 per cent, higher wages, and yet make the 
goods, other things being equal, at the same cost as 
liis competitor in Lancashire, On a large portion of 
other kinds of cotton this advantage in the cost of cot- 
ton is from 10 to 15 per cent. 



61 



The Throstle. 




The above cut represents the front and side views of 
the throstle. Bobbins full of prepared cotton roving 
are placed on the top of the machine. Eollers and 
bobbins and flyers draw out the fibres, elongating and 
attenuating them, and at the same time twisting .them 
tightly into a compact yarn, well adapted for the warp 
or long threads of woven goods. In the technical lan- 
guage of a cotton mill, the throstle is used for the hard, 
coarse yarns up to about No. 40. 



^« »' 



Pabrios Produced from Different Varieties of Ootton. 

According to a well-known authority who has closely 
studied the manufacture of cotton in all its various stages, 
in India, England, the United States and other coun- 
tries, " the finest qualities of cotton (the Sea Island class) 
are made into lace and muslin of the most beautiful 
texture. 

"Other qualities — Egyptian, New Orleans and 'Bow- 
eds' (Bowed Georgia, etc.) — are made into cambrics 
and calicoes for printing, as well as into shirtings, 
sheetings and fustians, and, when mixed with the bet- 
ter kinds of waste, into bed covers and heavy fabrics. 

"But East Indian cotton is rarely at present used 
alone, except for the lowest purposes, because of its 
general inferiority, and it is generally disposed in adul- 
teration." 



62 

Cost and Selling Prices of Various Kinds of Ameri- 
can Cottons for a Series of Years. 

The followine: tabular statements of the sellicg prioeg 
of various kinds and classes of cottcns. together with 
the labor cost involved in the production of the same, 
are from the United States Census reports of 1880. They 
have been prepared by leading manufacturers, and are 
actual transcripts from their books. 



A leading firm gives the following selling prices of 
sheetings and bags in 1870, 1875 and 1880 : 

SHEETINGS AND BAGS. 

16 ounce 
40-m Sheet- 11-in Sheet- l-hush 

ing, per yd. ing per yd. Bags, each. 

Gents. Gents. Gents. 

1870 ., . . . 15 37 81 

1875 12 27 26 

1880 9 28 10 

The cost of labor in producing the same at the three 
different periods is given in the annexed statement : 

16 ounce 

40-m Sheet- ll-in Sheet- 2-hush 

ing, per yd, ing, pei" yd. Bag i^, each. 

Gents. Gents. Gents. 

1870 03 46-100 ,06 48-100 .06 7-100 

1875 03 20-100 .05 75-100 .05 

1880 0210-100 .03 28-100 .03 11-100 

As illustrating the percentage of wages to total cost 
of the production of such goods in the years named, the 
following showing is presented : 

■40-m 11-in 16 ounce 

Sheeting, Sheeting, 1-hu. bag$, 

per cent. per cent. per cent. 

1870 29 24 20 

1875 35 31 26 

1880 ; 82 25 19 

WIDE SHEETING. 

The accompanying table from the same firm also 
gives the^selliug price,. labor cost and percentage of 
wages to cost per yard for wide sheeting in 1875-80 : 

Ge7its. 

Selling price 0.06% 

Labor cost 0.01 21-100 

Percentage of wages to cost 0.02 15-100 



f.3 
SHEETINGS, DBILIjIMG AND BATTING. 

An Indiana cotton manufacturing company gives the 
following as the selling prices of their sheetings, drill- 
ing and batting for the years named : 



1875. 
1880. 



Sheeting, 
pryd. Cts. 

.09 

.07% 



Dr illing, 
pr yd. Gts. 
.09% 
.08 



Batting, 

pr yd. Ots. 

.10 

.10 



GEAIN BAGS. 

As regards the selling prices, cost, etc., of bags, a 
Kentucky bag manufacturer furnishes the following : 

Selling vrice. • Labor cost. > 

Grain Picking Grain Picking 

sacks, sacks sacks. sacks, 

per 100. per 100. per lOO. per 100. 

1870 $33 00 $— $6 50 $— 

1875 25 00 40 00 6 00 9 00 

1880..; aO 00 35 00 5 50 8 00 



CHEVIOTS, QUILTS, ETC. 

Another concern in Kentucliy also gives the following 
statement of the labor co^t of various classes of cottons 
in 1870, 1875 and 1880 : 







Crochet 


Marseilles 


Basket 




Gingharn,s, 


quilts. 


quilts. 


cheviots. 




per yd. 


each. 


each. 


per yd. 


1860 


17 








1865 










1870 


14 


$2 00 






1875 


10 


1 65 


$3 60 


12% 
10% 


1880 


10 


1 12 


2 50 



SEEKSUCKEES, FANCY DUCK, ETC. 



A leading cotton factory in Maine sends the annexed 
statement of the selling prices of ginghams, quilts, 

cheviots, etc. : 

Dress Basket Fancy 

Ginghams. goods. sheeting. duck. 

yard. yard. yard. yard. 

1870 04.83 

1875 04 03 ... 04 83 

1880 t'3 86 04.24 03.69 03 22 

Cheviot Marseilles 

Cottons. Seersuckers. quilts. <ntilts. 

yard. yard. each. each. 

1870 05 99 07.23 32 45 

1875 06 02 .... 37.0? M 46.72 

1880 04.06 04.43 26.28 1.03.04 



6i 
SHIRTINGS AND SHEETINGS. 

Another leading cotton manufacturing establtebment 
in Maine gives the following synopsis of the selling 
prices, etc., of the shirtings and sheetings which It pro- 
duces, covering a number of years • 

Selling price ■ 

Shirting, per yard, Sheeting, per yard. 
36- w, 40- in. 42- in. 48- in. 

1870 $0.14 $0.15 — — 

1875 11% 12 $0.14 $0.15 

1880 08 09 13 13 

Labor cost ^ 

Shirting per yard. Shirting per yard. 
36-in, 40-m. 42-in. 48-in. 

1870 $02 71 $03.11 — 

1875.. , 02.28 02.50 $02 71 $08.04 

1880 01.69 01.69 01.76 02 08 

' Percentage of wages to cost, > 

Shirting Sheeting 

36- inch, 40- inc/i, ^1-inch. 48-inc/i. 

per cent, per cent pei' cent, per cent. 

1870 22 22 — — 

1875 26 26 26 26 

1880 25 25 25 26 



DRILIiING, DYED DUCK, ETC. 

From a cotton manufacturing concern in Maryland, 
which has been in existence sine 3 1808, making standard 
lines of sheetings, twills and duclis, the annexed tabular 
statement i^ presented : 



1830 .... 
183t ... 
18 K> 


Fonr-yard 
s fleeting 
pr yd. 

$0.08 


standard Thre 

sheeting dri 

pr yd. pr 

$0.10^4 

12 

09 

06 

08 

05% 

06 

Cost »f labor pel- 

yard, cotton cloth 

weighing ? yds 

to lb. 

$0.03.26 
02.58 
02.03 
01.88 
0173 
02.09 
02.40 
08.36 


e-yard 
lling 
yd 

Pet 

of 

to 

cottc 


Dye 

due] 

pr y 

'centai 

wagi 

cost ( 

m clot 

28.50 


d 

k 
d. 


1845 . . . . 
185U . . 

1855 

1860 . . . . 
1865 .... 

1830 


Mil '« 


7e 

"S 

^f 
h. 


1835 . 




2610 


1840 .... 
1845 

1850 ... 
1855 




22.75 
27.05 

2966 


1860 .... 
1865 .... 




23.4-i 



65 
SEIililNa PRICES ( F PRINT CLOTH FOR A SERIES OP 

YEARS. 

The latter firm also gives the selling price, labor cost, 
and percentage of wages to cost of a yard of 64x64: piiut 
cloths covering the same periods of time, as below : 

Selling price Labor Percentage 

per yard, cost per yard. of wages 

Gents. Cents. to cost. 

1855 05.20 01.45 35 

1860 05.13 01.35 30 

1865 12.27 01.45 15 

1870 09.33 01.96 28 

1875 05.36 01.75 31 

1880 04.40 01.28 32 

The foregoing establishment worked their employees 
11 hours per day fom 1853 to 1859, and since that time to 
1880, 10% hours per day, and paying them cash monthly. 



EXTRA 64X64 CiOTHS. 



The foregoing is supplemented by the following ad- 
ditional showing from a well-known print cloth factory 
in the same State, which produces extra 64x64 cloths : 



Selling price, 
per yard. 

Gents. 


Labor cost, 
per yard. 

Gents. 


Percentage. 

ofioages 

to cost 

per cent. 

Cents. 


06 8 
05.6 
04.6 


01.75 
01.43 
01.01 


27.5 
28.5 
32.5 



1870 

1875 

1880 . , . . 

The manufacturing concern last noted paid their 
employees cash and worked them only ten hours per 
day. 



COST OF COTTON IN A YARD OF PRINT CLOTH. 

From a New Ham pb ire print cloth manufacturing 
Arm, which was established away back in the forties 
and which produces 64x64 cloths in grey, using warp 
No. 30 and filling No. 38, we have the following state- 
ment of the cost of the cotton necessary to make a yard 
of 64x64 print cloth : 

Cost. 
Gents. 

1855 01.98 

1860 02.35 

1865 07.71 

1870 04.31 

1875 03.14 

1880 01.96 



66 
A POPTJIiAR BBAND OP TIOKIN&. 

Another cotton manutacturing establiahment in New 
Hampshire, makiner tickings, denims, cotton flannels, 
shirtings, stripes and ginghams, gives the following ex- 
hibit of the labor cost per yard for making one of the 
most popular brands of ticking produced in this coun- 
try, for two periods, with twenty-flve years intervening : 

Per yard. 

1855 -• 02.78 

1880 02.42 

This establishment was founded in 1826, and states 
that the wages of their employees x^ere 25 per cent, 
lower in 1855 than they paid in 1880, and that by the 
utilization of improved machinery they were enabled to 
accomplish the reduction in the labor cost as above in 
1880. 



SELLING PRIOES OF TICKING, ETC. 

Tiie same factory also gives the subjoined list of the 
selling prices, labor cost, etc., per yard of ticking and 
gingham which it produced in the years named : 

Percentage 
of wages 

Selling Drioe. > Labor cost ^ to cost 

TicWg, Gingh'm. Tick'g G-ingKm. ofVk'g, 

p r yd. per yd. per yd, per yd pe cent. 

1845.. 14% .... 08.97 ... 28 

1850.. 14% .... 02.38 .... 25 

1855.. 14% ... 02.87 ... 26 

1860 15% .... 02.41 .... 20 

1865.. 77 .... 02.65 10 

1870.. 31% 17 04.28 04 44 19 

1875.. 21.16 10.89 04 03 43 22 

1880.. 16 08 02.42 02.96 aS 



YARNS, TWINES, ETC. 

A cotton factory in Missouri, which makes sheetings, 
yarns, twines, batts and bags, which have large sale in 
the West and Southwest, furnishes the subjoined list of 
the selling prices of sheetings, yarns, twines, batts and 
bags for a series of years : 



Sheet Ya7~ns. Twines. Batts. Bags. 

Yd. Lb. Lb. Lbs. each. 

Cents. Cents. Cents. . Cents. Cents. 

1860 09 22 19 10@12 20 

1865 30 90 40@45 65 

1870 16 40 35 20@25 30 

1875 08 21 20 11@14 21 

1880 08% aO 19 G9@U 30 



67 




68 
GINGHAMS AND COTTON DEESS GOODS. 

A well-known cotton manufacturing concern in Con- 
necticut, which was established in 1824, and which has 
been in successful operation ever since, says that from 
"1830 to 1855 all classes of their operatives worked 12 
hours per day ; from 1855 to 1865 11% hours, and from 
1865 to 1880. 10 to 11 hours per ddy." 

This same concern also gives the following selling 
prices of ginghams and cotton dress goods for a series 
of years : 



Year. 

1845 

1850 

1855 .... 


Ging- 
ham <. 
Pryd. 

Cents. 

12 

12 

12 


Dress 

Goods. 
Pryd. 

Gents. 


Year. 

1865 

1870 

1875 

1880 


Ging- 
l.ams. 
Pr yd. 
Gents. 

20 

11 

09 

10 


Dress 

Goods. 

Pryd. 

Cents, 


1860 


14 


129. 



According to the statement of this concern, "the labor 
cost for the production of ginghams 1877 was 3.44c per 
yard, and of cotton drees goods, 8.78c per yard, and 
wages were 44 per cent, of the total cost of ginghams 
for that year." 



BBOWN SHEETING. 

A large and well-known cotton mill in the State of 
Connecticut makes the following transcript of the sell- 
ing price, labor cost, etc., of brown sheeting, the brand 
of which is very popular, and largely sold in all mar- 
kets : 

Selling Price Labor cost Percentage 

b'wn sheeting Vwn sheetiiig of wages 

per yard per yard to cost of 

Gents. Gents. b'lon sheMing^ 

1864-5 54 .02 54-100 48 

1870 11 .02 36-100 " 38 

1875 08 .01 90-100 25 

1880 06 .0121-100 27 



SPOOIi OOTTOK. 

Of spool cotton, a celebrated oonoern in the New 
England States, which makes several varieties, 
gives the folllowing range of the selling prices 
of the same per dozen for a period of years : 

Selling price. 

1860 40to$l 75 

1865 80 to 110 

1870 72to 80 

1875 55 to 72 

1880 .56 



69 
f/HITE COTTONS. 

A ootton factory est iblished in Massachusetts since 
1823, which worked its employes twelve hours per day 
from 1845 to 1859; eleven hours per day from 1859 to 
1874, and ten hours per day from 1874 to 1880, mak- 
ing use of the most improved machinery dating the 
periods noted, submits the subjoined statement of the 
selling prices, etc., of white cottons : 

SELLING PRICES AND LABOR COST. 

Selling price Labor cost % 

ver yard. per lb. per yard. per lb. 

1845 .... $0.01.517 $0.05.305 

1850 .... 01.649 06.290 

1855.. $0.07.81 $0.25.58 01.583 05 310 

1860.. 08.55 29.75 01.337 04.330 

1865.. 25.70 1.12.00 02.562 08.605 

1870 . 14.30 50.00 02.884 04 615 

1875.. 11 38.00 02.259 07.008 

1880.. 09.50 28.30 01.465 04 217 

The above concern also states that latterly, through 
the use of improved machinery, it has not only in- 
creased its output and reduced the cost of the same 12 
t o 15 per cent., but has also diminished the number of 
its employees 10 to 12 per cent. 



PRINTING CLOTHS. 

An old and prominent print-cloth and print-manufac- 
turing concern in the same State furnishes the follow- 
ing interesting list of the labor cost per yard of print 
cloths for every five years iotervening between 1850 and 
1880 : 

PRICES. 

1830 $.01.74 

2855 01.56 

I860 01.40 

1 865 02 . 65 

1870 02 02 

1875 01 .44 

1880 00.87 

HOURS OP LABOR. 

The hours of labor per day of the employees of this 
concern, during the time named, were as follows : 1830 
to 1845, 12 1-6 hours; 1850 to 1855, 11 54-60 hours; 1855 to 
1860, 11 34 60 hours ; 1860 to 1870, 11 hours ; 1870 to 1880, 10 
hours. 



70 
OOTTON CLOTH. 

An establishmeiat in Coflneoticut submits the follow- 
ing exhibit of the labor cost, etc., of cotton cloth, since 
-1855 : 





Labor cost of 


Percentage of 






cotton cloth 


7iumber yarn 


Pe)'centage of 




per lb. 


used. 


wages to cost 




Gents. 


Gents. 


of cotton cloth 


1855.... 


12 22-100 


30.00 


42.70 


1860 


09 6-100 


25.36 


39 20 


1865 ... 


. . . : 12 23-100 


34.72 


15.45 


1870 


22 2-100 


42.88 


40.10 


1875 


13 95-100 


35 21 


38.70 


1880 


.... 09 87-100 


25.37 


36.70 



The latter Arm also state that the improvements in 
machinery, in pickers, cards, winders, railway heads, 
drawing frames, speeders, spinning frames, mules, 
spoolers, warpers, creels, cylinders, looms, etc., of late 
years have been very marlied and have considerably 
lessened the general cost of production. The same es- 
tablishment also says wages have averaged about 25 
per cent, of the total cost of production, and divides the 

latter up as follows : 

Goit.per cent, 

Kaw material 65 

Labor 25 

Golcrlng 10 



OOTTON WINDOW SHADE OLOTH. 

A well-known Delaware cotton manufacturer gives 
the subjoined sellinsf prices for cotton cloth in the grey, 
39 inches wide, counting 52 by 50 picks and weighing 6% 
yards to the pound, which is bleached and starched for 

window makers use : 

Selling price per yd. Gts. 

1860. 08 

1865 25% 

1870 09 7-16 

1875 06% 

X880 oey^ 



PLAIDS, DRILLS, BTO. 

A cotton factory still further South— in the State of 
Georgia— submits the following table of selling prices of 
their sheetings, plaids, etc., for a series of years : 



1870 

1876. . . . 


4-4 sheeting 
per yai'd. 
Gents. 

14 
09 


Standard 
plaids. 

pel' yard. 
Gents'. ' 

19 

10% 
09% 


Ball 
Thread 
Gents. 
65% 
40 


1880 


-07% 


28 



71 




o 

Pi 



72 

Cotton Manufacturing in Lowell, Mass., in 1835. 

The following is taken from a letter dated Lowell, 
Mass., April 20th, 1835, written by Kirk Boott, the 
wealthy merchant of Boston, after whom the Boott 
Cotton Mills are named : 

" The Merrimack (7o.— Capital, $1,500,000; have exten- 
sive print works and five cotton mills. They run 
34,432 spindles, 1,253 looms, give employment to 1,321 
females and 437 males, and make 172,000 yards clotli 
per week. 

*• The Hamilton Co.— Capital, $900,000 ; have large 
printing establishment and three cotton mills. They 
run about 19,000 spindles, 600 looms, employ about 800 
females and 200 males, and make 78,000 yards of prints 
and drillings p«r week. 

" The Appleton Co.— Capital, $500,000; run two mills, 
between 10,000 and 11,000 spindles, 350 looms, employ 
475 females, 70 males, and make 80,000 yards of No. 14 
sheetings and shirtings per week. 

•' The Lowell Co. — Capital, $500,000; manufacture cot- 
ton, carpets, rugs, negro cloths, etc., of a very superior 
quality. They run 4,500 or 5,000 spindles in their cot- 
ton mills, 140 cotton and 68 carpet looms, employ 330 
females, 150 males, and manufacture in the aggregate 
about 43,000 yards per week. 

•• The Suffolk Co.— Capital, $450,000; run two mills in 
the manufacture of No. 14 drillings, with 10,240 spindles, 
350 looms, give employment to 460 females, 70 males, 
and make 90,000 yards per week. 

" The Tremont Co.— Capital, $500,000; run two mills, 
11,000 spindles, 400 looms, employ 450 females and 80 
males, and make 120,000 yards of No. 14 sheetings and 
shirtings per week. 

" T/ie iaiorence Co.— Capital, $1,200,000; went into 
operation since either of the above. They run at present 
four cotton mills for the manufacture of sheetings and 
shirtings, Nos. 14 to 30, 37 to 41 inches wide." 



Cleaning Cotton by Hand. 
In early times cotton was cleaned from its seeds, etc., 
b}'^ hand, a method, which while it was wholly imper- 
fect, caused also a considerable loss of the fibre. 



73 

Equipment of a Modern Cotton Factory. 

The following requirements of a modern cotton factory 
in the way of equipment are given by a British manu- 
facturing authority: 

Condensing engine, cylinder 37 inches diameter; 
stroke of piston, 7 feet; volume of piston space, 53.6 
cubic feet; average pressure of steam, 16.73 pounds 
per square inch; revolutions, 17 per minute; friction 
of engine and shafting (indicated), 4.75 pounds per 
square of piston; indicated horse-power, 125; total 
power =: 1; available deducting friction = 717. 

(The foregoing has reference to an English mill for 
driving 22,060 hand mule spindles, with preparation, 
and 200 looms, with common sizing.) 

Remakes. - Each additional horse-power will drive 
305 hand-mule spindles, with preparation ; 
Or 230 self-acting, ' 
Or 104 throstle, 
Or 10.5 looms, with common sizing. 

Including preparation : 

1 throstle spindle = 3 hand-mule, or 2.25 self-act- 
ing, spindles. 
1 self-acting spindle = 1.2 hand-mule spindles. 

Exclusive of preparation, taking only the spindle: 

1 throstle spindle = 3.5 hand-mule, or 2.56 self- 
acting, spindles. 
1 self-acting spindle = 1.375 hand-mule spindles. 

The throstles are the common spring, 34 twist, for 
power-loom weaving; the spindles 4,000 times per min- 
ute. The self-acting mules are one-half spring, 36's 
weft, spindles revolving 4,800; the other half spring, 36's 
twist, spindles revolving 5,200. The hand-mules spring 
about equal quantities of 36's weft and twist. Weft 
spindles, 4,700, and twist spindles 5,000 revolutions. 
Average breadth of looms 37 inches (weaving 37 inch 
cloth), making 123 picks per minute. All common cot- 
tons about 60 reed, Stockport count, and 68 picks to the 
inch. No power consumed by sizing When the yarn 
is dressed, instead of sized, one horse-power cannot 
drive so many looms, as the dressing machine will 
absorb .17 to .14 of the power. 



74 

English Cotton Goods of Standard Make in 1800, 
1830, and 1846. 
The English cotton goods of all standard makes at the 
commencement of this century comprised prints, mus- 
lins, corduroys, fustians, sheetings, shirtings, twills 
and ginghams. In 1830 the records give madapolams, 
tanjibs, domestics, jaconets, gauze leno, figured muslin, 
splits and velveteens. In 1846 there were chronicled 
lawns, books, nainsooks, figured counterpanes ; and in 
1864, brilliante, chambrey, blue mottle, satin checks, 
in addition to previously mentioned goods, from which 
list the absence of dhooties, turkey reds, Turkish towels 
and cloths of later origin will be noted. 



Hindoo or East Indian Cottons. 
Biaz is a cotton material resembling linen, manufac- 
tured in Central Asia to a considerable extent, both for 
native use and exportation to Russia. There are three 
sorts of it: the best, or Bokharian; the medium, or 
Khivan, and an inferior variety manufactured at 'JTash- 
kend. The Bokharian biaz is brought to the bazars 

and purchased by dealers for Russia. It is sold in 
pieces from 12J to 16J yards in length and 10^ inches in 
breadth. The Tashkend biaz is slightly inferior in 
quality to the Bokharian. A blue biaz called tendel, or 
huyak, dyed with indigo, is also exported from Bok- 
hara, Khiva and Tushkend to Russia. 



Tariff Kevision on American Cottons in 1883. 
The tariff revision of 1883 made a heavy cut in the 
duties on cottons, the cotton goods schedules being re- 
duced from 55 per cent, on the lower grade of unbleached 

goods or cloth containing less than 100 threads per 
square inch, to 23 per cent, on bleached goods exceed- 
ing over 200 threads per square inch. On cotton warp 
yarns or thread the reduction ranged fron 16 67-100 to 
33 33-100 per cent., according to the value of the yarn. 



Selling Prices of American Cottons and Prints in 1827, 
"In 1827 Lowell, Mass., had six cotton mills, four 
stories high, 155 feet by 44, containing 25,000 spindles, 
and about 150 looms, in which were made in 1826 
5,042,408 yards of cotton cloth, weighing 1,045,386 
pounds, from 1,176,082 pounds of raw cotton. The 
numbers of yarn were 22, 26, 30 and 40. There were 
two mills for twilled and four for plain goods. There 
were employed 12,000 persons in the mills — nine-tenths 
of whom were females— 20 from 12 to 14 years of age. 
Daily wages average 50c., the minimum being 37Jc. and 
the maximum $2. About 2,500,000 yards of cottons were 
annually printed, and the residue sold bleached. The 
average value of the prints was about 18c., and of the 
bleached goods 12c. to 13c. per yard." — Kirk BootCs 
Letter to Matthew Carey, Oct. 25, 1827. 



Cotton Manufacturing in Providence, K. I, in 1809. 
**In 1809 seventeen cotton mills were in operation 
within the town of Providence and its vicinity, work- 
ing 14,296 spindles, and using 640,000 pounds of 
cotton, which yielded 510,000 pounds of yarn. About 
1,000 looms were employed in weaving cotton cloth. 
The cloths manufactured were bed-ticking, stripes and 
checks, ginghams, shirtings and counterpanes. They 
were superior to the imported goods of the same kind." 
— Benedict's History of Rhode Island, published in 1813. 



Loss of Length in Twisting Cotton Yarn. 
Yarn must always lose a littte length in twisting, the 
loss being proportionate to the thickness of the yarn, 
and the hardness of the twist, and therefore, of course, 
varying with every count of spinning woolen and wor- 
sted yarns. If two bobbins of the same counts are 
twisted together, the count will, of course, become half 
of what it was before, just as the weight will be double. 
Thus, two-folds 40's is equal to single 20's, not allowing 
for running up of the twist. When different counts are 
twisted together, to find the count of the combination 
multiply the numbers by the two counts together and 
divide the product by the sum of the two added to- 
gether. 



76 




77 

Duties on Cotton Yarns in Foreign Countries. 

In Russia the duties on cotton yarns range from £1 
15s. 6d. per cwt., unbleached. No. 45 and below, to £3 
9s. for twisted yarns of two or more threads. In Ger- 
many they run from 6s. Id. per cwt. for numbers up to 
17, single, bleached, up to £1 15s. 7d. for cable twist 
and sewing thread. In Holland all kinds are free; in 
Turkey all pay 8 per cent, ad valorem; in Sweden, Nor- 
way and Denmark the tarifls are simple, and, save for 
sewing thread in Sweden, low; the same is the case for 
Belgium. In France the tariff is very complicated, and 
Very high in some instances. It ranges from 6s. Id. 
per cent, to £7 6s. 4d., the latter being the rate for un- 
bleached twisted, of above 170,500 metres to the half 
millogramme; single unbleached, twisted unbleached, 
bleached, dyed or clouded, warped (bleached, un- 
bleached and dyed), and thread in balls or reels, are all 
different categories. In Portugal the duties begin at £1 
10s. lOd. and go up to £4 4s. 7d. ; in Spain they run 
from £1 10s. up to £3 lis. 2d. ; in Italy from 7s. 4d. to 
£2 4s. 8d. ; in Austria from 6s. id. to £1 15s. 7d. ; in 
Switzerland from 5^d. to 14s. 3d., and in Greece from 
19s. 3d. to £2 8s. Although the United States tariff has 
not such a minute classification as that of France, it i-e 
even more remarkable in another direction. The duty 
on thread and yarn varies, not with the length of a thread 
to a particular weight, or with the bleaching or dyeing, 
twisting or otherwise, but with the value. Where the 
yarn does not exceed 25c. a pound in value, the duty is 
£2 6s. 8d. per cwt., which in the most favorable condi- 
tions possible would be 50 per cent., and might be 75, 
80 or 90 per cent. The duty goes on rising as the 
value per pound rises, until for thread or yarn of the 
value of 80c. to $1 per pound the duty is £11 4s. per 
cwt., which is about 50 per cent, under the best circum- 
stances. About a dollar per pound the duty is 50 per 
cent, ad valorem. 



Value of American Cotton Crop of 1889. 
It is estimated that the cotton crop of the South 
of 1888-9 was worth anywhere from $325,000,000 to 
$350,000,000. 



78 

European Exports of Cotton Yarns and Cotton Tissues. 
The following table shows the exports of cotton 
yarns and cotton tissues from the principal Euro- 
pean countries Austria-Hungary, Germany, France, 
Great Britain — during the years comprised between 1881 
and 1885, inclusive : 

Articles, ^^^l^^ry. Germany. France. g^^f^ 

Francs. Francs. Francs. Francs. 

Cotton Yarn. 

1881 2,000,000 42,000,000 2,500,000 394,700,000 

1882 2,200,000 40,200,000 2,700,000 385,700,000 

1883 2,500,000 32,000,000 2,200,000 405,000,000 

1884 2,200,000 28,000,000 2,200,000 416,500,000 

1885 2, 200, 000 23, 000, 000 3, 200, 000 355, 700, 000 

Cotton Tissues. 

1881 18,500,000 148,200,000 88,500,000 1,952,000,000 

1882 16,200,000 183,800,000 97,700,000 1,888,500,000 

1883 20,500,000 180,700,000 89,600,000 1,887,200,000 

1884 18,000,000 192,500,000 89,200,000 1,766,700,000 

1885 17,000,000 188,200,000 102,200,000 1,652,000,000 

■^«^ - ■ — - 

Old and New Cotton Mills. 

The erection of a cotton mill or factory at the present 
time is on a far more comprehensive scale than in the 
early days of manufacturing. The new cotton mills, 
covering large areas and constructed on the principle of 
good light, temperature and ventilation, are as widely 
diJBferent from the old style as the modern house is from 
the dwelling of the mediaeval age. The old mills were 
almost wholly of a narrow type, while many of the tex- 
tile establishments now erected vary from 300 to 125 
feet in width, being necessary in many cases for the 
high stories characteristic of the present building age. 

Perhaps the most noticeable difference in the modern 
mill structure, to the ordinary observer, is the unusual 
facilities for natural light. Light from combustion is 
comparatively poor and costly. In many of the weaving 
departments of mills built years ago and poorly win- 
dowed, the constant use of gas or oil for lighting pur- 
poses so overheats the air that the ordinary operative 
loses physical vigor. In a wide ujill, with high stories, 
the windows must be necessarily large in order to secure 
good natural light, occupying at least 40 per cent, or 
more of th)^ side walls, and leaving but little width of 
the brick work between them. 



79 

Price of Britisli Cottons Exported to United States 
and other Countries in 1833, 
The following statement shows the average declared 

price per piece and per yard, and yards in piece, of 
British cottons exported to United States in 1833. 

Average Averarge 

Length of price per price per 

each piece. piece. yard. 

Description. s. d. s. d. 

Dimity 60 yards. 26 3 5^ 

Quiltings and Eibs . . . . 60 " 52 6 10* 

Lawns and Lenos 20 " 10 10 6^ 

Calicoes, Printed 28 •' 11 llj 5J 

Calicoes, Plain 24 " 7 4 3^ 

Cambrics and Muslins . 20 •* 10 f» 6^ 

Cotton and Linen, 

Mixed 40 '•' 11 4 3| 

Ginghams 20 " 10 5 6^ 

Imitation Shawls 12 " 6 3 6| 

Nankeens 50. " 17 8^ 4i 

Velveteens 60 " 52 6 10^ 

Lace 40 *' 10 10 SJ 

Tecks, etc 50 " 25 5 6^ 

Damasks 36 *' 24 9 8| 

Counterpanes 6 H each 

Shawls Dozen 6 3 6} 

Tapes " 19 2 

Hosiery " * 11 lOJ pair. 

— Official Custom Returns of Great Britain 



Prices of American Cotton Goods in 1789-91. 

According to the statement of Almy & Brown, of 

Providence, R. I., who were among the pioneers of cotton 

manufacturing in this country, the following were the 

selling prices of the goods produced by them from June 

6, 1789. to Oct. 15, 1791 : 

s. d. s. d. 

Corduroys 3 6 to 4 per yard. 

Boyal Ribs,Denims, etc 3 to 4 

Cottonets. 2 6 to 3 

Jeans 2 to 2 6 

Fustians 1 8 to 2 

Thickets 4 to 4 4 

Fancy Cords 3 6 to 4 

Velvirets 4 to 4 4 



80 

Average Selling Price of Ordinary Plain Cotton Cloth, in 
England from 1814 to 1833. 
The average selling price throughout the year of one 
piece of calico (plain cotton cloth, 24 yards to piece), in 
Manchester, England, from 1814 to 1833, according to 
the British official returns, and the approximate value 
per yard, in U. S. money of to-day, are given belovv^. 



Years. 


Average price per 

piece in 

Manchester, Eng. 

£. s. d. 


value in U. S. 

currency of 

to-day, per yd. 

Cents. 


1814 


1 


4 
19 


7 
8| 


25.58 


1815 





20.54 


1816 





16 


^ 


17.37 


1817 





16 


1 


16.75 


1818.. - 





16 


^ 


17.37 


1819 


, . 


13 


9 


13.91 


1820 





12 


U 


12.62 


1821... . 





9 


Si 


9.75 


1822 





9 


3i 


9.66 


1823 





8 


Hi 


9.29 


1824 





8 


5| 


8.77 


1825 





8 


4 


8.77 


1826 


, 


6 


3^ 


6.52 


1827 





6 


6 


6.75 


1828 





6 


51 


6.68 


1829 





5 


8 


5.54 


1830 





6 


3i 


6.52 


1831 


.'... 


6 


2^ 


6.43 


1832 





5 
6 


8 
2 


5.54 


1833 





6.41 



Price of British Printed Cotton Cloth Exported to U. S. 

from 1827 to 1832. 

British Customs statistics give the average declared 

price per yard of printed cotton cloth exported to the 

United States in the years named, as follows: 

Equal in U. S. 
Price per yard. curr-^ncy of 

Declared value. to-day, per yd. 
Years. Pence. Cents. 

1827 9 18 

1828 8| m 

1829 9^ 19 

1830 8" 16 

1831 7^ 15 

1832 6" 12 



81 

The Cotton Power Loom, 

The machine required for weaving plain cotton cloth in which 
each end of weft and twist is interwoven alternately, and on the 
face of which no figure is shown, is simple. The warp yarn is con- 
tained on a beam, the weft is i)laced in a shuttle, and the loom con- 
sists of the necessary frame work and mechanism for holding the 
warp in the required position, passing the weft between alternate 
warp threads. 

A general view of the cotton power loom is given in the follow- 
ing cut: 




FKUNT VIEW OF POWER LOOM FOR WEAVING PLAIN COTTON CLOTH. 

In the process of weaving it is necessary to hold the warp some- 
what tightly, each portion at the same tension, and to obtain this 
condition the cloth is pulled forward by the taking-up roller as it 
is woven, but the warp is held back by the friction of weighted 
chains or ropes on the collars of the beam. The warp passes up- 
wards from the beam, over the back rest, and thence to the back of 
the healds; between the back rest and healds are the lease rods — a 
large one, with a smaller rod nearer the healds. By means of these 
rods the warp is separated into equal portions,, two ends passing 
alternately over or under the thick rod; those passing over the 
thick one also passing under the thin rod. The rule commonly 
observed for four healds is to have the ends passing the first and 
third heald over the thin rod, and those drawn through the second 
and fourth, over the thick rod, and consequently under the thin one. 
The first heald is the one nearest the front of the loom; that is, 1, 3, 
2, 4, and applies to plain cotton cloth, although the first and second 
healds are worked as one, and the third and fourth together. 

Respecting the two ends which pass together at the lease rods, 
the one through the front heald is to the left of the one through the 
third heald; whilst with the other coui^les the end through the more 
forward heald is to the left of the other. 



t82 I 
As will be seen by looking at the accompanying illustration, 
which gives the back view of a power loom for weaving plain cot- 
ton cloth, the healds are suspended on each side of the heald-roller, 
A, by means of straps and cords, wliicb are shown in the cut. 




BACK VIEW OF A POWER LOOM FOR WEAVING PLAIN COTTON CLOTH 

The portion of the heald roller supporting the back healds is larger 
than for the front ones ; this is to make the former when lifted 
make the shed at the same angle as the front healds. Below are 
seen the crauk shaft, B, and the tappet shaft, C, driven from it at 
exactly half the speed. The latter shaft bears the picking plates, 
H, and shedding taj^pets, K. The slay, supported by the slay- 
sword, D, on the rocking shaft, is shown also. It carries the reed 
at E, held in position by the slay cap, F. The back rest at G, over 
which the warj^ passes, and the weight levers and driving pulleys 
are also noticeable parts. The cloth is woven pick by pick, and the 
whole action of the loom may be confined in repetitious of the 
operations contingent on putting in one pick. Supposing the warp 
to be in position and the machine in running order, the first move- 
ment is to open the warj) into two ijarts, and is called shedding; the 
second is to pass the shuttle through the opening thus made, 
called picking; and thirdly, to beat up the weft close to the pick 
last put in — technically, to fill the cloth. In addition to these, aux- 
iliary movements are taking i^lace for winding on the woven cloth, 
keeping it distended and checking the motion of the loom in case 
of accident. 

EXPLANATORY NOTE. 

Beam is the flanged roller on which the warp yarn is wound. 
Counts.—^ system of indicating the fineness of yarn. 
Fell. — ^The edge of the fabric (in the loom) which has most re- 
cently been woven. 

nmld^^' Eu"' [ '^^^ arrangement of leashes. 
I'ick — The insertion of a thread of weft, 
Sftvage. — The sides of a fabric. 

slieAl. — The opening made in the warp for the* passage of the 
tih-iitlo. 

Slaij. — Lay or lathe. 
Tappet. — Scotch for wiper 



March. 


June, 


Oct. 


1860. 


1887. 


1889 


Cents. 


Cents 


Cents 


9 






^y. 


7 


6% 


8% 


7^4, 


7 



83 

Prices of Oottons in 1859, 1860, 1887 and 1889. 

1 ho first column gives the jobbers' prices in Maich, 
1859 ; the second column, jobbers' prices in March, 1860; 
the third column, agents' pric< s for June, 1887; and the 
fourth columD, jobbers' prices for the month of October, 
1889. The omissions of prices in the third and fourth 
columns in so- e instances are owing to the fact 
that there has been a change in the tickets or qualities 
of the goods, and in some cases the goods are no longer 
made. 

BROWN SHEETINGS AND SHIRTINGS. 

March, 
1859. 
Cents. 

AgawamF, 36-in lY^ 

Amoskeafi: A, 36-i.j 9 

Appteton A, 36-ln 9 

Atlantic A, 36-iii. 9 

Granito vilie EE , 36-iu 8^ 

Great Falls E, 36-iu 7% 

Indian Head, 36-in ... . ... 9 

Indian Head, 30-in 7 

Indian Head, lO-in 11% 

Massachusetts A, 36-in .... 7^ 

Nashua K, 36-ia 8% 

Nashua O, 30-iu 7 

Pepperell E,39.in 9^^ 

Pepperell E, 36-in 8% 

Pepperell O, 33-ln. . - 8^ 

Pepperell N, 30-ia 7% 

Pocasset Canoe, 36-in 9 

StarkA, 36-ii 9 

Waltham, 39-in 9% 

Waltham, 51-in. 12 

Waltham, 58-in 14% 

Waltham, 77-in 20 

Waltham, 87-in 23 

Waltham. 97-in 26 

Indian Orchard W, 33-m . ... 7% 

Indian Orchard B, 30-in, .... 8% 

BLEACHED SHEETINGS AND SHIRTINGS. 

Amoskeag, 32-in 8% 

Amoskeag, 37-iQ 10% 

Amoskeag, 42-in 11% 

Amoskeag, 46-in 12% 

AmoslJeag Z 

Blackstone A, 36-iu 10 

BoottR 30-in 6% 

BoottS... 9 

BoottW 11% 

Great Falls '^ , 36 in 9 

Great Falls Q, 36-iu 12% 

Great Falls M, 33-in 8% 

Harris, 36-in 9% 

HoDe A, 36-in 9 

Hil! . 11 

Hl'l, 32-in 10 



8^ 



1% 
8% 
7% 
9% 
9 

■7% 



6% 

7 

7% 

10% 

6% 

5% 

7 

6% 

6 

5% 

6% 

7% 



6^ 
6% 
6% 
6% 
10 
6% 
7 

"7" 
6% 
6 

5% 
6% 
7 



11% 

12% 
13% 











8^^ 






10 


7% 


7% 




5 


6% 


9% 


.... 




■9% 







'9* 


*6% 


"6% 




8^ 


7% 


11% 


1% 


10% 




7% 



Si 

Prices of Cottons in 1859, Etc.— Continued. 

{Bleached Sheetings unci Shirtings. — Continue I.) 

3IarcU, 
1859 
CeiitS' 

Lonsdale, 36-in 10% 

Masonvill6, 36-in 11% 

Slater ville, 36-in 9% 

New York Mills 15 

Waltham, 42 in 10 

Waltham, le-in 12 

Waltham, 54-in 15% 

Waltham, 72-in. 21 

Waltham, 81-in 24 

Waltham, 90-in 28 

Wamsutta, 36-in 12% 

Wamsutta, 40-in ; 14% 

Wamsutt», 45-in 15% 

Warren, 36in 9% 

Waure^aa WT, 36-in 11% 

White Kock, 36-in 

Pepperell, 6-4 

Pepperell, 8-4 

Pepperell, 9-4 

Pepperell, 10-4 

Utica Steam Cot. Miils, 36-in 

Utica Steam Cot. Mills, 5-4 

Utica Steam Cot. Mill^^, 6-4. ... 

Utica Steam Cot, Mills. 9-4 

U tica Steam Cot. Mills, 10-4 



March, 


June, 


Oct. 


1860. 


1887. 


1889. 


Cents. 


Gents. 


Cents. 


11% 


s% 


8 




s% 


s% 


10% 






15% 


ii 


io 


11 „ 






15% 






23% 




.... 


27 






30 






13 


11 


10 


15 


14 




16% 


16 


14% 


11% 




11 


13 


s% 


9X 


13 


8 


8 


16 


14% 


13% 


23 


18 


18 


26 


20 


"20 


30 


22% 


24 


10 


11 


8% 


15% 


15 


13% 


18% 


17% 


15% 


30 


25 


22% 


33 


27% 


24% 



Amoskeag: brown 

Amoskeag bleached. 

Amosbeag blue 

Laconia brown 

Laconia bleached 

Laconia blue 

Massachusetts 

Pepperell 

Stark 

Suffolk.... 

Boott 



BROWN DKIIiLS. 

... s% 

... 10% 

... 9% 

... 10 

... 10% 

... 8% 

... 9% 

... 9% 

... 9 
9% 



BEOWN DENIMS. 

Amoskea^r A 14% 

Columbian XXX 10 

Otis AAA 10 

Pearl Kiver 14 

Warren BB 9% 

York 15 

COKSET JEANS. 

Amoskeag, colored 9% 

Amoskeag, bleached 9% 

Ppperell, colored 9 

Pepperell, bleached 9% 

Naumkeag:, colored 9% 

Naumkeagr, bleached 9% 

Laconia, colored 9% 

L'iconia, bleached 9% 



15 

10 
10 

14% 

9% 

14^ 



e% 


6% 


T4 




10% 


io 


G% 


^% 


6% 


6% 


6% 


7 


6% 


6% 


6% 


ey. 


14 


13 


12 


10 


12% 


10 


13% 

9% 

13% 


12% 


9 


n% 



^4 

8% 

7% 
6% 



8 

8 

7 
7 

6% 
6^ 



85 



Prices of Cottons in 1859, Etc.— Continued. 
(Bleached Sheetings on i Shirtings.— Continwd.) 



HIOKOKT STKIPES. 



March, 
1859. 
Cents. 

Amoskeag 11 

Boston 9% 

JewettCity 9% 

Thorndike S% 

TICKINGS. 

Amoskea^ ACA, 32-in 16% 

Amoskeag A, 32-m 13 

Amoskeaff B, 32-in 11% 

Amoskeag C. 32-in 11 

Amoskeag D 10 

Amoskpag awning, 32-in 11 

Conestogo A, 30-in 9% 

Conestogo AA, 30-in 10% 

Conestogo HT, 30-in 11% 

Conestogo XX r. 30-in 12% 

Conestogo CCA, 30-in ... 14% 

Hamilton, 30-ia 11% 

Methuf^n, 32-iQ 14 

Pearl Kiver, 32-in : . . . 15% 

Thorndike A 9% 

York, 30-in 12% 

York, 32-in 16 ] 

COTTON FliANNEIiS. 

Amoskeag A, brown 11% 

Amoskeag B, brown 11% 

Amoskeag A, bleached 14 

Amoskeag B, bleached 13% 

Hamilton F, brown 10 

Hamilton BF, bleached 10% 



March, Jane, Oct. 

I860. 1887. 1889 

Cents. Cents. Gents. 

9% 9% 

7% 6% 

7% 7% 

.... 9%@1U 9% 



17 

13% 
12% 
11% 
10% 
11% 
9% 

10% 
il% 
12% 
14% 
11% 
14% 
15% 

Ql/ 



COTTON BAGS. 
23 



S^ark A, 2-bush.. 

PRINTS. 

{lilens..... 10 

American 10 

Gloucester 9% 

(Jonestoga 9% 

Garner 9% 

Merrimack D. 10 

Merrimack W 10% 

Spragues 10 

GINGHAMS. 

Lancaster staples '. ... 10 

Glasgow . 10 

Manchester 9% 



9% 
9% 



9% 
"9% 



14 
13 
12 

1 ii/ 

il/Q 
11 

13 



13 
11 

12% 

13% 



14 
13 
15 
14 

10% 



21 



5% 
5% 
5% 
5% 
5% 
6 

6% 



7% 
7 

6'i 



12% 
11% 

15 



11 
10 
12 
12 

7% 
12 
14 



13 
12 

14% 
13 
9 
10 



20% 



6 
6 
6 

e" 

6% 



6 

5% 



80 

British Exports of Sewing Thread. 
In 1888 the total quantity of sewing thread exported 
from Great Britian was 21,719,100 lbs., valued at 
£3,180,885. The figures for the previous year, 1887, 
were 20,392,000 lbs., valued at £2.979,184. 



«#>» 



Location of the Cotton Trade of G-reat Britain 

The bulk of the cotton trade in England is found in 
Lancashire, and it is the chief and most absorbing 
occupation of cities and towns like Manchester, Liver- 
pool, Preston, Blackburn, Bolton, Bary,Wigan, Oldham, 
Chorley, Barnley, Padinam, Accrington, Middletown, 
Bacup, and countless villages. 

The chief cotton centres of Scotland are Glasgow, 
Paisley, and a few of the Ayrshire towns. 



^^^^■^^^ 



Loss of Weight in Bleaching Gotten. 
In bleaching cotton it loses a portion of its weight, 
because the bleaching process is, in all cases, suhstractive. 
It loses much resinous and coloring matter, often 
amounting from 10 to 12 per cent. On dyeing, etc., on the 
contrary, it acquires a portion of the drugs employed, 
because this process is additive ; and as much as 10 to 15 
may be added to the weight of the raw yarn, by its pass- 
age through the various coloring processes. 



Cotton Crops of Egypt. 
The following is a tabulated statement of the cotton 
crops of Egypt from 1873 to 1888, inclusive. The weight 
of the bale is 750 pounds: 

1873-4 413,611 2.575,648 

1874-5 348,802 2,206,443 

1875-6 466,894 2,982,287 

1876-7 438,536 2,817,482 

1877-8 403,270 2,605,453 

1878-9 254,342 1.677,749 

1879-80 471,726 3,202,051 

1880-1 409,101 2,794.321 

1881-2 . ■ 425,315 2,930,962 

l'<82-3 326,077 2,267,863 

1883 4 380,801 2,265 531 

1884-5 '. 501,686 3,564,717 

1885-6 407,970 2,901,607 

1886-7 418,372 2,983,123 

1887-8 413,891 2,942,638 



87 

Cotton Factories. 
The accompanying illustration gives a fair representa- 
tion of the modern cotton factory: 




A MODERN COTTON FACTORY. 

The general height of the cotton mills in this conntry 
(that is, those built prior to the late war) is three to four 
stories with an attic, but some mills since then, or more 
recently, are five, six and even more stories, with plain 
roof. 

The height of cotton mills in Scotland is six stories, 
with plain roof. Those in England are from six to eight 
stories high. 



Inventor of the Cotton G-in. 
Eli Whitney, the inventor of the cotton gin, died on 
Jan. 8, 1825, and was buried in the cemetery of New 
Haven, Conn. His tomb is after the model of Scipio's 
at E,ome. It is simple and beautiful, and promises to 
endure for years. It bears the following inscription : 

ELI WHITNEY, 

The inventor of the cotton gin. 

Of useful science and arts, the efficient patron 

and improver. 

In the social relations of life, a model of excellence. 

While private affection weeps at his tomb, his country 

honors his memory. 

Born December 8th, 1765. -Died Jan. 8th, 1825. 



88 

Adulterated or "Loaded" Britisii Cottons. 

Britisli cotton goods are still sold fully loaded, and 
sometimes so much so that it is hardly fair to call them 
cotton, when that material can scarcely be considered 
the chief constituent of them. According to a British 
textile authority; "They will probably continue to sell 
so long as they constitute our cheapest textile; but if 
any of the efforts to find a new fibre, or to improve the 
processes in those in use, were to be rewarded with suc- 
cess, the English sized calicoes would have had their 
da3^ Th^re is no doubt that ingenuity in bleaching 
and finishing has been brought to such a degree that 
the marketable cotton cloth now covers a multitude of 
sins, and that a third-class article can be brought almost 
to equal in appearance a cloth of the best quality." 



Differences in Textile Fibres. 

The textile fibres, cotton, wool, silk, flax and hemp 
differ considerably from each other in their structure. 
The first three consist of definite and entire filaments 
not divisible without decomposition ; the last two con- 
sist of fibrils bundled together in parallel directions 
which are easier separated into much more minute fila- 
ments. These bundles are bound together by paren- 
chymatous rings, from which they are freed by opera- 
tions of heckling, spinning and bleaching. The downy 
filaments are cylindered tube?, growing in that state, 
but get more or less flattened in the maturation and 
dyeing of the wool. They are shut off at both end^ , 
and their flattened diameters vary from 1-500 to 1-1000 
of an inch, according to the quality. 

The filaments of wool, when seen through a power- 
ful microscope, have somewhat the appearance of a 
shale, with the edges of its scales turned out a little 
from the surface so as to mike the profile line of the 
sides like a fine saw, with the teeth sloping in the di- 
rection from the roots to the point. Each fibre of wool 
seems to consist of serrated rings imbricated over each 
other like joints. The teeth differ in size and promi- 
nence in different wools, as well as the annular spaces 
between them, the latter being in genfral from 1-2000 to 
1-3000 of an inch, while the diameter of the filament 
itself may vary from 1-1000 to 1-liOO. The cocoon-^ilk 
threads are twin tubes laid parallel in the act of spin- 
ning and glued with more or less uniformity together 
by the varnish which covers their whole surface. Each 
filament of this thread varies in diamett^r from l-sno to 
1-2500 of an inch, the average breadth being 1-1000 ; 
but it is variable in different silks. 



Early History of Oalico Printing. 

The art of impressing colored piitterns or designs on 
white cotton cloth seems to be as old almost as historj' 
itself. Herodotus speaks of a people on the shores of 
the Caspian Sea who painted the forms of animals on 
their garments with vegetable dye. Indeed, calico print- 
ing has been one of the industries of India for centuries, 
and from there it was introduced into Europe. It was 
brought to England in 1696, but it was not practiced 
in Lancashire until about 1768, as its introduction en- 
countered great opposition from the silk weavers. As 
early as 1720 a law was passed by Parliament prohibit- 
ing the wearing of all printed calico whatsoever, 
although ten years later, by special act of legislation, 
the manufacture and wearing of printed cloth made of 
cotton weft and linen warp was permitted. In 1744 Par- 
liament allowed cloth made entirely of cotton to be 
printed, but so many burdensome restrictions sur- 
rounded its manufacture that no very great progress 
was made until 1831, when all the oppressive laws relat- 
ing to it were repealed. 

As early as 1824 the product of printed cottons in the 
New England States amounted to 60,000 yards per 
we6k, and in 1860 the product of print cloths in the 
same States aggregated 271,800,871 yards, or 5,223,000 
yards per week, which indicates how rapid has been the 
progress made in this industry in this country. Eng- 
land and the United States are the largest producers of 
calico in the world, although France and Germj*ny make 
considerable quantities. Calico printing involves a 
variety of very nice operations : 

1. Calendering, or making the cloth smooth and even. 

2. Fixing the colors, i.e., the use of substances which 
have an affinity for both fibre and color. 

3. Patterns, madder styles, by printing -the mordant 
in figures and subsequently producing the colors in dye 
liquors ; padding, bron:^ing indigo, pencil blue, China 
blue styles, etc., by printing one component of the color 
and then passing the cloth through a solution of the 
other component ; steam colors, spirit colors, aniline 
black, etc., by printing the color together with the mor- 
dant, and developing it by air or steam ; resist styles, by 
printing reserve pastes which protected certain portions 
of the cloth and prevent the fixing of the color in the 
subsequent dyeing operations ; discharge styles, by dis- 
charging the color from portions of the cloth previously 
dyed. 



90 

Processes Cotton Cloth in the Gray Undergoes Before 
It Becomes Printed Calico. 

When the plain, unbleached cloth is received at the 
print works, it undergoes the following processes before 
it can be delivered to the agents as a print : 

1, Shearing ; 2, singeing ; 3, bleaching ; 4, preparing; 
5, drying ; 6, winding ; 7, printing ; 8, drying ; 9, 
steaming ; 10, ageing ; 11, soaping ; 12, washing ; 13, 
drying ; 14, clearing ; 15, drying ; 16, starching ; 17, 
drying ; 18, inspecting ; 19, calendering ; 20, winding ; 
21, measuring ; 22, folding ; 23, pressing ; 24, boxing. 

To secure good results, high, artistic talent is neces- 
sary in the designing department, supplemented neces- 
sarily with personal direction, based upon good artistic 
judgment and practical knowledge of trade wants. 

The engraving department must also make fine 
mechanical work to transfer to the rollers the designs, 
so they will print perfectly, while the color maker must 
develop the delicate tones required to make the harmony 
and blending of colors necessary to make the finished 
article a success. 

In the processes following the printing, such as 
steaming, calendering, etc., the same skillful treatment 
is necessary as in the preceding work ; and in the final 
work of inspection, folding, pressing, and ticketing, 
great care is necessary to put the fabric into the most 
attractive form for selling. 

^t^- 



How Indigo Prints are Made. 

Patterns on indigo-dyed goods are produced either 
by resisting or by discharging; the first method is not 
so largely used now as formerly, as by the discharging 
process better and neater impressions can be obtained. 

The dyeing of cotton cloth in tlie indigo vat has 
not experienced much change oT late years, except that 
the continuous dyeing machines have come more promi- 
nently into use in preference to the round vats formerly 
employed. 

The machinery now mostly in use consists of a 
square tank, generally imbedded in the ground, througli 
which the cloth is passed in its full widtli over a sj^stem 
of rollers. As a rule, the reduction on the indigo is 
eff'ected in tubs, and then the necessary quantity is 
added to the dye vats. After dyeing, the goods are 
scoured to remove the lime and other impurities, and 
well washed and dried, and are then ready for the dis- 
charging. 



91 

Bleaching Printing Oloth. 

The first operation the gray pieces have to undergo 
before they are bleached is the ^ 

Stamping.— This is necessary in order that the goods 
can be recognized after they have been bleached. Then 
follows the stitching of the pieces to each other, end to 
end, in order to form a long ribbon, by means of which 
the cloth is treated in a continuous way. 

As is well known, cotton cloth contains on its surface a 
certain amount of light down, consisting of the ends of 
cotton fibre, and this will have to be removed before the 
goods are bleached. The removal of this down is of 
special importance if the goods are afterwards intended 
to be printed, since these small filaments of cotton would 
interfere with the formation of clean prints. 

This down is removed during the operation of 

Singeing.— This is performed on specially constructed 
machines, working on the principle of passing very 
rapidly the pieces over red-hot plates, revolving hot 
cylinders or gas-burners, which only burn off the small 
outstanding filaments without touching the cloth, if the 
operation is well conducted. The gas-singeing machine 
is now mostly employed, but plate or cylinder singeing 
still does very good service, and among the newer 
methods recommended may be mentioned the singeing 
- by electricity. 

The goods are washed thoroughly on the washing 
machine and then allowed to steep or lie in a heap all 
night. A kind of fermentation sets in, which allows the 
sizing materials to be removed. 

Liming. — This operation consists in passing the pieces 
in a continuous way through milk of lime, the pro- 
portion of which has been so arranged that the cloth 
takes up about five per cent, of lime to the weight of 
cotton. 

ScouEiNG OR BoiiiiNG.— The pieces are then brought 
into the kiers by means of machinery. In these they 
are so arranged that they fill up all the space of the 
kiers in a regular way, boys entering the vessels and 
helping in the laying of the cloth in the apparatus by 
means of sticks. 

As a rule, all the operations of bleaching are performed 
on cloth folded up in the form of a rope, this being a 
very convenient form, especially for running the pieces 
from one apparatus or machine through the other, but 
in some cases the cloth is worked quite open, and spread 
out to its full width. 



92 

Cost of "Weaving Print Cloths in England and America. 
The cost of weaving printing cloths in England and 
America is given as follows : 

28 in., 56 reeds, 28 in., GO reeds, 

14 picks (G4x63) IG picks (64x64) 

58 yards. 58 yards. 

Englano. Cents. Pence. Cents. Pence. 

Ashton Under-Lyne.. . 24.G8 12.34 27.70 13.85 

Blackburn 25.04 12.52 29.06 14.53 

Stockport 25.04 12.52 29.48 14.74 

Hyde 25.28 12.68 29.30 14.65 

General Average 25.00 12.50 28.88 14.44 

America. 

Rhode Island 16.82 8.41 Unknown. 

Providence 17.26 8.63 22.30 11.15 

Fall River , 19.96 9.98 23.20 11.60 

Lowell 19.96 9 98 23 20 11.60 

General Average 18.50 9.25 22 90 11.45 

The weight of a cloth 28 inches, 56 reed, 14 picks,. 58 
yards long, is 7 pounds and 4 ounces, and the cost of 
weaving in wages per pound, is 0.898 cent, or 0,449d. 
less in America than in England, while the difference in 
favor of America in a cloth 28 inches, 60 reed. 16 
picks, 58 yards long, weighing 8 pounds and 4 ounces, 
is 0.726 cent, or 0.363d. per pound. American print 
cloth is made of coarser yarn than the English, the 
usual counts being about No. 29 for warp and No. 3f! for 
weft, while in England they are respectively about No. 
31 and No. 41. 

The usual production at Fall River and Lowell for 
each loom, per week of sixty hours, is 5^ pieces of 28- 
inch, 16x16 (64x64), 45 yards, making each loom earn 
for its attendant 99c., or 4s l^d. It is quite an ordinary 
thing for eight looms to be worked by one weaver. 
Printing cloth in America is 28 inches wide and in 
England 32 inches wide. The former being made of 
coarser yarn and the latter of finer, makes the foregoing 
a fair comparison. 



Two Kinds of Cotton Goods Printers. 

In both England and this country there are two kinds 
of cotton goods printers — those who sell direct to the 
merchants themselves, and those who print the cloth for 
merchants at piece price. 



93 

Principal Colors, etc., Used in Dyeing and Printing 
Cotton Cloth. 

The aniline colors are divided into basic and acid 
colorirg matters; the basic products are those which 
are neutral salts — the combination of an acid with base 
of the dyestuff itself — while the acid colors are those 
which have been obtained on the bases of the aniline 
colors by means of sulphuric acid. As a general rule 
much faster shades are obtained by means of the basic 
aniline colors, and these are also much more employed 
in printing on cotton cloth than the acid colors. 

Of the colors which can be fixed by steaming, we 
have, in the first instance, the pigments, then the ani- 
line or coal tar colors, and the dyewood extracts, among 
which may be mentioned indigo and some mineral 
colors. 

The pigments are fixed by means of albumen, the 
principle of their fixation relying on the fact that albu- 
men becomes coagulated by the action of steam, and 
thus keeps the pigments impressioned in the coagulated 
substance and permanently fixed on the fibre, so that they 
cannot be removed either by washing or soaping. The 
thickenings only react in a mechanical way by keeping 
the colors on the spots for which they are intended, and 
preventing them from running. 

The new class of azo dyestuffs (unlike the others de- 
rived from coal tar) can be applied on cotton without 
the aid of mordants, and in a single bath. The azo colors 
are, without doubt, the richest class of colors derived 
from coal tar, and have been found especially useful 
for cotton yarns. 

Mineral colors are fixed on cotton in two ways — as 
ready-made pigments, by the aid of a fixing medium, 
such as albumen, etc, or by applying first the mordant, 
and afterwards developing the color in another bath. 
They form a very important group, not so much for 
printing purposes as in producing white patterns on 
colored cotton goods, but some of them are largely em- 
ployed in the finishing processes. They include white 
pigments, yellow pigments, metallic powders, red pig- 
ments, green pigments, blue pigments, prussiate blues, 
brown pigments, blacks and grays, etc. 



9A 

Natural organic coloring matters include logwood, 
red woods, madder, cochineal, yellow dyestuffs, Persian 
berries, fustic, tumeric, annatto, cutch or catechu, aloes, 
indigo, etc. 

Coal tar colors represent the benzole colors (princi- 
pally aniline) — aniline, magenta, soluble blues, diphenyl 
unime, methyl violets, Hoffman's violets, crystal violets, 
methyl green, methylene blue, aethylene blue, safranine, 
phosphine, indulines, neutral red and neutral violets, 
Bismarck brown, chrysoidine, flavantine, etc, 

Azo colors are victoria blue — auramine, red coraline, 
the eosines — the soluble azo colors (new class of azo 
colors) — indo-phenol, artificial indigo, alizarin, alizarin 
orange, alizarin blue, gallein, cerulein, etc. 

Mordants comprise alumina mordants, iron mordants, 
chromium mordants, tin mordants, copper mordants, 
lead mordants, manganese mordants, zinc mordants, 
arsenic mordants, antimony mordants, vanadium com- 
pounds, cereum salts, dunging material, astringents, or 
tanning materials, soaps, oils, prepared oil mordants, 
solvents, etc. 

In some kinds of calico, pieces containing much 
white are bleached after printing in order to clear the 
white. This is done by passing the pieces through a 
weak chlorine bath, and then directly through a steam- 
ing box; then washed, and either dried or starched, as 
the case may be. The pieces are often slightly blued 
with ultramarine. 

In some cases the mordants are first printed on 
calico, and the colors fixed by dyeing. 

Thickening or sizing materials include the various 
starches — dextrine, gums, tragacanth, albumenoid mat- 
ters, caseine or lactariue, glue, gelatine, etc. 

Dj'ewood extract colors are an important class of color- 
ing matters which are even now very largely used in 
printing; in fact, from these the steam or extract style 
derives its name. The most important of these is the 
logwood extract, v/hich is employed in very large quan- 
tities for the production of steam blacks^ and in a 
smaller way for the production of compound shades. 

Steam mineral colors are chrome yellow, cadmium 
yellow, iron buff, steam prussiate blue, steam manganese 
brown, etc. 

Oxidation colors are aniline black colors and chromed 
colors, such as calectin, logwood black, Prussian blue, 
etc., chrome yellow, etc. — Antonio Sansome. 



95 

Calico Printing Machine. 

The Calico Printing Machine consists of a large drum, revolv 
ing on its axis. The drum is covered with several layers of a 
coarse cloth called lapping, in order to form a kind of elastic 
cushion. Against this drum is pressed the engraved copper 
cylinder, which receives the color from a wooden cylinder, cov- 
ered with cloth, and revolving or dipping in the color trough. In 
order to remove the surplus color from the copper roller, the so- 
called doctor is supplied. The latter is simply a sharp blade, 
which is pressed at an angle on the roller, and scrapes off all the 
color from the roller except that which is contained in the en- 
graving. In order to remove any loose threads or filaments the 
so-called lint-doctor is also supplied, working on the other side 
of the roller, opposite to the color-doctor. 




TWELVE-COLOR CALICO PRINTING MACHINE. 

Cloth to be printed passes between the engraved copper roUer 
and the drum, and, in order to have an elastic under layer, it is 
supplied with the blanket, which is a thick, strong cloth, generallj^ 
made of pure wool, and which is arranged as an endless web, 
both ends being carefully sewn together. For keeping the blanket 
clean the hack cloth is allowed to go between the blanket and the 
printing cloth. The back cloth is simply formed of gray ploth, 
which has to be bleached and printed in its turn. 

The three cloths — ^that is, the blanket, the back cloth and the 
printing cloth — go through at the same time between the drum 
and the printing roller. The latter gives the color in the engrav- 
ing over to the printing cloth next to it, and this giving up is 
caused, first, by the pressure of the printing roller against the 
drum, and secondly by the action of the lapping and the blanket, 
which, by forming a kind of elastic cushion, press the print cloth 
into the engraved cavities of the roller and force the cloth to ab- 
sorb the color, which is prevented spreading over by the pressure 
asserted at the time. 

For each color one roller is necessary, and therefore a pattern 
containing more than one color or shade requires a separate roller 
for each, each roller, of course, containing the engraving of the 
color it has to give up to the cloth, and must be suppUed with the 
other accessories of doctor, color-trough, cylinder, etc. 



96 

Additional Points about Calico Printing. 
It is generally desired to make the dye or colors on 
calico as permanent as possible, so that they may resist 
the action of water, soap, soda, and other articles in 
ordinary domestic use for washing garments, etc., and 
in this respect cotton, woolen and silken goods vary 
greatly. The two latter have ordinarily a great affinity 
for vegetable coloring, with or without the aid of mor- 
dants. Cotton, on the other hand, has little X)r none 
independent of mordants ; and, even with them, the 
colors it receives have little permanency when compared 
with that shown in dyed stuffs of an animal origin. 
This fact is familiarly known in the loss of color which 
even the best dyed cotton dresses, furniture hangings, 
etc., undergo in the operations of repeated washing. 
However, the discovery and utilization of coal tar colors 
in dyeing and printing on cotton have greatly modified 
or changed the process formerly employed. The latter 
have the singular property of not requiring a mordant; 
hence, in nearly every case, they are directly trans- 
ferred to the cloth, etc., by a simple immersion of it in 
a suitable solution of the dye. 

FIXING COLORS ON COTTON CLOTH. 

To fix the colors derived from a vegetable source on 
calico, mordants are used. They usually consist of some 
mineral substance, as the sulphate of iron or copperas, 
chloride of tin, acetate of lead, alum, etc. They act by 
uniting with coloring matter of the plant, rendering it 
insoluble, so as to prevent its being washed away from 
the article thus dyed. 

The mordant is only applied in places where a cer- 
tain color is to be produced. The mordants are fixed 
on by paste, etc., at certain portions of the cloth, and 
this being passed through a tub containing the coloring 
matter, they affect only those parts which have been 
covered with them, so as to permanently dye them. 

Any number of vegetable colors may be produced in 
calico printing by a proper application of mordants, 
and subsequent immersion in a solution of vegetable 
coloring matter. Superfluous color is generallj' removed 
by a weak solution of chloride of lime and abundant 
washing in water. 



97 
PRINTED COLORS AND DYED COIjORS. 

In some instances the mordants are first printed on 
calicoes and the colors fixed by dyeing, in others by 
printing and then steaming. Indeed, the method of 
fixation of the different coloring matters in printing 
vary considerably according to the nature of the dye- 
stuffs, but they can be divided into two distinct classes, 
comprising — 

1st. Printed (direct) colors. 

2d. Dyed colors. 

The dye colors are produced either by first printing 
with mordants, then fixing and dyeing in a bath with 
coloring matters ; or the cloth is dyed all over and 
designs produced by the resisting or discharging pro- 
cesses. The printed or direct colors are applied at once 
on the cloth, and fixed by .different methods, relying 
either on the steaming, oxidation, or reduction process, 
etc., and are therefore styled steam or oxidation colors. 

All dyestuffs capable of being fixed on cotton cloth 
by means of mordants can be employed for dyeing cloth 
on which the mordants are printed, and this plan is 
sometimes followed, but not so much since the devel- 
opment of steam colors. 

AGEING, DUNGING AND FIXING PROCESSES. 

The ageing process has for its object the decomposing 
of the acetates, so that acetic acid is driven off and a 
basic insoluble product is deposited on the fibre. For 
this the steam ageing apparatus is now successfully 
used, the cloth passing rapidly through it, and exposed 
for about two minutes to a temperature of 185° F. 

The ageing process is followed by the so-called dunging 
or fixing process. This operation consists simply in 
passing the cloth in a continuous manner through an 
apparatus or cistern containing the dunging liquors. 
The object of this is — first of all to eomplete precipita- 
tion of the insoluble compound on the fibre, and at the 
same time the removing of the thickening, and also any 
portion of the mordant which has not been fixed on the 
fibre. The brightening process consists in treating the 
cloth with a so-called acid soaj). 



98 

topicaij, resist and discharge processes. 
At times colors are printed on calico topica lly; that is, 
they are applied, mixed with gum, etc., directly on the 
cloth. By this method the dye is imprinted on at once, 
and no further manipulation is required. On the other 
hand, resists, or substances which prevent the action of 
the dye on cloth, are used; and places so marked return 
a white appearance, or that of the " ground " already 
dyed. 

Another method which is often employed in calico 
printing is that of "discharging." If, for example, a 
piece of black cotton cloth be marked over by blocks 
covered with a paste containing tartaric or eitric acid, 
wherever the latter touches the cloth, its color will be 
removed.or "discharged," and thus white spots are pro- 
duced on the black ground. Numerous modifications 
of this principle with other discharging agents, and 
various coloring matters, are of frequent use for pro- 
ducing colored patterns on an even-dyed ground. 

In the discharging process the goods are padded all 
over, or on one side only, with mordant and dried, and 
afterwards the discharge is printed on, which, by dis- 
solving the iron or alumina mordant where it is applied, 
prevents any color from being formed there, and there- 
fore causes the production of white spots on colored 
grounds when the goods are dyed in alizarin, etc. 

Still another method is found in cases where the same 
mordant produces various colors with different coloring 
matters. 

EXTRACT STYLES. 

The steaming method is generally known as the extract 

style, and, as a rule, the majority of alizarin steam colors 

— reds, pinks, purples, chocolates, browns, etc. — are 

fast, being printed on cloth previously prepared with 
oleine or alizarin oil. Alizarin reds and pinks are also 
printed with alumina mordants, purples with iron, and 
chocolates with mixtures of iron and alumina mordants. 
In fact, alizarin is fixed on calico by two distinct 
methods, either by dyeing or j)rinting. In the latter 
case steaming is necessary for the development of the 
shades. 



99 
PADDING AND MADDER STYLES. 

The so-called padding styles in calico printing are, in 
reality, a modification of the madder styles or alizarin 
dyed colors, and, although not used so largely as for- 
merly, are still employed in print works to a certain 
extent. 

The madder styles, which were atone time very largely 
used, have not been much in vogue the last few years, 
but prints in which dyed alizarin red enters have been, 
and are now, very extensively produced, especially for 
designs of red and aniline black on white grounds. 

In printing works the practice of steaming varies 
considerably. While aniline colors generally are 
steamed, sometimes at about four pounds pressure, 
alizarin steam reds are sometimes steamed at much 
higher pressure, some printers maintaining that at 
much higher pressure better colors are the result. 

Starchy substances are generally employed as thick- 
eners, or as sizing or finishing materials in printed cot- 
tons, such as wheat starch, rice starch, Indian or maize 
starch, potato starch or farina starch, wheat flour, gums, 
albumens, glues, gelatines, etc. 

PIGMENTS AND KED WOODS. 

The pigment colors now generally used are the 
iollowing: 

First in importance is ultramarine, then chrome orange, 
chrome and cadmium yellow, chrome green, vermillion, huiff 
or oxide of iron, ochre, burnt sienna, lampblack, etc. These 
can be fixed by steaming, as also the aniline or coal tar 
colors and the dye wood extracts. 

Eed woods are not now often used as self-colors, but 
they are still used to a great extent in compound shades, 
principally for the production of chocolates, browns, etc. 

Since the lowering in price of artificial alizarin the 
chocolates derived from the red dye-wood have lost a 
great deal of their importance, the more so as the pro- 
duction of these chocolates with alizarin, on red or 
purple colors of the print works, are mixed together, 
the shades being modified according to requirement by 
the addition of dye wood extracts, etc. The extracts 
of dye woods are also very extensively used for the pro- 
duction of fancy or light shades of great variety. 



100 
COAIi TAR COIiOBS. 

The coloring matters derived from coal tar are of three 
kinds: The 6enzoZ coZors, which comprise all the aniline 
dyes, and also the carbolic acid or phenol dyestuffs; 
the naphthaline colors, which comprise the azo products, 
and the anthracene derivatives, principally alizarin, etc. 

Coal tar colors now form the most important class of 
dye products used in printing. For calico printing the 
aniline and the anthracene colors are of the utmost im- 
portance, while those derived from naphthaline, princi- 
pally the azo colors, are only employed to a moderate 
extent in printing, on account of the difficulty or impos- 
sibility of obtaining fast shades with these products. 

One of the great difficulties at first experienced in the 
printing of aniline was the liability of the color either 
to turn to a greenish hue by exposure, owing to the effect 
of the sulphurous acid, or the danger of rottening the 
fabric. These difficulties, however, are not so much 
encountered now as formerly. 

MINERAL COLORS, ETC. 

Mineral colors are fixed on cotton in two ways— as 
ready-made pigments, by the aid of a fixing medium, or 
by applying first the mordant and afterwards developing 
the color in another bath. 

The dyeing of cotton cloth in the indigo vat has not 
experienced much change in late years, except that the 
continuous dyeing machines have come more promi- 
nently into use in preference to the round vats formerly 
employed. 

White patterns under aniline black are now often pro- 
duced by padding the goods with aniline black color, 
then printing on alkaline resist, and afterwards exposing 
the goods to ageing in the usual way. 

The acid colors are not so much employed in calico 
printing as the aniline basic dyestuffs ; the aniline 
blues, however, are pretty largely used, and they sup- 
ply shades which will stand even lukewarm soaping, 
and are also very bright, but they do not come up in 
the point of fastness. 

Iron steam blacks are not now so much employed as 
formerly. There are now some logwood preparations 
which yield some very good steam blacks. 



101 
DYEWOOD, EXTRACTS, ETC. 

Indeed the most important of the dyewood extracts in 
calico printing is still the logwood extract, which is 
employed in very large quantities for the production of 
steam blacks, and in a smaller way in the production of 
compound shades. 

The brands of alizarins generally used for steam reds 
are those of yellow shades, because they give a color 
which is more pleasing to the eye, as can be easily 
understood. 

Turkey red goods, obtained by the discharging process 
after dyeing, are produced in very large quantities. The 
cloth is first of all dyed Turkey red, and then the pat- 
terns are produced by discharging, and thus whites, 
yellows, blues, greens and blacks are obtained on red 
grounds. 

Violets and greens produce deep blue colors on cali- 
coes, and are extensively used for the purpose in print 
works, but the shades obtained are not as bright as 
those produced by some other methods. 

Olive greens are very largely employed in steam color 
printing, and are mostly produced by means of log- 
wood, berry extracts, etc. — Extracts from " Calico Print- 
ing." 



Price of Domestic G-inghams in 1818. 

Extract of letter from Samuel Slater, Jr., of New 
Povidence, R. I., to J. & M. Brown, Philadelphia, Pa,, 
August 14, 1818 : 

•' A Providence friend of mine sent me a letter to-day 
which he had recently received from his correspondent 
in Philadelphia, stating that you, he and others, could 
not obtain more than about /Mr^?/ cents for good ging- 
hams, on a credit of four to six months." 



102 




The Calender. 

This is a machine for smoothing or hot-pressing cotton 
fabrics between rollers to give them a glossy appear- 
ance. The domestic processes of starching and ironing 
afford simple illustration of the object and resiilt of 
calendering. The mangle effects the same object as the 
flat-iron, and is a near approach in construction to the 
calendering machine. The latter was originally of 
wood. Hollow iron and copper cylinders are used 
where heat as well as pressure are requii-ed, the cylinders 
being heated by steam passed through the interior, or 
by red-hot heaters; but it is desirable that one of the 
cylinders shall be of a material combining considerable 
hardness with a degree of elasticity; for this purpose 
solid paper cylinders are used. 

Before the final calendering the fabric is flatly 
smoothed by passing over warm cylinders. Cotton 
goods are starched with flour, thickened with plaster of 
Paris, porcelain clay, etc., to give them the appearance 
of stoutness, which of course vanishes when the article 
is washed. The fabric is then simply passed between 
plain cylinders, which produces the desired effect by 
flattening the threads; .when, by means of a cylinder 
with a pattern raised upon it, the amount of this flatten- 
ing is unequal on different parts of the cloth, the effect 
known as watering is the result. Glazing is produced by 
the rollers being made to move with different velocities, 
so that one side of the fabric is rubbed as well as pressed 
by the roller whose surface moves with greater rapidity. 
A copper roller is used for glazing, so hot that if the 
machine stops it burns the goods. 



103 

Finishing Printed Cottons. 

The finishing of printed cotton fabrics is a very im- 
portant question, as upon the way the goods have been 
finished depends, to a great extent, their saleable value. 
With the exception of Turkey red prints, and some 
kind of indigoes, all printed goods are subjected to the 
finishing operations. 

The finish varies considerably, according to the styles, 
and especially according to the markets for which the 
goods are intended; and finishing is a branch of indus- 
try which can only be learned by practice, therefore we 
shall only treat of the principle here, and indicate the 
apparatus usually employed. For some goods no stiff- 
ening is required, while for others a starching all over 
is necessary; but prints are, as a rule, only starched at 
the back. In some instances a lustre is required on 
the cloth, while on others only a matt finish is wanted. 

The starching of prints all over is performed on the 
starching machines, and is still in principle the old 
arrangement of a frame supporting three rollers, one of 
brass or copper between two of hard wood. The cloth, 
after passing through a trough, is squeezed by passing 
between the copper and the wooden rollers to remove 
the excess of starch; the cloth is then dried on the dry- 
ing machine, and in order to give smoothness is passed 
through the mangle or calender. The starch is simply 
prepared by boiling starch in a pan, often only by direct 
steam in a tub, and can be made thinner or thicker ac- 
cording to requirements. 

Sago flour and potato starch are, as a rule, preferred 
by the finisher, but mixtures are found in the market 
suitable for special purposes. In boiling the starch a 
low temperature gives better results than a hard boil- 
ing. To impart a more pleasing appearance to goods 
containing white, a small quantity of blue, principally 
ultramarine, is added to the starch, and, as a rule, also 
a softening, such as soap, tallow, etc., and for some pur- 



104 
poses glycerine, which is the best material that can be 
used for the purpose. Often China clay and other white 
pigments are added to the starch, in order to give arti- 
ficial weight and to fill the cloth. 

The hack starching machine is largely used now in the 
finishing of modern prints; it relies on the principle of 
a roller revolving in a starch trough, taking up starch on 
its surface, and giving it to the cloth, which is passed 
in full width over it. The drying of this back starched 
cloth is also performed on the cylinders or tins, which 
are provided with a special arrangement of skeleton 
wooden cylinders, in order to allow only the surface 
without the starch to touch the heated cylinder until 
the starch is sufficiently dry to be passed to the set of 
cylinders in the ordinary manner. 

The Stretching. — For widening the pieces which have 
been stretched only in the direction of the length by 
the different operations of bleaching and printing, sev- 
eral arrangements are devised, working on different 
principles, such as with grooved cylinders, etc., or on 
the principle of widening, or as in the so-called sienter- 
ing machine, by the arrangement of a long frame, the 
widening performed by means of endless traveling 
bands containing pins or clamps on both sides of the 
pieces. 

The Calender is of different construction, but it con- 
sists in principle of an intermediate iron bowl, and two 
other bowls, generally made of paper or compressed 
cotton, which assert a very heavy pressure on the cloth, 
which passes around the iron bowl, and consequently 
between this and consecutively one and the other of the 
bowls, which assert a heavy pressure on the interme- 
diate iron, one by means of screws or other suitable 
arrangements. 

The iron bowl is generally made hollow, in order that 
it may be heated by steam, or sometimes by means of 
heated cannon balls or gas. 

The friction calender or mangle, which is often required 
to impart a higher gloss to the goods, works on the 
principle of two paper bowls, with an iron one on top, 
and this latter, besides asserting a heavy pressure on 
the other two, is made to revolve at a higher speed than 
they do, and thus a friction is caused on the cloth. — 
Cotton Mfg. 



105 

Engraved Copper Cylinder and Blocks in Calico 
Printing. 

Baines thus describes the engraved copper cylinder 
used in calico printing : 

" A polished copper cylinder, several feet in length (ac- 
cording to the width of the piece of cotton cloth to be 
printed), and three or four inches in diameter, is en- 
graved with a pattern round its whole circumference, 
and from end to end; it is then placed horizontally in 
the press, or printing machine, and, as it revolves, the 
lower part of the circumference passes through the col- 
oring matter, which is again removed from the whole 
surface of the cylinder, except the engraved pattern, by 
an elastic steel blade, placed in contact with the cylin- 
der, and reduced to so fine and straight an edge as to 
take off the color without scratching the copper. 

" The color being thus left only on the engraved pat- 
tern, the piece of cotton cloth is drawn tightly over th6 
cylinder, which revolves in the same direction, and 
prints the cloth. After the piece is printed it passes 
over several metallic boxes, heated by steam, which dry 
it. A piece of cloth may be thus printed and dried in 
one or two minutes, or in even shorter time, which, by 
the old method, would have required the application of 
the block 448 times. 

" Two, three, four, or even twenty cylinders may be 
used at the same time in one machine (according to its 
size and construction), each cylinder having engraved 
upon it a different portion of the pattern, and being 
supplied with a different color. The piece of cloth 
passes over them successively, and receives the entire 
pattern almost in the same moment. To produce the 
same effect by hand-block printing would require 896, 
1.344, 1,792, or 2,240 applications of the blocks, accord- 
ing as two, three, four or five cylinders are employed." 



^■^ 



Pirst Cotton Goods Made in England. 
The first cotton goods of English make in which both 
the warp and weft were wholly or entirely of cotton, 
were made at Derby, in 1773. After a considerable 
quantity of these goods had been made, the manufac- 
turers discovered that an existing law imposed not only 
a double duty upon them when printed, but also pro- 
hibited the sale of them in the home market. 



106 

How Copper EoUers for Printing Calico are Engraved. 
The copper roller used in the calico printing machine 
is a hollow cylinder, from J inch to 1^ inches in thick- 
ness, and is mounted on an iron axis to revolve and be 
pressed against the iron drum of the machine. The 
engraving of copper rollers is done sometimes by hand, 
but more often by mechanical or chemical process. 
The mechanical method, or mill engraving, relies on the 
following principle : The pattern to be engraved is cut 

by hand on a small cylinder of soft steel, which is then 
subjected to the. process of hardening, and the design is 
then produced on another soft steel cylinder by a heavy 
rolling pressure on specially constructed machinery. 
The second cylinder is then utilized to produce the 
design on the copper roller, on which it is pressed by 
heavy pressure on suitable machines, when the copper, 
being softer, easily takes the impression, the design 
being repeated all over the roller wherever required. 
In the chemical process, or etching method, the copper 
roller is covered all over with a layer of varnish, on 
which the design is cut through by a sharp point moved 
by means of a pentagraph machine, according to the 
design required; the varnish is removed by the sharp 
point, and the copper is laid bare. The roller is then 
immersed, or rather allowed to revolve for a short time 
in a bath of weak nitric acid — sometimes along with 
chromic acid, when the copper is, to a certain extent, 
dissolved in the portions not protected by the varnish — 
and etched to a sufficient depth to carry the necessary 
amount of color. It is finally washed and dried, and 
after the varnish has been removed the roller is, if 
necessary, polished, and is ready for printing. 



No Sheetings, Shirtings, Cingliams, etc., Made in 
the United States Before 1790. 

According to the most reliable historical and manu- 
facturing authorities, no cotton sheetings, shirtings, 
ginghams, or checks, were made in the United States 
prior to the year 1790. All such classes of goods then 
used by our people were imported, being of English 
manufacture, and of linen warp, with cotton weft. 



107 

Steam Styles of Prints. 

Many Print Works doing steam styles have left off 
the boiling in lime, which was usually the first treat- 
ment in bleaching, contenting themselves with a good 
soda boil and an increased strength of bleaching powder 
before the final scouring, and the result is their whites 
are only passable. The goods will do for the lower class 
of steam work, but alizarine red and pinks do not show 
up well. The cloth is not thoroughly bottomed, and 
will not serve for dyed styles. It seems true, what old 
bleachers maintain, that for a thorough cleansing from 
the bottom, the lime boil is quite necessary. 



Progress in Cotton Spinning and Weaving. 

Great progress has been made in this country in 
spinning and Weaving fabrics of Nos. 60 to 100, such as 
lawns and fine dress goods ; also spinning fine yarns for 
spool cotton. Yarns as fine as 80 to 180 are now spun on 
ring-spinning frames, which are being more largely 
used for warp-spinning than any other. This machine 
was invented here, and is now also used in Europe. 
Yarns as fine as 650 are spun on mules for three-cord 
sewing cotton. The cotton factories of the Carolinas 
and Georgia are said to have twice the advantage of 
Lancashire that New England possesses. 



Cloth Selvages. 

Nothing adds more to the appearance of a piece of 
cloth than a good selvage. Whether the cloth is to be 
used by the consumer in a gray, or in some finished 
state, a good selvage is equally a desideratum. " In those 
countries where gray calicoes are used for clothing, with- 
out passing through the hands of tailors or dressmakers, 
where civilization has made more or less progress, 
an even, clean selvage is, necessarily, of vital importance. 
In goods which undergo some process of finishing be- 
fore they are purchased by the consumers, the qualities 
required to form a perfect selvage have to be considered 
from another standpoint. In these goods the selvages 
are usually cut away when the material is being made 
up into a garment. Ladies, however, when purchasing 
goods, whether made of silk, wool or cotton, hesitate be- 
fore buying a piece of material which is bordered by 
even one ragged selvage, rightly judging that a manu- 
facturer who would be content to produce cloth thus 
imperfectly made, could not be trusted to turn out 
pieces free from imperfections between the selvages." 



108 

Influence of Ligtt on Dyed Colors. 

The chemical activity of the sun's rays is well known, 
and certain unstable mordant solutions seem to be 
decomposed and precipitated more readily under the 
influence of light. It is not surprising, therefore, to 
find that light should also have a very marked effect 
upon dyed colors. Under the prolonged influence of 
light and air almost all colors fade, and according to 
their relative behavior in this respect they are broadly 
divided into two classes, namely, those which are "fast 
to light" and those which are "not fast to light." 

Each of the colored rays of the spectrum possesses a 
different fading power. White light is the most active, 
then follow the yellow, blue, green, orange, violet and 
red rays. Direct sunlight is more energetic than dif- 
fused daylight. The light of the electric art acts in the 
same sense as sunlight, but is less powerful. 

According to the best authorities on colors, the 
presence of oxygen and moisture assists very materially 
in the fading action of light, so that even some fugitive 
colors, dyed, for example, with safflower, anuatto, orchid, 
do not fade if exposed to light in dry oxygen, or in 
vacuo. 



Definition of Tones, Scales and Hues of Colors. 

Tone of a color is intended exclusively to designate 
the various modifications which that color, in its greatest 
intensity, is capable of receiving from white, which lowers 
its tone, or of Hack, which heightens it. 

Scale is applied to the assemblage of tones of the same 
color thus modified. The pure color is the normal tone 
of the scale, that is, if the normal tone does not belong to a 
scale of which all the tones are made dull with black. 

Hue is applied exclusively to the modifications which 
a color receives from the addition of a small quantity 
of another. 

Colors are distinguished as pure, broken, reduced, gray 
or dull. Pure colors are those termed simple, as red, 
yellow, blue, and those which result from their binary 
compounds, orange, green, violet and other hues. 

Broken colors are the pure colors mixed with black, 
from the tone of the lightest to the deepest. — Chevreul. 



109 

Electricity in Printing Cottons. 

The application of the electrical current to the pro- 
duction of coloring matters, or for the fixation of dye- 
stu£fs in dyeing and calico printing, according to San- 
sone, has attracted considerable attention in the last 
few years at the hands of chemists. 

" The application of electricity for the developing or 
fixing coloring matters is based upon the chemical pro- 
cesses largely utilized in printing, viz., oxidation and 
reduction, and when it is remembered that' both pro- 
cesses can be separately effected by the electrical cur- 
rent, we can easily imagine that all the colors which can 
be produced by oxidation or reduction ought to be ob- 
tained by the electrical process. 

" Consequently we have of the oxidation colors or of 
the methods relying on oxidation, the following: Ana- 
line black, persulphocyanogen yellow (canarin), the 
discharge of indigo or turkey red, and the formation of 
some coloring matters, such as alizarin from anthra- 
quinone, etc., the bleaching of vegetable fibres and 
formation of oxycellulose being also possible by the same 
process. 

" In the reduction processes, of course, is concluded 
the preparation of an indigo vat for dyeing, and the 
investigator has also tried to print indigo in a direct 
way on calico, by utilizing the reducing action of the 
current in the color box. He has also aimed at pro- 
ducing an electrical printing machine, by which colors 
could be fixed on calico by the electrolitic direct pro- 
cess, but, as said before, we must wait awhile before we 
can pass any judgment over the feasibility of electrical 
application in calico printing. 

" So far, however, electricity has been utilized in calico 
printing, but in a different manner from the galvan- 
oplastic processes, and depositing either copper or iron 
shell rollers, thus producing printing rollers with a 
copper layer at a very low cost; or for the commonly 
called galvanizing process, by coating the ordinary cop- 
per roller with a thin layer of nickel, in order to render 
them more liable to stand acid colors. The gilding of 
copper rollers has scarcely ever been employed, but 
considering the low cost of depositing a very thin film 
of gold, which can be done by the modern galvanoplas- 
tic process, it is a matter well worth trying for those roll- 
ers which are used for printing very acid colors." 



110 

Calico in the rorm of Sateen. 
Calico in its new form and under the name of sateen, 
is the same fabric, with the same material and process 
of printing, except that sateen is woven on three, four 
or five harness, which enables the manufacturer to make 
what is called a warp or satin face. French sateen is, in 
weaving parlance, " quarter satin " — both these fabrics 
take their name from the method or manner of weaving. 
.Satin is woven on sixteen harness, with fifteen threads 
up every time a filling pick is thrown in ; while sateen 
is woven on four harness, usually with three -warp 
threads up every time a filling pick goes in. 



Cotton Industry of the World in 1888. 
The following figures are given for the spindles, looms 
and thread-spindles of the industrial countries of the 
world in 1888: Spindles— England, 42,740,000; Euro- 
pean Continent, 23,380,000; United States, 13,525,000; 
East India, 2,490,000; total, 82,135,000. There were be- 
sides, in Canada, Mexico and South - America some 
600,000, and in Japan, 100,000; grand total, 82,825,000. 
On the European Continent, Germany occupied the first 
place with about 5,500,000 spindles, France being second 
with 5,200,000. The total number of mechanical looms 
in Europe in 1888 was estimated at 1,000,000, of which 
about 600,000 were in England. 



Effect of Heat on Cotton Fabrics. 
Recent experiments have shown that cotton may be 
heated to 248 deg. F., for three hours, without apparent 
injury. The same may be said of printed cottons. The 

same temperature, however, will, if continued for a 
longer period, slightly change the color of cotton, but 
will not otherwise injure it, 

^9^ 

Cotton Consumed in Manufacturing. 
The estimated annual consumption of cotton in Eng- 
land, for the past ten years, has been 1,416,440,000 
pounds, as against 770,343,200 pounds for the United 
States. England requires rather more cotton than all 
the rest of the Continent of Europe put together, the 
total of the combined countries amounting to no more 
than 1,295,600,000 pounds annually. 



Ill 




112 

Early Britisli Oottou Industries. 

The quantity of cotton imported into England, ac- 
cording to tlie custom-house returns of that countrj^ 
from 1701 to 1800, inclusive, is given as follows: 

Tears. Pounds. Years. Pounds. 

1701 1,985,868 1751 2,976,610 

1701 to 1705— av. 1,170,881 1764 3,870,392 

1710 715,008 1771 to 1775 4,764,589 

1720 1,972,805 1776 to 1780 6,766,613 

1730 1,545,472 1790 31,447,605 

1741 1,645,031 1800 56,010,732 

EXPORTS OF COTTONS FEOM 1701 TO 1800. 

The value of British cottons exported from 1701 to 
1800, inclusive, was as below: 

OFFICIAL VALUE. 

Years. £. Years. £. 

1701 23,253 1764 200,354 

1710 5,698 1766 220,759 

1720 16,200 1780 355,060 

1730 13,524 1787 1,101,457 

1741 20,709 1790 1,662,359 

1751 45,986 1800 5,406,501 

COTTON CONSUMED IN ENGLAND IN 1787. 

The purposes for which cotton was used in the year 
1787 are thus stated: 

Pounds. 

Calicoes and Muslins 11,600,000 

Fustians 6,000 000 

Mixtures with silk and linen 2,000,000 

Hosiery 1,500,000 

Candlewicks 1,500,000 

Total 22,600,000 

VALUE OF ENGLISH COTTON MANUFACTUBES IN 1767 AND 

1787. 

The value of English cotton manufactures in 1767 
and 1787 is shown in the annexed table: 

1767 £600,000 

1787 3,304,371 

The above shows an increase in the twenty years of 
5^ fold. In 1787 the number of cotton mills in Eng- 
land was 119, and in Scotland, Wales, and Isle of Man, 
24, making altogether 143 mills or factories. 

ENGLISH AND SCOTCH COTTON POWER LOOMS IN 1820 AND 

1829. 

In 1820 and 1829, the number of cotton power looms 
in England and Scotland was given as below: 

1820. 1829. 

In England 12,150 45,500 

In Scotland 2,000 10,000 

Total 14,150 55,500 



113 
COTTON POWER LOOMS OF GRKAT BRITAIN IN 1833. 

In 1833 the showing of cotton power looms in Great 
Britain was as follows: 

In England 85,000 

In Scotland , 15,000 

Total 100,000 



EARLY RESTRICTIONS ON CALICO PRINTING IN ENGLAND. 

As regards calico printing in England, the business 
was subjected to onerous duties and vexatious excise 
regulations from its infancy to 1831. 

In 1700, Act 11 and 12, T. illiam III., Cap. 10, forbade 
the introduction of Indian printed calicoes into !Eng- 
land, for domestic use, either as apparel or furniture, 
under penalty of £200 on the wearer or seller; other 
acts for the same purpose were passed at a later date. 
In their petition to His Majesty's Privy Council for 
trade in 1831, the natives of Bengal, India, state that 
Bengal cottons, when used in England, are charged 
with a duty of 10 per cent. There was also levied up to 
that time in England an excise duty on English printed 
calicoes of 3^d. per yard. 

In 1712 Parliament imposed an excise duty of 3d. per 
square on "calicoes printed," stained, painted, or dyed," 
and in 1714 the duty was raised to 6d. per square yard. 
In 1720 Parliament prohibited the use or wear of any 
printed or dyed calicoes whatsoever, whetjtier printed at 
home or abroad, and even of any goods in which cotton 
found a part; excepting only " calicoes dyed all blue, 
and muslins, heck cloths, and fustians." 

In 1736 (by the 9th, George II., C. 4,) so much of the 
act of 1720 was repealed as forbade the use or wear of 
printed goods of a mixed kind containing cotton; and 
thenceforth cloths were made and printed of linen warp 
and cotton weft, probably approaching in appearance 
to calicoes. 

In 1774 Parliament removed the prohibition as re- 
gards English calicoes and allowed them to be printed 
on paying an excise duty of 3d. per square jard. In 
1779 and^l782 three several additions of 5 per cent., 
making on the whole 15 per cent., were made to that 
duty. 



114 

DUTIES ON COTTONS AND MIXED GOODS IN 1784. 

In 1784, the Act 24, George III., C. 40, laid a new duty 
on all cottons and mixed goods of Id. per yard, of 
bleached or printed, under 3s. per yard in value, and 
2d. on all above that value — in addition to the former 
duties of 3d. per yard; and 15 per cent, additiona 
was charged on new duties as well as on the old. 

In 1785, owing to the opposition of the cotton manu- 
facturers, a short bill (25, Geo. III., C. 24,) was passed 
by Parliament, repealing all the new duties imposed by 
the previous bill on the linen and cotton manufactures. 
By the 25, Geo. III., C. 72, all cottons, muslins, and 
stuffs of which cotton formed a part, when printed, 
painted, dyed, or stained, were made liable to an ad- 
ditional duty of 2d. per yard, if of the value of Is. 8d. 
and not more than 3s, per yard; and to a duty of 4d. 
per yard, if worth more than 3s. The addition of 15 
per cent, was also charged upon these duties, as well as 
upon the duty of 3d. per yard imposed in 1774. There- 
fore the duties stood thus: 

ADDED DUTIES ON COTTONS IN 1785, 
Duty Additional 15 per cent. 





imposed 


imposed 


on the 


Total 




in 1774. 


in 1785. 


whole. 


Duty. 




Per yard. 


Per yard. 


Per yard. 


Per yard. 


Above the value 










of Is. 8d., and 










not above 3s. 










per yard. ..... 


3d. 


2d. 


fd. 


5|d. 


Above the value 










of 3s. per yard. 


3d. 


4d. 


lid. 


8id. 



CONSOLIDATION OF BRITISH CUSTOMS IN 1787. 

On the consolidation of the British customs in 1787 
all former duties were repealed, and cotton, linen, or 
mixed goods of any kind were subjected to a duty of 
3^d. per square yard, when printed or dyed. The 
whole duty was returned by drawback on the exporta- 
tion of the goods. At the same time, foreign calicoes 
and muslins were charged with a duty of 7d. per square 
yard, when printed or dyed in Great Britain. 

The duties fixed in 1787 continued till 1831, when, on 
the earnest representations of the calico printers, .thej' 
were entirely remitted, and released the trade from the 
shackles of the excise. 



115 
BRITISH CALICOES AND MUSLINS PRINTED IN 1796 AND 1800. 

The calicoes and muslins printed in Great Britain 
in 1796 and 1800 were as follows: 

Bate 
of 1796. 1800. 

In England. Duty, yards. yards. 

Foreign calicoes and muslins. 7d. 1,750,270 1,577,536 
British " * ♦* •' 3|d. 24,363,240 28,692,790 

In Scotland. 
Foreign calicoes and muslins. 7d. 141,403 78,868 

British «' " *' 3id. 4,258,557 4,176,939 

EXPORTATION AND CONSUMPTION OF BRITISH CALICOES, ETC., 

IN 1814, 1820, AND 1830. 
The accompanying table gives the printing, home 
consumption, and exportation of British calicoes, mus- 
lins, etc., in 1814, 1820, and 1830. (The average duty 
per piece was 5s., which, when exported, was refunded). 

Consumed 
Printed. at home. Exported. 

Years. Pieces. Pieces. Pieces. 

1814 5,192,228 1,868,068 3,324,160 

1820 5,456,196 1,728,340 3,727,820 

1825 8,140,876 2,015,972 4,082,684 

1830 8,596,952 2,281,512 6,315,440 

SELLING PRICES OF COTTON IN ENGLAND IN 1780. 

In 1780, the prices at which cotton sold in England 

are given as follows: 

Per Pound. 
B. d. 

Berbice 2 1 

Demarara 1 11 to 2s. Id. 

Surinam 2 

Cayenne ' 2 

St. Domingo 1 10 

Tabago 1 9 

Jamaica 1 7 

Isle of Bourbon 7 6 to 10s. 

■ ^ > » ■ 

Three Operations in Dyeing Cotton. 

The dyeing of cotton usually requires three distinct 
operations, namely, the impregnation of the fibre: first 
with tannic acid, secondly with nitrate of iron, stamic 
chloride, or tartar emetic, and thirdly, with the solution 
of coloring matter, 



116 

Cotton Manufacturing Districts of Great Britain. 

Blackburn is the most northern of those districts in 
England which take an important part in the cotton 
goods industry. It takes the lead in Lancashire, with 
regard to its importance as an exclusively cotton manu- 
facturing town, says Prof. Brooks. The class of goods 
made there are of a plain character, principally shirtings, 
mulls and jaconets, while a large number of looms are 
engaged on dhooties. 

Darwen weaving industry is of a similar character, 
and there is a fair trade in yarn by several sale-spinning 
mills, 

Preston and Chorley have a connection with goods of 
a distinctly finer and more " fancy" character, such as 
leno, velveteen, damasks, embroidery and brocades, 
while the plain trade, including the well-known home 
made shirting, is important. Here also the spinning 
trade is comparatively small, the yarns spun being 40 — 
80's T and 4:0-90's W. 

Burnley is remarkable for the recent increase of cot- 
ton manufacturing within its borough, and has a most 
extensive trade in Burnley printers and shirtings, with 
a few heavy twills ranking second to Blackburn in 
quantity produced. 

Accrington, Harwood and district have a plain trade, 
but in yarns the goods are of a much finer character 
than other plain districts. A large business is done in 
the better classes of printers for the supply of the local 
print and dyeworks. 

Bolton has centered in it the spinning of medium 
fine yarns, 40 — 200's, from Egyptian cotton, also the 
manufacture of heavy fancy goods, especially Alhambras, 
Marseilles, and other counterpanes and towels, with 
some finer fancies of leno, damasks and velvets, although 
many mills are to be found engaged in Blackburn goods. 

Haslingden, Bacup, Kawtenstall, and many smaller 
districts in East Lancashire are engaged in manufac- 
tures of coarse and heavily-sized goods, shirtings, T- 
cloths, wigans and domestics. 

Manchester, while being pre-eminently the English 
market of the manufactured cotton goods, is also known 
as the locality where the finest yarns known to com- 
merce are spun, i.e., yarns from Egypt and Sea Island 
cottons, 80— 200's in twists and 80— 350's in weft. The 



117 
finer numbers, however, are not used for the ordinary 
purposes of manufacturing, their consumption being 
divided between the lace curtain manufactories of Not- 
tingham and the great sewing thread factories. 

The "weaving trade of Manchester consists of checks, 
ginghams, Harvard and Oxford shirtings mostly. 

Oldham is the spinning town. Here the coarsest 
yarns, 4:-24's, made out of the waste from finer mills, 
have their spinning centre, and here the spinning of 
medium yarns from American cotton has made the name 
of the town familiar wherever English cotton yarn is 
known. 

Rochdale depends mainly on the coarse trade, 12-24 
wraps (water T) made from Indian cotton, together with 
some mule spinning up to 30-40's. The weaving of the 
heaviest cotton goods from waste, twills, sheets, T-cloths, 
velveteens, fustian and cords is here carried on. 

Mossley, 30-50's, wrap yarn ; Shaw Lees, Eoyton, 
Dukinfield, Ashton, Heywood and Hyde, may be placed 
in the same category as Oldham, minus the waste trade. 

Stalybridge spins 30-150's. 

Stockport has good trade in spinning, as high as ISO's 
gassed and doubled yarns with varied weaving, includ- 
ing the well-known Turkish towels. 

Cotton weaving extends no further into Yorkshire 
than Todmordeo, and about 2,000,000 spinning and 
doubling spindles are in use about Halifax, Brighouse, 
Sowery Bridge and district, these being employed on 
yarns for dress fabrics made of a mixture of cotton and 
worsted, as well as for cotton and hosiery in the Not- 
tingham and Leicester districts. 

In Scotland the cotton trade is confined to the coun- 
ties of Lanark, Renfrew and Ayr. The doubling spindles 
there are on the increase, especially for the Paisley 
thread trade. The weaving department is also increas- 
ing, there being in 1888 in the three counties 28,853 
looms, as compared with 20,963 in 1856. Superior classes 
of cloth are made for the home trade — fine reeds, fine 
muslin, plain and figured — and the manufacture of 
Turkey reds is also extensive. 

In Ireland there are three cotton-spinning firms, 
three cotton-weaving firms, and one both spinning and 
weaving, with a total of 70,900 spindles and 2,501 power 
looms. 

Summarizing the different classes of work into which 
the cotton industry of England is divided, we may allot 
to the coarse plain trade the Rossendale Valley and 
Rochdale, locating the medium plain trade in Black- 
burn, Burnley and Darwen, with the finest plain goods 
in Accrington and Preston, the light fancy trade in 
Preston, Chorley and Ashton, and the heavy fancy in 
Bolton and Bury. — British Cotton Mfg. 



118 

Varieties of British Cotton Cloth. 

The principal makes of British cotton cloth are given 
by C. P. Brooks, M. S. A., as follows: 

SHIKTINGS. 

Shirtings are heavily-sized goods, 125 per cent, not 
being nnusiial. The widths vary from 38 to 50 inches, 
length always 37J yards, long stick, Keed and pick 
from 12 square to 16x15. These goods are made to 
weight thus : A 39-inch, 16x15, weighs 8 lb. ; a 45-inch, 
9 lb. ; a 50-inch, 10 lb. Various kinds are made, some 
medium-sized. What is known as Indian shirting is 
the heavy-sized class. 

Shirtings are exported to India, China, Japan, 
Turkey, Italy, Levant. A good class is made, bleached, 
and exported to Egypt, Japan, India and China, as 
white shirtings. 

DHOOTIES. 

Dhooties are shirtings ornamented by stripes of graj' 
or colored yarn, and in suitable lengths for Hindoo loin 
cloths. The stripes are of a Varied character in gray 
dhooties, being simply tape edges formed by cramping 
gray or bleached yarn at the selvage. In colored dhoo- 
ties, stripes of vari-colored warps are introduced about 
an inch from the edge of the cloth, and varying from ^ 
an inch in width to 4 inches, sometimes being intro- 
duced at intervals all across the piece. 

A range of dhooties includes all widths from 22 to 50 
inches, and the length of scarf varying from 2 yards in 
the smaller size to 5 yards in the larger. A scarf is the 
distance between the headings, which in these goods is 
very extensive, sometimes reaching to 20 inches in 
length at the junction of the two scarfs : 

A Eange — 22 inches and 23 inches 2-yard scarf. 

24 " 25 " 2^ " 

26 *' 28 " 3 " 

29 ',' 32 " 3J " " 

35 inches , 4 " 

The higher widths being variously 4^ or 5 yards. 

Dhooties are made up in about 40-yard lengths; thiis 
a piece 44 inches wide would contain 4 double scarfs. 
The 5'arns employed vary similarly to shirtings, from 30s 
to 40s warp, 36s to 60s wefts. 



119 
HINDOO AND JAVANESE CLOTHS. 

The dress of a male Hindoo consists of a dhootie con- 
taining 4 square yards, a doputtaof 8 square yards, and 
a turban of 12 square yards, while in addition the Hin- 
doo woman wears a sarrie, a similar cloth to the dhootie. 
India is the recipient of the dhooties in greatest quan- 
tity. Savongs go to Java ; patadiongs to the Philippines. 

To this class of shirtings belong long-cloths, mediums, 
wigans (plain and twill), double wraps and twills. Ex- 
port long cloths arc plain goods, shirting style, 36 yards 
long, generally 36 inches wide, 12 square, medium size. 

T CLOTHS, MEXICANS AND MADAPOIiLAMS. 

T-cloths are always 24 yards in length, of coarse yarns, 
heavily sized, from 28 to 32 inches wide, 12x10 to 16x16, 
4 lb. and 6 lb. in weight. 

Domestics for export are from 28 to 39 inches, 60, 72, 
80 or 96 yards. Warp, 18-24's; weft 16-40's; and from 
14 to 16 reed and pick; medium to heavy size. A better 
class is made for the home trade. 

Mexicans are of better quality than the foregoing, and 
are always above 17x17 reed and pick, yarns, twist, 
coarse; weft, medium; medium size; 28 to 32 inches in 
width. 

Madapollams are lighter in reed and pick than the 
foregoing, being about 11 and 12 square: width 28 to 32 
inches, and similar in length to the T-cloths and Mexi- 
cans ; sized medium. 

TURKEY BEDS AND PBINTEBS. 

Dyeing and printing cloths form an important de- 
partment. 

Turkey reds, like printers, are cloths of good quality. 
Shirting counts and widths, but about twice the length; 
pure size. 

Printers, Burnley make, sometimes dubbed Burnley 
lumps, are 32 inches, 116 yards, 16x16, 32's to 50's yarn. 
Quality important, yarns good, lightly sized, warps 
even and hard twisted, weft free from unevenness, 
snarls, etc. 

Glossop printers, 36 inches, 19x22 ; 50 yards, llf lbs. 

These are not the only descriptions of printers, coarse 
cloth of varied dimensions being required, which, when 
stamped with patterns of every conceivable style, are 
exported to India, Persia, Italy, Brazil, -Levant, Java and 
Japan. 



120 
TANJIBS, JACONKTS, MULLS, CAMBRICS, ETC. 

In light goods, tanjibs, jaconets, mulls and cambrics 
maybe classed together. 

Tanjibs are the coarsest ; 30 to 50 inches wide, 38 
yards long, 32s to 40s ; lightly sized. 

Jaconets and nainsooks are finer ; 39 to 44 inches, 
14x14 to 16x16, 32s to 50s ; always 20 yards long. 

Mulls are somewhat similar in style ; 39 to 50 inches 
wide, 20 yards, 16x16 to 20x20, from 60s to 100s, yarn ; 
pure size. 

Cambrics are the finest of the group, generally wide 
from 24 square to 36 square, 80s to 160s, yarn ; pure 
size. 

Turkey, India, China, Japan, Eoumania, the Levant, 
Egypt are all customers for these four cloths. 

Book and tarletan muslins are very fine home trades. 

A variety of cambric called embroidery cloth is largely 
made in some districts. It is of first-class quality, 
usually about 50 inches wide and cut up into short 
lengths. 

SHEETINGS, GINGHAMS, CHECKS, ETC. 

Sheetings are very wide goods — 60 to 100 inches. The 
yarns are coarse, generally 12s to 20s, although fine 
sheetings are frequently made. 

Waste plains are coarse goods woven with yarn spun 
from waste. 

Ginghams, checks, zephyrs, although colored goods, 
are of plain weave and of unclassifiable dimensions. 

Other plain cloths, needing little remark in conse- 
quence of their unimportance, are: 

Inches. Yards. Square. 

Tarletan Muslin 52 40 13 

Chambray, 28 30 27x22 

Hair-cord Muslin 59 24 20x22 

Wrapped one twofold and one fine single. 

Blue Mottle 27 96 16x11 

Blue warp, white weft. 
Victoria lawns, fine goods and Tafiechelas, formerly 
important goods, are now in little request. 

DRILLS, ETC. 

Cotton cloths other than plain: 

Drills — Heavy 3-shaft twills, narrow, heavily sized. 
Exported chiefly to China; few to Cyprus, Levant, Tur- 
key and Brazil. 



121 
CEETONNES, JEAMS, SATEENS, ETC. 

Cretonnes— Printed twill, made from coarse was4;e 
wefts, finer warps, various widths, generally narrow. 
Home trade ; also exported to Turkey and British 
colonies. 

Jeans— Finer 3-shaft twills, plain borders, narrow, 
for printing or finishing. 

Sateens— 5-shaft broken twills, 30 to 36 inches, 75 
to 90 yards, 70 to 96 reed, 40 to 80 picks, 36s to 80s 
weft. 

Velveteens— Narrow, heavy-picked cloths, from 90 to 
120 to the quarter-inch, yarns fine and best quality, 80 
to 100 yards. Home trade and general export. 

COBDS, FUSTIANS, CORDUROYS, ETC. 

Cords, Fustians, Corduroys— Heavy, figured cloths, 
20s yarn, 90 to 140 picks * to a quarter-inch, 70 to 90 
yards. 

Brocades— Fancy jacquard goods; 38 inches, 75 yards; 
72 to 96 reed, 20 to 26 picks. 

Doriah Stripes— Cloth carrying crammed stripes— not 
in color— are often narrow, 26 to 30 inches, 10 yards 
long, 12 to 30 reed by 13 to 14 picks; yarn, 40s to 50s 
T, and finer wefts. 

Leno— Narrow, generally 30 inches, 24 to 40 yards, 
very variable in reed and pick; yarns. 

In white check we find: 

Figured Checks— 30 to 36 inches, 13x16 to 18x20; 12 
yards single cuts. 

Inches. Yards. 

Satin check 40 32 16x20 

Tape check-. 36 24 22x20 

37 48 20x24 

STANDABD MAKES OF BRITISH COTTONS. 

_ Reed and Yarn or Weight 

Width. Length. Pick. Lbs. 

Shirtings 39 37J 16x15 30- 36s Si 

T-cloths 32 24 14x14 6 

Mexicans 32 24 18x18 ... 7 

Jaconets 44 20 14x14 40- 50s 

Mulls 50 20 20x20 80-lOOs 

Domestics.... 29 80 14x14 18- 18s 

Dhooties 44 40 16x15 30- 40s 

Printers 32 116 16x16 32- 50s 



* Where reed and pick are given, it must be understood 
as referring to a quarter of an inch, unless otherwise specified. 
Thus— 12 X 10 means 12 ends and 10 picks in a quarter of an inch, 
or 48 ends and 40 picks per inch. 



122 




American Cotton Plant, 

(short staple.) 
This species of cotton is cultivated in the United 
States. Its stem rises to the heighth of two or three 
feet, then divaricates into boughs, which bristle with 
hairs. The leaves are also hairy on their inferior sur- 
faces, and are three or five lobed. The upper leaves 
are entire or heart-shaped ; the petroles are velvety. 
The flowers near the extremities of the boughs are large 
and somewhat dingy in color. The capsules are ovate, 
four-celled, and nearly as large as a moderate sized 
apple, and yield a fine silky cotton of short staple. The 
seeds are greenish. 



123 

Cotton Manufactures of France, 
In 1880 France exported cotton yarns and cotton fab- 
rics, as follows: Value. 

Cotton Yarns $725,258 

Cotton Fabrics $15,822,999 

The cotton mills or factories of France in 1878, ac- 
cording to the report of the French government pub- 
lished in that year, represented the following: 

Cotton spinning mills 417 

" spinning and weaving 76 

" weaving .,^,. 564 

^ Total 1,058 

They employed operatives : Men.... 44,092 

Women 33,513 

ChUdi-en 19,483 

Total 97,088 

Cotton spindles : In operation 4, 552, 392 

Not in operation 281,734 

Total 4,834,126 

Cotton power-looms : In operation 57,828 

Not in operation 4,322 

Total 62,150 

Cotton hand-looms 50,578 

In 1880 there were imported into France cotton yarns 
to the value of $6,319,792, and cotton fabrics, $13,284,83. 



G-erman Cotton Manufacturing Interests. 

According to the most reliable German statistical 
authorities, the cost of cotton mills in that country in 
1877 varied from $10.59 to $15.47 per spindle. 

The official statistics of the German Empire, about the 
same date, make the follo\ying exhibit: 

Cotton hand spindles 1,613,318 

" self-acting spindles 4,602,103 

" water " 862,135 

" twist " 548,060 

" weaving looms, Jacquard power 16,333 

" " " ^' hand 9,852 

" " " power .. 111,046 

" " " hand 29,948 

" bobbin machines, power 1,588 

hand 304 

' ' embroidery machines, power , . . . . 76 

hand 1,344 

" bobbinet " power...... 455 

" hand 202 

According to the census report of Germany in 1875, 
there were in that country at that date, the following: 

Cotton spinning and weaving factories 104,619 

Cotton operatives 296,827 

From the annexed statement it will be seen that in 
the foregoing enumeration, what we would term petty 
or household enterprises, are dignified in Germany with 
the title of " factories." 

In cotton weaving alone 97,588 establishments em- 
ployed 203,489 operatives. 

Cotton factories, which employed more than 5 hands 
in each, had an aggregate of 4,265,336 spindles. 



124 

Cotton Industries of Norway, Sweden, Austria, Switzer- 
land, Holland, Belgium, Spain and Italy. 
The following is given as about the number of cotton 
spindles in Sweden and Norway, Austria, Switzerland, 
Holland, Belgium, Spain and Italy in 1880 : 

Total Con- 
Number Pounds sumption 
Cotton Cotton per Pounds 
Countries. Spindles. Spindle. Cotton. 

Sweden and Norway .. . 305,000 65 19,825,000 

Austria 1,555,000 67 104,185,000 

Switzerland 1,850,000 25 46,250,000 

Holland 230,000 60 13,800,000 

Belgium 800,000 50 40,000,000 

Spain 1,750,000 46 80,500,000 

Italy 800,000 56 44,800,000 

Total 7,290,000 349,360,000 

Capacity of Some of our Cotton Bagging Mills. 
The capacity of the cotton bagging factories in Ala- 
bama is said to be sufficient to supply the demand for 
cotton bagging in this country. In 1889 these mills 
were turning out 30,000 yards a day, which can be in- 
creased to 45,000 yards per day. The cotton bagging 
which they produce is said to weigh about three-quarters 
of a pound to the yard of forty-four inches wide, and 
the cost of the same per bale .of cotton to the planter 
averages somewhere in the neighborhood of eighty cents. 



Tenuity of Cotton Pibres. 
Some idea of the tenuity of the cotton fibres may be 
formed when it is remembered that 14,000 to 20,000 in- 
dividual filaments of American cotton only weigh one 
grain, so that there are about 140,000,000 to every pound, 
and each hair only weighs on the average about the 
1-17000 part of a grain, and if the separate fibres wei-e 
placed end to end in a straight line, one pound would 
reach 2,200 miles. 



How to Distinguish Cotton from Flax, 

To distinguish cotton from flax, dip the mixture in a 

boiling solution of caustic potassa, and let it remain for 

two minutes. The flax will assume a dark yellow color, 

while the cotton will be a light yellow, or nearly white. 



125 

Russian Cotton Industry. 

The cotton industry of Russia is without 
the most important trade of that country, 
seen from the annexed synoptical table: 
^-No. of mills— A 



exception 
as will be 



1887. 



^ 


CO 

>7-i 


^ 


fp 


HH» 


n> 


p 


P 


p 


< 


e 


<i 








p 


P 


P 


0^3 


(JCJ 


Ut5 



1877. 

P" 
P_ 

Name of the govern- cnj 

ment or province. : I ; • 

Petersburg 13 10 12 11 

Moscow... 18 35 24 34 

Vladimir 10 29 11 36 

Tver 4 5 5 6 

Jaroslav 112 1 

Ziasan 13 14 

Smolensk 1 1 1 1 

Kostroma - 9 1 

Tifls 11 

Kazan 1 1 . . . . 

Kalouga 1 

Kherson 11 

Poland 9 6 13 8 

Perm 1 1 . .. 

Bait, provs 4 3 4 6 

Finland 3 2 3 2 



Number of 
— spindles — 



1877. 
750,120 
640,426 
402,698 
210,656 
103,550 
95,189 
26,676 



1887. 
791,978 
960,706 
537,594 
235,181 
189,744 
140,800 
66,292 



15 30,192 

.... 10,800 



Number of 

power 

, — looms — , 

1877. 1887. 

6,606 8,554 

16,283 24,205 

13,421 90,987 

5,053 6,139 

944 

349 

500 

3,675 



1,002 

1,693 

780 

6,716 



5,564 
4,200 

216,640 
2,500 

281,488 
56,576 



35 



10,638 
505,622 

348,362 
84,864 



122 

4,417 10,573 

75 

2,016 2,237 
1,192 1,225 



Total 67 106 79 123 2,796,283 2,912,806 54,566 84,516 

The cotton weaving establishments in Eussia give 
employment to over 80,500 hands, the total annual 
production being estimated at 56,000,000 roubles. 

About 360,000,000 pounds weight of cotton are an- 
nually imported into Russia, being mainly derived 
from America and Egypt. The territory acquired in 
Central Asia by Eussia is well suited for the cultivation 
of cotton. 



Cotton Industries of Syria. 

One of the most important articles produced by the 
native population of Syria is what is known as "mab- 
roum," a thin cotton tissue with a loose weft, which 
serves for making clothing. It is stated that in former 
times as much as 300,000 pieces of this material used to 
be produced in Damascus annually, but this branch of 
tlie textile industry has been gradually transferred to 
Homs, Hama and Broussa, and the quality of the goods 
has already deteriorated considerably. 



126 

Cotton Mills of Brazil. 

Twenty of the cotton mills of the Empire are located in 
the province of Minas Geraes, twelve in Sao Paulo, fif- 
teen in the city and province of B,io de Janiero, and the 
rest are scattered throughout the country, The largest 
is the Brazil Industrial Factory, which is located at 
Macacos, in the province of Rio de Janiero, which runs 
eight hundred looms and employs five hundred hands. 
The capital stock of the company is $1,6^50,000, and the 
shares are now quoted at about fifteen per cent, below par. 
The company is in debt and has issued debentures to 
the amount of $550,000, on which it pays interest to the 
amount of $19,000 every six months. 

Another large factory is the Petropolitana, also in Kio 
de Janiero, whose capital is $1,100,000, and which has 
recently enlarged its plant to the value of over $3,500,000. 
The Bink Factory in Kio de Janiero is another large 
mill in which $800,000 capital is invested, and employs 
four hundred workmen. It produces an annual aver- 
age of 1,300,000 yards of cotton goods, 220,000 yards of 
woolen goods, and 65,000 yards of felt. 



Canadian Cotton Goods Industry. 

In the year 1879 the quantity of raw cotton brought 

into Canada to be manufactured into fabrics was only 

7,243,413 lbs., while in 1887 the quantity imported 

reached 30,971,170 lbs., an increase of 23,737,657 lbs. In 

1879 the imports of gray and bleached cotton fabrics 

into Canada from Great Britain and the United States 

amounted to 12,771,896 yards, of the value of $971,685. 

The importation of this class of cottons in the fiscal 

year 1888 was only 1,634,190 yards, of the value of 

$174,873. 

■ - ^t^ • 

Swiss Cotton Industry. 
In 1889 there were in Switzerland 92 spinning firms, 
running 1,722,299 spindles, or 119,094 spindles less than 
in 1884 ; there were 58 firms engaged in the doubling 
branch, running 73,545 spindles, or 8,455 spindles less 
than in 1884 ; 65 firms were engaged in the production 
of white or gray woven goods, running 16,800 looms, or 
304 more than in 1884 ; and 44 firms were engaged in 
the production of colored goods (regattas, ginghams, 
etc.), running 6,921 looms, or 196 less than in 1884. 



127 

Kinds and Qualities of Cotton Produced Throughout 
the World. 

Cotton in commerce is known by its color, the length 
of its staple or fibre, and its strength and fineness. A 
white color is generally considered to be characteristic 
of an inferior quality. The cotton of Smyrna, 
Cypress, Salonica, and all parts of the Levant is 
distinguished by its white color. The chief part of 
the North American cotton is also white, viz. : New 
Orleans, Tennessee, Alabama and Georgia Upland. 
Yellow, when not the effect of accidental wetting, or 
the result ^of an inclement season, is an indication of 
fineness and strength. The cotton of the West Indies 
and South America is called yellow, but its color is not 
quite yellow, and inclines more to a cream color. East 
India cotton has a slight tinge of orange. The fine Geor- 
gia Sea Island, though not properly a yellow cotton, has 
a faint but decided tinge of yellow, which distinguishes 
it from the white short staple of America. 

The following gives a synopsis of the general char- 
acter, together with varieties of the same, cultivated 
throughout the world : 

■^ AMEKICAN (U. S.) COTTON. 

Upland Cotton is produced in the inland districts of 
Virginia, North and South Carolina, Georgia, Tennessee, 
Alabama, Mississippi, Texas, and other States. It is 
generally a light, flimsy cotton, of a weak and very un- 
equal staple, and having one intermixture of long 
fibres. 

New Oiieans Cotton is superior to the Upland, and has 
the preference, on account of its clean, soft and glossy 
appearance. It is rather short in staple, but is even 
and strong, and is easily incorporated with other cottons 
of a long staple. It is grown on the banks of the Mis- 
sissippi and Eed rivers, and is exported in very large 
quantities to the British and French markets, where it 
ranks in price and quality equally with the Brazil cotton. 
Upland, Alabama and Tennessee rank next to New Or- 
leans; they are soft, short, and weak in staples 

SOUTH AMERICAN COTTON. 

Pernambuco Cotton has a fine, long staple, is clean and 
pretty, of a uniform quality, and is much esteemed by 
carders and spinners. It is principally used for hosiery. 



128 

Maranham Cotton is rather inferior to the Pernam- 
buco, is not of such an even quality, nor so clean; it is 
very similar to good Demerara, and is used for the same 
purposes. 

Bahia Cotton is very much like the Maranham, and 
obtains the preference sometimes on account of being 
cleaner and more even in the length of the staple. 

Bio Cotton. — This is a very inferior cotton, having a 
brown color, and containing much spill; it is generally 
used for the same purposes as the low "West Indian. 

Surinam Cotton has a long, fine staple ; it is clean, has 
a yellowish color, and is a superior cotton. It is used 
in the manufacture of hosiery. 

Cayenne Cotton has a fine, good, clean staple, and is 
preferable to the Surinam cotton; it is used for the 
same purposes. 

Demarara Cotton. — This cotton has deteriorated very 
much in quality since the colony has been in possession 
of the English. The best has a fine, strong, silky 
staple, and is much esteemed. The inferior kinds are 
rather brown, dirty, and much mixed. 

Berbice Cotton. — The quality of this cotton has fallen 
ofi very much within the last few years. The best de- 
scriptions of it have a good staple, and are fine, silky 
and clean; but latterly there is a great deal of it brown, 
dirty and mixed. 

Carthagena Cotton has a very long staple ; but is weak, 
stringy, and rather dirty, 

Giron Cotton is of a brown color, has a fair staple, and 
is generally pretty clean. 

Cumana Cotton is inferior to the Giron in its staple, 
and not so clean. 

Caraccas Cotton is also inferior to the Giron, and con- 
tains more dirt. 

La Guayra Cotton is not as good as the Cumana, but 
better than the Caraccas, and not so dirty. 

WEST INDIA COTTON. 

The cotton which comes from the numerous islands 
comprising the West Indies, is of various qualities; but 
in general it is a strong, coarse article, irregular in the 
staple, and only adapted to the manufacture of the 
stouter fabrics of cloth, to which it is mostly applied. 
It is totally unfit for the manufacture of fine goods. 



129 
Among the various islands the best cotton is raised in 
some of the Bahamas, Barbadoes, Hayti, Curacoa, 
Grenada, St. Vincent, Guadaloupe and Tobago. In 
these islands, however, there is not so much cotton 
raised now as formerly. 

EAST INDIA COTTON. 

Bourhon Cotton is the most even in its quality of any 
of the different varieties; has a fine, silky staple, and is 
very clean. It is, with the exception of Sea Island, the 
most valuable produced. 

Surat Cotton has a very fine but exceedingly short 
staple. It is generally very dirty, containing leaves and 
sand. It is the lowest priced cotton in the market, and 
is used in the manufacture of coarse, low-priced goods. 

Bengal Cotton is very much like the Surat, but still 
shorter in the staple. It is generally cleaner, and sells 
for about the same price as Surat. 

Madras Cotton is mostly raised from Bourbon seed, 
and is sometimes not unlike it in staple. It is gener- 
ally dirty, and contains much smell, which diminishes 
its value. It is worth but little more than Surat. 

TUEKEY, LEVANT AND EGYPTIAN COTTON. 

The Smyrna, Cypress and Salonica Cottons are of a 
short, mossy character, and rather dirty. They are 
used chiefly in making candle wicks, etc. 

Egyptian Cotton is a very superior cotton, of a yellow- 
ish color, not as fine and silky as the Sea Island, 
and ranks next to it in price and quality. It is, how- 
ever, somewhat irregular in staple, and prepared in a 
bungling, slovenly manner. No description of cotton 
loses less in carding, and it incorporates freely with 
cotton of a shorter staple, such as New Orleans Upland, 
etc. The best and cleanest of the cotton is generally 
used by the manufacturer for spinning a superior 
quality of fine yarn. 

AFRICAN COTTON. 

In Africa the cotton plant is found growing wild on 
the borders of the Senegal, Gambia and Nigir rivers; in 
Abyssina, Guinea, Sierra Leone, Timbuctoo, and gener- 
ally throughout the interior. 

Sea Island Cotton has also been successfully cultivated 
in Tiji, Tahito, Queensland, Australia and Polynesian 
Islands. 



130 

Varieties of American Cotton. 

American cotton may be divided into two great sec- 
tions, the "smooth" and the "hairy leaved" kinds, < r» 
in the language of science, Barbadense and Hirsuum ; 
the chief of these two in commercial excellence being 
Sea Island and New Orleans respectively. 

The Hirsutae, or hairy cottons, are more or less cov- 
ered with a distinct clothing of hairs. The blossoms 
are white or faintly primrose in color in one race, or 
sub species, obscurely spotted at the base, and in form 
widely expanded or patulous; the boll is smooth on the 
surface, and wanting the depressions peculiar to the 
other species. The Hirsute group are also found with 
seeds black or naked, often from the effects of bad culti- 
vation, but in other instances from the natural habit of 
the plant. 

1 he longest fibre cotton is Sea Island, averaging 1% 
inches in length and chiefly spun into 150's ai d 400*8 
yarns, although, for experimental purposes, it has 
been spun as high as No. 2150. 

The best variety of our even-running cotton is Or- 
leans of the mean length of 1 1-16 ; is largely used far 
weft, while Texas, though shorter, is, from its strength, 
generally used for warp yarn. 

Cotton grown on the Uplands of Alabama, Mississippi, 
Louisiana and Arkansas has a staple of % to % inch. 
That from "Bottom" and "Swamp" lands ave ages 1 
to 1%" inches. A good deal of "Extra" or '"Fancy" Stapled 
Cotton with staple measuring 13^ to 1% inches, is grown 
in these States. These Extra Stapled Cottons (known 
as "Benders," "Peeler," "Allen," etc.), together with the 
Cotton from the "Bottoms," make the average length 
of staple about as given in the above table. 

The South Carolina Sea Island Cotton is of rather 
better qualiiy than that grown in Georgia and Florida. 

The property which the cotton fibres have of holding 
together when the yarn is spun, is not due to any scala 
or beard, as in the case of wool, but to the fact that the 
fibres have a natural twist in them, and when the cotton 
is pressed and twisted together these twists are forced 
together, just as two spiral springs would be if pressed 
together. 



Characteristics of Some Cotton Textures. 

The beauty or excellence of some cotton cloths con- 
sists in the closeness of their texture, that of others in 
the openness and regularity of the intervals between 
the warp and weft threads. 




Sea Island Cotton Plant of G-eorgia. 

(longest staple known.) 

This cotton is raised on the sea coast of Georgia and the 
small islands which form the neighboring archipelago. 
Though not decidedly yellow, it has somewhat of a dull 
butter tint, which distinguishes it from white cotton. 
It is remarkable for its long staple, the filaments being 
three times longer than those of the Indian cotton. It 
has a silky softness. It is sometimes dirty, but the 
well cleaned and the best is preferred to every other 
quality for spinning fine yarn. The reason of this 
superiority appears to be the cylindrical- spiral form and 
equability of its filaments, which facilitates their torsion 
into a uniform thread. 



132 

Teclinical Classification of Cotton. 
The fiber of cotton, when young, is a thin hollow- 
cylinder, filled with liquid, which, in ripening, dis- 
appears and the cylinder contracts into aflat band, with 
thickened edges, and assumes more or less of a twist. 
It is this peculiar form which allows, in short cotton, the 
fibre to be easily spun. '* Short staple " more exactly 
or technically signifies a length under 0.98 inches, or 
25 millimeters ; "medium" means 0.98 to 1.117 inches, 
or 25 up to 30 millimeters ; *' long staple" denotes 1.18 
to 1.57 inches, or 30 to 40 millimeters ; "extra" repre- 
sents 1.58 inches, or 40 millimeters or more. 

The general average for the United States is given in 
the following table : 

Least. Medium. Most. Extra. All. 

Length— Inches 0.91 1.07 1.32 1.72 1.10 

Millimeters. 23.03 27.09 33.44 43.63 27.89 

Width— 1.1000 inches 0.93 0.91 0.88 0.80 0.91 

1.1000 mil.... 23.60 23.20 22.40 20.40 23.00 

Strength— Grains . . ..134.30 121.80 126.50 109.90 125.60 

Grams 8.70 7.96 8.20 7.12 8.14 



Average Length of American Cotton. 
The average length of the staple of the cotton raised 
in the various Southern States is given as follows : 

North Carolina f @ | inches. 

South Carolina | @ | " 

Georgia f @ I " 

Florida | " 

Alabama f " 

Mississippi , 

Louisiana 

Texas 

Arkansas. 

Tennessee | d 

It is said, however, that the cotton grown on the Up- 
lands of Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana and Arkansas 
usually has a staple of | to | inch, while that from the 
"bottom" or "swamp" lands averages 1 to 1| inches. 
Extra stapled cotton, known as "Benders," "Eeeler," 
"Allen," etc., having a staple measuring IJ to If inches, 
is also grown in these States. The staple of Texas 
cotton ranges from | to 1^ inches, according to the 
different sections of the State. 



133 

Cost of Eaising Cotton per Pound. 

Advances are sometimes made on growing cotton crops 
in credits from one-half to three-quarters of their esti- 
mated value, and insurance is also occasionally effected 
when the seed is put in the ground. However, the latter 
is usually made when the cotton reaches the gin. As re- 
gards the cost of production per pound of cotton, various 
estimates are given, based upon the yield in 1879-80. 
These vary from 5 @ 6c., 7 @ 7 l-2c. to 8 @ 10c. per 
pound, and in nearly every instance are based on the 
major portion of the necessary supplies being bought 
elsewhere, and not raised on the plantation. 

It is said, however, by reliable testimonjr, that when 
supplies are produced with cotton under good manage- 
ment, the cost of raising cotton per pound ought not to 
range wider than from 3 to 6 cents. The former figure, 
however, is very low; the estimates undoubtedly pre- 
sume a perfection of management in detail in culture 
that is difficult to practically carry out without labor 
being especially tractable. Indeed, a well known 
planter, who produces cotton on a large scale, gives it 
as his opinion that- with cotton at 10 @ 11 cents per 
pound, and the cost of production 8 @ 9 1-2 cents 
per pound, the farmer simply makes a living, if he 
raises his own provisions, but makes no money if he 
has to buy the latter. Cotton lands, according to their 
location and fertilitj'^, vary all the way in value from 
$1 to $50 per acre, the mean range being about $5 to 
$20 per acre. Land that will produce 1,000 pounds of 
seed cotton to the acre is generally valued in the neigh- 
borhood of $40 per acre. 



Cost of Cotton Spindles. 
In 1860 the whole number of cotton spindles in the 
United States was 5,235,000, costing for a No. 25 yarn 
mill, from $16 to $20 per spindle. The value of a bale 
of cotton prior to the war ranged from $40 to $50. 
During the war it rose to over $900 per bale. Standard 
printing cloths, now costing about 3 1-2 cents per yard, 
were then worth about 33 cents. In 1880 there were 
10,653,435 cotton spincUes in the United States, and for 
No. 25 yarn mill, cost $14 to $18 per spindle. Since 
then new mills have been costing as high as $30 to 
per spindle. 



134 

Cost of Shipping Ootion at Various U. S. Ports. 
The comparative tables of the cost of. shipping a cargo 
of cotton from eight of the leading cotton ports of the 
country is given in the accompanying tables. They 
are made by a Southern authority who has given the 
subject much consideration. The estimates are based 
on a vessel of 2,000 tons burden, having a carrying ca- 
pacity of 5,000 bales: 

NEW ORLEANS. 

Fixed charges $96 00 

Compressing, 65c- per bale 3,250 00 

Stowing, 55c. per bale ^, 750 00 

Harbormaster's dues 20 00 

Pilotage 50 00 

Pilotage (extra) 175 00 

Wharfage 240 00 

Quarantine 30 00 



Total charges $6,611 00 

NEW YORK. 

Fixed charges . ^ $96 00 

Stowing, 65c. per bale 2,750 00 

Harbormaster 10 00 

Pilotage 100 00 

Wharf dues 13 00 

Quarantine : , . . . . 14 00 



Total charges $2,983 00 

BALTIMORE. 

Fixed charges , $96 00 

Compressing, 30c. per bale 1,509 00 

Stowing, 45c. per bale 2,250 00 

Pilotage, 100 00 

Quarantine 15 00 



Total charges $3,961 00 

NORFOLK. 

Fixed charges $96 00 

Compressing and stowing 6,000 00 

Harbormaster 30 GO 

Pilotage 80 00 

Wharfage 20 00 



Total charges $6,226 00 

SAVANNAH. 

Fixed charges $96 00 

Compressing, 35c. per bale 1,750 00 

Stowing, 50c. per bale 2,500 00 

Harbormaster 20 00 

Pilotage 125 28 

Wharfage 5 00 



Total charges $4,511 2i 



135 
CHARLESTON. 

Fixed charges $96 00 

Compressing, 65c. per bale 3,250 00 

Stowing, 40e. per bale 2,000 00 

Harbormaster 20 00 

Wharfage '. '/. * 20 00 

Total charges $5 386 00 

MOBILE. 

Fixed charges $96 00 

Compressing, 65c. per bale 3,250 00 

Stowing, 55c. per bale 2^000 00 

Pilotage. 'l75 OO 

Wharfage • 200 00 

Quarantine 30 00 

Total charges $6,501 00 

GALVESTON. 

Fixed charges $96 00 

Compressing, 50c. per bale 2,500 00 

Stowing, 55c. per bale 2,750 00 

Pilotage , 80 00 , 

Lighterage, 35c. per bale 1,750 00 

Total charges $7,176 00 



Cotton Picking. 
The season of cotton picking commences in the latter 
part of July and continues, without intermission, to 
the Christmas holidays. The work is not heavy, but 
becomes tedious from its sameness. Each hand is sup- 
plied with a basket and bag. The basket is left at the 
head of the *' cotton row ;" the bag is suspended from 
the picker's neck by a strap, and is used to hold the 
cotton as it is taken from the boll. When the bag is 
full it is emptied into the basket, and this routine is 
continued throughout the day. Each hand picks from 
250 to 300 pounds of seed cotton each day ; however, 
some negroes of extraordinary ability go beyond this 



amount. 



EtMcs of Cotton Buying. 
A large part of the expoft business in cotton at all the 
various United States ports is done by selling future 
contracts for specific months' shipments to spinners 
or others, and by covering with purchases of corre- 
sponding months' deliveries in New York. When the 
month of shipment comes round the actual cotton is 
bought and the futures are sold. 



il36 

Oost of Cotton in Lowell and Lancashire. 
Cotton bronght from the interior towns of Texas 
cannot, it is stated, be carried to Liverpool b}' way of 
Galveston or New Orleans so cheaply as it can be 
by way of New York or Boston. Assuming the average 
bale to weigh 500 pounds, at 10 cents per pound, we 
have the following comparative costs of the same at 
Lowell, Mass., and at Lancashire, Eng. : 

LOWELL, MASS. 

Per Bale Per Cwt. 
Cost of cotton in Texas, 500 lbs. at 10 

cts .$50 00 $ 

Freight to Lowell in a covered, locked 

car, in which the cotton is protected 

from rain, mud and other causes of 

waste, at 70 cts. per 100 lbs $3 50 

$53 50 $10 70 

LANCASHIRE, ENGLAND. 

Five hundred pounds, at 10 cts., in- 
cluding all local charges $50 00 $ 

Freight from Texas to Liverpool at 

$1.10 per 100 pounds $5 00 

Insurance at 3-8 of 1 per cent, on $56. . .21 

Transhipment in Liverpool to Lanca- 
shire, 1-4 per cent, per pound $1 25 

$56 96 $11 39 
Advantage of Lowell over Lancashire. . $3 46 .69 

•^*^ 

Percentage of Different Lengths in Staple of Cotton. 

Per Cent. 

Short or under 0.98 long 24 

Medium, or from 0.98 to l.*17 inches long 55 

Long, or from 1.18 to 1.56 inches long 16 

Extra, or 1.57 inches, or more 5 

The "extra "and "long "are said to correspond with 
the Gossypium Maritimum ; the " short " and " medium " 
to Gossypium Hirsutum and Gossypium Herbaceum. 

In length of fibre the maximum of cottons falls in 
South Carolina to 1.966 inches, and in Florida to 1,910 
inches. In Upland or short staple cottons, California 
stands first, being 1.699 indies; Georgia second, 1.552 
inches; Alabama third, 1.427 inches, and Texas fourth, 
1.380 inches, while Virginia and North Carolina hold 
fifth place. 

In width of fibre, with the exception of California and 
Missouri, all the widest fibre comes from the Uplands. 
The strongest fibre comes from Louisiana, and the 
next in strength from Alabama. 




West Indian Cotton Plant. 

This species of cotton is supposed to be a native of the 
American Continent. It is a shrub five or six feet high. 
Its stems and branches are smooth, and the leaves have 
a polished surface. The lower leaves have five lobes, 
the upper three. These are entire, acute, and have 
three glands on their back surfaces. The flower^>. 
which are very large, "have a deep yellow color. The 
capsule is also large, and produces a large body of cot- 
ton. The seeds are black. This is the species in most 
general cultivation in the West India Islands. 

There is also in the West Indies and elsewhere a 
cotton-bearing tree called the Umbrella tree, which attains 
to the height of 100 feet. The produce of the latter, 
however, is of so short and brittle a fibre that it is unfit 
for spinning or any other purpose, except stuffing 
pillows and beds. 



138 

Price of Middling Cotton in 1859, 1860, 1887 and 

1889. 

The price ot* Middling: Cotton, April 1, 1859, was 13e 
and on April 1, 1860, ll%e. The -price in June 1887. was 
11 7-16C, and the present price is 10%c. The lowest 
cotton ever touchpd was 5%<i In May, 1848, and the 
highest was $1 85. S^pt, 1, 1864. 

^t» — ■ 
Olassificaiion oi uoctou in JNew York. 

The following is the classification of cotton in New 
York: 

Fair, barely fair, strict middling fair, fully middling 
fair, barely middling fair. 

Strict good middling, fully good middling, good mid- 
dling, barely good middling, strict middling, fully mid- 
dling, middling, barely middling. 

Strict low middling, fully low^ middling, low middling, 
barely low middling. 

Strict good ordinary, fully good ordinary, good or- 
dinary, barely good ordinary, strict ordinary, fully 
ordinary, ordinary. 

The full grades are fair, middling fair, good middling, 
middling, low middling, good ordinary, and ordinary. 

The half grades are designated by the prefixes of 
"barely," meaning the mean point between the half- 
grade and the next full grade above, and "fully," mean- 
ing the mean point between the half -grade and the next 
full grade below. 

Highest and Lowest Prices for Middling Upland Oot- 
ton in Uew York and Liyerpool in the 

■ Seasons Named. 

Season. ■ Wew York. Liverpool. . 

(Beginning Sept 1 Highest. Lowest. Highest. Lowest, 
and ending Aug. dl) Gts. Cts. d. d. 

iHfto «q J 12 15-16 10 7% 5 7-16 

lB8J-8d.... "I yept.l April 4 Sept. 1 July 14 

1**°^*-^* ] April 14 Sept. 1 June 9 Sept. 1 

1QS1 Q^ i 11^ 9% 6 3-16 5 7-16 

1*^*^*-**^ } Feb. 26 Oct. 24 Sept. I Oct. 22 

LaoK QA 10 5-16 8 13-16 5 9-16 4 11-16 

l««5-8b J ^pp^^ J j^^^j 26 Oct. 5 Feb. 27 

ii«8b-b7 i May 81 Nov. 4 June 6 Sept. 1 

iftft7ft« ill^ 9 7-16 5% 5X 

l^^^-'*** ] Aug. 14 Oct. 3 Dec. 28 Oct. 3 

^^^^»^ ] Aug. 20 Oct. 17 Aug. 31 Dec. 31 

1889-90 

Average price for Middling Uplands In Liverpool for 
year 1889. 5 55-64d. 



139 

Ootton Production ot Liie vVorld Prior to 1880. 

The following: statement, wlikh was prepared some 
years previous to the census report of 1880, and in- 
corporated in it, gives an approximate account of the 
quantity of cotton consumed in each country of the 
world, when the population of many countries was 
upon a much smaller basis than at present. The table, 
however, gives a very good general idea of the relative 
consumption of cotton per capita in each : 

The entire production of cotton in the world was 

estimated as follows : 

Pounds. 

Imported into and consumed in Europe 2,217.000,000 

Consumed in United States 628,000,000 

Native consumption in India, China, etc 1,360,000,000 

Total as above 4,205,000.000 

Native consumption in Turkey 20,0f 0,000 

Native consumption in Africa (1 lb per head). 200 000,000 
Native consumption in South America, etc.. . 40,000,000 
Received by Persia from Bokhara,etc 15,000,000 

Total crop of the world 4,480,000,000 

Equal to bales of 400 lbs 11,200,000 

Of which about one-half is grown in the United 
States, and one-half of the whole is spun in England. 
^ 

Our Long-Stapled Ootton. 

"With the demand for finer cotton fabrics of varied 
design, our manufacturers have been obliged to resort 
to such stapled cotton as will meet their wants. Our 
Sea Island variety answers the purpose in many partic- 
ulars where very fine numbers are required to be spun, 
but its high price often militates against its use in cases 
where a cheaper cotton can be advantageously employed. 
About one-half of the Sea Island crop is now consumed 
in this country, while fourteen years ago less than an 
eighth part was thus disposed of. The average export 
price of Sea Island cotton for 1887-88 was 23.8c. per 
pound. This renders it too high in cost for many of our 
manufacturers, yet a long-stapled cotton must be had, 
and Egyptian cotton has been found to supply the want 
to good advantage at 5 to 7c. a pound less. 

The average Sea Island staple is If inches long, while 
the Egyptian staple is 1| inches long. The 1-| inch 
staple Egyptian readily spins to 80s yarn, and even 
finer, for weft purposes. The finer grades of brown cot- 
ton engage the principal attention of the planting inter- 
ests of Egypt, and it may be noted that the much larger 
portion of our importations of cotton goods consists of 
those made from Egyptian cotton, the like of which can 
be and ought to be manufactured in this country. 



140 

Cotton Centre of the United States. 
New Orleans, La., lies in the meridian west of Green, 
wicli. Taking this as tlie dividing line we find that in 
1850 27.4 per cent, of the cotton crops of the country 
were produced east of it, and 72.6 per cent. west. Texas 
and Arkansas had not then begun their development, and 
New Orleans, as a consequence, lay west of the cotton 
producing centre of the country. That it controlled so 
large a proportion of the trade at that time was due to 
the lack of railroads in the South, and to the facilities 
that the Mississippi and its tributaries offered for trans- 
portation. It was about that date that the movement of 
population and cotton production moved rapidly south- 
ward and westward, with the following result : 

Cotton Cotton 

raised west raised east 

of 90 deg. W. of 90 deg.W. 

Per cent. Per cent. 

1850 72.6 27.4 

1860 57.0 43.0 

1870 55.9 44.1 

1880 53.3 46.7 

1885 50.1 49.9 

1886 49.4 56.6 

Just as the population of the country moved west- 
ward, until the centre of the population has reached Cin- 
cinnati, so the staple has traveled in the same direction, 
until the meridian of New Orleans has now become the 
centre of cotton production, and that city is the most 
central point on the Continent to this great Southern 
crop. However, the centre of maximum production has 
been located by the Census at a point on the Missis- 
sippi where the three States of Mississippi, Louisiana 
and Arkansas join. 

^■» • 

Old and New Cotton Cin. 
Whitney's saw-gin is a vast improvement on the Hin- 
doo churka. It comprises a series of circular saws, 
mounted on a frame, and turned by a fly-wheel ; nearly 
in contact with it, rotates another cylinder, mounted with 
brushes ; and the cotton, drawn between the two, is de- 
prived of its seed by the action of the saw teeth against 
the brushes. The improved Macarthy gin is said by 
far to be the most complete machine for this purpose. 
In it, after traveling along an endless apron, the 
cotton is seized by a spiked roller, partially opened, 
and transferred by a vibrating comb to other rollers 
studded with blades. 



141 

Comparative Cost of Compressing and Stowing Cotton. 
The comparative cost of compressing and stowage at 
the various ports named is given as follows: 

Compressing Stowage 

per bale. per bale. 

New Orleans 65 55 

New York 55 

Baltimore 30 45 

Norfolk 65 55 

Savannah , 35 50 

Charleston 65 40 

Mobile ' '. 65 55 

Galveston 50 55 

In point of compressing and stowage (with the excep- 
tion of Charleston, in the latter) it would appear that 
Baltimore is the cheapest port in the country from 
which to ship cotton in quantity. In the matter of 
harbor-masters' fees, pilotage, lighterage and wharfage 
charges, the exhibits of cost at the various ports are as 
follows : 

Harbor- pjiot^frp Light- Wharf- t^^, , 
master, ^^^otas^- erage. age. ^^^^^• 

New Orleans $20 00 $195 00 $ $240 00 $455 00 

New York... 10 00 100 00 13 00 123 00 

Baltimore 100 00 100 00 

Norfolk 30 00 80 00 20 00 130 00 

Savannah ... 20 00 125 28 15 00 160 28 

Charleston.. 20 00 20 00 40 00 

Mobile 175 00 200 00 375 00 

Galveston 80 00 17 50 97 50 

The foregoing present facts that are of considerable 
interest to domestic manufacturers, as well as to 
exporters of cotton. Besides, they show the necessity 
of a lower and more equable adjustment of these 
charges, as well as those for compressing and stowage, 
if certain of these ports wish to hold a fair share of the 
trade of the country in raw cotton. 



Freight and Insurance on Cotton. 
In 1880 cotton was shipped from Texas to Liverpool 
via Boston, for $1.10 per 100 lbs., 70 cents being 
allowed for land carriage and transphipment in Boston, 
and to steamship 40 cents. The rate of marine insur- 
ance was 3-8 of 1 per cent, and the cost of handling in 
Liverpool and transportation to Manchester was not less 
than 1-4 per cent, per pound. Contracts in 1880 were 
made for bringing cotton from Texas to factory cities of 
New England at 70 cents per 100 lbs. 



U2 

Cotton Supply, etc., of the World in 1889-90. 

The estimated consumption and supply of cotton for 

the season 1889-90 is as follows: 

Estimated Actual Actual 

Requirem's. Consumpt'n. Consumpt'n. 

1889-90. 1888-9. 1887-8. 

Bales. Bales. Bales. 

American 7;386,000 7,098,000 6.983,000 

East Indian 1,640,000 l,53t),000 1,398,000 

Sundries 770,000 768,000 980,000 

Total 9,796,000 9,402,000 9,361,000 

Average weight 453 lbs. 453 lbs. 439 lbs 

Bales of 400 lbs. . . . . 11,088,000 10,648,000 10,279,000 

Great Britain 3,977,000 3,770,000 3,842,000 

Continent 4,205,000 4,069,000 3,796,000 

U. S., Canada, etc.. 2,906,000 2,809,000 2,641.000 

Total as above.. 11,088,000 10,648,000 10,279,000 



Consumption of Cotton in Southern Mills. 
The consumption by Southern mills for 1886-7 and 

1887-8 was as follows: 1887-8 1886-7 

Virginia 21,802 18,331 

North Carolina ..... 76,360 66, 678 

South Carolina 111,003 99,970 

Georgia 133,877 129,702 

Florida 160 

Alabama ., 32,712 22,565 

Mississippi 17,107 13,274 

Louisiana 9,907 8,454 

Texas 544 180 

Arkansas 1,474 1,115 

Tennessee, „ 36,437 34,986 

Missouri 2,052 2,200 

Kentucky 12,815 6.837 

Total 456,090 401,452 

^ ■ 

Capital Earnings and Dividends of Some New England 

Cotton Mills. 

The following is a statement of the capital stock, 

earnings and dividends of some New Eugland cotton 

mills for 1888: Capital. Earnings. Dividends. 

Wampanoag $750,000 $157,550 $86,350 

Chace 500,000 115,000 37,500 

Granite 400.000 136,000 64,000 

Flint 580,000 102,858 58,000 

Barnard 330,000 53,000 24,750 

Merchants 800,000 125,720 60,000 

Narragansett..... 400,000 67,143 32,000 

King Philip 1,000,000 137,105 60,000 

Union 750,000 237,000 187,500 

Sagamore 600,000 133,000 78,000 



143 




Cotton Plant in Bloom. 

The above cut shows the cotton phmt in bloom. 

No. 1. Eepresents the blossom. 

No. 2. The flower. 

No. 3. The same flower, second day. 

No. 4. The same flower at night. 

No. 5. The "burr" or involucre. 

No. 6. The young boll. 

No. 7. The boll bursting. 

No. 8. The boll nearly ripe. 

No. 9. The boll ripe; cotton perfect. 

No. 10. The cotton blown by the wind. 

Cotton, from the Arabic word Koton, is the sponta- 
neous production of all the inter-tropical regions. Of 
the four great materials assigned by Providence for 
human clothing, it is believed that none was assigned 
to Europe. To Asia was given all — cotton, flax, the 
sheep and the silk-worm. 



Comparative Values of Different Kinds of Cotton. 

In estimating the value of different kinds of cotton, a 
manufacturing authority places them in the following 
order : Best Sea Island, Egyptian, Bourbon, Pernam- 
buco, Cayenne, Bahia, Maraham, Surinam, Demerara, 
Berbice, Bahama, Grenada, Curacoa, Barbadoes, and the 
West Indies generally; Giron, and the best Spanish; 
New Orleans, Upland, Tennessee, Alabama, Smyrna, 
Cypress, Salonica, Jamaica, St. Kitts, and the inferior 
West Indies ; Carthagena, Caracas and the inferior 
Spanish; Madras, Bengal and Surat. 



lU 





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145 

Raw Cotton Consumed by the "World. 
Tiie following is the estimated consumption of raw 
cotton by the various countries of the world, both gross 
and per capita of population prior to 1880 : 

Haw Cotton Consumed. 
Countries. Per 

Population. . Pounds. head. 

The world 1,408,396,000 3,163 600,000 2.26 



Russia 86,260,000 142,500.000 1.65 

Sweden and Norway. 6^291,000 24,800,000 3.94 

Denmark 2.023,000 

Germany 42,727,000 249,100,000 5.83 

Austria 37,331,000 101,300,000 2.71 

Holland 4,130.000 13,800,000 3 . 34 

iielgium 5,336,000 43.200,000 8.09 

Switzerland 2,776,000 42,500,000 15 . 30 

France 36,9(i6 000 230,OOo 000 6.23 

Spain and Portugal.. . 21,275,000 79,900.000 3.75 

Italy and Malta 26,948,000 52,800,000 1.96 

Greece 1,450,000 

Turkey.Eoumania,etc 15,353,000 



286.806,000 979,900,000 3.39 



Russia 86,260.000 142,500,000 1.65 

Rest of Continent .... 202,546,000 837,400,000 4 . 11 

Great Britain 34,180,000 195,700,000 5 . 72 



Total, Europe ... . 322,986,000 1,175,600,000 3.63 



Turkey, Persia, etc... 24,540,000 

India 250,000,000 295,000,000 1 . 18 

China 435,000,000 1,000.000,000 2.29 

Japan 33,620,000 65,000.000 1 98 

Siam, Java, etc 12,500,000 



Total. Asia 755,660,000 1,360,000,000 1 . 7 



Egypt and N. Africa 17.000,000 
West, S. and E. Africa 13,000.000 
Interior of Atrica 200,000,000 



Total, Africa 230,000,000 



U. S. and Canada 48,850,000 628,000,000 12.85 

Cent, and S. America 

and West Indies 43,250,000 



Total, America... 92,100,000 628,000,000 6.82 



Australia 2,650,000 



Common sheetings and shirtings require about sev- 
enty or eighty picks, or threads, to the inch, which, in a 
power-loom driven by 200 revolutions a minute, would 
".nake about five yards per hour. 



Average Weight of American Cotton Bales. 

The average weights of American cotton bales (on a 

basis of the six successive seasons ending with 1888) 

are as follows: 

Pounds. 

North Carolina 466 

South Carolina 473 

Georgia 477 

Florida 477 

Alabama 497 

Mississippi 490 

Louisiana 482 

Texas 513 

Arkansas . 500 

Tennessee 495 

General average for the United States, according to 
the above, is about 485 pounds to the bale. 



G-eneral Method of Planting Cotton. 

The general method of planting cotton may be de- 
scribed as follows: The seed is sown on ridges, sur- 
rounded with furrows, for the purpose of draining off 
the superfluous water. Sowing time extends from the 
beginning of March to the end of April, the early part 
of the latter month being considered the most eligible, 
because of there being less danger to the young plants 
from the occurrence of frost — that fearful bane to the 
cotton planter. After the plants have attained a mod- 
erate height they are thinned out, so as to remove those 
that promise badly and to leave sufficient space between 
those that are vigorous; this space varies from about 
ten to twenty inches. The soil is carefully weeded and 
the plants are still further thinned, if their luxuriant 
growth should require that process as the season 
advances. 

As the summer approaches, and when the frost has 
disappeared, the crop is liable to injury from heavy 
rains and the attacks of a caterpillar which feeds vora- 
ciously on the leaves of the plant. The blossom then 
appears, varying in color from yellow to red, and lastly 

dark brown. The pod succeeds, and about August the 
picking season commences, which lasts for some months. 
The appearance of a pod bursting is very beautiful as 
it rests on the plant, being varied by the contrast of the 
color of the cotton with the green leaves of the shrub, 
and the beautiful flower, either fully opened or opening 
on the stems. 



147 



Exports of British. Cottons to U. S., from 1831 to 1846. 

The following gives the exports of British cotton 
thread, cotton yarns, plain and printed calicoes, cam- 
brics, muslins, etc., to the United States from 1831 to 
1846, inclusive. (From British official statistics): 









Printed 


Muslina 


Cotton 


Cotton 


Plain 


and dyed 


and 


yarn. 


thread. 


cotton cloth. 


cotton cloth. 


cambrics. 


Tears. Pounds. 


Pounds. 


Yards. 


Yards. 


Yards. 


1831 250,539 


304,099 


21,094,267 


27,961,642 


3'92,490 


1832 159,730 


144.187 


12.435.595 


13,599,285 


189,668 


1833 156,024 


324,117 


15,852,212 


12,290,631 


295,208 


1834 89,844 


373,583 


12,406,857 


19,713,345 


883,705 


1835 131,060 


496 754 


23,875,102 


43,980,284 


815,789 


1836 205,369 


481,325 


17,065,042 


32,028,305 


869,715 


1837 357,432 


191,287 


5,554,139 


13,902,683 


604,513 


1838 265,983 


450,951 


11,389,241 


22,262,242 


627,374 


1839 117,557 


855,710 


11.194,870 


22,439,785 


628,623 


1840 242,855 


391,575 


7,439,463 


17.775,607 


335,172 


1841 220,068 


567,000 


11,957,053 


26,025,281 


585,121 


1842 45,160 


284,506 


5,120,403 


15,691,333 


285,915 


1843 103,199 


388,779 


7,736.295 


7,720,651 


430,174 


1844 39,717 


509,069 


9,661,820 


12,008,635 


600,402 


1845 69,507 


423,999 


12,412,981 


13,097,851 


1,034,216 


1846 81,663 


422,462 


10,640,2i5 


13,556,509 


587,059 



Cotton Looms of the United States in 1887. 
The number of cotton looms in the United States in 
1887 was as follows : 



Alabama 2,255 

Arkansas 52 

California 

Connecticut 18,912 

Delaware 1,196 

Florida 

Georgia 10,193 

Illinois 678 

Indiana 1,695 

Kentucky 613 

Louisiana 1.593 

Maine 20^256 

Maryland 3,328 

Massachusetts . . . 119,373 

Michigan 132 

Minnesota .... 



Mississippi 

Missouri 

New Hampshire 

New Jersey 

New York 

North Carolina. 

Ohio 

Pennsylvania. . . 
Ehode Island . . . 
South Carolina. 

Tennessee 

Texas 

Utah 

Vermont 

Virginia. ....... 

Wisconsin. ..... 



Total. 



1,946 

394 

41,646 

4,115 

14,606 

6,931 

123 

15,561 

37,953 

6,666 

3,003 

362 

22 

1,344 

2,329 

1,024 

308,101 



■» •» 



Cotton Looms in other Countries in 1888. 

The total number of mechanical cotton looms in May, 
1888, in Europe, was estimated at 1,000,000, of which 
about 600,000 are in England. 



148 

Exports of American Cottons in 1887 and 1888. 

The exports of domestic cottons to the various foreign 
countries during the years 1887 and 1888 were as 
follows: 

UNCOLORED COTTONS. 

1887. 1888. 

Yards. Yards. 

China 49,416,891 78,360,170 

South- America- 
Chili 9,802,509 5,514,655 

Argentine Rep 4,335,031 4,494,773 

Venezuela 1,892,213 2,195,601 

Brazil 2,145,385 2,634,214 

U.S.Colombia 1,518,776 1,620,436 

Peru 2,720,.524 477,162 

Uruguay 619,327 1,021,261 

Ecuador 422,138 773,106 

Other 244,203 290,086 

GreatBritain 8,42.5,426 7,104,419 

Africa 7,141,984 7,824,558 

Westlndies 2,980,400 4,294,696 

East Indies 6,175,718 2,591,214 

Central America 3,562,988 3,358,609 

Asia 1,595,520 2,583,792 

Mexico 1,975,139 1,837,505 

Germany 1,360,344 1,676,877 

British North America 942,907 1,282,899 

Azores, Maderia, etc -. . v 884,244 767,224 

Japan 683,340 699,432 

HongKong 155,369 206,586 

British Possessions not included above. . 6,013,373 3,841,653 

Other countries 752,930 1,358,146 

Total 115,766,679 136,809,074 

Value $7,812,047 $9,256,486 

COLOEED COTTONS. 

Mexico 14,121,638 10,508,533 

South America- 
Brazil -. 6,038,989 5,490,853 

Venezuela 5,604,955 7,045,215 

U.S.Colombia 3,317,809 4,176,756 

Argentine Republic 1,533,448 7,925,096 

Ecuador 2,791,227 4,544,124 

ChiU ■ 602,833 2,085,197 

Peru 396,423 991,261 

Uruguay 646,609 1,331,696 

Other 190,104 412,912 

West Indies— 

Hayti 8,990,982 6,476,639 

Cuba 395,104 1,712,975 

San Domingo 1,417,329 3,135,819 

British 1,096,786 1,361,974 

Dutch 917,088 1,424,109 

Danish .-... 153,767 216,555 

PortoRico 189,536 59,765 

Hawaiian Islands 1,099,586 1,015,094 

Central America 2,869,048 3,043,726 

England 859,121 2,885,869 

British Honduras 305,743 212,799 

Portugal 3,000 

French Colonies 614,567 826,068 

Germany 455,076 1,240,504 

Other points..., 83.5,178 670,074 

Total 54,446,936 67,793,013 

Value $3,522,612 $4,003,772 



U9 

Different Staples of Cotton. 



INDIAN COTTON, VIZ,: 
(Gossypium Indicum) 

1 BENGAL 



3 COMMON 8 U RATS 



4 PRIME SURATS 



N. AMERICAN, VIZ.: 
(Gossypium Barsadense) 

5 WEST INDIES UPLANDS, 
DEMERARA, BERBICE 
AND SMYRNA 



6 MOBILE AND ALABAMA 



7 NEW ORLEANS 



S, AMERICAN, VIZ.: 
(Gossypium Peruvianum) 

8 BAHIA AND MACEIO 



9 MARANHAM AND PARA 



10 PERNAMBUCO, ARACALI 
AND CEARA 

11 PERUVIAN 

N, AMERICAN, VIZ.: 

(Gossypium Barbadense) 
egyptian, same size as 
Peruvian 
(long staple) 

12 SEA ISLAND 




150 

Production and Exportation of British Cotton Goods. 
According to British trade statistics, the production 
iind exportation of cotton j'arn goods in the United 
Kingdom for the past six years were as follows: 

Production. Export. 

Year. Pounds. Pounds. 

1880 ....1,300,600,000 1,082,000,000 

1881 1,345,800,000 1,183,100,000 

1882 1,352,300.000 1,115,900,000 

1883.. 1,420,000,000 1,176.000,000 

1884 1,387,200.000 1,163,200,000 

1885 1.272,800,000 1,115,600,000 



Profits of Cotton Manufacturing. 

In thirty-two Fall River mills the following dividends 
lor the quarter ending April 30th, 1889, were declared: 

Corporation. Capital. Per Cent. Amount. 

American Linen $800,000 3 $24,000 

Barnard 330,000 2 6,600 

Bourne 400,000 4 16,000 

Border City 1,000,000 3 30,000 

Barnaby 400,000 4 16,000 

Chace 500,000 2 10,000 

Gonanicut 120,000 1^ 1,800 

Davol 300,000 2 6,000 

Fall River 180,000 3 5,400 

Flint 580,000 3| 20,300 

Globe Yarn 900,000 2 18 000 

Granite 400,000 6 24,000 

King Philip 1,000,000 U 15,000 

Laurel Lake 400,000 3" 12,000 

Merchants 800,000 2| 20,000 

Mechanic 750,000 l| 11,250 

Metacomet 228,000 2 5,760 

Narragansett 400,000 2 8,000 

Osborn 600,000 * 3 18,000 

Pocasset 800,000 2 16.000 

Richard Borden 675,000 2 13,500 

Robeson 260,000 2 5,200 

Sagamore 900,000 2^ 22,500 

Shove 550,000 2 11,000 

Slude 550,000 1^ 8,250 

Stafford 800,000 2 16,000 

Seaconet 400,000 ^ 18.000 

Tecumseh 500,000 2| 12,500 

Troy C. and W 300,000 6 18,000 

Union Cotton 750,000 5 37.500 

Wampanoag 750,000 4 30,000 

Weetamoe 550,000 2 11,000 

Totals $17,933,000 2.71 $487,560 



151 

Manufactured Cottons uunsumed by the World. 

Some years ago a prominent statistical authority In 

Europe made the following tabular statement of the 

manufactured cottons consumed by the world : 

Goods imported 

from Great Britain. Total Consumption, 

Per Per 

Pounds. head. Pounds, head. 

The world 1,041,700,000 0.74 4,205,300,000 2.98 

Kussia 2,600,000 0.03 145,100.000 1.68 

Sweden & Norway. 8.000.000 1.27 32,800,000 5 21 

Denmark 5.000,000 2.47 5,000,000 2 47 

Germany ,. 65,200 000 1.52 314,300 00) 7.35 

Austria 7,900.000 0.21 109,200.000 2.92 

Holland. . . 43,000,000 10 41 56 800 000 13.75 

>5elRium 17,400,000 3 26 60,000,000 11.35 

Switzerland 42.500,000 15 30 

France 19,900,000 0.54 249,900,000 6 77 

Spain and Portugal 25,700,000 1.21 105,600,000 4.96 

Italy and Malta.... 51,100,000 1.59 103,900,000 3 85 

Greece 6,900,000 4.75 6,900,000 4,75 

Turkey, Kou mania, 

etc 87,000,000 2 40 37,000,000 2.40 

Total 289,700,000 0.99 l,269,e00,000 4.38 

Russia 2 600,000 0.03 145,106,020 1.68 

Rest of Continent. 287,100,000 1.41 1,124,500,000 5 52 

Great Britain 195,700.000 5.72 

Total Europe. . 289,700,000 0.89 1,465,300,000 4.52 

Turkey, Persia, etc. 38,000,000 1.54 38,000,000 164 

India 330.000,000 1.32 625,000,000 2 50 

nhioa 100,000.000 23 1,100,000,000 2.52 

Japan 20,000,000 0.59 85,000.000 2 52 

Siam, Java, etc. . . 30,000,000 2.40 30,000,000 2 40 

Total Asia 518,000,000 t).69 1,878,100,000 2 48 

E;?ypt and N.Africa 34.000,000 2 00 34 000,000 2.00 

W., S. and E. Africa 2^,000,000 2.15 28,000 000 2.15 

Interior of Africa 

Total Africa.... 62,000,000 0.26 62,000,000 0.26 

U. S. and Canada. . 22,000,000 0.45 650,000,000 13.30 
Cen. & So. America 

& West Indies.. 135.000.000 3.12 135,000,000 3 12 

Total America. 157,000.000 1.70 785,000,000 8.32 

Australia 15,000,000 5 66 15,000.000 5.66 

As early as 1793 British mnslins were said to be equal 
in appearance to those of India, while the patterns were 
far more elepraut. and the cost was less than one-third. 



152 

A,iinual Orops, Exports and Home Consumption of 
Cotton Since 1841. 

Home Consumption. 

Total 
Season. Crop. 

1841-42 1,684 000 

1842-43 2.379,000 

1843 44 2.030,000 

1844-45.-. 2,394,000 

1845-46 2,100,000 

1846-47 1,779,000 

1847-48 2,423,000 

1848-49 2,840,000 

1849-50 2,204,000 

1850-51 2,415,000 

1851-52. 3,126,000 

1852-53 3.416,000 

1853-54 3,075,000 

1854.55. 2,983,000 

1855-56 3,665,000 

1856-57 3,094,000 

1857-58 3,257,000 

1858-59 4,019,000 

1859-60 4,861,000 

1860-61 3,849,000 

1861-65 

1865-66 2,278,000 

1866-67 2,233,000 

1867-68 2,599 000 

1868-69 2,434,000 

1869-70 3,114,000 

1870-71 4,347,000 

1871-72 2,974,000 

1872-73 3,848,000 

1873-74 4,130,000 

1874^75 3.831,000 

1875-76 4,632,000 

1876-77 4,474,000 

1877-78 4,774 000 

1878-78 5,074,000 

1879-80 5,761,000 

1880-81 6,606,000 

1881-82 5,456,000 

1882-83 6,950,000 

1883-84 5,713,000 

1H84-85 5,706,e00 

1885-86 6,575,000 

1886-87 6,499 000 

1887-88 7,046,833 

1888-89 6,938,290 

1889-90 





Northern. 


Southern. 


Exports. 


Mills. 


Mills. 


1.465.000 


268.000 




2,010,000 


325,000 




1 629,000 


347,000 




2,084,000 


389.000 




1,667,000 


423,060 




1,241,000 


428,000 




1,858,000 


532,000 


75,666 


2,228,000 


518,000 


112,000 


1.590,000 


488,000 


107,000 


1,989,000 


404,000 


60,000 


2,444,000 


588,000 


111,000 


2,528,000 


650,000 


153,000 


2,319,000 


592,000 


145.000 


2,244.000 


571,000 


135,000 


2,995,000 


633,000 


138,000 


2,253,000 


666,000 


154,000 


2,590,000 


452,000 


143,000 


3,521,000 


760,000 


167,000 


3,774,000 


793,000 


186,000 


3.127,000 


650,040 


193,000 


1,555,000 


541,000 


127,000 


1,557,000 


573,000 


150,000 


1,656,000 


800,000 


168.000 


1,447,000 


822,000 


173 000 


2.179,000 


777,000 


80,000 


3,168,000 


1,072,000 


91,000 


1.957,000 


977,000 


120,000 


2,676,000 


1,063,000 


138,000 


2,811,000 


1,192,000 


128,000 


2,674.000 


1,071,000 


130,000 


3,232.000 


1 220.000 


134,000 


3,028,000 


1,302,000 


127,000 


3,356,000 


1,345,000 


151,000 


3,4f:6,000 


1,375,000 


198,000 


3,864,000 


1,574,000 


223,000 


4,565,000 


1,713,000 


230.000 


3,551,000 


1,677,000 


287,000 


4,724,000 


1,759,000 


313,000 


3,917,000 


1,537.(00 


346,000 


3,920,000 . 


1,437,000 


318,000 


4,336,000 


1,781,000 


385,000 


4 445,000 


1,687,000 


422,000 


4,627 502 


1,859,009 


456,090 


4,742,347 


1,834,310 


479,781 



Cost of ''Woven Wind" Muslins. 
At two places in Bengal, India — Sonar-ga and Vickrum- 
poorn— muslins are made by a few families so exceed- 
ing!}' fine, tbat four months are required to weave one 
piece, wliich sells at from 400 to 500 rupees. When this 
muslin is laid on the grass and the dew has fallen on it, 
it is no longer discernible. 



163 

Estimated Number Cotton Spindles in Europe on 

Sept. 30 of the Year Named. 

Total 

Great Britain. Continent. Europe. 

1883 42,000,000 22,450,000 64,450,000 

1884 42,750,000 22,650,000 65.400,000 

1885 43,000,000 22,750,000 65.750,000 

1886 42,700,000 22,900,000 65,600,000 

1887 42,740,000 23,180,000 65,920,000 

1888 42,740,000 22,380,000 66,120,000 

1889 



Estimated Number of Working Cotton Spindles in tlie 
United States on Sept. 1, in the Years Named. 

Northern Southern Total 

Tears. States. States. U. States. 

1880 10,095,000 484,000 10,679,000 

1881 10,625,000 750,000 11,375.000 

1882.... 11,350,000 800,000 12,150,000 

1883 11,800,000 860,000 12,660,000 

1884 12,250,000 1,050,000 13,300,000 

1885 12,250,000 1,125,000 13,375.000 

1886 12.250,000 1,150.000 13,500.000 

1887 12,300 000 1.200,000 ' 13,550,000 

1888 12,275,000 1,250,000 13,525,000 

1889 12,725,000 1,450,000 14,175,000 



Statistics of Special Cotton Mills in 1880. 
Below we give the mills which were* employed in 
working raw cotton, waste or cotton yarns into hose, 
webbing, tapes, fancy fabrics, or mixed goods or other 
fabrics, which are not sold as specific manufactures, 
either of cotton or wool. Some of these mills worked 
both fabrics, but belonged more in the class of cotton 
manufactures than in that of woolen manufactures : 

Eastern Middle Southern Western 

States. States. States. States 

Establishments.. 70 161 11 7 

Capital $3,970,803 $6,616,645 $381,500 $255,500 

Spindles 15,348 34,922 9,072 

Looms 897 2 804 234 

Operatives 3,169 9,271 271 181 

Cotton con- 
sumed bales 9,006 27,794 684 8,114 

Cost $578,705 $1,600,358 $39,016 $189,366 

Wages paid 

operatives $877,007 22,898,931 $66,024 $34,947 

Value Of produot.$5.539,192 $12,760,128 $235,395 $325,058 



154 

Ootton Manufactures of tlie United States in 1880. 

The statistics of cotton manufactures in the Unit#*d 
States for the year 1880, make the f cHowinfi: showinj? : 

Establishments 756 

Caoital invested; $208,280,346 

Spindles 10,653,435 

Looms 225,759 

Employees 174,659 

Wages paid $42 040.510 

Cotton consumed, bales 1,570,344 

Cotton consumed, 1' s 750,843,981 

Cost of cotton consumed $86,945,725 

Value of all materiais used $102,206,347 

Pounds of goods manufactured , . 607,264,241 

Yards of goods manufactured 2,273,278,025 

Value of total product $192,090,110 

The foregoing were subdivided among the different 
geographical sections of the country as below : 

New England States. 

Factories 439 

Spindles 8,632,087 

Looms 184,701 

Average number of yarns 30 

Capital invested $156,754,690 

Hands employed 127,185 

Wages paid $32,170,861 

Cotton consumed, lbs 541,373,880 

Ootton consumed, bales 1,129,498 

Value of cotton consumed $63,069,434 

Value of materials used $74,290,026 

Cotton goods manufactured, lbs 432,744,610 

Cotton goods manufactured, yards 1.813,478,967 

Value of entire product $143,363,030 

South, m States. 

Factories 161 

Spindles 542.048 

Looms -. 11,898 

Average number of yarns 11 

Capital invested $17,375,897 

Hands employed 16,741 

Wages paid $2,750,9.-6 

Cotton consumed, lbs 84,528,757 

Cotton consumed, bales 182,349 

Value of cotton consumed $8,890,408 

Valu ^ of all materials used . , $9,999,145 

Cotton goods manufactured, Ib^ 68,858,265 

Cotton goods manufactured yards 148,058,675 

Value of entire product $16,356,598 

Middle States. 

Factories 139 

Spindles 1.391,164 

Looms 27,318 

Average number of yarns 22 

Capital invested $31,014,759 

Hands employed 28,367 

Wages paid $6,613,260 



155 

Ootton Manufactures of the United States in 1880. 

CONTINUED. 

(MiddU States Continued ) 

Cotton consumed, lbs 108,329.428 

Cotton coDSumed, bales •. 228,729 

Value of cotton consumed $13,258,526 

Value of materiala used $16]l91,758 

Cotton goods manufactured, lbs 93,574.519 

Cotton goods manufactured, yards 289,762.256 

Value of the entire product $29,389,286 

Western States. 

Factories 17 

Spindles : . 88 136 

Looms 1,842 

Average number of yarns. , 12 

Capital invested $3,135,000 

Hands employed 2.366 

Wages paid $505,403 

Cotton consumed, lbs 15,119,916 

Cotton consumed, bales 29,768 

Value of cotton consumed $1,657,367 

Value of all materials used $1,725,418 

Cotton goods manufactured, lbs 12,086,847 

Cotton goods manufactured, yards 21,978,127 

Value of the entire product $2,981, J 96 

Eastern States. 

Material consumed, bales 1,129,498 

Material consumed, lbs 541,373,88i> 

Cost $63,169,434 

Value of all materials $74,290,(i26 

Goods manufactured, lbs 432,744 610 

Goods manufactured, yards 1,813,478,967 

Total product $543,363,030 

Middle States. 

Material consumed, bales 228,729 

Material consumed, lbs 109,321,428 

Cost $13,258,526 

Value of all materials $16,191,758 

Goods manufactured, lbs 93,574,519 

Goods manufactured, yards 289,762,256 

Total products. : $29,289,286 

Southern States. 

Material con mmed, bales 182,349 

Material consumed, lbs 84, 528,757 

Cost $8,89)),408 

Value of all materials $9 999,145 

Goods manufactured, lbs 68,858,265 

Goods manufactured, yards 148.058 675 

Total products $16,356,598 

g Western States. 

Material consumf d, bales 29,678 

Material consumed, lbs 15.119,916 

Cost $1,627,357 

Value of all materials $1,725,418 

Goods manufactured, lbs 12,086,847 

Goods manufactured, yards 21,978,127 

Total product . $2,981,196 



156 



Magnified fibres of Cotton. 
The following is the explanation of the accompanying 

cuts • 







FIBRES OF UNEIPE COTTON. 

A, — Fibres of the unripe cotton. In that state the 
fibres are perfect cylindrical tubes. A* is a fibre, repre- 
sented as seen under water, indicating that the water 
had gradually entered and enclosed several air-bubbles, 
proving the tube to be quite hollow and without joints. 




^ 



FIBRES OF RIPE COTTON. 



157 
B. — The first two fibres are from ripe cotton and are 

already twisted, though the pod or capsule is not yet 

burst, and is still on the growing plant. The other 

three fibres are of raw cotton prepared for manufacture. 



C, 



'^■v,t:'>if1 














FIBRES OF UNEAVELIiED THREADS OF MANUFACTURED COTTON. 

C.— Various fibres of unravelled threads of manu- 
factured cotton. 

The fibres of cotton in the above drawings represent 
^It, of an inch in length, and are magnified 400 times in 

100 ^ ' *-■ 

diameter. In thickness those fibres vary from ^^q to 
__i__ of an inch. The twists or turns in a fibre of cotton 
are from 300 to 800 in an inch. 



■^>^ 



How Sewing Cottons Are Made. 
Sewing cottons are made by "doubling" the yarn 
produced generally by the throstle-frame, a modification 
of which is also employed for this purpose. Sometimes 
six threads are combined in pairs, so as to give great 
strength for sewing purposes. 



158 

Cotton Spindles in the United States in 1889. 

The accompanying table gives the number of cotton 

spindles in the United States in 1889, as compared with 

1880 and 1887: 

1880. 1887. 1889. 

Alabama 49,432 104,791 96,647 

Arkansas 2,015 6,400 13,700 

California .... *No returns *No returns 

Colorado 

Connecticut 936,376 1,092.524 1.023,928 

Dakota ... 

Delaware 46,188 67,706 61,714 

Florida 816 816 1,300 

Georgia 198,656 406,330 442,148 

Idaho .. . 

Illinois 4,860 27,000 26,000 

Indiana 33,396 59,896 61,868 

Iowa .. . 6,000 

Kentucky 9,022 27.666 42,666 

Louisiana , 6.096 44,028 61,168 

Maine 695,924 824,432 812,722 

Maryland. . , 125,706 176,800 176,800 

Massachusetts 4,236,084 5,330,120 6,905,875 

Michigan .- 5,100 5,500 

Minnesota 1,708 

Mississippi 18,658 47,050 54,800 

Missouri 19,302 17,500 17,500 

Montana .... 

New Hampshire..'...'. 944,053 1,180,648 l,207,3i2 

New Jersey 232,221 351,068 351,068 

New York 561,658 631,676 619,472 

North Carolina 92,385 227,348 321,070 

Ohio 13,327 28,152 26,152 

Oregon 

Pennsylvania 425,391 452,735 445,962 

Rhode Island 1,746.539 1,856,982 1,948,958 

South CaroUna 82,334 232.692 351,040 

South Dakota 

Tennessee 35,736 100,277 116.783 

Texas 2,648 5,174 17,734 

Utah 432 676 288 

Vermont 55,081 63,868 62.775 

Virginia 44,340 68,912 79,612 

Washington Territory .... .... 

West Virginia. .. ... 

Wisconsin 10,000 32,480 32.128 

Wyoming Territory 



Total 10,653,435 13,470,981 14,385,024 



* One MiU. 



Cotton Spindles of other Countries in 1889. 

According to the most reliable reports, the cotton 
spindles of the world, not including the United States, 
in 1889, represented the following: 

England. 42,740,000; European Continent, 23,380,000; 
East India, 2 490,000; Canada, Mexico and South Amer- 
ica, 600,000, and Japan, 100,000. On the European 
Continent Germanv occupies the first place with about 
5,500,000 spindles, and France next with 5,200,000. 



169 

Our Cotton Pactories in l/Ui, 1805, 1812 and 1817. 

Samuel Wilkinson, of Oonnecticnt, says : 
"Nearly all the cotton factories in tliis countrj'-, from 
1791 to 1805, were built under the direction of men who 
had learned the art or skill of building machinery in 
Mr. Samuel Slater's employ. Mr. Slater used to spin 
both warp and filling on the water frame up to 1803. The 
operations of maniifactories up to 1817 were confined to 
spinning yarn only, which was put out in webs and 
woven by hand-loom weavers. Mules for spinning filling 
had not then been introduced. The cotton used to be 
put out to poor families in the country and whipped on 
cords, stretched on a small frame about three feet 
square, and the motes and specks were picked out 
at four to six cents per pound, as it might be, for 
cleanness. 

"In 1812 each spindle in Khode Island and Massa- 
chusetts produced yarn enough weekly to make two and 
a half yards of cloth of the value of 30 cents per yard." 



Only 1,000 Bales of Ootton Consumed in Manufac- 
turing in tlie United States in 1805. 
In 1805 the total consumption of cotton by the manu- 
factories of the United States was a little more than 
1,000 bales. 



Metric System of Length. 
The metre, the unit of length, is the ten-millionth 
part of a line drawn from the pole to the equator. 
1 millimetre = xoVo*^ °^ ^ metre = 0.03937 inches. 
1 centimetre = y^^th of a metre = 0.39370 inches. 
1 decimetre = Jgth of a metre = 3.93708 inches. 
1 metre = as above == 3. 2809 feet. 
1 decametre = 10 metres == 10.9363 yards. 
1 hectometre = 100 "metres = 109.3633 yards. 
I kilometre = 1,000 metre = 0.62138 miles. 



IGO 

Cotton Manufacturing in the South and North Compared. 

According to some authorities the South has several 
advantages over the North and Northeast as a manu- 
facturer of cotton. Some of these are given as follows : 

1. Proximity to raw material. 

2. A superior climate. 

3. Cheaper jDower. 

4. Lower cost of rent and living. 

5. Lower wage scales. 

6. Less liability of strikes. 

7. Cheaper buildings. 

8. Less expense for heating mills. 

9. Saving on freight. 

The dividends paid in 1888 by many Southern mills 
ranged between the extremes of 4 and 28 j)er cent., 
while the average was 11^ per cent. 

As to wages, it would seem that in large Southern 
manufacturing centres the scale of prices does not 
materially vary from those prevalent in the Northern 
mills, there being possibly 5 to 10 per cent, advantage 
in favor of Southern mills, which is probably made up 
to the Northern mills by superior expertness. 

The smaller cotton mills at country points in the 
South get labor for 20 to 25 per cent, less than the scales 
in vogue at the great centres both North and South, 
and it is safe to say that the average paid in the South 
for the same hands is 15 per cent, below the Northern 
average. 



The Draw-Loom. 
So long as a fabric is plain, like shirtings, sheetings^ 
etc., the hand loom will suffice to weave it; but if it is 
figured, an additional apparatus is necessary. In this 
case the warp threads, instead of being raised alter- 
nately, are raised two or more together, then one only, 
then two or more, according to the exigencies of the 
pattern. Hence, two healds will not suffice; there must 
be other mechanism for raising the warp threads in 
some prescribed order. A draw-hoy was at one time 
employed for this purpose. But as the excellence of the 
work depended on the right group of healds being 
pulled up at the right time, and as a boy could not 
always be relied upon here, an improvement called the 
draw-loom was devised, which insured something like 
mechanical precision in this work. 



161 

Philadelphia Ootton Manufactures in 1782. 

The following advertisement is from the Pennsylvania 
Gazette of April 3, 1782. The advertiser is said to have 
been the first one to make "jeans, fustians," etc., in 
America : 

Philadelphia Manufactures-~BXiit&h\e for every season of the year, 
viz: Jeans, Fustians, Coatings, &c., to be sold by the subscriber at 
his dwelling house and Manufactory, in South AUey, betweea Mar- 
ket Str. and Arch Str., and between Fifth and Sixth Streets, on 
Hudson's Square. Samuel Wetherill. 



Ootton Thread of American Origin. 

The Mw York Transcnpl (1831) contains the following 
correspondence, dated South Oxford, Slaterville, R. L, 
November, 1831: 

" Here resides Samuel Slater, the patriarch of manu- 
factures in this country. It is only known to a few 
that the world is indebted to this gentleman for the 
discovery of cotton thread. In 1794, while spinning a- 
quantity of Sea Island cotton, the evenness and beauty 
of the yarn attracted the attention of Mrs. Slater. The 
question arose, if this is doubled and twisted, why will 
it not make good sewing thread? The experiment was 
made, and, in order to be fully satisfied of the result, a 
sheet was made with one-half of linen thread and the 
other half with cotton. It was immediately put into 
use, and the first thread that gave way was the linen. 
From this period he commenced the manufacture of 
thread, and it soon spread into England, France and 
other European countries, where it is generally supposed 
to be of English origin." 



How Cotton Yarns Are Measured. 

Cotton yarn is measured as follows: 54 inches, 1 
thread; 4,320 inches, 80 threads, 1 lea or rap; 30,240 
inches, 560 threads, 7 lea, 1 hank, 840 yards. One spin i le 
of 18 hanks is 15,120 yards. A reel is 54 inches in circuit. 
The "number" of a yarn is the number of hanks, of 840 
yards each of that yarn, weighing 1 pound, thus; Or 
No. 60 yarn, 60 hanks, 840 yards long, weigh 1 pound. 
Of No. 70 yarn, 70 hanks, 840 yards long, weigh 1 pound. 
Of No. 80 yarn, 80 hanks, 840 yards long, weigh 1 pound. 



162 

Production of Cotton G-oods in PiuladelpMa in' 1788. 

Samuel Wetherill, Chairman of the Committee of 
Manufactures, in his report to the Board of Managers 
of the Pennsylvania Society for Promoting Manufactures 
and Useful Arts, says that, from April 12, 1788, to Aug. 
23, 1788, twenty-six looms had wrought the following 
goods: 

Jeans 2,959^ yards. 

Corduroys 197J " 

Federal Ribs 67 " 

Beaver Fustian , 57 " 

Plain Cottons 1,567| " 

Linen 725 

Tow Linen 1,337^ " 

Total 6,911 " 

^'Besides in the looms there are 200 yards of jeans, 
corduroys, cottons and linen, and of manufactured 
goods they have sold at this time (Aug. 23, 1788,) of 
jeans, dyed cotton and linen yarn, fine and tow linen, 
etc., to the amount of £448, 5s., ll^d. 

"In addition to the enumerated articles manufactured 
to the 23d of August, 1788, the following were made up 
to November 1, 1788: 

Jeans 759| yards. 

Corduroys ... 383| ' ' 

Flowered Cotton 39 " 

Cottons 2,095 " 

Flax Linens 123 " 

Tow Linens 494 " 

BirdEy^ 123 " 

Total 4.017 '' 

"And about 240 yards of different kinds of goods now 
iu the looms, the whole amounting to 11,367 yards." 



Production of Cotton G-oods in England Prom 1793 to 

1833. 
In the article of cottons alone, the exports from Eng- 
land between 1793 and 1815, according to Barnes, 
amounted in value to £250,000,000. From 1816 to 1833, 
inclusive, cottons were sent from England to foreign 
markets to the enormous aggregate value of £570,000,000. 



163 

U. S. Import Duty on Cotton Thread, Tarn, Warps, Eto 

On cotton thread, yarn, warps or warp yarn, whether 
single, or advanced beyond the condition of single, by- 
twisting two or more single yarns together, whether on 
beams or in bundles, skeins or cops, or in any other 
form, except spool thread, the U. S. import duty is as 
follows : 

Per lb. Per lb. 

Values not over 25c 10c. 

Values over 25c. not over 40g 15c. 

Values over 40c. not over 50c 20c. 

Values over 50c. not over 60c 25c. 

Values over 60c. not over 70c 33c. 

Values over 70c. not over 80c 38c. 

Values over 80c. not over $1 48c. 

Values over $1. per Ib.^ 50 per cent. 

On spool thread of cotton, each spool not to exceed 100 
yards of thread, 7c. per dozen spools. On the same, ex- 
ceeding 100 yards on each spool, for each additional 100 
yards of thread, or fractional part thereof in excess of 
100 yards, 7c, per dozen spools. 



The Largest Cotton Mill in the World. 
The largest cotton mill in the world is that of Krahn- 
holm, in Russia. This colossal establishment contains 
340,000 spindles and 2,200 looms, disposes of a force of 
6,300 horse power, and gives employment to 7,000 hands. 
The motive power is obtained from a fall on the river 
Marowa, which actuates eight turbines. Four of these 
turbines produce a force of 4,000 horse power each, 
and discharge 16,000 litres of water per second. The 
shafting of the machinery represents 9,426 running 
metres. The workpeople are Russians and Esthonians. 
The week's work is calculated at 79 hours, and the 
wages vary from 12 to 38 roubles per month. 
^^^ 

Hints on Selecting Eope. 
A good hemp rope is hard but pliant^ yellowish or 
greenish gray in color, with a certain silvery or pearly 
lustre. A dark or blackish color indicates that the hemp 
has suffered from fermentation in the process of curing, 
, and brown spots show that the rope was spun while the 
fibres were damp, and is consequently weak and soft in 
those places. 



164 

Fastness ot" Oolors. 

The term "fast color" generally implies that the 
color in question resists the fading action of light, bnt 
it may also imply that it is affected by washing with 
soap and water, or by the action of acids and alkalis, 
etc. In its wide sense it means that the color is not 
affected by any of those influences to which it is des- 
tined to be submitted, but its technical influence is 
often restricted. 

Many colors may be fairly fast to washing with soap 
and water, and yet be very fugitive towards light; or, 
they may be fast to light, and yet very sensitive to the 
action of acids or alkalis. 

The term *' loose color" generally implies that the 
color is much impoverished, or even entirely removed, 
by washing with water or a solution of soap; it may, 
however, also mean that it is not fast to light. 

The word "permanent," as applied to color, generally 
denotes that it is fast to light and other natural influ- 
ences. 

A "fugitive color" is generally understood to be one 
which is not fast to light, or which volatises more or 
less under the influence of heat. 

In the absence, then, of any definite meaning being 
attached to the above terms, it becomes imperative, in 
speaking of the fastness of a color, to refer specially to 
the particular influence which it does or does not resist. 



The Jacquard Loom. 

The Jacquard loom, invented toward the end of the 
last century, is used for weaving figured goods. In 
this loom a chain of perforated cards is made to pass 
over a drum, and the strings by which the threads of 
the warp are raised pass over an edge with a wire or 
laden weight of small diameter suspended from each. 
These weights at each stroke of the loom are presented 
to each successive card, and some of them are inter- 
cepted by the card, while others pass through the holes 
therein, the latter thus determining which threads of 
the warp shall be raised. In this way the figure of the 
card determines the nature of the figure on the fabric. 



165 

Chronology of Ameidcaii Cotton Manufactures. 

1786— Legislature of MaQsactiusetts made a grant to 
Kobert and.Alexander Burr'to aid them in build- 
ing machinery for spinning cotton. 
1787— Grant to Thomas Somers, by the Legislature of 
Massachusetts, to aid him in completing a ma- 
chine for spinnicg cotton. 

First cotton lactory built in the United States at 
Btverly, Mass. 
1788— Some spinning jennies were put in operation in 

Philadelphia, Pa., and Providence. R. I. 
1789— Commencement of the cultivation of Sea Island 
cotton in Georgia from Pernambuco seed. Sam 
Slater came to this country, and was employed at 
New York, where, he said, they had in operation 
one carding machine and two spinning jennies at 
the close of the year. 
1790— Samuel Slater went to Providence, E. I., and began 

building a cotton factory. 
1791— The Slater factory in Providence, R I,, commenced 

spinning early in the year. 
1794— Cotton gin invented by Eli Whitney in 1793, and 

patented March 14, 1794. 
1798 -Cotton mill built by Slater at Pawtucket, E. I. 
1802— Water mill at Beverly, Mass . had Arkwright ma- 
chine put in. 
1804— First cotton mill in New Hampshire commenced 
at New Ipswich in 1803, and began operation in 1804. 
1805— Second cotton mill built at Pawtucket, E. I. 
1806— Cotton mill built at Pomfret, Conn. 
1807— Mill built at Smithfleld, R. I., by Slater ; also a mill 

built at Watertown, Mass. 
1808— Norfolk cotton factory incorporated at Dedham, 

Mass., and a mill built at New Ipswich, N. H. 
1809— First cotton mill in Maine, at Brunswick, 
1811— Mill at Dorchester, Mass., incorporated. 
1813— Incorporation of Boston Manufacturing Co., known 

as the Waltham Co. 
1814 - Power-looms in opeiation in Waltham, Mass., be- 
ing the first in the United States. 
1817— William Gilmore migrated to this country in 1815 
and put the crank-loom in operation in Ehode 
Island in 1817. 
1822— First coUon manufactory built at Lowell, Mass. 
1849— First cotton mill built at Lawrence, Mass. 



166 

Index to Selling Agenis of Domestic Cottons. 

The following is an Index to the Selling Agents of the 
principal brands of domestic cottons, arranged in such 
manner as to make it compact, reliable and convenient 
for qiiick reference on the part of buyers and dealers 
generally. The names of agents are represented by 
figures; e. g.. reserving for the letter A figures 1 to 9; 
B 10 to 19; C 20 to 29; D 30 to 39, and so on all the way 
through. The various brands of cottons are also ar- 
ranged in alphabetical order under their general head- 
ings, and each brand has attached to it the figure or fig- 
ures which represent the selling agent. 



SELLING AGENTS. 



1. 

2. 
10. 
11. 
12. 
13. 

14:. 

15. 
16. 

19. 

20. 
21. 
22. 
23. 
24. 
25. 
26. 

27. 
28. 
29. 
20a 
30. 
31. 
32. 
33. 

34. 
35. 
36. 
51. 

52. 
53. 
60 
65. 

66. 

67. 

70. 

71. 

90. 

100. 



ALDEICH. IDDINGS & CO. 
AMMIDOWN & SMITH. 
BAILEY k CO., JOSHUA L. 
BAKER & CO., FRANCIS. 
BLTSS, FABYAN & CO. 
BREMER & CO., JOHN' L. 
BRINCKERHOFF, TURN ER 

& CO. 
BUTLER, CLAPP, WENTZ & 

CO. 
BERNHEIMER & BROS., 

JACOB S. 
BYRD GEORGE H, 
CATLIN & CO. 
CHAPMAN, MARTIN & CO. 
CONWAY & CO., JOHN M. 
COOKE & CO., CHARLE'5 D. 
COFFIN, ALTEMUS & CO. 
CAKEY, BAYiSE & SMITH. 
CONVERSE, STANTON & 

CULLEN. 
COOKE & CO.. JAMES W. 
CLAFLIN & CO., H. B. 
CONTINENTAL MILLS. 
CARUTH, JOHNG. 
DALE, REED & COOLEY. 
DALE & CO.. HENRY. 
DANA, TUCKER & CO. 
DEERING, MILLIKEN & 

CO. 
DESNY. POOR & CI. 
DUNHAM, BUCKLEY & CO. 
DAVIS & CO., THOS. J. 
FARNUM & CO., JOHN 

(Phila). 
FAULKNER, PAGE & CO. 
FISH, Jr.. & CO., WM. 
GAR-^ER & ( O. 
GROSVENOR & CARPEN- 
TER 
GRISWOLDVILLE M'F'G. 

CO. 
GREER & HERTZEL, 

(Phila). 
HARPER, M. ORLANDO, 
JAFKRAY &C0., E. S. 
JOY, LANGDON & CO. 
KNIGHT, B. B. k R. 



101. KIBBE, CHAFFER & CO. 
i:0. LANGLEY & CO., W. C. 

111. LAWRENCE,TAYLOR & CO, 

112. LAWRENCE & CO. 

113. LEWIS, H. & W H. 

114. LOW & CO.. JOSEPH T. 

115. LESHER, WHITMAN & CO. 

116. LONG BROTHERS & CO.^ 

•JAMES (Phila). 

120. MINOT, HOOPER & CO 

121. MITCHELL, MORRIS & CO. 
130. NEVINS & CO. 

141. OELBERMANN, DOMME- 

RICH k CO. 
150. PARKER, Wn.DER & CO. 
171. ROBINSON, SHACKELTON 

& COOLEY. 

180. SIMPSON, SONS & CO., WM. 

181. SMITH, HOGG & GARD- 

NER. 

182. STRONG & CO., WM. L. 
1S3. SHERIDAN & CO., G. K. 

184. SAMPSON & CO.,0. H. 

185. SWEETSER, PEMBROOK & 

CO. 

186. STORER, WILLIAM. 

190. TOWNSEND & YALE, 

191. TEFFT, WELLER & CO. 

192. TRAINOR & SONS, D. (Lin- 

wood, Pa.). 

193. TIBBITS, HARRISON & 

ROBBINS. 

194. TODD, MURPHY & CO. 
210. VAN VALKENBURGH & 

CO, P. 

220. WHEELWRIGHT, ELD- 

RIDGE & CO. 

221. WHITE, PAYSON & CO. 

222. WHITMAN. CREIGHTON & 

CO. 

223. WHIT IN. COLLINS & CO. 

224. WOODWARD BALDWIN. 

225. WEED & BROTHER. 

^.26. WESTBROOK MFG, CO. 
2>7. WILSON & BRADBURY. 

228. WOODRUFF. HENRY G. 

229. WEST & INGALLS. 

230. WILLIS, GRINNEL. 



Note — This list is made up to December 18, 1F89, but as change.? 
of firms and transfers of accounts a.?nally take place about January 
1st of each year, some corrections and additions will probably have 
to be made to it by the insertion of an addenda leaf. 



167 

Index to Bleached Sheetings and Shirtings. 

ABC, 223; Adriatic, 24; Allendale, 11 and 30; Alpine JRose, 
228; Altoona, 11; Alexandria, 13; AUegtianj', 70; Amesbury, 90; 
Amory, 13; Androscoggin, 12; Art Cambric, 223; Atlantic, 20; 
Aurora, 11; Avondale, 24. Ballardvale, 24; Barker, 33; Bay Mills, 
110; Berkley Cambric, 111; Berkley Madapolam, 111; Berkshire, 
30; Best Yet, 11; Big Bonanza, 13; Blackstone, 111; Blizzard, 
24; Boston, 190,220; Bric-a-brac, 24; Brentwood, 11; Brighton, 90; 
Boott,181; Burleigh Long Cloth, 230; Busy Bee, 11, Cabot, 220; 
Cascade, 33; Cast Iron, 33; China, 33; Champion, 181; Chapman, 
100; Charter Oak, 114; thicopee Mfg. Co., 20; Clinton, 100; Cock of 
the "Walk, 223: CHftou Mills, 220; Ceutreville Mills, 24; Conestoga, 51; 
Conquest, 114; Columbia 33; Continental, 29; Conway, 120; Cooley 
Homestead, 30; Copper Fastened, 25; Coral Reef, 24; Cohasset, 13: 
Crusader, 11; Cumberland, 111, Dauntless, 24; Davol Mill. 24; 
Defiance, 11; De Soto, 171; Devon, 24; Dial, 181; Diamond Field, 
223; Diamond-Hill Cambric, 230; Dunedin, 11; Dwight-Anchor, 
120; Dunellen Mills, 30, Easthampton, 70; Edwards, 12; Edward 
Harris, 23; Eldorado, 13; Elkwood, 228; Ellerton, W. S, 20; 
Excelsior, 23; Exeter Manufacturing Co , 220. Fairfax, 113; 
Fairmount, 33; Farmers A., 11; Farmers Choice, 111; Farwell, 
220; Fairfield, 24; Family Favorite, 11; Favorite, 223; Fauntlerov, 
101; Fearless, 24; Fidelity, 100; Pirst Call, 114; Fitchville, 111; 
P. P. F. Cambric, 65; Forget-Me-Not, 111; Forrest Mills, 223; 
Forrestdale, 113; Franklin ville. 90; Fruit-of-the Loom, 100; 
Full Value, 11; First Prize, 11. Garland, 24: Gem-of-the Spindle, 
11; GlenAlpine.il; Gleudale, 12; George Washington, 120; Gilded 
• Age, 220; Gilt Edge, 25; Golden Rod, 15; Gold Medal, 223; Great 
Fans, 120; Golden Wedding, 30; Greene, 111; Green Ticket. 30; Grin- 
nell, 230; Great Republic, 24; Grosvenor Dale, 65; Gypsy Queen, 
24; Gibraltar, 33; Globe, 30. Hercules, 33; Harvest, 11; Harvest 
E., 181: Hillsdale, 229; Homestead. 30; Hope, 111; Hills 
Semper Idem, 32; Holly Tree Cambric, 193; Hero, 100; Holmesville, 1 ; 
Housekeeper, 33; H. G. W., 228; Homespun, 33; Honest Household, 
11; H. T, B., 30, Imperial. 13; Indian Head, 32; Iron Pier, 30; Iron 
Prince, 228; Invincible, 70. JcAvitt Citv, 184; Jacque Rose Cam- 
bric, 228; Just Out, 24. King PhiHip Cambric, 26; Knight's Cam- 
bric, 100; King Bee, 24; K. M. Q., 230. Laconia, 12; Lafayette, 11; 
Lancaster, 150; Landseer, 100; Langdon, 13; Lexington Mfg. Co., 
11; Lily of the Valley, 11; Linwood, 223; Little Chief, 100; Loch 
Lomond cambric, 31; Lockwood, 33; Lonsdale, 111; Lonsdale cam- 
bric, 111; Lowell, 150, Magic, 114; Magnolia. 70; Masonville, 65; 
Milton Falls, 111; Mohawk VaUey Cotton Mills, 111; Shrunk, 23; 
Monadnock, 150; Monohansett, 24; Monogram, 30. Nan tuck, 191; 
Newmarket, 90; Naumkeag, 13; Nashua, 32; New Bedford, 230; Ne 
Plus Ultra, 24; New Candidate, 171;' No Dicker, 171; New York Mills, 
114. Oak Grove, 11; Oak Lawn, 114; Oak View, 90; One of the Finest, 
15; Ontario, 11; Our Choice, 11; Our Own, 24; Our Reliance, 24; 
Oakland, 33. Paragon, 24; Pembroke, 24; Pelham, 20; Peabody, 
20; Pennant, 15; PeppereU, 12; Perennial, 13; Plymouth, 11; 
Pride of the Nation, 30; Pequot, 13; Paragon, 24; Powhattan, 24; 
Pioneer, 24; Pioneer of the Market, 11; Pennant, 15; Pocahontas, 
24; Pride of the West, 24; Prosperity. 24, Quinnebaug, 33; Queen, 
70. Reading Dairy, 24; Rutledge, 30; Resolute, 191; Rhode Is- 
land, 111; Royal, 24; Rosalind, 181; Rosebud, 100; Rochdale, 24. 
Scituate, 15; Shamrock, 70; Senate, 114; Second to None, 114; Sea 
Island, 100; Snow White, 11; Sensation, 24; Security, 24; Sentinel, 
24; Signal. 24; Silver Queon, 15; Standard, ICO; Star W., 223; Sterl- 
ing, 24; Simlight, 24; Social, 23. Tea Rose, 228; Trump Card, 171; 
Trosseau, 24; The Cooley Homestead, 30; Ten Strike, 223; The 
Penuant,15; The Sun Cotton, 120; Tiger Lily, 171; True-as-Steel, 181; 
Tuscarora, 113; Thistle Mills, 24. Utica Steam MiHs, 111; Utica 
Diamond U., 111. Valley Mills, 171; Victoria long cloth, 230; Vine- 
yard, 220 Wamsutta, 230; Warren Mfg. Co., 12; Washington, 120; 
Water Witch, 24; Wauregan, 113; Water Lily. 220; Whiting, 24; 
White Horse, 111; White Rock, 111; WhitinsviBe, 223; Williams- 
ville, 24; Woodbury, 24; Winchester, 120; Wealth of the Country, 
114; Wessacnmcou, 90. X, Y, Z, 223. 



168 

Index to Brown Sheetings and Shirtings. 

Adriatic, 32; Alaska, 11; AHenclale, 30; Alligator, 24 ; Aniory Mfg, 
Co., £, 13; Androscoggin, 12; Anuiston, 223; Appleton, 32; Arch- 
ery bunting, 222; Argyle, 181; Arizona, 24; Ashland, 181; Atlanta, 
24; Atlantic, 20; Augusta, 224. Bedford, 181; Bellview, 19; Ben- 
nington, 181; Black Crow, 24; Big Bonanza, 13; Blue Ridge, 224; 
Boott, 181; Boston, 220; Buck's Head, 33; Busy Bee, 11; Burlington 
11; Burley, 150. Cabot, 120; Calvert, 33; Cameron, 33; Capitol, 24; 
Cast Iron, 33; Central Falls, 70; Century, 33; Ceylon bunting, 33; 
Charleston, 110; Chesterfield, 223; Chieftain of the Glen, 11; Comet, 
20; Conestoga, 182; Constitution, 12; Columbia, 33; Crusader, 11; 
Cresenta, 23; Charter Oak, 23. Darlington, 33; Decatur, 24; Derby, 
24; Dwight, 120. Echo Lake, 120; Eldorado, 13; Ellsworth, 191; 
Enterprise, 224; Ettrick, ]9; Exeter, 220; Exposition, 23, Euf aula, 
224. Farmer A., 11; Farmer No. ].. 24; Fountain City, 53; Foxhall, 
220; Fruit of the Loom. 100; Full Yard Wide. 220. Great Falls, 120; 
Grafton, 223; Graniteville, 19. Hamilton County, 53; Harvest, 11; 
Honest Width Yardstick, 181; Housewife, 120; Hill, 32; Huron D., 
120. Indian Head. 32; Integrity, 24. Just Eight, 120. King Mfg. Co., 
John P., 53. Lacouia, 12; Lancaster, 32 and 150; Langley, 110; Law- 
rence, 190; Lehigh, 24; Lockwood, 33; Laurel Dale, 24; Log Cabin, 
120; Lowell, 150; Lyman. 120. Massachusetts, 181; Mechanics, 24; 
Milton, 28; Mohawk Valley Cotton Mills, 111; Monadnock, 150; 
Mystic River, 181. Nabob Royal, 70; Nashua, 32; Natchez, 24; 
National bunting, 66; Naumkeag, 13: Newberry, 223; Newmarket, 
90; New York Mills, 114; Niobe, 90; Norfolk, 90. Oriental, 24; 
Ozark, 13, Pacific, 20; Pacolet, 33; Park, 24; Pelzer, 110; 
Plymouth, 11; Pembroke, 24; Pepperell, 12; Pequa, 51; Pequot, 13; 
Princeton, 183; Piedmont, 224; Pocahontas, 24; Pocasset Canoe, 24; 
Pioneer, 24; Portsmouth, 2; Prescott, 181; Pride of the Nation, 30; 
Princess bunting, 66. Riverside, 90, Rockingham, 183; Royal 
"340, ' 191; Rosalie, 23; Rose of the Valley, 24. Salisbury, 12; 
Saracen, 181; Saranac, .32; Scotia, 70; Sea Foam, 33; Sea Shore, 24: 
Shamrock, 70; ShaM'mut. 181; Sherman, 70; Springfield, 181; Stark, 
13; Statue of Liberty, 191; Sun Tissue, 33; Superior W. E., 220. 
Tennis, 223. Utica Cotton Co., Ill; Utica Steam Mills, 111. Vir- 
ginia Family, 19. Wachiisett, 32; Wamsutta, 113; Washington, 24; 
Wasuc, 223; WaterviUe, 33; Wbitefield, 33; Williamsville, 24; Win- 
throp. Continental Mills, World Wide, 220. Yardstick, 181„ 

Cotton Drills. 

Adriatic, 32; Anniston, 224; Appleton, 32; Atlanta, 24; Augusta, 
224. Boott, 181. Calvert, 33; Charleston, 110; Clifton, 220; Cones- 
toga, 51; Continental, 51. Darlington, 33. Ettrick, ]9; Eufaula, 224. 
Graniteville, 19. Hamilton, 90; Harper, 70. King Mfg. Co., John P., 
220. Laconia, 12; Lanark, 24; Langley, 110; Lyman, 120. Massachu- 
setts, 181. Natchez, 24. Pacolet, 33; Piedmont, 224; Pepperell, 12; 
Prescott, 181. Rock River, 12; Rosalie, 23. Sheldrake, 23. Roval 
Standard, 191. Stark, 13; Sibley, 23; Sufliolk, 181; Superior .181. 
Tennessee, 70. 

Denims. 

Amoskeag, 13; Artisans, 13. Beaver Creek, 12; Boston Medal, 12. 
Columbian, 12. East.n. 23; Everett, 181. Hamilton, 90; Hay- 
maker, 12. Jewitt City, 184. Lawrence, 190; Lewistou, 2. Omega, 
192; Otis, 12. Palmer, 12; Pearl River, 13; Pemberton, 130. Rosa- 
lie, 23. Saco River. 181; Shetucket, 32; Sibley, 23. Thorndike, 12. 
Uncasville, 170. Wachusett, Ibl; Warren 12. York, 181. 



Ginghams. 



Abbotsford, 11; A. F. C, 13; Amoskeag, 13; Arasapha, 10; Arling- 
ton 224. Barnaby Mfg. Co., 24; Bates, 12. Calcutta, 20; Cumber- 
land, 22. Everett Classics, 181; Egremont, 224; Empire, 224. Glou- 
cester, 114; Gotham, 67; Greylocks, 224. Imperial Seersucker, 13. 
Johnson Mfg. Co., 34. Lancaster, 32, Manchester, 23: Manville Co., 
141; Marguerite. 224; Massabesic, 13. Normandie, 32. Parkhill Mfg. 
Co., 34; J ark Mills, 170. Renfrew, 210. Saccarappa, 226; Slaters- 
ville. 227. Toile du Nord, 34; Tuscany, 224. Wamsutta, 24; West- 
brook, 226; White Mfg. Co., 20; Whitteuton, 52. York. Ibl. 



169 

Index to Checks and Cheviots. 

Amoskeagf, 13; Arasapha, 10; Alabama, 1. Bates, 12; Bengalese 
Cloth, 116. Columbian, 12; Conestoga, 51. Degner, 13; Delhi, 
27. Eagle, 12; Everett, 181. Greenville, 12. Eastou, 23. Jewitt 
City, 113. Kenmore, 116. Maasabesic, 13. Great Western, 22. Otis, 
12. Loch Lomond, 33. Sea Island, 27; Slatersville, 227; Sibley, 23; 
Slater, 184. Thorudike, 12. Uncasville, 170. York, 181, 

Corset Jeans. 

Amory, 13; Androscoggin, 12. Biddeford, 12. Conestoga, 182. Ed- 
wards, 12; Empire, 2. Kearsage, 220. Laconia, 12; Lexington, 24. 
IS'aumkeag, 13; Narragausett, 24. Pepperill, 12. Quiunebaug, 2. 
Eockport, 12. 

Printed Calicoes. 

Allen's, 111; American, 12; Anchor; Shirtings, 180; Arnold's. 52. 
Berlin, 180. Charter Oak, 60; Cocheco, 112. Dresden, 11. Eddy- 
stone, 180; Elberon, 11. Garner & Co., 60, Hamilton, 90; Har- 
mony. 60. Imperial, black, 180. Lodi, 34. Manchester, 221 ; Martha 
"Washington, 24; Merrimack, 220; Mystic Print Works, 184. Pacific 
Mills, 112; Passaic, 34. Ramapo, 60. Steel River, 60; Stirling, 25; 
St. Ledger, 60; Sultan, TurkevRed, 180. Victoria, 180. Washington, 
24; Windsor, 210. 

Silesias and Sateens. 

Black Rock, 36. Caledonia, 16; Cambridge, 121; Capitol, 115; 
Centennial, 136; Conestoga, 182: Crown, 115. English, KK, 16; 
French, XX, 16. German, AB, 16; Globe, 30. Hopeville, 186." 
Kearsage, 220. Lonsdale, ill; Lonsdale, colored cambric, 111. 
Pepperill Sateens, 12. Social, 23. Victory, 20. White Star, 36- 
Windsor, 36. 

Tickings. 

Araoskeag, 13. Brandywine Mills, 51. Conestoga, 51 ; Cordis, 12; 
Challenge, 20a; Colchester, 27. Everett, 181; Elmwood, 184. Falls 
Co., 32; Farmers, 184; First Prize. 90. Hamilton, 90; Heifer, 184. 
Imperial, 90. Jewitt City, 184. Lancaster, 51. Massabesic, 13; 
Methuen, 130; Monroe, 27. New England, 12. Oakland, 52; Ocean, 
113; Omega, 192. Palmer, 12; Pearl River, 13; Pemberton, 130; 
Poole, 52; Princeton, 184. Rosemont, 51. Slatersville, 227; She- 
tucket, 32; Swift River, 12. Thorndike, 12; Warren, 12. Yeomans, 
313; York, 181. 

Cambrics (Flat Pold). 

Edwards Mfg. Co., 12. Equity, 2. Fifth Avenue, 2. Lockwood, 33. 
Slater & Sons, 185. Warren, 12; Washington, 20. 

Canton Plannels. 

Amoskeag, 13. Chicopee Mfg. Co., 20. Ellerton, 20. Hamilton, 90. 
Laconia, 12; Lawrence, 190; Lyman, 120. Massabesic, 13; Massa- 
chusetts, 181; Methuen, 130. Nashua, 32. Ocean, 12; Otis, 12. Pem- 
berton, 130. Royal Standard, 19i. Tremont, 181. 

Cottonades. 

Aberdeen, 16; Andover, 115; Albany, 15. Bell D. & T., 10; Bruns- 
wick 10. Fairhaven, 10; Falls Co., 32. Chicopee, 15. Everett, 181. 
Golden Rvile, 15. Kenmore, 10. Manchester, 15; Merrimack, 181. 
N. Y. Mills, D. & T., 114; Nova Scotia. 17; Niantic, 16. Our Choice, 
15; Oxmead, 16. Park Mills. 170; Pemberton, 130. Southern, 10. 
Trenton, 186. Unadilla, 186. Wachusett, 181; Wear Well, 10. 
York, 181. 

Stripes. 

American, 32; Amoskeag, 13. Bates, 12: Boston, 12. Cordua, 184; 
Columbian, 12; Conestoga, 51. Eagle, 12; Easton, 23; Everett, 181. 
Granville, 90; Glasgow, 184. Hamilton, 90. Jewitt t ity, 184, Mass- 
abesic, 13. Omega, 192; Ctiz, 12. Rock River, 23. Sheridan, 184. 
Thorudike. 12. Volunteer, 184. Uncasville, 170. York, 181. 



170 

Analysis of the Widths, Weights, Counts or Picks of 
Domestic Cottons. 
Beginning on page 173, under the respective headings 
of "Brown Sheetings and Shirtings," "Bleached Sheet- 
ings and Shirtings," etc., will be found tables giving the 
widths, weights, counts of threads or picks of the prin- 
cipal makes of domestic cottons, ginghams, etc. In each 
instance these have been carefully measured, weighed^ 
and the picks counted by expert?, with the aid of the 
most approved modern appliances used for such pur- 
poses. In addition to the ordinary magnifying glass 
usually employed in counting the threads or picks of 
cotton cloth. The Dey Goods Chkonicle sent to Switzer- 
land and had specially made to order an improved and 
graduated thread or pick counter, of which the following 
is a good illustration : 




UNIVEBSAL THREAD OB PICK COUNTER. 

This instrument consists of a highly polished steel 
plate with beveled sides, upon which the desired scales 
are engraved. The side containing the scale is placed 
upon the sample, the threads of which are to be counted 
running parallel either with the warp or the filling. 
The lines of the scale are of such a length that the 
operator, in his counting of the threads, is not confined 
to certain principal lines, such as one-quarter or one- 
half inch, but may cease counting at any line he may 
desire. 



171 
Upon the tipper face of the steel plate stand two 
brass uprights with perforations, serving as bearings to 
a small shaft which is throughout its whole length, from 
one upright to the other, furnished with a fine screw 
thread of about one millimeter pitch. When this screw 
is revolved by means of the small milled head it moves 
backward or forward a square nut, the lower side of 
which rests upon the steel plate. Upon the front side 
of the nut is a magnifier, which can be moved up or 
down. One-half of it is above the scale on the beveled 
side of the steel plate, while the other half projects be- 
yond it and includes the weave under examination. 

Under the centre of the magnifier, fastened to the 
lower edge of the square nut, is a fine index needle, 
reaching to the outer edge of the scale division, so that 
its point always touches the thread and the scale division 
at the same place. 

When the screw is turned it moves the nut, together 
with magnifier and index needle, and the operator may 
at his ease count thread for thread in the steady prog- 
ress of the needle, it being only necessary to watch the 
latter and the thread pointed to, until it arrives at a 
division where it is desired to stop counting. If the 
operator wishes to continue counting, he may simply 
jot down the number and proceed after having rested 
his eye. 

The steel plate is beveled upon each side, and corre- 
sponding scales are engraved upon each. The needle 
can be displaced about 1^ inches, and the magnifier can 
be raised or lowered to suit the eye of the opei'ator. 

For these reasons this improved magnifier and thread 
counter is now the instrument chiefly used in the 
analysis or inspection of weaves in Switzerland and 
other European countries. The old magnifier com- 
monly used is set in a piece of metal hinged to an up- 
right, with a foot hinged to the latter. The three 



172 

pieces, each about one inch square, can be folded to- 
gether and carried in the vest pocket. 

The little square hole in the foot piece of the ordi- 
nary magnifier varies in size according to the kind of 
■weave to be examined. On the one hand, a small hole is 
objectionable, because "with the least displacement it 
causes errors in the counting of the threads. On the 
other hand, a large hole is equally objectionable, es- 
pecially if a weave with a close warp is to be counted. 
Every manufacturer or expert knows how difficult it is 
to count from thirty to fifty and more threads in a 
space of one-quarter of one square inch with a mag- 
nifier of this kind. The eye tires, and the result is so 
uncertain that after repeated countings the operator 
arrives at only approximate results. In order to avoid 
difficulties of this kind, perhaps nearly every one has 
recourse to some method of his own invention to assist 
Jiim in his labor. Most universally used, perhaps, is 
a fine needle, in order to offer a certain rest to the 
eye, after having counted a definite number of threads. 
Even this is not entirely reliable, because, while mark- 
ing on the paper, the analyzer may forget the number 
■of threads counted, and must recommence counting. 

In order to avoid as much as possible the difficulties 
enumerated, the Universal Thread Counter has been 
used, in conjunction with ordinary counting glass. The 
most approved weighing scales and width measures 
have also been employed, with the results, it is believed, 
of making generally the most accurate and reliable 
tables of widths, weights and counts or picks of brown, 

bleached and colored cottons, ginghams, etc., ever pre- 
sented to the trade of this country. "While the tables 
in question are not altogether complete in some in- 
stances (and possibly some few errors may have unavoid- 
ably crept into the analysis of the same), they will 
in due time be completed, and all errors be corrected in 
the revised editions of the work, which will appear an- 
nuall}', with added improvements. 



173 

BEOWN SHEETINGS AND SHIRTINaS. 



f^ctrnp Width. 

J\ame. Inches. 

Aberford Standard 36 

AcorD 36 

Adriatic 36 

Agawan 36 

Agawan, XX 30 

Alabama . . 27 

Albany, LL 36 

« BB 36 

Aliska 36 

Alexandria 42 

Alpha 36 

Allendale 54 

♦' 7-4 

«• ; 8-4 

9-4 

10-4 

11-4 

L 12-4 

Alli«:ator 27 

'• 26 

American, XX 36 

American Mills, CD 36 

Amory Mfg. Co 36 

36 

«' LL 40 

Anchor, L 36 

Androscoggin 46 

♦* 48 

7-4 

8-4 

9-4 

]0-4 

11-4 

Antelope, A 36 

Anniston 36 

Appleton A 36 

A 36 

*' FineAA 35 

FineAA 35 

GG 35M 

Hne GG 35% 

•« R 36 

XX 36 

Archery Bunting 36 

Argyle Family cotton 36 

" " 40 

Arizona 36 

Arrow 36 

Ascot 36 

Ashland 36 

Ashland 36 

AtlantiAA improved 36 

'-' AA....:. 36 

BB 30 

Altantic A 36 

" H 36 

p 36 

•• T).'.'.'. 36 

'« V 30 



Yards to 


Picks to 


Found. 


Inch. 


2.84 


48x48 


4.00 





4 00 


52x44 


12.00 


86x36 


4.00 


56x56 




64x72 


3.95 


72x80 


3 ".86 


64x68 


2.B6 


60x64 


2.07 


60x64 


1 84 


60x64 


1.65 


60x64 


1.51 


60x64 


1.38 


60x64 


13.00 


36x36 


13.55 


40x32 


2 54 


52x56 


3.98 


5lix48 


3.84 


80x76 


3.68 


76x76 


3.49 


80x72 


6.65 


44x44 


3 36 


72x72 


3.10 


72x72 


2.14 


72x72 


1.87 


72x72 


1.66 


72x72 


1.50 


72x72 


"" , 


72x72 


3.26 


44x44 


3.2) 


48x44 


2.76 


48x52 


2.80 


44x50 


4.39 


60x60 


4.37 


60x56 


2.86 




4.53 


56x60 


8.70 


64x64 


4.17 


56x56 


8.20 


44x48 


3.52 


60x64 


3.25 


60x64 



68x76 



6.90 


44x44 


3 00 


46x48 


3.00 


46x48 


3.50 


48x48 


2.85 


48x48 


2.95 


52x56 


4.00 


56x56 


3.33 


48x48 


3.61 


52x52 



174 

Brown Sheetings and biiirtingB 

» ,, Width. 

Name. Inches. 

Atlantic LL 36 

LL 36 

5-4 

«« * 5-4 

«« ■ 6-4 

«' ""*.'.' 7-4 

« ■" * 8-4 

»• 9-4 

«' ■/.■.*. 10-4 

;;.* 11-4 

" Comet 36 

" Comet 40 

A^las E 35 

Augusta A, No. 1 36 

■;; .■;.■.■;; 27 

Aur. ra LL 36 

«• () 31 

•« R 36 

•' B 36 

Badgrer Scate LL 36 

RR 36 

•• R 36 

Bangor J.. 30 

»< F 36 

BB..'."., 36 

•• C 30 

Banner . . 36 

Baltic HL 33 

Beaver Dam LL 36 

Bedford R 30 

BellviewXX 36 

Belfast ii 30 

«' H 30 

Bea'^on 36 

Bennington AL 36 

'« FF 36 

, «« M 36 

R 30 

«« C 36 

Black Crow 36 

36 

Black Rock 36 

Boott FF Sandard 36 

-'• Sterling 36 

•' 2d * 36 

•• " 66 

Boott, Warwick 36 

" C 34 

*• Sq. Sterling 36 

" AL 36 

•' PL 40 

Boston 45 

•« 50 

" 5-4 

•« 6-4 

•< .. 7-4 

.' ."■*.'.... 8-4 

" 9 4 

«' . 10-4 



Continued. 



Yards to 


Picks to 


Pound. 


Inch. 


5.03 


64x64 


4.94 


64x64 


2.69 


68x72 


2.74 


6Sx68 


2.18 


68x68 


1.82 


68x68 


1.68 


68x68 


1.46 


64x68 


1.32 


68x68 


3.'45 


64x64 


3.11 


64x64 


3.79 


60x60 


3.03 


48x48 


3.63 


40x40 


4.52 


40x40 


4.00 


56x60 


5.50 


40x44 


3.60 


68x68 




64x68 


4.00 


56x56 


3 75 


64x64 


3.45 


64x64 


4.13 


48x44 


2.90 


48x48 


4.05 


56x66 


4.50 


56x5« 


4. 00 


56x56 


S.96 


64x68 


3>7 


56x56 


3.15 


64x68 


2 90 


48x48 


3 54 


60x64 


6.00 


64x64 


3*. 70 


60x64 


3.66 


60x64 


3.61 


64x68 


2.89 


48x48 


3.60 


60x64 


3 81 


6ox60 


3.81 


62x60 


4. '09 


58x60 


3 ".29 


68x68 


2.86 


68x68 


2^22 


72x72 


2.49 


68x64 


2.29 


68x68 


1.97 


72x72 


1.73 


72x72 


1.52 


72x72 


1.38 


72x72 



175 

!^^ Brown Sheetings and Shirtings- 

^ „ Width, 

Name, Inches. 

Boynton 28 

Broadway 36 

Brigrhton Mills, A 40 

R 36 

Busy Bee 36 

33 

.* 7-8 

Burlington *-4 

•' 7-8 

Buckshead 86 

Buck's Head 40 

Buckingham 36 

Cdbot, A (Dwight) 36 

" No.lO(M) 36 

" W 36 

Calvert Mfg. Co 36 

" " 36% 

Cambria 36 

Calumet, A 56 

B 36 

•• c 36 

LL 36 

X 36 

Cameron, D 36 

Carlyle 40 

" 28 

Capttol, A. 36 

" B 30 

•' c 28 

XX 36 

Cartwright 36 

•« CW 36 

Cartwrlght Mills 36 

Cary,a.W 36 

Cast-Iron Brand, C 36 

«« " 36 

Cedar Falls, AA 36 

Central 36 

32 

Central Fads 36 

Century, A 40 

•' B 86 

" B 36 

« C 32 

" D 27 

«• E 36 

L ". 28>; 

Century Cotton B 36 

L 28 

Ceylon Bunting 36 

Charleston O 36 

ER 30 

^ •« C 27 

Star 36 

Cherry Mountain 36 

Charter Oak 36 

Champion Mills K 31>^ 

Chatham AA Stan'd 36 

Chesterfield Mills A 36 

Chippewa C 36 



-Continued. 



Yards to 


Picks to 


Pound. 


Inch 


8.38 


56x56 


4.50 


44x56 


3.18 




3.18 




4.35 


64x64 


2'. 85 


48x48 


3.17 


48x48 


2! 97 


48x48 




76x80 


3 45 


48x48 


2.93 


48x48 


2.86 


48x48 


2^85 


48x48 


2 95 


48x52 


3 30 


56x60 


4.00 


56x56 


5.45 


48x48 



5.24 



6.22 

3' 69 

4.08 



4 82 
3.69 
4.82 



5.92 
2.78 



64x66 



4.83 


48x52 


4.64 


52x56 


4.86 


52x56 


3.03 


48x44 


3.13 


68x72 


3.07 


68x76 



44x40 

68x72 
68x72 



64x64 
68x72 
64x64 



64x64 
48x46 



176 



Brown Sheetings and Shirtings— Continued. 



■KFnrr^o Width, 

iVame. Inches. 

Chittenango A 36 

Clarion LL 36 

Clifton COO 36, 

ceo 36i 

(World wide) E 36 

(Arrow) 36 



CC 

C 

D 

Oohasset A, heavy. 



Comet C. 



31 
29 
28 
36 
J) 
36 
40 

Common Sense 36 

Concord 36 

Collingwood . . . 36 

Columbia 36 

Coneetoga W 36 

S 33 

G 30 

D 28 

Conestogo 10-4 

11-4 

Constitution 36 

9-8 

" 40 

f. " f2 

•« 45 

•• 48 

36 
40 
40 
42 
45 
48 
36 



Continent 1 C 

D 

D 

" E 

" W 

E 

" half bleached 

Cotton Vrt lley Mills C 36 

Orescent D 36 

CrownXXX 36 

DanRiver 36 

Darlington 36 

« 40 

Daphne 36 

Dayton 36 

Decatur 28 

Derbv 36 

Des Moines 36 

Diamond B 36 

Dwiffht 36 



Improved X. 



DMC. 



Star. 



30 
27 
36 
36 
36 
40 

" Anchor 36 

'• '♦ 40 

'• " 42 

Eagle A 36 

36 



Yards to 
Pound. 
4.70 
4.00 
3.03 
2.87 



3.64 



8.68 
4 66 



Picks to 
Inch. 
44x44 

48x44 

48x44 



48x44 



3.45 


64x64 


3.11 


64x64 


4 02 


68x72 


B.hi 


60x60 


4.18 


60x60 


4.73 


60x60 


5.11 


60x60 


1.28 


56x52 


1.12 


56x52 


3.48 


64x68 


s'.ii 


64x68 


2.93 


64x68 


2.76 


64x68 


2.76 


64x64 


3.50 


64x68 


3.27 


68x72 


3.05 


64x72 


2.92 


64x78 


2.75 


64x68 


2.63 


64x68 


3! 79 . 


60x62 


2. '85 


48x48 


2!85 


* * * * 



52x52 
64x72 



3.94 


76x84 


4.65 


64x64 


4.78 


60x64 


3.81 


72x72 


3 97 


76x80 


4.02 


80x76 


3.40 


80x76 


3.26 


72x72 


8.00 


72x72 



177 

JBrown Sheetings and Shirtings 

Name. ?^^i^^' 

„ , ^ Inches. 

Echo Lake 36 

40 

Edgefield A 36 

Eldorado^ 36 

Empire AA 36 

*' 32 

Enterprise EE . . . ...... . 36 

EttricikAA 36^ 

'• EE 36 

Eufaula 36 

" 32 

" 27 

Eureka 32 

Exeter A 36 

" S.. 33 

" C 40 

Exposi ion A 36 

B 30 

FairmouQt E 28 

H 36 

Fall Brook 36 

Farwell Mills hf-blc'd 36 

Farmer A 36 

" BB 32 

" extra No. 1 28 

Fine Sheetings 36Vi 

First Call 3-4 

Florida 36 

Forest Mills 36 

Fountain City. 36 

Foxhall A 27 

Fruit of the Loom .... 8-4 

" 9-4 

" 10-4 

Georgia A 36 

B. 36 

- 32 

Germain 36 

Globe BB 34 

Glendale 36 

30 

" B 36 

Golden Gate 36 

Good as Wheat 36 

Grafton Extra A 28 

Granite A , 36 

B 32 

C 28 

Graniteville A 36 

EE 36 

HHH 36 

C 27 

BR 27 

RR 29t% 

Great Falls Co , E 36 

J 36 

N 36 

XX 36 

Great Western . . 36 

Greystone Steam Mills, R . 86 



— Continued. 

Yards to 

Pound, 

3 60 

8.49 



4.08 
4.56 

4 ".66 



Picks to 
Inch. 
72x63 
64x64 

68x64 



3.95 


52x52 


2.81 


48x48 


2.91 


48x48 



64x64 
64x64 

48x48 



4.00 




4 55 


64x64 


6.69 


60x60 


5.15 


44x44 


3. '65 


68x68 


4.63 


48x52 


4.33 


36x44 


1 70 


68x68 


1.P6 


68x68 


1.32 


68x68 



2.96 


44x44 


3.40 




4.02 





4;i6 


76x84 


6 95 


64x68 


4 '77 


48x62 


3!66 


48x52 


3.00 


48x48 


4'. 67 


40x40 


3.77 


48x48 


3.42 


.... 


3.00 


52x56 


4.27 


64x68 


5.17 


50x48 


4.60 


56x56 


2 98 


48x48 


3.70 


64x6C 



178 



Brown Sheetings and Shirtings— Continued. 



Name, 
Griffla AA... 



Width. 
Indies. 

36 

♦' H 30 

Hamilton Co. Mills 36>$ 

H roldM 36 

Hartford, A 35 

Harvest 36 

" 33 

Henderson A. 36 

Henrietta EE 36 

" FFF 36 

Here You Are 36% 

HildrethA 36^ 

Hill Semper Idem 36 

Hill Semper Idem 36 

Holbrook Mills R 36 

Honest Household 86 

Honest Width 86 

36 

36% 

40 

7-8 

HoosierLL 86 

Housewife Friend LL 36 

" extra. 36 

Huguenot Mills C... ...... 36 

A 36 

A 36 

B 36 

H 

Huron D 353/$ 

Hyde Park, AAA 36 

Hyde Park. XXX 36 

Hyde Park, XX 36 

Hyde Park, X 36 

Illinois C 36 

Indiana Standard C 36 

LL 36 

Indian Head A. . . . : 36 

E 48 

D 49 

B 30 

Integrity XX 36 

International, C 36 

Invincible 30 

Ironside A 36 

Irving Mills XX 36 

James River, HH 36 

Jellico Mills, A , 36 

B 30 

Jonesville 36 

Jones' long cloth, CC 39% 

Just Right 36 

Juniata, B 36 



r-- 



King Mfg. Co., AA. 
EX.. 
EC. 
RR.. 
EC. 
XX.. 
IXL 



36 
36 
32 
30 
32 
40 
40 



Yards to 
Pound. 



5.15 
4.17 
5.25 



3.82 



5.51 



86 
10 
83 



4.15 
3.50 
3.52 
5.51 



4.00 
3.98 
4.05 
3.94 
2.73 
8.87 
2.75 
3.01 
4.53 



Picks to 
Inch. 



44x44 
56x60 



52x48 

44x48 
80x64 



72x84 
60x60 
60x60 
52x48 



52x56 
52x56 
48x48 
48x48 
48x48 
52x.^2 
56x56 



3.25 
4.00 
2.83 
2.12 
2.57 
3.42 


40x48 

44x50 
46x50 
44x50 
48x48 


5"i6 
8.02 
3.92 


44x44 

48x48 


3".76 


48x48 


3. '59 


... 


3!03 


48x48 


4.42 


56x66 



179 



Brown Sheetings and bhirtings - Continued. 



Name. 
Laconia 



B. 



Width. 

Inches. 

36 

7-4 

8-4 

9-4 

10-4 

11-4 

36 

36 



Lake George, AA 

AA 

Lanark, A 36 

B 30 

C 27 

Lancaster 10-4 

Langdon Fine, '76 36 

GB 36 

Langley, A 36 

A 30 

. 27 

Lane 36 

•* 30 

Laurel Dale 36 

Lawrence, LL 36 

Lake George, A... 36 

AA 



Lenox Mills, H. 
Lehigh, E .... 

Level Best 

Live Oak, 0. . . 

S. . . 

Lock wood, A. 

B. 

R. 

C, 

D 
« p 

" e! 



35^ 

36 

36 

36 

86 

40 

36 

36 

30 

28 

30 

36 

42 
5-4 
6-4 



Lockwood 7-4 

8-4 

9-4 

10-4 

11-4 



Lonsdale 36 

Lowell 10-4 

Log Cabin 4-4 

Louise 35% 

" 40 

Lyman, A 45 

B 40 

C 36 

Macon, A 36 

Mathews 36 

Mass. Fine, BB 36 

J 29 

" C 28 

Staiid'd." .".'.'.'..* 36 

P 30 

Magnet • xtra heavy 4-4 

Marlboro 7-4 



Yards to 
Pound. 

2.38 
2.12 
1.80 
1.65 
1.48 

3 15 
4.38 

4 27 
5.27 

1-98 
3.74 
3.50 
3.00 
3.90 
4.60 

4.72 

3.90 



3.91 
9.00 



3.60 
3.88 
3.75 
4.35 
7.20 
6.59 

3. '04 

2.32 
2.11 
1.75 
1 56 
1 41 



2.13 

3!54 

2' 35 
2.56 

2^87 

4.00 
4.03 
4 44 
2 90 

2 '07 



Picks to 
Inch, 

64x64 
64x64 
64x64 
64x64 
64x64 
48x44 
56x6U 
44x44 
44x48 
44X44 
60x60 
72x80 

44x44 
44x44 
44x44 



56x56 



3e*s36 



68x76 
68x68 
68x72 
68x76 
64x63 
64x64 

64x72 

68x72 
64x68 
64x72 
64x72 
64x72 
68x68 
76x88 
56x60 



76x88 
48i48 
48x54 

48x48 

60x60 
48x48 
41x40 
48x48 
48x48 

72x64 



180 



Brown Sheetings and Shirtings — Continued. 



Name. 
Marlboro 



Maginnis, EE 

Master Workman, D. 

Mechanics, AA 

C 

Milton, R 

Middlesex, A 

Michigan, LL 

Mohawk Valley Mills . 



Monticello.XXX. 
Monadnock 



Monhansett Mfg. Co. 

Mystic River 

Nabob Royal 

C 

Nashua, E, Fine..... 

R 

»' F 

•' o".V.V.'.'.'.'.'. 
p 

w 

Nantuck Sheeting . . 

Nashvill*^, A A. 

Natchez, A 

2.'.'.'.*.'.'.".".V 

1 

G 

H.... 



S. 



Neponset 

New Hartford, AA. 

Newburg 

C 

Newberry Mills, A , 

Newport, A 

D 

Newmarket, B ... 
G... 
N .. 
DD.. 
X.... 
K 
« KK 

New York Mills...'. 



9-4.. 
10-4. 



Width. 
Jnch.es. 
9-4 
9-4 
36 

36y, 

36 

27 

SO 

36 

36 

45 
7-4 

38 

8-4 

9-4 

10-4 

11-4 

31 

29% 

8-4 

9-4 

10-4 

11-4 

36 

36 

36 

40 

27 

40 

36 

42 

33 

45 

48 
10-4 

36 

36 

36 

35^ 

30 

30 

36 

30 

36 

36 

36 

31 
. 36 

36 

36 

36% 

36 

36 

36 

36 

31 

29 

48 

57 

78 

86 



Yards to 
Pound. 

1.45 

4.00 

3.38 

12.23 



4.00 

2" 66 
2.14 
1,98 
1.70 
1.53 
1.86 

3! 92 
2.55 
1.92 
1.82 
1.70 
5.29 

5! 59 



3 70 

3 53 
2.95 
3.80 
2.74 
2.56 
2.19 

3.35 
4.15 
2.52 
4.20 
5.00 

4! 40 
5.50 

4 60 
4.19 

2.87 
4.44 
4.47 

4.77 
3.90 
4.00 
4.58 

5.86 

2.30 
1.83 
1.35 
1.25 



Picks to 
Inch. 
68x72 
72x72 



32x28 



68x68 
64x66 
64x64 
64x64 
64x64 
64x64 
56x56 
50x38 
64x60 
64x60 
64x60 
64s60 
48x52 
72x64 
48x52 



68x68 
64x63 
68x68 

72x72 
68x68 
68x68 
68x56 

4Sx48 
40x44 
60x60 
48x48 
40x44 

60x64 
52x52 
44x44 
56x60 

48x48 

52x56 

48x52 
56x60 
64^64 
52x60 

64x68 

64x64 
66x60 
64x68 
64x68 



181 



Brown Sheetings and Shirtings— Continued. 



Name. 
New York Mills, 11-4. 



Width. 

Inches. 

98 

12-4 106 

Niobe, E 36 

Nonpareil 36 

Oeia.XX 28 

Old Dominion. AA 36 

Oriental Bunting, A 36 

36 

Osceola, LL 36 

B 27 

Fine 36 

Ostrich 36 

Ozark, AA 36 

Pacifle, Extra 36 

" H 36 

•' 54 

*• 7-4 

•' 8-4 

Pacolet Mfgr. Co 36 

Pacolet, LL 36 

Palatka Bunting S5% 

Park, A 33 

" BB 30 

Pedro, B 32 

Pelzer, 3-4 

" B 4-4 

" A 4-4 

** Standard 4-4 

Pembroke 45 

6-4 

7-4 

8-4 

9-4 

Pembrooke 10-4 

11-4 

12-4 

Peerless 27 

K 30 

Pepperell, E 40 

'* R 36 

" 83 

•• N 30 

45 

48 

" (extra N, 9 twills) 48 

7-4 

8-4 

9-4 

10-4 

11-4 

*' 12-4 

Pequa 10-4 



Pequot, A. 
B . 

W. 



36 

40 

45 

48 

6-4 

7-4 

8-4 

9-4 



Yards to 
Pound. 
1.13 
1.00 
4.52 
5.88 



10.28 
10.42 



2.85 



Picks to 
Inch. 
64x68 
64^68 
52x56 
52x52 
40x40 

36x32 



2.79 


48x52 


2 85 


48^48 


8.13 


56x56 


4.33 


68x68 


1.87 


68x72 


1.63 


64x72 


4.07 


56x60 


4.00 


. 


8.73 


56x64 


4.32 


44x50 


.... 


44x40 



48x48 





60x68 


2.15 


60x68 


1.85 


60x68 


1.63 


60x68 


1.52 


60x68 


3' 44 


66x68 


3.70 


64x64 


4.00 


64x64 


4.39 


64x64 


2.90 


64x64 




64x64 


2 '.36 


64x64 


2.10 


64x64 


1.79 


64x64 


1.63 


64x64 


1.47 


64x64 


1.00 


64x64 


1.51 


64x64 


3.17 


68x64 


2.80 


64x64 


2 59 


72x76 


2.34 


68x76 


2.18 


72x76 


2.07 


72x76 


1.71 


72x76 


1.45 


72x76 



182 

Brown Sheetings and Shirtings 

Warnp Width, 

^^^'^^- Inches. 

Pequjt 10-4 

" 11-4 

Pequot E dorado 36 

Perkins, X 30 

Y 33 

Z 36 

Phoenix, AA 39 

Piedmont 36 

30 

27 

Pioneer, XX 28 

Piymouth, H 29% 

Pocahontas, B 36 

E 40 

D 30 

Pocasset Canoe, E 40 

Pocasset, C 36 

33 

Portsmouth, P 28 

B 31 

36 

Prescott, L 36 

Pride of the Nation 36 

Preston 36 

Prarie Bunting, A 36 

Princeton, 401. 36 

Princess 36 

40 

Queen 36 

KandolphAA 36 

Rexford Stand'd, A A 36 

Richmond Co. Mills DB... 36 

Riverside Mills XX 36 

Rockingham A 36 

Rosalie F 36 

Royal Standard 36 

Royal Standard 35 

Rye Rock A 36 

Sa'isburyE 39 

R 36 

33 

N 30 

Saracen 36 

SaranacA 36 

E 40 

R 36 

O 30 

Salisbury R 36 

Scotia Mills O. M 36>^ 

Sea Foam 36 

S^a Shore Sheetings 21% 

Shawmut LL 36 

XX 36 

Shamrock 36 

Sherman 30 

Sherman, LL 86 

Sibley B 40 

•* F 40 

Silver Lake 36 

Snow Flake 36 



Continued. 




Yards to 

Pow'd. 

1.33 


Picks to 
Inch 
72x76 
68x76 


4. 67 
4.31 

3.90 
3.50 
3.09 

4! 62 


60x60 
64X64 
64x64 
64x64 

48x48 
38x44 
48x44 


4'96 
3 90 
3.65 


80x72 
80x72 


3!i6 
3.63 

7. '66 

9.41 


64x64 
64x64 
64x64 
64x64 

48x48 


4!56 
3.85 


64x64 

84x84 


3 93 


44x36 
56x60 


2'. 76 
4.69 
5.36 


48x44 
48x52 
52x48 


2" 96 
2.90 
3.60 


48x48 
52x52 
48x48 


3'. 40 
3.72 
4.05 
4.40 
4.38 
4.83 
3.08 
3.45 


64x64 
64x64 
64x64 
64x64 
54x60 
52x52 
68x68 
64x68 


4. '74 


48i48 


2.73 
4.00 
3.21 


40x32 
52x52 
64x64 


5. 09 


46x40 


2!56 





183 

Brown Sheetings and Shirtings 

v>,*«z, Width. 

^^^^ Inches. 

Springfield B 36 

Square 36 

Sc. Lawrence 36 

Statue of Liberty 36 

Stark AA 36 

Sterling AA 36 

Stanley Mills 30 

Superior W. E 36 

Superior W. E 36 

Superior Sea Island 36 

Sua Tissues W 37 

Swift Creek 36 

Tallahassee AA 36 

A 30 

Tennessee Premium 36 

Tennis 36 

Terrace City K 36 

The Square Shirting 36 

The Derby 36 

Tit for Tat Al 36 

Trenton Steam Mills 28 

TremontO 36 

CC 36 

Tuckahoe Superior 36 

Universal 36 

UtieaC 36 

Utioa Cotton Co 36 

UticaMfffOo 36 

Utica Steam Mills 39)^ 

Nonp'l. 40 
« <( <( 48 

" " •• 58 

«< «« •» Q_4 

u .i .i jO-4 

" « «• " 11_4 

" «. « 12-4 

Veil 36 

Verona 36 

Virginia Family 36 

Vineland 36 

Victoria R 36 

AA ?6 

E 40 

LL 36 

Volunteer L 36 

B 32 

C 28^ 

D. 28 

WachusettA 36 

B 30 

40 

48 

Warren AA 40 

Wamsutta 36 

" 0,XX. 40 

59 

72 

79 

89 

99 



Continued. 



Yird8 to 
Pound. 



96 

85 



4.83 
4.79 
4.86 
4.76 
9.00 



Picks to 
Inch, 



60x68 
18x48 

56x56 

48x54 
48x52 
56x56 



4.14 


56x60 


4*00 


48x52 




48x44 


5.45 


48x44 


5 44 


48x44 


3.14 


68x84 


2.94 


92x96 


2.23 


68x72 


1.91 


64x64 


1 37 


64x68 


1.31 


68x68 


1.14 


68x68 


.98 


64x68 


8.77 


88x84 


3' 68 


64x64 


3.95 


52x52 




64s 64 


3.92 


52x56 


5.42 


.... 


5.98 




8.18 




6.93 




2.85 


48x48 


3.42 


48x48 


2.57 


48x52 


2.12 


48x52 


1.80 


72x76 


1.45 


72x76 


1 30 


72x76 


1.16 


72x76 


1 05 


72x76 



184 

Brown Sheetings and Shirtings- 

^''™- lit,. 

WamButta 108 

Washington, A 86 

Wasuc 36 

Waterville 36% 

Washaucum, A 36 

Whtfield 36 

Fine 40 

Windsor, H 36 

Winthrop, L 36 

48 

WilllamsvilleSealsl- 

and 36 

Wolcott, A 36 

Yard Stick 36 

Yoeemite 40 



-Continued. 




Yards to 
Pound. 
.96 
3.59 


Picks to 
Inch. 
72x76 
52x60 


6.16 


64x68 


3.66 
5.34 


56x60 
52x48 


S.90 


80x80 


3.52 


60x60 



185 



BLEACHED SHEETINGS AND SHIETINGS. 



Name. 



Width. 
Inches. 

ABO 36 

Alleghany 36 

Allendale 42 

45 

6-4 

7-4 

8-4 

9-4 

10-4 

11-4 

Alex 36 

Alexandria 36 



.? 42 

46 

Alpine Jacque 36 

Alpine Rose (Batiste) 36 

(twilled) 36 

Alpine Twill 36 

AltoonaH 27 

Amesbury C 32 

Amory 36 

Anchor 32 

Androscoggin AA. ... 36 

L : .. . 36 

L 26 

42 

46 

6-4 

7-4 

8-4 

9-4 



10-4 

Art Cambric 36 

Ashbyrne 36 

Atlantic 42 

, 5-4 

" 6-4 

" 7-4 

" 8-4 

" 9-4 

" 10-4 

" 11-4 

36 

36 

36 

36 

36 



Aurora 

** Cambric 

Ballardvale 

Btrker 

Barker , 

Bay Mills 36 

BB fine muslin cambric. . . 36 

Beaver Falls Mills 26 

Bell Brand 36 

Berkley cambric 36 

Berkley cambric 36 

Berkeley, No, 60 36 

No. 150 36 

No. 180 36 

" Madapolam 36 

Berkshire X 36 

RHR 86 

" Hiawatha 36 



Yards to 
Pound. 



2.65 
2.35 

2.08 

1.87 



63 
50 



3.73 
3!23 



50 
69 



8.70 



Picks to 
Inch. 



64x60 

64x60 
64x60 
64x60 
64x60 
64x60 

80x80 
72x72 
72x72 

104x96 
84x96 



88x88 



3.98 


88x88 


4.17 


80x76 


3 65 


80x7tj 


3.64 


72x64 


3.37 


72x64 


2.57 


72x64 


2.20 


72x64 


1.92 


72x64 


1.71 


72x64 


1.54 


72x64 




100x98 


* • • ■ 


84x88 



3.80 


88x84 




100x100 


5.00 


64x64 


4 25 


80x80 


4.27 


80x76 


3 91 


88x84 


5.90 


100x80 


7 86 


64x60 


5'. 27 


120x168 


5.28 


112x112 


5.58 


88x84 


5.27 


120x108 


7.32 


120x128 


4.40 


108x100 


4.50 


80x80 




72x72 


5.38 


56x60 



186 



Bleached Sheetings and Shirtings— Continued. 



Name. 
Berkshire Lily 



Best Yet 



Width. 

Inches. 

33 

Peacock 31 

Bugle 31 

Wire Twist... . 33 

AX 36 

XIX 3 4 

X 3-4 

36 

" 32 

Big Bonanza 30 

t < { t no 

Big Drive 36 

Big Injun 27 

Blackburn AA 86 

Blackstone Mfg. Co. A A . . . 36 
•' "... 36 

BoottK 28 

" E 36 

Boston 5-4 

" 42 

'* , 45 

" 50 

' 6-4 

•• = 7-4 

" 8-4 

" 9-4 

10-4 
26 

28^ 
36 
36 



5ard 



Bound-to- Win Buntin, 
Trump ' 

Branch Elver 

Bric-a-Brac 

Broadway . 36 

B Shlrtmaker's Finish 36 

Burleigh Long Cloth 36 

" «' 36 

Cabot 36 

36 

31 

9-8 

42 

46 

Canoe River 27 

Capitol 36 

Cascade O 36 

Casco 46 

Cast Iron 36 

Chain Lightning 27 

Champion 36 

Chapman X 36 

Chariot 36 

Charter Oak 36 

Chesterfield 36 



Chestnut Hill. 

Clinton Al 

Clover Dell 

Cock- of-the- Walk 

Commonwealth O 



Conestoga Steam Mills. 



36 
24 
36 
27 
36 
3-4 
10-4 
90 



Yards to 

Pound. 

5.75 

6.20 

6.20 



5.18 



4.80 
4.45 
4.67 
5.93 
4.34 
2.37 
2.09 
2.75 
2.52 
2.33 
1.97 
1.72 
1.52 
1 41 
9.89 
5.70 



4.63 
4.68 
4.65 
4.58 
5.68 

4" 25 
3.92 

7.70 



3.81 



Picks 
Inch. 
72x68 
60x6) 
60x60 



64x64 
56x60 



64x60 



68x52 
76x76 
76x76 
68x60 
64X64 
76x68 
76x64 
72x60 
76x68 
76x68 
76x68 
76x64 
76x64 
76x72 
60x46 
64x48 



108x92 
92x88 
80x76 
76x76 

80x76 

80x76 
80x76 
60x56 



80x76 



5.50 
4.31 


60x56 
72x64 


4-.' 80 


64x64 


5*26 
4.30 


64x60 
84x80 


8. '66 
1.11 


56x52 
60x48 
60x48 



187 



Bleached Sheetings and Shirtings — Oontinued. 



Name. 


Width. 


Yards to 


Picks t» 


Inches. 


Pound. 


Inch 


CoBgress 


36 






Conquest 


36 






Continental Mills 


36 


3.02 


70x60 


H 


48 


2.62 


64x68 


LN 


36 


4.00 


88x88 


A 


36 


4.20 


84X84 


half bleached. 


36 




68x72 


Conway W 


36 






Cooley Homestead 


36 






Copper Fastened 


35% 


4.38 


60x55 


Coral Eeef A 


32 
30 







B 




Cream-of-the-Mill 


36 
36 


••••■ 




Crusader 




Cumberland 


36 




80x84 


Dauntless 


36 


5.85 


60x60 


DavolMlll 


36 
36 


3.75 
3.90 


84x88 


Defiance 


84x88 


(t 


36 
. 36 
36 
86 
36 


3.90 
3.14 

7". 05 


88x84 


De Soto Mills E 


52x48 


Dexter XX 




Diamond Field 




Diamond Hill Cambric. . . 


88x80 


Dorchester 


36 






Duneilen Mills 


36 
36 
36 


3.48 




Dunham OCO 




D wight Anchor Co 


76x76 


" Cambric . 


. 36 






(( 


42 

45 

. 36 


4.66 




«« 




Dyerville A 


80x76 


East Hampton 


36 






Edwards AA 


36 
. 30 


5". 86 




Edward Harris 


72x72 


Eikwoods 


. 36 






Ellerton WS 


36 
. 36 


4.50 


72x72 


EMC 




Exc^iaior 


. 27 






Exeter 


. 36 


4.20 


72x68 


CI 


. 30 
. 36 

. 36% 


5.00 
4! 66 


72x6& 


P-PP Cambric 


88x76 




88x!$0 


PairmountQ 


. 36 


5.00 


64x64 


Parmer's Choice 


. 36 


5.00 


64x64 


Farwell Mills 


. 36 
. 42 
. 45 
. 36 


4.38 
3.72 
3.48 


80x80 


(< 


80x80 


({ 


80x80 


Favorite 




Fearless-of-all-Competit'n 


36 


4.45 


72x72 


Fidelity 


. 36 


4 30 


84x80 


Field and factory. 


4-4 






First Bale 


. 36 
. 36 
. 32 
. 22 
7-8 
. 3-4 


5.54 
4.80 


68x64r 


First Call 


68x64 


tc 




i< 




il 




« 




Fitchville 


. 36 


4.60 


72x72 


Flower-of-the-Mlll 


36 






Forget-me-not 


36 







188 
Bleached Sheetings and Shirtings 

Name Width, 

^^""^^- Indies. 

Forrestdale 36 

Forrest Mills 36 

36 

31 

7-8 

Fruit of the Loom 36 

31 

Night Robe 36 

" Cambric... 36 

(100s) 36 

31 

42 

- " 50 

5-4 

6-4 

7-4 

(extra) 8-4 

9-4 

10-4 

10-4 

Full Value 36 

Full Yard Wide 36 

Gem of the Spindle 36 

George Washington XX ... 36 

Gibraltar 36 

Gilded Age 36 

Gilt Edge 36 

Gladstone 36 

Glad Tidings 36 

Glen Alpine 36 

Glendale 36 

Globe AAA 36 

" AA 36 

Glory 36 

Golden Wedding 36 

Gold Medal 36 

32M 

Great Falls Mfg. Co. J. . . . . 39% 
S Tiger 31 
M.Dog. 33 

Great Republic 36 

Greene G 36 

GrlnnelltiDe 9-8 

5-4 

6-4 

7-4 

8-4 

9-4 

10-4 

11-4 

Grosvenor Dale 35 

Gypsy Queen 3-4 

Happy Hit 36 

Hartford 86 

Harvest E 36 

Hercules 36 

Hero 36 

Highland Mills 36 

Hillsdale Mfg.. Co 36 

Hill's Semper Idem 36 



-Continued. 



Yards to Picks to 



m 



Pound. 


Inch. 


4 25 


80x76 


5 00 


72x68 


4.77 


70x68 


5.80 


62x68 


4.10 


88x84 


4 10 


S8x84 


4 32 


88x80 


3.72 


100x100 


4 32 


83x80 


3.64 


88x80 


2.96 


88x72 


3.07 


88x80 


2.78 


88x76 


1.98 


80x60 


1-69 


80x64 


1.49 


80x60 


1.12 


80x60 


1.43 


72x64 




80x76 


3.62 


76x72 



1.63 



4 36 


76x72 


5.46 


72x64 


4.27 


64x68 


5.18 


72x68 


4.72 


76x72 


4.20 


80x80 


5.00 


. 64x64 


3 47 


104x96 


3.21 


100x100 


2.69 


104x92 


2.58 


104x92 


2.04 


104x92 



104x92 



4.60 


72x72 


8.70 


76x68 


5.00 


68x68 


4 24 


80x80 



189 



Bleached SBeetings and Shirtings — Continued. 



Hill 



ITaine. 
6 Semper Idem 



(MDl'd) 



HEP Fine Cambric 

TT rri -r> 

H. W. G * Shrunk " Finish .' ,' 
Holly Tree Long Cloth. . . 

" Cambric 

Holm(}sville Night Gown. 

B 

H&E 

H&E 

WT 

XXX 

Homespun 

Homestead Mills 

" Cooley's 

" Cambric 

Hope 

Housekeeper 

Housewife 

Howe 

Hubbard 

Ideal Q 

Indian H ad Shrunk 



Industry 

Invincible 

Iron Pier 

Jack Horner 

Jaeque Bose Com. Cambric. 

Jacque Eose, Cambric 

J. C. Knight, Cambric 

JewetL City Mills 

John Hancock 

Jumping Horse 

Just Out 

Kennebec Eivtr XX 

BB 

King Bee Cambric 



King Philip AP 

OP... 

" Cambric . . 

KMQ 

King's Shrunk Finest. 
Knight's Cambric 



Laconia Mills. 



Good-Night Cambric. 



Width. 
Inches. 
. 36 
. 36 
. ^2 
. 7-8 
36 
45 

36 
96 
42 
;6 
36 
36 
36 
31 
33 
36 
36 
36 
36 
36 
36 
36 
36 
36 
36 
36 
35 
45 
36 
36 
86 
30 
36 
36 
33 
48 
36 
36 
27 
36 
36 
36 
33 
36 
36 
36 
36 
• 36 
36 
33 
42 
46 
6-4 
7-4 
8-4 
9-4 
10-4 
11-4 
36 



Tai-ds to 

Pound. 

4.26 

4.36 

3.76 



3.44 

5.75 



5 16 

4.85" 

6.00 

5.75 

4.50 

4.15 



4.80 

4!65 
5.39 



5.73 

5.40 
5.40 
4.80 
3.65 

4!75 
6.15 



3.80 
3.67 
5.75 



7.00 

2. '70 
2 35 

2!69 
1.89 
1.65 

2.63 



Picki^ to 

Inch. 

84x76 

84x80 

84x84: 



84x84 
84x72 



64J.64: 
72x68 
68x64 
68x64 
72x68 
76x76 



76x72 



76x72 

60x40 

48x48 

56x56 



64x64 

84x84 
84x84 

76x84 

68x64 
64x60 



84x84 

88x84 

96x104 



84x80 

64£64 
64x64 
64x64 
64x64 
64x64 
64x64 

96x80 



190 

Bleached Sheetings and thirtings 

T,r Width. 

Name. Inches. 

Iiafayette 36 

Lancaster 10-4 

Landseer. 36 

Ijangdon GB 36 

" "76" 36 

«« 42 

" 45 

Langham Cambric 33 

Lexington 36 

lilly ot the VaUey, h'f bl'd . 36 

Xiinwood 36 

Lion 36 

Little Chief Cottons 36 

Loch Lamond Cambrics.. . 36 

Loekwood VVV 36 

•' " 42 

«• '« ' 42 

'* !!!!!!..!!! 45 

•• 45 

•« " 50 

" 5-4 

" 6-4 

«« «« 7_4 

" '.'.'.\'.'.'.'.'.'.'. 8-4 

" 9-4 

" 10-4 

" 11-4 

Lonsdale 36 

32 . 

Cambric . 36 

Nameless Star. . . 363^ 

Lowell 10-4 

Lucky Hit Cambric 36 

Maconpin Mills 36 

Madapolam Cambrics 36 

M gic 32 

♦' 26 

Magnolia 36 

Masonvill 36 

« 36 

Medal 36 

MelroseMill 36 

Millview 36 

Milton Falls 36 

Mohawk 7-8 

Mohawk Valley Mills 42 

.... 5-4 

.... 6-4 

.... 7-4 

.... 8-4 

" .... 9-4 

•* " .... 9-4 

" .... 10-4 

" .... 11-4 

Monadnock 8-4 

9-4 

10-4 

" 12-4 

Monohansett h'f b'ld 36 

M'f g Co. . . . 36% 



Continued. 



Yards to 


Picks to 


Pound. 


Inch. 


5.00 


64x64 


1.90 


64x5£ 


4.10 


80x80 


3.86 


92x84 


3.80 


88x84 





88x80 


4^25 


76x68 


4.30 


84x80 


4.71 


80x64 


5.26 


76x68 


3 75 


88x84 


3.12 


72x64 


3 12 


08x64 


2.99 


68x60 


3.01 


68x60 


2.57 


68x64 


1*89 


68x64. 


1.67 


68X^4 


1.45 


72x64 


4 3i 


84x80 


4.70 


84x84 




104x96 


4.37 


80x72 


4.40 


108xl"cb 


8 '39 


52x40 


4." 02 


88x84 


3.98 


88x84 


390 


84x88 


5.06 


64x64 


2.22 


72x60 


2.91 


64x64 


2.56 


64^64 


2.21 


72x60 


1.86 


72x60 


1.76 


68x60 


1.69 


68xeO 


1.52 


72x60 


1.36 


64x64 


2.11 


6Sx52 


1 88 


68x52 


1.69 


68x52 


1.10 


68x52 


4 46 


72x64 




72x68 



191 



Bleached Sheetings and Shirtings — Continued. 



Name 



Width. 

Inches. 

Monogram 36 

Mont Clare 36 

Morning Star 36 

Nashua E 36 



P. 
W. 



Naumk€ag rwill.. 



42 
5-4 
0-4 

10-4 
8-4 
9-4 

10-4 



Needle Cotton. 36 

Netherwood 36 

New Candidate 35% 

New Bedford Sheetings... . 9-8 

.... 5-4 
.... 48 
.... 50 

.... 6-4 

.... 7-4 

.... 8-4 

" .... 9-4 



" Cambric 

'* Night robe. 

New Jersey 

Newmarket 

New iTork Mills, Extra 

Water Twist... 
Twilled Jeans. 



N 



Dicker. 



100. 



Nonpareil . 
Odk Grove. 



Oakland.. . . 
Oak Lawn. 



O Shlrtmaker's Finish 

Our Choice , 

Our Own 

Oar Pride 

Our Reliance 

Paragon 

Peabody Mills H 

" Mill View. 

Pedro 

Peerless 

PelhamQ 



Pembroke. 



10-4 
11-4 

36 

36 

36 

36 

36 

36 

5-4 

6-4 

8-4 

9-4 

10-4 

10-4 

11-4 

36 

31>< 

36 " 

32 

27 

36 

36 

32 

36 

36 

30 

36 
36 
36 
36 
32 
27 
36 
36 
36 
42 
45 



Yords to 
Pound. 



3.50 
3 11 
3.02 



Picks to 
Inch. 



76x68 
76x68 
76x68 



1.60 
1.43 

1.28 



30 
72 



89 
60 



.73 
4.55 

4.87 



2 61 



06 
50 
23 

20 
20 



1.00 
4.75 

5 '.77 



5.17 



4 50 
5.73 

5.60 
4.40 
4.74 



4.70 
4.70 
4.70 



76x80 
80x76 



92x84 

88x84 



76x68 

68x64 

96x96 

92x104 

68x56 
68x56 
72x56 
72x60 
60x48 
72x68 
68a64 

72x68 

68x60 



72x64 



76x72 
64x64 

60x56 
72x68 
60x52 



68x60 
68x64 
64x64 



192 

Bleached Sheetings and Shirtings— Continued. 

WamP Width. 

Pembroke 6-4 

7-4 

7-4 

8-4 

9-4 

;.. 10-4 

11-4 

; 12-4 

People's Cry, (The) 36 

Pepperell E 40 

R , 36 

33 

N 30 

45 

48 

7-4 

8-4 

8-4 

9-4 

9-4 

10-4 

11-4 

12-4 

•' Mfg.Co.,Ex-HG Tw'ls 36 

Pequa 10-4 

Pequot A, Heavy 36 

•• B 40 

45 

W 48 

6-4 

6-4 

7-4 

7-4 

8-4 

8-4 

9-4 

9-4 

10-4 

11-4 

Eldorado 36 

PerkinsZ 36 

Y 33 

" X 30 

Phoenix AA 39 

Piedmont 36 

; 30 

27 

Pocahontas R 36 

E 40 

D 30 

Pocasset Canoe E 40 

Pocasset C 36 

33 

Portsmouth 36 

B 31 

P 28 

Prescott L 36 

Pride-of-the-Nation 36 

Preston 36 

Princeton 401 36 S 93 



Yards o 


Picks to 


Pound. 


Inch. 


2.65 


64x64 


2 40 


64i64r 




60x68 


2 i5 


60x68 


1.85 


60x68 


1.63 


60x68 


1.52 


60x68 


. • « • 


72x56 


3 44 


66x68 


3.70 


64x64: 


4.00 


64x64 


4.39 


64x64: 


2.90 


64x64 




64x64 


2.36 


64x64 


2.10 


64x64 


1.95 


68x64 


1 79 


64x64 


1.73 


72x60 


1 63 


64x64 


1.47 


64x64 


1.00 


64x64 


3.26 


100x60 


1.51 


64x64 


3.20 


68x64 


2.80 


64x64 


2.59 


72x76 


2 34 


68x76 


2.18 


72x76 


2.29 


72x68 


2.07 


72x76 


1.89 


72x64 


1.71 


72x76 


1.68 


72x72 


1.45 


72x76 


1.49 


72x72 


1.33 


72x76 




68x76 


3!96 


64x64 


4 31 


64x64 


4 67 


60x60 


3.50 


64x64 


3.09 


48x48 




48x44 


4 62 


48x44 


3.90 


80x72 


3,10 


64x64 


310 


64x64 


3.63 


64x64 




64x64 


9!4i 


48x48 


7.00 


64x64 


4.50 


64x64 


3 85 


84x84 



56x60 



193 

Bleached Sheetings and Shirtings— Continued, 

Name. 

Qainnebaug Co 

Rochdale (h'f bl'd) 

Rosalind (As You Like It). 

(( »( tc 

Second to None , 



Security 

Senate Mills (h'f bl'd) 

Sentinel , 

Silver Queen 

AA 

Shamrock. , 

Sibley 

Signal A 

" B..... 

Snow White 

Sonora 

Social C 

" g::::-;.;:::.-.::::::: 

" W 

Standard 

Standish 

Star ot the Nation 

StarW 

State-of -Maine 

Statute , 

Sterling 

Sun 

Sunlight 

Superior American 

" Boyal Bunting. . 

Telegraph 

Ten Strike 

The "Cooley Homestead". 

The Sun Cotton 

The Victor 

The Pennant 

Thorndale Cambric 

Top-of-the Heap 



Trump Card. 



True-as-Steel. . . 

Triumph 

Tuscarora Mills 



Night Robe 

Universal 

Dtica Cotton Steam Mills, 

'• Ex. Heavy.. 

" Nonpareil . . 

" Ex. Heavy. . 



Width. 


Yards to 


Picks to 


Inches. 


Pound. 


Inch. 


36 


4.70 


80x72 


36 


4.94 


68x68 


36 




76x76 


36 


4.32 


80x76 


36 


5.32 


68x60 


7-8 






27 






30 


6.20 


60x56 


36 


4.18 


68x72 


27 






36 






36 






36 






36 






32 


5.66 


64x64 


27 


6.12 


64x64 


36 






36 






32 






36 


4.75 


80x76 


36 


5.10 


72x72 


36 


5.97 


68x64 


36 


4.15 


88x84 


36 


4.35 


80x76 


36 






36 


5.30 


64x64 


36 






36 






32 






36 


3.59 


80x68 


27 




56x60 


36 




76x80 


36 


8.97 


44x40 


30 


6 00 


60x52 


36 


4.50 


72x68 


36 








36 








36 








4-4 








36 








36 








32 








36 








7-8 








27 








36 








36 


5.68 


68x60 


36 


3.28 


80x68 


36 


3.28 


80x60 


36 






36 


3.65 


80x76 


3C 


3.00 


68x64 


86 


3 30 


92x96 


36 


3.55 


96x80 


5-4 


2.72 


68x60 


6-4 


2.17 


68x56 


7-4 






8-4 


1.81 


68x60 


8-4 


1.68 


72x 


72 



194 

Bleached Sheetings and Shirtings - Continued. 

j^ame Width. Yards to Picks to 

^^,. „ ,, ' Inches. Found. Inch. 

Utica Cotton Steam Mills. 8-4 1.61 72x60 

9-4 1 35 68x64 

10-4 1.31 68x60 

10-4 1.68 72x60 

100 1.14 68x60 

" Diamond U. 36 3.47 72x72 

Valley Mills 27 

Q 85% 7.89 60x61 

Q 25 6.80 52x44 

Victor 36 

Vineyard 36 

Waltnam XX (h'f bl'd) 36 3 48 72x60 

Wamsutta Mills O-XX. ... 36 3.50 92x92 

" 42 

" ST 45 2.b3 72x64 

" 50 2.28 88x88 

" 60 3.35 

" Cambric 36 .... 68x56 

" Cambric, fine.... 36 6.15 100x96 

" 9-8 3.47 88x88 

" 5-4 3.09 72x72 

" ST 6-4 1.98 72x72 

♦• 7-4 2.06 72x64 

" Twilled 8-4 1.44 72x68 

" 9-4 1.33 

" 9-4 1.33 72x72 

" Twilled 10-4 1.17 

" ST 10-4 1.17 72x68 

" 11^ 1.03 72x64 

" ^ 12-4 

" Ex. Heavy Jean,! 86 4 82 68xe4 

" Gold Medal 36 4.82 68x64 

" •• NB.. 36 3.36 63x56 

" Nift:tlt Bobes.... 36 4 82 68x64 

" " d'blewarp 35^ 2 82 80x60 

Warren Mfg. Co. linen fin.. 36 ... . .. 

Washington 86 5.00 64x64 

Wessacumcon B 36 

" D 36 4.33 

Water Witch 36 

" " 80 .... .... 

Wauregan lOO's 36 .... lOOslOO 

ISO. 1 36 8.90 88x88 

" Cambric 36 .... 108x94 

White Horse 36 5.00 64x64 

White Eock 36 4.10 88x80 

Whiting 36 

Whitinsvilie Cotton Mills. 36 4 50 80x76 

" '• . 36 • 4.58 • 80x76 

Williamsville Al 36 3.60 88x64 

Winchester 36 

Winona 36 8.60 88x84 

WinthropAA 36 

" E 42 3.62 60x68 

" 45 2 75 64x68 

Woodbury 36 5 30 64x64 

World Wile 86 

Worth 36 4.80 72i60 

Note. — Four ounces to the yard is equal to four 3-ar(ls to the pound 
avoirdupois: and five ounces to the yai-d is equarto 3.20 yards to the 
pound avoirdupois. 



195 

Addenda to BleacLed Sheetings and. Shirtings^ 
Name. Width. 

Beaver Falls Mills XXX... 26 

Ed^ewood 37 

Ideal Q 36 

Just Out , . 26 

Monohansett, Hf-Bl'oh'd.. 36 

Nameless Star 36% 

Newport Mills 36 

Ked Star Nameless 36 

White Star Nameless 36 

Sunbeam Cottons 36 



Yards 


Picks 


to 


to 


Pound. 


Inch. 


7.85 


64X60 


5.17 


6UX60 


5.39 


60x40 


6.55 


64x60 


4 46 


72X64 


3.37 


80x72 


4.92 


68x60 


4.51 


76x72 


4.94 


76x60 


4.91 


72x64 





196 








TICKINGS. 












Yards 


Picks 


Name. 




Width. 


to 


to 




Jnclies. 


Pound. 


Inch. 


Amoekeagr Mfg Co 


32 


1.96 


52x80 


It ■< 




3.^4 


2 00 






AC a! .' . . 


?6 
31^ 


1 85 
1 94 




It It 


^ 


31% 


2.03 




i > li 


a", .'.v.. 


30%@31 


2.27 




(( <t 


H 


30%Cc531 






£« tl 


B 


36 


2A% 




f( t( 


<;imp'd. 


30@31 


2.60 


56x56 


(( •( 


D 


30@3i 


2 60 




l< (1 


E 


31 


3.07 




" XXX I'ncy 


32 






(1 >( 


XX " 


32 


1.'86 


56x6» 


<> <> 


X " 


3l@32 


2 64 


56x60 


" "Awn'g: satine 


32 


1.97 


56x80 


•■ " Garniture 


32 


2 01 




Belgrade, fancy red 135. . . 


30 


2.76 


76x52 


Berwick Mfg Co. BA, fancy 








colored 




30 


2.84 


84x64 


Brandywine Mills, No. 10. 


31% 


3.08 


44x96 


Birmingham 










Uonestoga Steam Mills .... 


33 


2. '64 




Prem. 


A 


36 


1.99 




" FF .. . 




33 


2 04 




Extra 




36 


2 25 




( •« 




32 
36 


2.50. 
2.30 




Gold Medal'. ■... 


* 


CT.... 




36 


2.42 




CCA. . 




31% 


2.58 




AA.... 




29 


3.40 




fancy red EK. . 


33 


2.04 


32x60 


Cordis, ACE 


... 


32 


2.07 


• • • • 


" No. 1..... 




32 
32 


2.07 
2 23 




" No. 2 






^ " No. 3 




30 


2.48 




" WS., 




29 


4.00 


60x76 


Challenge, fancy 




30 


3.84 


36x84 






3.71 


36x84 


Endurance, fanc> 


r 


32 


2.66 


44x96 


Evei ett, plaid PT 




30 


2.40 




Farmer's 






2 88 


36x80 


Hamilton Mfg Cc 


) 


30% 


2.42 


56x56 


<i 


BT 


30 


2 54 


52x52 


ti 


D 


30 




68x48 


' • 


N 


313^ 


3.48 


64x44 


(6 


B "... 


30% 


2.95 


64x4s 


Horse Hv^ad 




30% 
30 


3 45 
2.92 


72x44 


Jewitt City 




76x40 


Lenox, fancy 




32 


2.16 


64x48 


(i 




32 
30 
30 
30 


3.84 
3.71 
2 93 

2.83 


36x84 


(i 




36x84 


First Prize B. " ] 






C. .. 




52x88 


D... 




30 


2 68 


52x84 


E.... 




30 


2. 90 


48x84 


jean 




27 
30 


4.83 
2 83 


64x36 


0;d Clock Tick C 




76x52 


(I) c. 


. . 


30 


2.98 


72x52 



197 



Tickings, 


- Oontinned 










Yards 


PloliS 


ITame. 


Width. 


to 


to 




Inches. 


Pound. 


Tnch. 


Old Clock Tick (Indigo) C. . 


30 


2.5t 


7^x52 


G.. 


31 y. 


2.08 


72x56 


(Jr.. 


31K 


1.97 




K.. 


28H 


4 67 


60x40 


E.. 


30 


3.58 


72x42 


Omega medal, sup. extra. . 


B6% 


2.38 


72x76 


" superior... 


32 


2.37 


72x76 


fancy ED.. 


31 


2.16 


52x88 


Randolt'h Mills (blut^).... 
Eosemont Mills RLT fancy 


2d% 


3.51 


60x36 


' 3iy. 


3.34 


72x36 


.. XXX " 


32 


3.09 


104x40 


Tiger Mills, No. 1 


33 


2.05 




No.l 


32^ 


1.97 


76x56 


No. 2 


31 




84x60 


No.3 


31 


2. '60 


8ix52 


No. 3 


31 


2.71 


72x52 


XXX twills.. 


33 


2 10 


56x58 


XXXX 


33 


1.70 


72 :76 


" fancy 




2 05 


60x68 


Swift Elver 


30 


3,79 


76x40 


Triumph Mani'g Co., No. £ 


\ 30 


3,01 


36x96 


York AA 


32 
30 


2 15 
2 40 




" T 




■ ~ ' P^ -^ ^<— ~ 

COTTON DEILLS. 










Yards 


Picks 




Width. 


to 


to 


Name. 


Inches. 


Pound. 


Inch. 


"Boott A, standard 


30 


2.85 




" 250 boat-sail 


30 
29y, 


2.50 

2.87 




Olifton K 


76x52 


Darlington Mills 


28% 


2.87 


72x52 


Eureka 


29>i 


2.77 


72x48 


John K. King Mfg. Co. . . , 


30 


2.93 


68x48 


London Mills XX 


30 
> 30 


3.52 

2.85 


64x38 


Massachusetit, stan'd. . .E 




DN 26%-7 


2.98 




DN 27 


3 05 




DN 27 


3.05 




G 29-30 


3 80 




G 


r 29-30 


3 80 




Normandie, standard 


29- 


2.73 


70x52 


ki (• 


29 


2.78 


68x52 


Pacolet Manufacturing Co 


. 29% 


2.87 




Peppereil, brown 


29 


2.84 


72x52 


" bleached' 


. 27 


3 28 


80x48 


" dragon brand. 


11% 


3 36 


80x48 


Plymouth Standard 


my. 


2.89 




300 


29,^4 


2.60 




Prescott, standard blue D 


29-30 


3.25 




Eoyal, standard brown . . 


29 


2.72 


64x68 


250X 


30>^ 


2.49 


68X56 


" bleached 


27>^-8 


3.11 


76x18 


Stark HD, brown stan'd. . 


37 


2.42 


66x52 


" A. Imp'd " 


29%@30 






" A, blpached 


28 




7dx6S 


Suff ilk, standard D ! 


30 


2!85 





198 

COTTON CHLVIOTS. 

Yards 

Name. Width. to 

l^iches. Pound. 

Amoskeag (stripes) 27^ 3.32 

(stripes) 27% 3.55 

Alabama (stripes) 26 4.513^ 

Algeron (plaids) 4.36 

J5engal (strip -s) 273^ 4 . 13 

Crown A (strines & checks) 26 4.89 

" (plaids) 27% 4.16 

Conestoga (stripes) 28 2 . 69 

Falmoutn checks, BB 27 4 52 

Forresn Hill 28 4.18 

Great Republic . . 25% 4. 26 

ladna Mills 26^ 4.84 

Philadelptiia 4.51 

Pioneer Plaids 28 4.36 

Prodigy (stripes). 29% 3.85 

Rosedale 27 5.42 

Slater 27 3.42 

Santa Rosa % . . 27% 4.45 

Real Calpdonia, the JCK 4.30 

Unca^ville 27 '^.37% 

'27 2 37 

► ♦ ^ 

DOMESTIC GII&HAMS. 

Yards 

Name. Width. to 

Inches. Pound. 

Amoskeag Mfg. Co 26% 6 . 28 

Staples 26% 5.56 

" Fancy Staples. 26% 5.56 

Canton 26 6.91 

" Checks ._ 26% 6.34 

Chalon Cloth... 26 7.53 

" • Persian 26% 6.61 

•« Zanzibar -I-... 25>^ 5.58 

Arasapha Mrg. Co 29 6.44 

Bay State 25% 8.34 

Caledonia 26^ 6.68 

El oeron, Seersuckers 25% 6.87% 

Everett Classics 26 5 . 6!j 

Franklin Suitings 26% 6.89 

Glpnarie : 25% 6.37 

G)tham 25% 5.91 

Johnson Mfg. Co • . 26 6 . 53 

Pin Checks 26 6.52 

PlaM Checks 26 5.92 

Loraine Knotted. 29 5 42 

Manchester 27 6.04 

Monogram 26% 6.52 

Nevelle Seersucker.^ 26 — 

Parkhill Mtg. Co. (Toile Du 

Nord) 25% 6,70 

Pontiac Seersuckers 25 7 . 58 

Rindelman 

Reufrew. Dress 26 6.24 

Novelties 5.86 

Tacoma Cloth 25^ 7.27 

Woodboro Mfg. Co 27 7 . 08 

York Mfg. Co, Staples 26 ' 6 . 38 



Picks 

to 
Inch. 



48x33 



36x40 



40x44 



Picks 

to 
Inch. 
72x76 
68x76 
68x76 
56x60 
56x60 
48x72 
48x56 
60x76 
36x40 
36x44 
48x56 
40x56 
52x72 
44x72 
40x48 
44x53 
56x68 
56x64 
64x64 
76x80 
44x52 
48x56 
52x68 

60x72 
40x56 
40x44 
60x60 
52x56 
48x56 
48x56 
52x56 



199 

CAMLETS. 

Yards Picks 

Name. Width. to to . 

Inches. Pound. Inch. 

York CT 28 2.75 

► ♦ ^ 

OOTTOIS BUNTDTa. 

Yards Picks 

Name. Width. to to 

Inches. Ppund. In^h. 

Arehery 36 8.63 38x40 

ICatioaal 1150 34x82 

► ♦ 4 

OOTTON OHEOKS. 

Yards Picks 

Name. Wid h. to to 

Inches- Pound. Inch. 

Otis, i.pron 30 3.21 * 

*Dli!fioult to oount, pieks. 

► ♦ 4 

PLAT-POLD OAMBEIOS. 

Yards PioT<s 

Name. Width. to to 

In«hes. Pound. Inch. 

Ballou* 25 5.03 eSK48 

*Glove fiBish. 

^ — ► ♦ 4 

GLAZED OAMBEIOS. 

Yoi^ds Picks 

Name. Wid4h. to to 

Inches. PounA. Irish. 

Keystone, black linings. . 26 7.05 

► ♦ < 

NANKEENS. 

Ya/rds Picks 

Width. to to 

Name. Inches. Pound. Inch. 

Wachusetts 3.88>^ 44x52 

York Manul'g Co. XXX 3.44 40x66 

► ■♦ 4 

STJITINaS AND SKIETINGS. 

Yards Picks 

Name. Width. to to 

Inches. Pound- Inch. 

York Skirting.... 27 4.84 52x76 

Novelty Suitings 26 .... 60x60 

" 26 .... 64x64 

Sherwood Suitings 26 7.34 52x68 

Fenno Stripes 27 .... 60x68 



200 



BEOWN COTTON PLANNELS. 



Name. Width. 
Inches. 

BUerton HHH 85^ 

WH ■ 35 

H 31 

WN 36 

N 32 

O : 28% 

P 27% 

Q 28 

R ... 28 

S 28 

T 28 

V 27% 

CL 30% 

CM. 28 

ON •- 27 

GlendaleNN 26 

Buokskln EE 36 

GooiLuak4 27% 

5 

6 28 

U 28K 

18 29% 

24 27 

■ " 80 

Maesaehu?etts E... ...... . 28 

Royal Standard, No. 1 

" 8 28% 

'^ 5 27 

" 10.... 27 

"20.... 27% 

" 80. .. 27% 

•' 40.... 27 

"..45.... 27% 

" 45.... 27% 

"50.... 28 

" 90.... 35% 

" 100... 36 

TremontM 27% 

DL 28% 

D 28% 

H 28% 

P 28% 

T 28 

A 28% 

Y 29% 

Z 28% 

X 31 

XX 30% 

XXX 32% 

XXXX 36 

F 27 

U 26% 



Yard$ 

io 
Powid. 

1.44 
1.78 
1.96 
2.08 
2.15 
2.58 
2.84 
.91 
.10 
.37 
,56 
98 



4.36 
4.80 
7.10 

4.8g 
5.00 
4.84 

5.57 
2.90 
3 49 
2.57 
2.46 
3.43 
4.00 

■4! 86 
4.53 
3.99 
8.41 
3.34 
3.57 
2.83 
3 34 
2.72 
1.79 
1.45 
5.30 
5 00 
4.50 
4.00 
3.60 
3.25 
3.00 
2.80 
2.60 
2 50 
2.20 
2.00 
2.00 
5.00 
4.50 



Picks 

to 
Inch. 



84x48 



76x52 

76x48 



80x56 
76x52 
84x56 
84x64 
3SX48 
84x48 
84x48 
84x48 
84x48 
e4s44 
64x44 



201 



Brown Cotton Plannels— Continued. 



Name, Width. 

Inches. 

Tremont L 26% 

B 36>^ 

N 28 

283^ 

E 29 

Z 2S% 

W 29 

V 28K 

G 30% 

EX 31% 

R 31^ 

G— GG 36 

Saoo, ooiored plush 

Syracuse, ooiored plush ... 2^ 



Yards 
to 
Pound. 
4.00 
3.75 
3.40 
3.00 
2.75 
3.ft0 
2.85 
2 20 
2.00 
1.75 
1.60 
1.50 
2.7S 
8.54 



Pleht 

to 
Inch. 



28348 



52sde 

24s72 



► ■» ■< 



BLEACHED CASTTGIT FLANNELS. 



Nmme. Width. 

Inches. 

EUertonHHH 32 

WH 36 

H 

WN 32 

N 20 

28^ 

P 28 

Q 26 

E 

8 28X 

n * rri 

CL 27 

CM 25 

CN 24 

Good Luck "6' 26 

"14" 26 

Eoyal Sta^idard "50" 28 

"30" 

" "5" 



Yards 


Picks 


to 


to 


Pound. 


Inch. 


1.64 


* 


2.30 


.... 


i'.bk 






2 62 






2.83 






3.10 






3.10 






3.62 






4!67 






5.29 






5.49 




4.41 


88x48 


8.79 


80x48 


2.90% 


84x44 


8.48 


88x48 


5.57 


80 


x56 



*Picks cannot be taken owing to h^,vy nap. 



-»••♦••< 



OOTTONADES. 

Navne Width. 

Inches: 
New York Mills D and T. 37>^ 

Wachusett 33>^ 

York Mfg. Co. XXX 43 



Yards 
to 
Pound. 
2.40 
8 56 
3.75 



Picks 

to 
Inch. 
48x60 
48x72 
40x40 



202 

DENIMS. 

Yards 
Name Width. to 

Inches. Pouni. 

Amoskeag Mfg Co. brown 

D, 9oz... 27%@28 1.67 

'• " 27%@28 1.69 

" blue D... 27H®28 2.20 

" 9oz. 27%@28 2.24 

Oolumbian XXX brown .... 27^-^28 2 . 98 

'• heavy m'x'dfoy 27^@28 2.94 

" XXX blue fancy m'x'd 27^@28 2 . 98 

Everett blue, DD 28 2.45 

" imp'd brown, BD.. 28%@2B% 2.48 

28@28)^ 2.45 

" slate, SD 28 2.45 

" imp'd blue, DDN.. 28 2.45 

" faney stripes 28 2.45 

" " checks 28 2.45 

Oakland Mills A brown .... 263^ 3.78 

OtisDD 26% 3.25 

Palmer MiIIr, fa-, oy, 418. . . 27X@28 2 58 
Pearl Eiver BD bro\ra. ... 28 

Sioo River, slate, D 28 2.75 

blue, DD 28 2.75 

Shetuoket Co., blue 28 1 ' 84 

Uncasville 28 2.71 

Warren Cotton Mills, 941 . . 28 2 . 79 

Whittenton a A 27% 3.25 

York, blue, DD 28 2.45 

" brown, DDXX 28 2.45 

" slate, DDA 28 2.45 

" fancy stripes 25 2.45 

'* fancy plaids 28 2.46 

► ♦ ■< 

SHIETING OLOTH. 

Yards 

Name. Widih. to 

Inches. Pound. 

Brerett, Tiger Checks JP . . 29 2 . 75 

" Plaid JPC. 29 2.75 

Strip's JPS 29 2.75 



Picks 
to 

Inch. 



48x48 
40x48 
48x84 
40x72 



28x86 
28x86 



36x68 
36x64 
48x84 
28x44 



48x52 
40x44 
36x72 
28x40 



Pieks 

te 
Ineh. 



► ♦ ^ 



SATTEElfg. 

Name. Wtdtfi. 

Inches. 

Amory Silesia Jean 

Dale River Twills 

Naumkeag Twills 



Yeurds 

io 
Pound. 


Pi»hs 

to 
Ineh. 


4.26 
4.84 

2M% 


64xli2 



203 

Widths, Lengths, Eeeds, Picks and "Weights of British. 
Cottons. 
The accompanying table gives the width, yards, reed, 
pick and weight of British cotton piece goods, such as 
Madapollams, Shirtings, Jaconets, Mulls, T— cloths^ 
Mexicans, and Long Cloths: 
Inches. 
32 . .Madapollams 46 



Weight. 
Yds, Reed. Picks. Lbs. Ozs. 
12 10 6 



32. 


a 




46 


12 


12 


6 





32. 


. 




46 


14 


14 


7 





39. 


.Shirtings 




37* 


12 


8 


5 


4 


86 


(( 




37i 


1^ 


1^ 


6 





36. 


• ( 




37* 


13 


11 


7 





39. 


<( 




374 


14 


13 


7 





36. 


i( 




37* 


16 


13 


8 


8 


39. 


" (China 


quality). 


.37* 


16 


15 


8 


4 


39. 


" 




37* 


16 


15 


8 


4 


39. 


( ( 




37^ 


17 


18 


9 


12 


39. 


(1 




37* 


19 


19 


10 





45. 


(C 




37* 


13 


10 


7 





45. 


(( 




37* 


14 


12 


8 





45. 


(( 




37* 


16 


15 


9 





50. 


(( 




37* 


14 


13 


9 





50. 


<l 




37* 


16 


15 


10 





54. 


It 




37* 


16 


15 


11 





60. 


u 




• 37^ 


16 


15 


12 





39. 


.Jaconets 




20 


10 


6 


1 


14 


39. 


i< 




20 


10 


8 


2 


2 


8Q 


>< 




20 
20 


12 
14 


12 
12 


2 

2 





39. 


C( 




4 


39. 


(( 




20 


14 


14 


2 


8 


39. 


(< 




20 


16 


15 


2 


14 


45. 


(( 




20 


14 


12 


2 


8 


45. 


«• 




20 


14 


14 


2 


12 


45 


(( 




20 
20 


16 
16 


15 
15 


3 
3 


4 


50. 


(( 




10 


39. 


.Mulls 




20 


10 


8 




0* 


39. 


(< 




. 20 


10 


10 




2 


39. 


(( 




20 


12 


10 




Of 


39. 


(( 




20 


12 


12 




5 


39. 


(< 




20 


14 


12 




6-7 


39. 


t( 




20 


14 


14 




8 


39. 


< < 




20 


16 


14 




9-10 


39. 


(1 




20 


16 


16 




12 


44. 


( ( 




20 


16 


15 


2 





49. 


iC 




20 


16 


15 


2 


4 


54. 


(i 




20 


16 


15 


2 


8 


60. 


'• 




20 


16 


15 


2 


12 


30 


.T Cloths. 




24 
24 


12 
12 


12 
12 


4 
5 


8 


32 


(( 







32. 


i( 




24 


14 


14 


6 


10 


82. 


'* (Mexican) 


24 


18 


18 


7 


r 


36, 


,Long Cloths 




36 


12 


12 


8 





39. 


(( 




. 36 


12 


12 


9 





45 


<< 




36 


12 


12 


10 






204- 

Early Okronology of Kaw Cotton, Cotton Yarn, Cotton 
Goods, Etc. 

The following represents the chronology of Kaw Cotton from 
A. D. 800 to A. D. 1845; Cotton Yam from A. D. 1530 to A. D. 1837; 
Cotton Goods from A. D. 1252 to A. D. 1787; and Printing and Dye- 
ing Calico from A. D. 1631 to A. D. 1831: 

RAW COTTON. 

800 Cotton used in Greece as a material for making paper. 
1298 Cotton used in England for Candle Wick. 
1560 Cotton imported into England from the Levant. 
1S41 Cotton Wool imported into England exclusively from the 

Levant 
1688 450,000 lbs. of cotton wool imported into Marseilles from the 

Levant. 
1750 3,831,620 lbs. cotton wool imported into France. 
1778 Gold medal given by the Koyal Society of Arts of England to 

Mr. Andrew Bennett, of Tobago, for the best specimen of 

West India cotton 

1780 The finest grained and cleanest cotton brought to the 

English market waa from Berbice. The prices were per 
lb.: Berbice, 2s. Id.; Demerara, Is. Id.; Surinam, 2s.; 
Cayenne. 2s. 

1781 Brazilian cotton first imported into England from Maranham 

in a very dirty state. 

1782 A panic created in Manchester, England, in consequence of 

7012 bales of cotton being imported between December and 
April. 

1783 Brazilian cotton first brought to Manchester. 

1785 Premium offered by the Royal Society of Arts of England for 
the production of oil from cotton seed, and from the re- 
mainder of the seed hard cake for cattle. 

1785 A small quantity of seed sent from the Bahamas is the parent 
of all the Sea Island cotton of Georgia and South Carolina. 

1785 Cotton imported into England from America this year: 1 bag 

per Diana, from Charleston; 1 'per Tonyn, from New York; 
3 per Grange, from Philadelphia; 9 per Friendship, from 
Philadelphia. Part of these cottons were seized in Liver- 
pool by the Custom House otficers, under the impression 
that cotton was not the product of the United States. 

1786 6 bags of American cotton imported into England: 2 per 

Thomas, from Charleston, and 4 per Juno, from Charleston. 

1786 A small quantity of cotton of the best quality then known 

was received in England from the Island of Bourbon, and 
was sold at from 7s. 6d. to 10s. per lb. 

1787 103 bales of cotton imported into England from America. 

Until this year the supply of cotton was principally from 
the West Indies. 

1793 Whitney's Saw-gin invented for cleaning cotton. 

1798 Premium of a gold medal offered by the Eoyal Society of 
Arts of England to any person who should import into the 
port of London during the year 1799 one ton of Bhangul- 
pore cotton, of which cloths were made in imitation of 
nankeen without dyeing. 

1823 Long-stapled cotton of excellent quality first imported into 
England from Egypt. 

1833 Duty on cotton, the' product of, and imported from, any Brit- 
ish possession, 4d. per cwt., and of any foreign countrv, 
2s lid. 

1844 February 3d, this week 109,000 bales of cotton were sold in 

Liverpool, England. 

1845 British duty on cotton wool repealed, 22d March. 

COTTON TAEN. 

1530 Spinning wheel invented at Brunswick, Germany, by Jurgeu. 
1641 Cotton yarn imported into England from the Levant. 
1650 Indian yarn was spun as fine as 29 yards to 1 grain. 
1688 1,450,000 lbs. of yarn imported into France from the Levant. 
1738 Machine for spinning with rollers invented in England by 
John Whyatt, patent taken out by Lewis Paul, a foreigner. 



205 

1748 Lewis Paul's second patent taken out in England. 

1750 3,381,625 lbs. of yarn imported into France from the Levant. 

1753 A cotton reel invented in England by Mr. Earnsliaw. 

1757 Duty of id. per lb. on cotton yarn imported into England 

from India. 
1760 Premium offered by the Royal Society of Arts of England for 

the best invention of a machine for spinning 6 threads of 

wool, cotton, flax or silk at one time, and that would only 

require one person to work and attend it. 

1763 First spinning jenny made in England by Highs. 

1764 Hargreavea invented a machine in England to spin 11 threads 

at once. 
1767 Spinning by machinery first used in England (the water 
frame ^ 

1769 Water frame for spinning patented in England by Arkwright. 

1770 Spinning jenny patented in England by J. Hargreaves. 

1770 Lewis Paul takes out a patent in England for carding. 

1771 Messrs. Arkwright's mill built at Cromford, England. 

1772 The feeder invented in England by J. Lees. 

1773 J. Hargreaves, England, applied a crank, or comb, to take 

wool off the cards in a continuous fleece. 

1775 Mule spinning invented in England by S. Crompton. 

1776 Mr. Arkwright took out another patent in England for card- 

ing, drawing and roving. 

1776 First cotton mill erected in Staleybridge, England. 

1777 First " " Preston, England. 

1783 Premium given by the Koyal Society of Arts of England for 
improving several machines used in manufacturing, viz.: 
comb pots, cards for wool and cotton, doubling and spin- 
ning wheels, etc. 

1783 Arkwright's machinery for spinning and carding cotton by 

steam first used in Manchester, England. 

1784 First machine imported into France ^from England) for spin- 

ning cotton by M. Mortin, Amiens. 
1784 Machinery for spinning thrown open to the trade in 

England. 
1784 A German fined £500 in England for seducing operatives to 

Germany. 
1784 Improved method of carding in England by Arkwright. 

1786 A person fined £200 in England for having a quantity of ma- 

chinery, with a view to export it to Germany. 

1787 Forty-one spinning factories in the county Of Lancaster, 

England. 

1788 Model of a machine for spinning cotton, etc., presented to 

the Royal Society of Arts of England by Mr. John Barton. 

1788 A gold medal, value £20, was awarded by the Royal Society of 

Arts of England for the invention of a machine for carding 
waste silk, cotton, etc. 

1789 A mule jenny constructed at Amiens, France, with 280 

spindles. 

1791 First cotton mill erected in the United States. 

1792 A self-acting mule invented by Mr. Kelly, of Lanark Mills, 

England. 

1793 First attempt to spin yarn from lOO's and upwards by power 

in England. 
1799 First spinning mule erected in Saxony, Germany. 
1802 Subscription of £500 raised in England for Mr." S. Crompton 

by Mr John Kennedy and others. 

1805 Premium given by the Royal Society of Arts of England to 

Mr. John Beard for a machine for cutting and crooking 
wires for cards used in cotton and wool. 

1806 Cotton manufacturing considered completely established in 

France. 

1812 Number of spindles at work in Great Britain between 4,000,000 
and 5,000,000. 

1812 Mr. S. Crompton, inventor of the mule, rewarded by the 
English Government with £5,000. 

1812 English Parliament granted Mr. Wright £5,000 for the inven- 
tion of his double mule. 

1815 8 lb. of cotton twist sent out to India on trial. 

1816 Yarn trade opened with the continent. 



206 

1817 Fly frame introduced from America, patented by Mr. J. C. 
Dyer in 1825 to 1829. 

1821 First notable exportation of cotton twist from England to 
India. 

1825 104 factories in the neighborhood of Manchester, England. 

1825 40 '• " Preston, 

1825 47 " " Stockport, 

1825 22 " " Staley bridge, 

1825 Mr. Dyer's first patent for cards in England. 

1825 Mr. Roberts takes out a patent for a machine for mule spin- 
ning in England, 

1825 Tube frame patented in England by Mr. J. C. Dyer. 

1827 De Jough's self-acting mu]e invented. 

1829 Average price of yarn sent from England to India, ls.3?id. 

1832 Capital supposed sunk in cotton mills in England, £10,600,000 

1834 Average price of yarn sent from England to India, Is. 5Xd. 

1836 113 cotton spinning mills in Saxony, Germany. 

1837 152 cotton spinning mills in Prussia, Germany. 

COTTON GOODS. 

1252 Cotton goods made in Persia. 

1253 Linen first made in England by Flemish weavers. 

1328 A quantity of Flemish emigrants came to England, a few set- 
tled in Manchester, and made a species of woolen goods 
called "Manchester cottons." 

1330 Manufactures of Flanders introduced into Manchester, 
England. 

1352 Manchester cottons made in England from the fleece in an 
unprepared state. (These were woolens.) 

1368 Cotton manufactured in China. 

1390 Cloth first made at Kendal, England (woolen). 

1430 Fustians first made in Flanders with a linen warp and cotton 
weft. 

1497 First manufacture of cotton goods in Europe was attempted 
in Spain or Italy. 

1516 The Caffres in Southern Africa wore cotton dresses. 

1582 An English mercantile commission sent to Constantinople 
and other parts of Turkey to learn any secrets in the arts of 
manufacturing, dyeing, &c. 

1590 Cotton cloth brought to London from Benin, on the coast of 
Guinea. 
. 1634 Linen trade began in Ireland. 

1641 At this period in England all warps were made with linen, 
and wove with cotton imported from Cyprus and Smyrna. 

1790 Messrs. Grimshaw, of Gorton, England, erected a factory in 
Manchester for power looms, under a license from Dr.. 
Cartwright, but the factory was burned down before they 
commenced work. 

1794 A power loom invented by Mr. Bell, of Glasgow, Scotland, 
but it did not succeed. 

1796 Another power loom j)atented by Mr. Robert Miller, of Glas- 
gow, Scotland. 

1801 First application of Dr. Cartwright's power loom. 

1801 Power loom adopted in Glasgow, Scotland, by Mr. John 

Monteith. 

1802 A dressing machine invented by Messrs. EatcUffe and Ross, 

of Stockport, England. 

1803 A patent for a power loom taken out by Mr. Horrocks, of 

Stockport, England. 

1806 A patent for a power loom with a double crank taken out by 
Mr. P. Marsland, of Stockport, England. 

1806 Power looms began to be used to advantage in England. 

1806 Machine for dressing warps invented in England by Mr. 
Johnson. 

1809 British Parliament granted Dr. Cartwright £10,000 for his 
invention of the power loom in 1787. 

1817 Persons employed in the cotton trade of Great Britain esti- 
mated by Mr! Kennedy at 110,763. 

1825 Roberts' British patent for mule spinning. 

1825 Persons employed in the cotton trade in Great Britain esti- 
mated by Mr.' Greg at 160,000. 

1825 22,150 cotton looms in Prussia. 



207 

1832 The quantity of flour used in the manufacturing of cotton 
goods in Great Eritain this year was 215,824 barrels of 196 
lbs., or 176,256 loads of 240 lbs. each; average of each loom 
being 4 lbs per week. 

1841 Number of persons emi^loyed in cotton manufactures in Eng- 
land 281,000. 

1846 Niimber of persons employed in cotton manufactures in Eng- 
land 316,000. 

1641 Fustians and dimities first introduced into England. 

1645 Fustians imported into England from the continent of Europe 
at a duty of 3d. per piece. 

1650 Very fine calicoes and muslins made in India, at Calicut, 
which wei-e whitened with lemon water. 

1670 Muslins first worn in England. 

1676 Introduction of the Dutch loom engine in England. 

1677 Value of East India calicoes consumed in England £160,000. 
1698 First steam engine constructed in England and successfully 

turned to useful purposes by Savery. 
1701 Value of cotton goods exported from England £23,000. 

1738 Fly shuttle invented in England by J. Kay. 

1739 The manufacture of cotton goods in England, mixed and 

plain, was supposed to have arrived at great perfection. 

1756 Cotton velvets first made in England. 

1760 Value of cotton manufactures in Great Britain, £200,000 per 
annum. 

1760 Warping mill invented in England. 

1760 Drop shuttle box invented in England by R. Kay. 

1760 Previous to this year the machines used in cotton manufac- 
ture were nearly as simple in England as in India. 

1763 Muslins and cotton quiltings first made in England. 

1765 Calicoes (so called from their resemblance to Indian manu- 
factures brought from the province of Calicut) first at- 
tempted in England. 

1765 Cotton velvets first made in Amiens, France. 

1766 British duty on foreign cambrics and lawns per piece of three 

ells, 3s. (Ell= 45 inches.) 

1766 Value of cotton goods made in England, £600.000 per annum. 

1770 Manufacture of ginghams greatly improved in England by 
Mr. Meadowcroft. 

1772 Messrs. Arkwright & Co. successfully attempted the manu- 
facture of calicoes in England. 

1772 First English cotton goods made with cotton warps by Messrs. 
Strutt, of Derby. 

1774 Fabrics made entirely of cotton were declared by Act of 
British Parliament to have been lately introduced. 

1776 Two pieces of calicoes sold in England to Messrs. Peel, Yates 
& Co. for £5, 9s. 8d. 

1780 Muslin trade began to flourish in England. 

1783 Act reducing the duty on foreign muslins, calicoes and nan- 

keen cloths to 18 per cent, ad valorem, with 10 per cent, 
drawback on exportation, passed by British Parliament, 

1784 Fustian tax imposed in England. 

1785 First attempt at the power loom in England by Dr. Cartwright. 
1785 Population employed in the cotton trade of England estimated 

by Mr. Pitt at 80,000. 

1785 First steam engine for cotton mills in England made by Watt. 

1785 Eepeal of the fustian tax, celebrated in Manchester, England, 
by a grand procession. 

1787 Power loom invented in England by Dr. Cartwright. 

1787 An immense ciuautity of muslins and calicoes imported into 
England from India. Memorial to British Board of Trade, 
praying that restrictions might be placed on the East India 
Comijany's sales, answered, that " the greater part of them 
had been exported." 

PRINTING AND DYEING CALICO. 

1631 Painted (printed) calicoes imported into England from India. 

1675 Calico printing first inti'oduced into England. 

1676 Calico printing commenced in London, in England. 

1678 A loud cry raised against the admission of Indian calicoes, 

muslins and chintzes into England, as it was stated they 
were ruining the British woolen trade. 



208 

1690 A small priut works established on the Thames, at Richmond, 
England. 

1700 Act passed forbidding the importation into England of Indian 
silks and printed calicoes, under a penalty of £200 on buj-er 
and seller. 

1712 Duty of 3d. per yard first imposed on printed and dyed cali- 
coes in England. (These were of foreign manufacture.) 

1714 Duty on printed calicoes raised in Eugland to 6d. per yard. 

1720 Act prohibiting the use or wear of printed calicoes in Eug- 
land, whether printed in England or elsewhere, under a 
penalty of £5 wearer, and £20 seller. 

1736 So much of the act of 1720 repealed in England as forbade 
the wear or use of mixed printed g09ds, that is, goods not 
all cotton. 

17^3 Bleaching generally introduced in England. 

1764 Calico printing first practiced in Lancashire, England. 

1765 English printed calicoes exported to Holland. 

1774 Duty of 3d. per square yard imposed in England on printed 
cottons of British manufacture. 

1774 Penalties for exporting tools or utensils used in manufactur- 
ing from England, of £200 on shipper, and £200 on com- 
mander of any vessel. 

1774 Chlorine, or oxymuriatic acid, discovered by Scheele. 

1777 Green dyes for calicoes introduced into England by Dr. R. 
"Williams. 

1782 Act prohibiting the exportation of engraved copper plates and 

blocks, or enticing any workmen emploj'ed in printing 
calicoes in England to go beyond the sea, £500, and twelve 
months imprisonment. 

1783 Act giving bounties on the export of British printed and dyed 

cottons, viz.: 

Under the value of 5d. per yard before printing, >^d. 
per yard. 

Over the value of 5d. and under 6d. before printing. Id. 
t)er yard. 

Over the value of 6d. and under 8d. before printing, 13^d. 
per yard, besides the drawack of excise duty. This act was 
repealed shortly afterwards. 

1784 Bleachers, printers and dyers compelled to take out licenses 

in England under an annual tax of £2, by Mr. Pitt. 

1784 A tax of Id. per yard imposed in England upon all bleached 

cottons. (Repealed May 17th, 1785.) 

1785 Cylindrical printing invented in England by Mr. Bell, and 

greatly improved by Mr. Lockett, of Manchester. 

1785 Acid for bleaching introduced by Bartholet, of France, 

1786 Bleaching with acid introduced in the bleach works of Mr. 

McGregor, near Glasgow, Scotland, by James Watt. 

1787 First copyright for printers in Eugland. 

1787 Excise duty of 3}.^d. per square yard on printed calicoes im- 

posed in Great Britain, and the same allowed as drawback 
on exportation, and foreign calicoes charged with a duty of 
7d, per yard when printed or dyed in Great Britain. 
(May 10th.) 

1788 Acid first used for bleaching in Manchester, England. 

1791 Improved method of bleaching cotton goods in England with 

acids in five hours, 
1798 Chloride of lime for bleaching patented by Mr. Tennant, of 

Glasgow, Scotland. 

1801 Discharge work in printing successfully adapted in England 

by Messrs. Peel. 

1802 New method of block cutting, introducing brass and pin work , 

in Eugland. 

1805 Engraved wooden rollers used, invented in England by Mr. 
Barton, engraver to Messrs. Peel. 

1808 New method of engraving with dies introduced in England by 
Mr. Lockett. 

1810 Turkey red first introduced in calico printing in England by 
M Koechlin. 

1813 Discharging Turkey red with acid in calico printing in Eng- 
land, patented by James Thompson, Esq., F. R. S. 

1831 Duty on printed calicoes repealed by Great Britain March 1st. 



